I am hoping someone can help me out with some idea's on how to ease the
transition from my 9/16th engineered wood flooring ( total height is around
11/16" due to foam underlayment and 6 mil poly vinyl) to tile which is
about 3/8" thick. I purchased some T-Molding (same type of wood as the
flooring), but because of the size difference between the two surfaces the
t-molding rocks between the two surfaces and no matter how you position it -
it looks just plain terrible because it does not fit due to the height
offsets.
The floor is being installed as floating so having the proper expansion gap
between the two surfaces is also important. I would love to use the
t-modling as it was fairly expensive and can't be returned since it was
special order. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated on how to solve this
problem.
Worst case scenario I may have to scap the t-modling and buy one of those
metal transistion peices as that would work in this case.
Amy
Amy L. wrote:
> I am hoping someone can help me out with some idea's on how to ease the
> transition from my 9/16th engineered wood flooring ( total height is around
> 11/16" due to foam underlayment and 6 mil poly vinyl) to tile which is
> about 3/8" thick. I purchased some T-Molding (same type of wood as the
> flooring), but because of the size difference between the two surfaces the
> t-molding rocks between the two surfaces and no matter how you position it -
> it looks just plain terrible because it does not fit due to the height
> offsets.
>
> The floor is being installed as floating so having the proper expansion gap
> between the two surfaces is also important. I would love to use the
> t-modling as it was fairly expensive and can't be returned since it was
> special order. Any idea's would be greatly appreciated on how to solve this
> problem.
>
> Worst case scenario I may have to scap the t-modling and buy one of those
> metal transistion peices as that would work in this case.
>
> Amy
>
>
You can see if there is a "reducer" or threshold trim available. See
the following link for ideas.
http://www.shawfloors.com/FloorChoices/Hardwoods/HardwoodCoordinatedMoldings.asp
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
"LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Your best bet (and one I'm going to have to employ myself, albeit for
> different reasons) might be to either mill a transition strip from raw
> lumber, or buy one of the unfinished ones from the borg and modify it.
>
> Basically, you're looking at a dado on either side of a central rib,
> with one dado being higher than the other, then a sloping top. One
> slope will be to nearly a point (rests on the wood flooring) and the
> other side will have a bit of a slope (perhaps equal to the other
> side), then a vertical drop.
Taking your scenario a step further, you can also buy matching (and
expensive) trim to the floor and modify that also. I had to do that in a
couple of places in my house when I put the flooring down.
________
/________ \ can become
___________
|_________\ I just glued it in place instead of having a center
vertical strip.
Amy L. wrote:
> I am hoping someone can help me out with some idea's on how to ease the
> transition from my 9/16th engineered wood flooring ( total height is around
> 11/16" due to foam underlayment and 6 mil poly vinyl) to tile which is
> about 3/8" thick. I purchased some T-Molding (same type of wood as the
> flooring), but because of the size difference between the two surfaces the
> t-molding rocks between the two surfaces and no matter how you position it -
> it looks just plain terrible because it does not fit due to the height
> offsets.
Any chance you could route an eighth inch off one side of the molding so
that it doesn't rock?
> Fred
On Sat, 8 Oct 2005 21:34:08 -0400, "Amy L." <[email protected]> wrote:
>I purchased some T-Molding (same type of wood as the flooring), but because
>of the size difference between the two surfaces the t-molding rocks between
>the two surfaces and no matter how you position it - it looks just plain terrible
>because it does not fit due to the height offsets.
>I would love to use the t-modling as it was fairly expensive and can't be
>returned since it was special order. Any idea's would be greatly
>appreciated on how to solve this problem.
>
>Worst case scenario I may have to scap the t-modling and buy one of those
>metal transistion peices as that would work in this case.
Your best bet (and one I'm going to have to employ myself, albeit for
different reasons) might be to either mill a transition strip from raw
lumber, or buy one of the unfinished ones from the borg and modify it.
Basically, you're looking at a dado on either side of a central rib,
with one dado being higher than the other, then a sloping top. One
slope will be to nearly a point (rests on the wood flooring) and the
other side will have a bit of a slope (perhaps equal to the other
side), then a vertical drop. It's not necessary to have it feather out
to nothing--there are lot's of places where a seemingly significant
transition is done. Think marble threshold, or any threshold, for that
matter.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
This may just work - however what is the odds that the T-Modling is the same
color all the way through (brazilian cherry)?
Amy
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Your best bet (and one I'm going to have to employ myself, albeit for
>> different reasons) might be to either mill a transition strip from raw
>> lumber, or buy one of the unfinished ones from the borg and modify it.
>>
>> Basically, you're looking at a dado on either side of a central rib,
>> with one dado being higher than the other, then a sloping top. One
>> slope will be to nearly a point (rests on the wood flooring) and the
>> other side will have a bit of a slope (perhaps equal to the other
>> side), then a vertical drop.
>
> Taking your scenario a step further, you can also buy matching (and
> expensive) trim to the floor and modify that also. I had to do that in a
> couple of places in my house when I put the flooring down.
> ________
> /________ \ can become
>
>
> ___________
> |_________\ I just glued it in place instead of having a center
> vertical strip.
>
"Amy L." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may just work - however what is the odds that the T-Modling is the
> same color all the way through (brazilian cherry)?
>
> Amy
Chances are slim as it is probably just a covering. You take the material
off the bottom, not the top so it will not matter. If you have to take some
of an exposed edge, dark stain will cover it and you'll never see the
difference.