predrilling for a #2 screw

I figure since most other posters ignored the fact you don't have #2
steel screws, I'd complicate matters by suggesting some other hardware
all together. :-P

I'm assuming you're using wood screws, so another option is to use #2
machine scews and drill and tap the hole just like for metal work.
According to the Lee Valley catalog (I think) a machine screw into a
tapped hole actually has more holding power than a similar sized wood
screw.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
>Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
>from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
>The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
>beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
>using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
>Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
>fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
>Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
>screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
>handy..
>
>

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
> ideas where to get a #2


http://www.mcmaster.com/
Greg

"Joe Bobst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> << I know about using a steel screw first to define the whole but I do
not
> have any #2 steel screws handy.. >>
>
> Would a small machine screw tap possibly give enough relief for the wood
screw?

Probably not. Since the machine screw has a different thread form, turning
a tap down the hole will attempt to cut the machine thread. When you
attempt to follow this with the wood screw, it would be like attempting to
thread a 10-24 screw into a 10-32 nut.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

<< I know about using a steel screw first to define the whole but I do not
have any #2 steel screws handy.. >>

Would a small machine screw tap possibly give enough relief for the wood screw?


Joe

>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
>Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
>from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
>The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
>beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
>using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
>Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
>fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
>Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
>screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
>handy..
>
>
>
>
Apply a bit of soap or wax to the screw? Tom
Work at your leisure!

Sam the Cat wrote:

> Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
> ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?
>
> Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

McFeely's stops at #4 too, looks like.

So I'd try:

* use a slightly bigger drill bit
* lubricate the threads with Johnson's paste wax; drive while still wet

How big is a #2 screw anyway? I haven't really learned screw sizes, since I
usually just use the screws that come with my crap BORG hardware.

What I'm thinking is, might you not find a suitable screw in some little
toy, or a computer? I can think of lots of little steel screws I've seen
along the way, though I'd guess it's probably unlikely any of them have the
right thread pitch for wood.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Many many years ago in high school shop we were taught to take a drill
bit and lay it along side the screw we wanted to pre-drill. When we
could just see the bottoms of both 'V's over the thichness of the bit,
we had the correct drill bit to pre-drill with. Don't know if thats a
1/16th in your case or not but its always worked for me.

Try some of the wax from a toilet bowl ring on the threads. Works great
and one $1 ring will last years and years.

Grandpa John

Sam the Cat wrote:

> I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..
>
>
>

cool -- thanks
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
> > ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?
> >
> > Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......
> >
>
>
> You can get #2 and much smaller here.
>
> http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/TX.cfm
>
>

Sam the Cat wrote:

> I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..

Have you tried applying some wax to the threads of the screws first?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
>Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
>from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
>The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
>beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
>using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
>Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
>fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
>Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
>screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
>handy..

Why are you here? So wait until you can get some.

I use a gimlet. Lee Valley sells a pretty inexpensive set.
RJ
"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
>shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..
>
>
>

MSCDirect.com and McMaster-Carr both list #2 steel woodscrews

John

On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 11:27:07 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Sam the Cat wrote:
>
>> Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
>> ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?
>>
>> Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......
>
>McFeely's stops at #4 too, looks like.
>
>So I'd try:
>
>* use a slightly bigger drill bit
>* lubricate the threads with Johnson's paste wax; drive while still wet
>
>How big is a #2 screw anyway? I haven't really learned screw sizes, since I
>usually just use the screws that come with my crap BORG hardware.
>
>What I'm thinking is, might you not find a suitable screw in some little
>toy, or a computer? I can think of lots of little steel screws I've seen
>along the way, though I'd guess it's probably unlikely any of them have the
>right thread pitch for wood.

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..
>
>
>
>
If you use a caliper on the shank of the screw, I believe you'll find
that a 5/64 bit is more appropriate. Should ease the situation a lot.

Using a steel screw to thread the holes first is a good idea. You can also
use a lubricant on the brass ones. Beeswax preferably, but bar soap works in
a pinch. --dave

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
>shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..
>
>
>

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
> ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?
>
> Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......
>


You can get #2 and much smaller here.

http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/TX.cfm

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got
> any
> ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?
>
> Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

I get #2 in steel from my local Ace Hardware. I predrill the screw hole
with a small wire size drill bit (obtained from my local hobby store), then
wax the screws before driving.

As a final note, you may want to put a little padded f-clamp around the box
back to squeeze the thin stock as you are driving the screw. Those little
1/2" hinges have holes so close to the barrels that in some woods the tiny
screw can make the side of the box bow or even split around the screw as
it's driven ... DAMHIKT.

Pre drill

Then use a #2 STEEL screw to cut the threads, then remove the steel #2
and put in the brass #2

If you don't have any #2 steel screws, maybe a run to the hardware
store is in order???



John


On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
>Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
>from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
>The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
>beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
>using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
>Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
>fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
>Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
>screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
>handy..
>
>

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>

> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..

Use a steel -- oh! Sorry! :)

Seriously - I think you might need to try a 3/32nd's pilot.

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......


"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..
>
>
>

"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
>shop.
> Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
> from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.
>
> The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
> beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
> using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
> Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
> fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.
>
> Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
> screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
> handy..

The trick is to use a Steel #2 to make the initial threads in the predrilled
hole and then put in the brass screw.