Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation where
they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned relatively
quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't done
a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for in a
jointer, etc... be creative!
Thanks guys :)
Yup, that pretty well covers it.
Note; If I have to use a twisted board, a thing I avoid at all costs but
sometimes it happens, and can't cut them to a shorter length to cut down on
the twist I find that doing a little work with a hand plane before taking
the piece to the jointer makes the job much easier.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> hm, well, what do you do if your stock is wider than your jointer? just
> rip the rough stock down first?
>
In article <[email protected]>,
tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>hm, well, what do you do if your stock is wider than your jointer? just
>rip the rough stock down first?
>
Nope. I remove the "ledge" with a handplane after each pass over the
jointer. I'll only rip and reglue if I have some reason to believe the
board will be unstable otherwise.
--
Scott Post [email protected] http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost/
In article <[email protected]>,
Chris <[email protected]> wrote:
>tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation where
>> they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
>> little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned relatively
>> quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't done
>> a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
>> jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
>> fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
>> experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for in a
>> jointer, etc... be creative!
>>
>> Thanks guys :)
>
>The obvious - preparing stock (in conjunction with a planer).
>
>Other uses: Rabbeting, tapered legs
>
>There is a book by Cristoforo that lists uses you would never think
>of, including jigs, etc.
>
>-Chris
Speaking of jointers, has anybody tried making extension tables? I've
got the typical 6" Jet with a 48-or-so inch long table. I often have
to joint longer boards and it's a pain in the neck (not to mention
rather inaccurate) trying to cantilever them off the ends of the
tables. I'm thinking of two possible plans to fix this.
One is just extension tables, about 18-24 inches long, built of 3/4
birch ply bolted to the side flanges of the existing table castings.
The more adventurous plan is to build the jointer right into a table
top. I'm thinking a long bench along one wall of my shop, 18-24
inches wide, with a miter saw, router table, 12" planer, and jointer
all built right into the surface. Dust collection and power along the
back wall. Seems it would give me a really long working surface for
all four machines in the least amount of floor space. I can see a
couple of minor problems:
1) In theory, I need to adjust the height of the table to track the
jointer tables. On the other hand, I rarely adjust the infeed
table, and havn't touched the outfeed since I set the machine up
the first time, so maybe it's just not an issue.
2) Making all the machines have a common table height will either make
the miter saw uncomfortably low, or the jointer uncomfortably high.
Anybody ever done anything like this? How did it work out?
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:51:08 +0000, tmbg wrote:
> hm, well, what do you do if your stock is wider than your jointer? just
> rip the rough stock down first?
A tip given in one of the WW magazines goes as follows:
1) Rabbet the board as wide as possible - about 6" on a six inch jointer.
2) place the rabbeted surface on a piece of 1/4" ply (sled) and run
through your thickness planer.
3) flip the board over and run through the thickness planer to flatten the
rabbetted side.
This should work for boards up to 8" or 9" wide on a 6" jointer.
-Doug
tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation where
> they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
> little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned relatively
> quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't done
> a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
> jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
> fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
> experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for in a
> jointer, etc... be creative!
>
> Thanks guys :)
The obvious - preparing stock (in conjunction with a planer).
Other uses: Rabbeting, tapered legs
There is a book by Cristoforo that lists uses you would never think
of, including jigs, etc.
-Chris
Repost of stock answer to biweekly question
****************************************************************************
**************************
Steps for truing stock.
Absolutely necessary. A flat face to work from.
Joint (make flat and straight) one face (reference face) so you have
something to true (reference) the remaining three sides to. Not to be done
on a planer because the feed rollers will push out any warp and it will
reappear as the stock exits the planer. For the same reason use very little
down force when jointing.
Joint one edge with the reference face against the jointers fence. This will
give you a straight edge that is at 90 degrees to the reference face. Also
an edge to reference the next edge.,
Rip a second edge on the table saw with the reference face against the table
and the reference edge against the fence. Try to do it on the jointer and it
will give you a straight edge but not one necessarily parallel to the first
edge.
Now you can plane the piece to a proper thickness with the reference face
flat down on the planers feed table. Since the reference face is flat the
planer has no warp to press out so the face being planed will be not only be
flat but parallel to the reference face.
The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are work
arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform the
functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of a
planer.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation where
> they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
> little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned relatively
> quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't done
> a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
> jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
> fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
> experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for in a
> jointer, etc... be creative!
>
> Thanks guys :)
On 29 Dec 2003 07:27:00 -0800, [email protected] (Chris)
wrote:
>There is a book by Cristoforo that lists uses you would never think
>of, including jigs, etc.
>
>-Chris
Hi Chris,
I was intrigued, but could not find such on Amazon.
Might you know a title...?
Thanks,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:53:44 GMT, tmbg <[email protected]> wrote:
>Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation where
>they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
>little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned relatively
>quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't done
>a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
>jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
>fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
>experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for in a
>jointer, etc... be creative!
>
>Thanks guys :)
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0806967552/103-5997910-6893431?v=glance>
<http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=how+to+use+a+jointer&sa=N&tab=wg>
The jointer is not difficult, but there are some basics that will make
it easy and keep you safe.
Barry
I use adjustable rollers and they work just fine and take up very little
space.
"Roy Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Chris <[email protected]> wrote:
> >tmbg <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> >> Pretend for a moment that someone was just dropped into a situation
where
> >> they had nearly everything you could ever hope for available, and very
> >> little clue how to use most of it. Now assume they've learned
relatively
> >> quickly, and are turning out some pretty nice work, but still haven't
done
> >> a whole lot with ye olde jointer. What would you tell them about the
> >> jointer as a rough introduction, designed to pique the interest in this
> >> fine machine, and encourage this eager newcomer to absorb knowledge and
> >> experiment? What sort of uses are there, what are things to look for
in a
> >> jointer, etc... be creative!
> >>
> >> Thanks guys :)
> >
> >The obvious - preparing stock (in conjunction with a planer).
> >
> >Other uses: Rabbeting, tapered legs
> >
> >There is a book by Cristoforo that lists uses you would never think
> >of, including jigs, etc.
> >
> >-Chris
>
> Speaking of jointers, has anybody tried making extension tables? I've
> got the typical 6" Jet with a 48-or-so inch long table. I often have
> to joint longer boards and it's a pain in the neck (not to mention
> rather inaccurate) trying to cantilever them off the ends of the
> tables. I'm thinking of two possible plans to fix this.
>
> One is just extension tables, about 18-24 inches long, built of 3/4
> birch ply bolted to the side flanges of the existing table castings.
>
> The more adventurous plan is to build the jointer right into a table
> top. I'm thinking a long bench along one wall of my shop, 18-24
> inches wide, with a miter saw, router table, 12" planer, and jointer
> all built right into the surface. Dust collection and power along the
> back wall. Seems it would give me a really long working surface for
> all four machines in the least amount of floor space. I can see a
> couple of minor problems:
>
> 1) In theory, I need to adjust the height of the table to track the
> jointer tables. On the other hand, I rarely adjust the infeed
> table, and havn't touched the outfeed since I set the machine up
> the first time, so maybe it's just not an issue.
>
> 2) Making all the machines have a common table height will either make
> the miter saw uncomfortably low, or the jointer uncomfortably high.
>
> Anybody ever done anything like this? How did it work out?
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 11:26:17 -0500, Mike G wrote:
> Repost of stock answer to biweekly question
> ****************************************************************************
> **************************
> Steps for truing stock.
>
> Absolutely necessary. A flat face to work from.
>
> Joint (make flat and straight) one face (reference face) so you have
> something to true (reference) the remaining three sides to. Not to be done
> on a planer because the feed rollers will push out any warp and it will
> reappear as the stock exits the planer. For the same reason use very little
> down force when jointing.
>
> Joint one edge with the reference face against the jointers fence. This will
> give you a straight edge that is at 90 degrees to the reference face. Also
> an edge to reference the next edge.,
>
> Rip a second edge on the table saw with the reference face against the table
> and the reference edge against the fence. Try to do it on the jointer and it
> will give you a straight edge but not one necessarily parallel to the first
> edge.
>
> Now you can plane the piece to a proper thickness with the reference face
> flat down on the planers feed table. Since the reference face is flat the
> planer has no warp to press out so the face being planed will be not only be
> flat but parallel to the reference face.
>
> The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
> reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are work
> arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform the
> functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of a
> planer.
hm, well, what do you do if your stock is wider than your jointer? just
rip the rough stock down first?
We have an odd jointer, I can't find a name anywhere on it, but the table
is 8" wide by 36" long... seems uncomfortably short compared to some of
the ones I've seen and heard about... seems like very little of the big
iron in the shop has brand names on it, wonder why that is :P Anyway, I
have some short cherry boards that I was gonna use for aprons for an end
table, but they have some wicked twist to them, so I milled up another
piece I found for them, maybe I'll mess around with the jointer by trying
to take the twist out of the boards :) (Yes I have a planer as well...
like I said, I now have all the stuff that'd make some of the guys here
cry, but I'm less than expert with it all)
The jointer is an essential tool for furniture making. And, yes, if your
stock is too wide, you rip, joint, and then edge join it back together.
Jointed edges glue up without joinery (long grain to long grain).
36" is indeed short but you should still be able to joint a 6' board.
Beyond that, look into extending the beds.
Brian.
"tmbg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 11:26:17 -0500, Mike G wrote:
>
> > Repost of stock answer to biweekly question
> >
****************************************************************************
> > **************************
> > Steps for truing stock.
> >
> > Absolutely necessary. A flat face to work from.
> >
> > Joint (make flat and straight) one face (reference face) so you have
> > something to true (reference) the remaining three sides to. Not to be
done
> > on a planer because the feed rollers will push out any warp and it will
> > reappear as the stock exits the planer. For the same reason use very
little
> > down force when jointing.
> >
> > Joint one edge with the reference face against the jointers fence. This
will
> > give you a straight edge that is at 90 degrees to the reference face.
Also
> > an edge to reference the next edge.,
> >
> > Rip a second edge on the table saw with the reference face against the
table
> > and the reference edge against the fence. Try to do it on the jointer
and it
> > will give you a straight edge but not one necessarily parallel to the
first
> > edge.
> >
> > Now you can plane the piece to a proper thickness with the reference
face
> > flat down on the planers feed table. Since the reference face is flat
the
> > planer has no warp to press out so the face being planed will be not
only be
> > flat but parallel to the reference face.
> >
> > The jointer performs the two most critical steps in the process (the
> > reference face and edge) but, with sufficient dicking around, there are
work
> > arounds. but, without the dicking around, the planer will not perform
the
> > functions of a jointer and the jointer will not perform the functions of
a
> > planer.
>
> hm, well, what do you do if your stock is wider than your jointer? just
> rip the rough stock down first?
>
> We have an odd jointer, I can't find a name anywhere on it, but the table
> is 8" wide by 36" long... seems uncomfortably short compared to some of
> the ones I've seen and heard about... seems like very little of the big
> iron in the shop has brand names on it, wonder why that is :P Anyway, I
> have some short cherry boards that I was gonna use for aprons for an end
> table, but they have some wicked twist to them, so I milled up another
> piece I found for them, maybe I'll mess around with the jointer by trying
> to take the twist out of the boards :) (Yes I have a planer as well...
> like I said, I now have all the stuff that'd make some of the guys here
> cry, but I'm less than expert with it all)