Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide will
be a must I think.
So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to a
regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
remember.
I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go down
to that size.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 06:45:12 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Steve Knight wrote:
>> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
>> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
>> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide will
>> be a must I think.
>> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
>> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
>> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to a
>> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
>> remember.
>> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go down
>> to that size.
>
>Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
>milling machine?
>
>Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
>hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
>
>HTH
>
>Lew
look at his length requirement.
Steve:
Bike over to a local machinist supply shop and pick up a solid carbide
spiral endmill. You would be able to us it both in your drill press
and a router if so inclined. They are available both in upcut and
downcut. The upcut would be best in this application if you are NOT
going all the way through quickly. But the bits are reasonably cheap,
can be resharpened..
Only concern I could see is the initial plunge might try to lift some
edge fibers, perhaps use a hand countersink would precent the chip out
in a couple seconds around the hole.
Alan
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a
> clean
> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide
> will
> be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself?
> Carbide
> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them
> to a
> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
> remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go
> down
> to that size.
>
-----------------
I've never drilled into such exotic stuff but, I think something like this
may do the job. It's a drill that you buy to accompany the BeadLock system.
It's 12.7mm, plenty long enough for what you want, and mega sharp. As a plus
it's designed to be used with drill guides. It is virtually self clearing
and makes a perfectly clean cut.
You can see it here: http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/beadlock/ and the part
number of the drill bit only is: BL/DRILL/127
If you weren't so far away I'd lend you mine to try.
>>Lee Valley's carbide-tipped brad points? (I haven't tried them.)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42352&cat=1,180,42240
>Steve said:
> I have used these but forgot why I stopped. part of it is the tips if I
> remember right are wider then the shaft. so when I used a drill bushing it
> was a
> problem.
> but I did forget that the piece will be ran through the planer so a super
> clean entrance hole is not a big deal. so the carbide jobber bit would be
> the
> way to go since I can sharpen it and that will save big bucks in the long
> run.
If you drill the hole before final planning, then use a high helix, deep
flute drill, (Bosch makes them) sharpened with a center point. As long as
you are drilling with a good drillpress and able to eject the chips, this
will work fine.
Dave
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On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 06:45:12 GMT, the inscrutable Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> spake:
>Steve Knight wrote:
>> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
>> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
>> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide will
>> be a must I think.
>> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
>> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
>> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to a
>> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
>> remember.
>> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go down
>> to that size.
>
>Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
>milling machine?
I'm pretty sure those don't have nearly the length he needs.
--
Life's a Frisbee: When you die, your soul goes up on the roof.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
What about it?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> look at his length requirement.
Make sure it is a center drilling one or you will have to drill a pilot.
Does any one know the diameter of the hole? I don't understand the symbol
he uses.
max
> Steve Knight wrote:
>> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
>> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
>> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide
>> will
>> be a must I think.
>> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
>> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
>> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to
>> a
>> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
>> remember.
>> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go
>> down
>> to that size.
>
> Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
> milling machine?
>
> Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
> hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
>
> HTH
>
> Lew
They make high helix (for rapid chip removal). I would not use a router to
spin the bit because you would just burn the wood and the bit would
overheat. I would use a TIN coated high helix bit and get some stick lube to
keep the bit from clogging. I once had to drill 2000 or so holes and that is
how I did it.
max
>> Make sure it is a center drilling one or you will have to drill a pilot.
>> Does any one know the diameter of the hole? I don't understand the symbol
>> he uses.
>
> .5" hole 2.5" deep...
First of all, unless you have a very steady unit to drill with, forget
carbide. It's only real good use is on machines that can keep the work and
bit extremely still while work is going on. ...At least that is true of
metal working... I could be 100% wrong with wood working.
Now... anything over 4X the width in depth and you probably need to peck
the drill bit to clear the chips or it will bind. ...Unless you are
drilling up and the chips fall out automatically or you are somehow blowing
the chips out. you might be okay depending on the wood. Oak would probably
be fine. Pine would probably NOT be fine... etc.
What are your production numbers - i.e. how many a day, month or year?
Tens daily or thousands daily, etc? What are your goals? Is it a blind
hole or does it go straight through the work? Are you doing this on a drill
press or do you want an automatic machine that does it all for you...
Something triggered manually with either a pull of the arm or push of a
button or will it be run automatically with a TigerStop or other system?
Lots of questions... You only asked about the bit, but some equipment can
use one type while others cannot. For instance, a drill press with work
with any bit if you have the time and the press is good enough. You just
manually peck the bit if it clogs. An automatic system might need a timer
or depth control and/or feed control to keep the bit moving slowly or fast
enough, etc.
...This is what I do all day long so if your production numbers are high,
give me a ring (web sites below). I'll help you out regardless of whether
you have equipment or need me to sell you some. :)
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-drill.com
V8013
Know someone with a motorcycle in the NY Metro area?
http://host.mynocdns.com/mailman/listinfo/enjoyliferides_yunx.com
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a
> clean
> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide
> will
> be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself?
> Carbide
> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them
> to a
> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
> remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go
> down
> to that size.
>
>
> --
> Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
> Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
> See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Two flute would be much better.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
> milling machine?
>
> Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
> hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
>
> HTH
>
> Lew
Steve Knight <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep
> in tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need
> a clean entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too
> bad. Carbide will be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself?
> Carbide
> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard.
> Or a carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed
> from them to a regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why
> though I just can't remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they
> don't go down
> to that size.
>
Do you have a local saw/blade/bit/tooling supplier/sharpener that you
trust? Here in the SF Bay Area, I'd call Bay Area Carbide, and ask the
owner what he'd recommend, given your recurring work load.
Patriarch
Steve Knight wrote:
> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide will
> be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to a
> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
> remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go down
> to that size.
Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
milling machine?
Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
HTH
Lew
>Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
>milling machine?
>
>Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
>hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
>
they work ok if there is little slop in the drill press. but a 1/2" one would be
a problem.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
IMHO if you are drilling at a 90 degree angle to the surface of the wood a
carbide tipped brad point bit should work well and keep the chips cleared
out. If you are drilling at much of an angle at all a Forsner bit is going
to be a better bet but will not remove the chips as efficiently.
"Steve Knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
> tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a
> clean
> entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide
> will
> be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself?
> Carbide
> tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
> carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them
> to a
> regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
> remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go
> down
> to that size.
>
>
> --
> Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
> Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
> See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Sure do. Come in various lengths.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I'm pretty sure those don't have nearly the length he needs.
>
> --
> Life's a Frisbee: When you die, your soul goes up on the roof.
> ----
> http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
>Lee Valley's carbide-tipped brad points? (I haven't tried them.)
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42352&cat=1,180,42240
I have used these but forgot why I stopped. part of it is the tips if I
remember right are wider then the shaft. so when I used a drill bushing it was a
problem.
but I did forget that the piece will be ran through the planer so a super
clean entrance hole is not a big deal. so the carbide jobber bit would be the
way to go since I can sharpen it and that will save big bucks in the long run.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On 13 Mar 2005 06:12:55 -0800, "arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Steve:
>
>Bike over to a local machinist supply shop and pick up a solid carbide
>spiral endmill. You would be able to us it both in your drill press
>and a router if so inclined. They are available both in upcut and
>downcut. The upcut would be best in this application if you are NOT
>going all the way through quickly. But the bits are reasonably cheap,
>can be resharpened..
I use them in my router all of the time. they are for drilling holes in a drill
press. but I need a 5" or so long one. plus a 1/2" one would wander I think.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 22:19:51 -0800, the inscrutable Steve Knight
<[email protected]> spake:
>Ok here is what I am doing and I do a lot of it. A ½" hole 2.5" deep in
>tropicals like purpleheart and cocobolo ebony ipe and such. I need a clean
>entrance and long life. Something that does not clog up too bad. Carbide will
>be a must I think.
> So do I go for a ½" carbide tipped jobber bit I can sharpen myself? Carbide
>tipped forstner bit that really needs to be longer then the standard. Or a
>carbide tipped bradpoint like lee valley sells. I know I changed from them to a
>regular bit for some reason years ago. Not sure why though I just can't
>remember.
> I liked the sawtooth bigger bits I got from lee valley but they don't go down
>to that size.
Lee Valley's carbide-tipped brad points? (I haven't tried them.)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42352&cat=1,180,42240
--
Life's a Frisbee: When you die, your soul goes up on the roof.
----
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
> Make sure it is a center drilling one or you will have to drill a pilot.
> Does any one know the diameter of the hole? I don't understand the symbol
> he uses.
.5" hole 2.5" deep...
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-drill.com
V8013
Know someone with a motorcycle in the NY Metro area?
http://host.mynocdns.com/mailman/listinfo/enjoyliferides_yunx.com
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:58:09 -0700, bridger wrote:
>>
>>Have you ever considered a four (4) flute, flat bottom, end mill from a
>>milling machine?
>>
>>Might have to play with the speed and feed, but should provide a clean
>>hole and the mill is self clearing like a twist drill.
>>
>>HTH
>>
>>Lew
>
>
> look at his length requirement.
2.5" is not a particularly deep hole for an end mill to make. He'll find
a wide variety of end mills long enough for this purpose in either the J
& L catalog or the Production Tool catalog. If he's concerned about wander
(probably an unrealistic fear) then all he needs do is make a starter hole
about 75% or so the finished size with whatever tool is handiest.
End mills tend to make a relatively accurate hole if you can hold them and
the work rigidly. Likely all the run out he measures will be in the
bearings of the drill press and the variations in the grain. There
isn't a cutting tool made that can compensate for bad bearings in the
spindle and even slow passes with a boring bar are still somewhat
vulnerable to alternating soft and hard spots in the material. A 2.5" deep
hole simply calls for a longer end mill shank.
Bill