I went to WWS last month and really learned few things. One was with a
router table, put a rubber piece inside the collet so that I can switch
back and forth with (CMT) router bits and it will remain same height
(for cabinetmaking). So I went to ACE and bought some faucet pieces.
Drop one in the collet, still too deep. Anyone know about this? Before I
call PC, does anyone have a solution for this? a deep rubber piece? What?
One thing I am thinking is that since PC has been around for long time,
shouldn't they, by now, see a "need" for a collet lock (and a better
offset wench)? I got PC 7518.
Chuck
So, you suggesting that I do not use the rubber in the collet and use
the plastic template every time I switch the stile and rail router bits?
I just thought it was neat to switch the bits and keep the
router in it's "set" place. I find myself often noticing the depth has
changed from door to door, even project to project.
Chuck
CW wrote:
> You will be disappointed.
I just doubt that you could achieve any better than about .010 repeatability
in settings. This may well be good enough for what you are doing but I can
think of circumstances were it wouldn't be.
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So, you suggesting that I do not use the rubber in the collet and use
> the plastic template every time I switch the stile and rail router bits?
> I just thought it was neat to switch the bits and keep the
> router in it's "set" place. I find myself often noticing the depth has
> changed from door to door, even project to project.
>
> Chuck
>
> CW wrote:
> > You will be disappointed.
I have an 8529. It has a shaft lock and comes with an offset wrench. I've
heard this bit about the rubber piece before. You will be disappointed. The
PC collets are a rather snug fit. The force needed to push it into the
cullet will compress the rubber. No way to tell how much but will be
different each time you change bits. Best you can hope for is close. If you
put something solid like a piece of steel under it, the collet will never
close right and you run the risk of the bit coming loose though the bit will
go in at the same height every time. Now that I think about it, a block of
about 90 durometer urethane would probably work. Height variations would
probably be no more than about .005.
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I went to WWS last month and really learned few things. One was with a
> router table, put a rubber piece inside the collet so that I can switch
> back and forth with (CMT) router bits and it will remain same height
> (for cabinetmaking). So I went to ACE and bought some faucet pieces.
> Drop one in the collet, still too deep. Anyone know about this? Before I
> call PC, does anyone have a solution for this? a deep rubber piece? What?
>
> One thing I am thinking is that since PC has been around for long time,
> shouldn't they, by now, see a "need" for a collet lock (and a better
> offset wench)? I got PC 7518.
>
> Chuck
I have the same router in my table. I just cut a 7/8 inch piece of half
inch dowel and placed it in the collet and placed the rubber piece on top of
it. Now the 2 bits match up perfectly. I don't use the dowel and rubber
piece with other router bits, just the CMT offset tongue and groove bits.
Bob Heveri
"CNT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I went to WWS last month and really learned few things. One was with a
>router table, put a rubber piece inside the collet so that I can switch
>back and forth with (CMT) router bits and it will remain same height (for
>cabinetmaking). So I went to ACE and bought some faucet pieces. Drop one in
>the collet, still too deep. Anyone know about this? Before I call PC, does
>anyone have a solution for this? a deep rubber piece? What?
>
> One thing I am thinking is that since PC has been around for long time,
> shouldn't they, by now, see a "need" for a collet lock (and a better
> offset wench)? I got PC 7518.
>
> Chuck