Stair Rails

On Sun, 05 Mar 2006 09:53:21 GMT, Pubic <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hello to all.
>
>I've not worked with wood before and am completely ignorant about
>selection and finishing thereof.

It's a slippery slope. Don't blame us if you end up liking it. <G>

>I have a thirty year old townhouse and need to replace the stair railing
>- on a tight budget. Home Depot sales two kinds - don't like either
>style, but - one is hickory and the other is oak. The finished color
>needs to match, as closely as possible, adjacen wood - which is very
>dark.

Let's stop right here.

Why does it have to "match"? Wood is a natural product, so it's
extremely difficult, or at the least, very time consuming to get a
perfect match, even for an experienced pro. Over time, the wood will
change color, so there goes the hard worked match.

Woods that are similar in color and textures usually look good
together. If the other trim is oak (open, strong grained), use the
oak rail. If the existing trim has a tight, smooth, quieter grain,
use the other. Need help comparing? Compare oak and "whitewood"
moldings at Home Depot to see what I mean. You're looking at the
grain only, not the color of the raw moldings.


>Question:
>
>How should I go about finishing the rails? Is it just a matter of
>sanding, preconditioning, a couple of coats of stain and then a
>protective clear covering? Will the color of the stain fairly closely
>match the color on the can - or does the type of wook affect how close
>of a match I will get?

Remember, staining is optional, not a required step. That railing
will probably look better, for much longer, if you simply clear coat
it. Hand sand the railing (and samples) to 150 grit before staining.
Attention to detail here will pay off big later.

If you do decide to stain, buy a short piece of the same railing, cut
it in shorter pieces (for multiple tests) and test finish it. On oak
you do not need or want any sort of conditioner, on the whitewood, you
may. Conditioners work by sealing the wood, so the stain will come
out lighter than the store sample. Remember, the clear coat will
slightly modify and deepen the color, so make sure to clear coat the
sample(s) as well, before deciding on a color.

Once you get to the clear coats (I like oil based polyurethane for
this stuff. For your ease, apply with disposable foam brushes, say a
2"), use the following steps:

- Remove all dust with a tack rag (ask at the paint store for on
compatible with your finish). Now, do it again. <G>
- Apply a thin, even coat of finish. DO NOT try to put a thick,
plastic coat on at one shot! Allow to dry at least overnight
- _Lightly_ hand sand with 320 grit to remove any dust nibs
- remove all sanding dust
- Apply another coat
- _lightly_ sand with 400 grit
- DUST!
- apply the final coat

The sanding is important. You hand will run up and down the railing,
so the smoother the better. If you stain, be very careful sanding
after the stain, as you risk sanding into the stain.

Do ALL of the steps on the samples, taking notes of what you've done.
It's practice and a learning experience for you, and you'll have the
exact picture of what your final railing will look like before you
attack an expensive piece of material.

Try the samples and come back with questions.

You might be out of luck with the cabinetry, as far as DIY goes, as
the white marks are often water damaged lacquer.

Barry