Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.
I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.
Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).
I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
mk II).
nb
On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 9:09:55 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
> Keith Nuttle wrote:
> > On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >> On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
> >>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
> >>>
> >>> nb
> >>>
> >>
> >> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
> >> Your choice, your loss.
> >
> > You may wish to read this
> >
> > http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/spot-dangerous-email-attachment/
> >
> > Quote"In general, you should only open files with attachments that you
> > know are safe. For example, .jpg and .png are image files and should
> > be safe. .pdf, .docx, .xlsx, and .pptx are document files and should
> > also be safe --"
>
> Given the macros that can be defined, I wasn't under the impression that
> .docx files were safe.
.docx files are OK, it's the .doc and .docm files that can be dangerous.
In the older versions of MS Office (prior to 2007) files using the default
extensions (.doc, .xls, .ppt) could be saved with macros. Those can be
dangerous.
In the newer versions of office, the default extensions (.docx, .xlsx, .pptx) can not be used with files that contain macros. You must use .docm, .xlsm, .xlsb, .pptm, etc. However (and this is a big "however") if a user wants to
save the newer version files in an earlier Office format (pre-2007), they can
still use .doc, .xls and .ppt even if the file contains macros.
So, MS Office docs with 4 character extensions that end with "x" are safe.
Docs with 4 character extensions that end with "m" or "b" and docs with 3 character extensions can be dangerous.
On 21 Mar 2016 21:23:27 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Too bad.
>
>Yes. It is sad.
>
>> Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic Kreg
>> jigs.
>
>In yer opinion.
Well if you do not like plastic Kreg pocket hole jigs ( I do )
Lee Valley has it covered.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=42329&cat=1,180,42311
On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 11:41:27 AM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Puckdropper <puckdropper> wrote:
>
> > notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10
>
> >> Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
> >> neighbors. ;)
>
> > A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
> > woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to
> > allow for that and screw on the off-cut side.
>
> Yes. The first joint I researched is the pocket-hole joint. I also
> have a fiberboard face frame cross-piece (15"x1-5/8"x9/16") that
> ripped out cuz the pkt-hls failed for the usual fiberboard reasons. I
> kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
> makes to do the job. Anyone have any experience with the all-metal HF
> jig?
>
> Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
> endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
> biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?
>
Speaking of pocket holes and biscuits, I used my Kreg jig to mock
up a 5/4" x 8" x 38" square frame for the pot rack I'm making. Once
it had SWMBO's approval, I took out the screws and used 4 biscuits
at each joint, clamping the frame while the glue dried. Just before
I walked away I looked down on the table and saw the screws lying
there. Then I looked at the pocket holes in the frame.
I paused, I hesitated, I tried to walk away. I just couldn't do it.
Back in went the screws. 4 biscuits and 2 pocket screws per joint.
The wall will come down before this thing falls apart. ;-)
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10
@mid.individual.net:
*snip*
> Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
> neighbors. ;)
>
> nb
A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to allow
for that and screw on the off-cut side.
Puckdropper
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:
>
>> kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
>> makes to do the job.
>
> Too bad. Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic
> Kreg jigs.
>
> AAMOF, I gave my old metal K2 of yore away because it did not allow
> use of dust collection to keep the holes clear ... a real PITA with
> the old K2 when production cutting a kitchen full of face frames.
>
> Built literally thousands of FF's using the newer Kreg with nary a
> problem.
>
My K4 has a metal insert that keeps the bit from digging in the plastic.
That metal insert is sharp! Use a acuum, compressed air or brush to
clean it, and not your fingers!
Puckdropper
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dlb7uoFi1f4U2
@mid.individual.net:
> On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than to use
>> biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
>> the get go.
>
> Not the way I plan to go. Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool.
>
> I was thinking the cheapest entry would be box joints. Buy a good saw,
> a good chisel, and some glue. Then, borrow a boatload of clamps.
>
> Anyone make a good joinery saw fer under $50? (saw handle). No way I
> can afford one of those Rob Cosman thingies. 8|
>
> nb
>
Have a look:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58686&cat=1,42884
(This page was the top result for "Lee Valley Japanese Saw Set", if you'd
prefer to go through Google first. ;-) )
Lee Valley is kinda the woodworking toystore, so you'll probably spend
more money than you think. But as a machinist you'll understand.
I love these saws, they're easy to use and accurate. Now, if only I
could teach myself to use these saws to their full potential.
Pull saws like this bend and wreck easily, so you must be careful as
you're cutting. Take it easy and let the tool do the work. These are
not tools that impose your will upon the wood, but rather tools that
allow you to bring out the joint hidden in the wood.
Puckdropper
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-7, notbob wrote:
> ..., I have plenty of dial
> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
Might not measure that close, but getting a tenon just right before applying
glue, is .005" or better. Those dial gages might help you adjust a fence for a
critical cut on a table saw. They definitely come in handy for table saw alignment.
On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 12:40:42 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-13, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
> > You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
> > in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
> > the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
>
> I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
> perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
> --benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
> router table.
Where have you been looking?
A simple Google search of _DIY router table_ returns a ridiculous number of hits.
Just as an example, one such hit...
http://freebies.about.com/od/free-plans/tp/free-router-table-plans.htm
...leads to this...
http://www.ana-white.com/2012/07/plans/patrick039s-router-table
...and this...
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/american-woodworker-router-table
There are probably hundreds of plans to choose from on ye ole interweb.
> I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
> allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
>
> I've so much to learn. ;)
>
> nb
On 3/22/2016 7:52 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>
>>> nb
>>>
>>
>> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
>> Your choice, your loss.
>
> You may wish to read this
>
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/spot-dangerous-email-attachment/
>
> Quote"In general, you should only open files with attachments that you
> know are safe. For example, .jpg and .png are image files and should be
> safe. .pdf, .docx, .xlsx, and .pptx are document files and should also
> be safe â"
FWIW "are safe" and "should be safe" are not necessarily the same.
I recommend clicking links and downloading only if you feel comfortable
with doing so.
On 3/21/2016 11:18 PM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>>
>>>> nb
>>>>
>>> Understood. ;~)
>>
>>
>> So, pdf files can contain viruses???
>
> I did a little reading on this, so no need to reply. OTOH, I just
> updated my Adobe Reader, and it upgraded me to its new "DC" (cloud)
> version--so the potential for troubles just increased, I think.
Ooops I replied before reading this. ;~)
On 3/21/2016 10:55 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>
>>> nb
>>>
>> Understood. ;~)
>
>
> So, pdf files can contain viruses???
Why do you think that Adobe changes their security settings on Acrobat
so often? ;!)
And besides, just because the link indicates that it goes to a PDF file
does not mean that it is actually doing that. Extensions can be easily
renamed.
On 3/22/2016 8:16 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 3/22/2016 12:18 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>>>
>>>>> nb
>>>>>
>>>> Understood. ;~)
>>>
>>>
>>> So, pdf files can contain viruses???
>>
>> I did a little reading on this, so no need to reply. OTOH, I just
>> updated my Adobe Reader, and it upgraded me to its new "DC" (cloud)
>> version--so the potential for troubles just increased, I think.
>
> I have been using Adobe Reader DC since it came out. It is the best
> version of the Reader in years. You do not need to use the cloud. I
> have never set up an online account with Adobe to use the things
> presented. (In fact I do not use any cloud storage service.)
>
> Adobe Reader DC is several times faster that any previous version.
>
> You can fill out forms with out the PDF document being set up as a form.
> You just comment as text in the appropriate space in any document that
> is a form.
>
> I get a little frustrated with the new emphasis on the online activities
> of Adobe, but they have to make make money. However once you are past
> the opening screen, it works like any past version of Adobe Reader.
>
I found that on PDF drawings generated through Sketch up that I had to
change print settings in Sketchup for Acrobat reader, the one that
looks really different, so that the drawings did not appear grayed out
on the screen and from the printer.
On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]:
>
>> I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
>> ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
>> 3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
>> NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
>> way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
>
> If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
> build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
> sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
> workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
> sled's fence to make the groove.
Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.
>
> I've seen pictures of a rig like that used to make tenons
> for chair slats.
>
> John
>
On 3/22/2016 9:32 AM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-22, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> There is another poster here that is mispositioned against Jet because
>> of a faulty set screw or something like that, and he has pretty much
>> shunned the brand because of ignorance. I would dare say that the brand
>> is better than what he has produced.
>
> Kinda funny, as Jet usta be considered cheap junk. Now --while not
> exactly in Bridgeport territory-- it's more upscale, pricey,
> acceptable. More than jes junk. (or is it?)
Jet has been pretty good for at least 20 years. FWIW a lot of
Powermatic and Jet differ only in color and name and maybe a few design
enhancements. Both are owned by the same company.
>
>> Anyway, keep an eye out for those in this group that "do" rather than
>> give opinions. Those people have a long list of woodworking
>> accomplishments and got there with a good solid knowledge about what
>> they are talking about.
>
> You make a good point and one that will not be lost on me. I know how
> to ignore trolls and my KF works better than most. Plus, I know how
> to spot those that "do" vs those who jes talk. Thank you for the
> advice. ;)
>
> nb
>
On 3/15/2016 7:30 AM, Markem wrote:
> On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 16:45:44 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
>>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>>> I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
>>>> ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
>>>> 3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
>>>> NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
>>>> way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
>>>
>>> If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
>>> build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
>>> sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
>>> workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
>>> sled's fence to make the groove.
>>
>> Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
>> years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
>> the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
>> width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
>> holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.
>>>
>
> So the coffin smoother I bought from Steve very likely has passed
> through your hand Leon, thanks.
>
Very likely if you bought between 1999 and 2006 ish. But only the mouth
block, not the whole smoother. ;~)
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On 2016-03-13, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
> > You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
> > in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
> > the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
>
> I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
> perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
> --benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
> router table.
>
> I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
> allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
>
> I've so much to learn. ;)
The main thing the lift gives you is precise control of the protrusion
of the bit above the table using a control that you access from above
the table. There are some routers now that have the same sort of
capability built-in or easily addable.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
> @mid.individual.net:
>
> > I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
> > allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
>
> No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
> start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:
>
> 1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
> Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
> the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
> straight edges for that purpose).
>
> 2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
> held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
> carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
> Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
> it, but I've seen others do so.
>
> 3 - drill a starter hole a hair larger than the router bit,
> and with the router in the table put the workpiece over the
> bit, turn the router on and make the cut. This is how I do
> it to make stopped grooves and similar cuts. (*)
>
> The purpose of the lift is simply to make it easy to adjust
> the bit height when the router is in the table. Particularly
> if it's a plunge router, the normal depth adjustment is hard
> to use in a table.
However using the lift to raise the bit into a piece that is secured by
featherboards and other controls is quite safe and can be done with good
accuracy.
>
> > I've so much to learn. ;)
>
> Gotta start somewhere, and this is (usually) a good place.
>
> John
>
> (* note that a lot of times it's simpler to make a thru groove,
> and then plug the ends with scrap stock cut to the groove's
> width)
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On 2016-03-27, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > One of the differences between metalworking and woodworking
> > is that in woodworking it's usually easy to remove just a
> > hair at a time until something fits, whereas in metal it's
> > often difficult to take just a shave off.
>
> The main difference, as I see it, is that metalworking doesn't lend
> itself, readily, to hand tools. Except for the file --like the plane
> in woodworking-- and the hacksaw, there is not a lotta ways to remove
> material. Wood? I've seen carpenters square a log with an axe.
>
> A perfect example ;)
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWfnc3RKic0
>
> nb
One does wonder what tools the Greeks used to make things like the
Antikythera Mechanism.
>
> ;~)
> FWIW you can get tooooooo anal. I don't know how small you can measure
> but anything finer than 1/128" gets confusing fast with the
> inconsistencies of sheet goods and milled lumber.
>
> I use a $35 digital caliper that shows thousandths", 1/128" and mm and
> it is almost too detailed.
>
> I am starting to see advantages of going strictly metric except for one
> fact. Hardware is very often set up with metric lengths and sizes
> however I cant tell you how many times I have seen metric instructions
> indicating to measure fractions/hundredths of a millimeter.
>
> A good example are full extension drawer slides. Almost everything
> about them is in millimeters except their width, which is commonly 1/2".
>
> Another funny one is Leigh Jigs. Directions to upgrade your current
> older jig. The instructions on the last page on the below link ask that
> you drill holes at 4.37mm and 3.57mm in diameter. Aside from that the
> jig is metric, IIRC.
https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
On 3/21/2016 4:58 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
>> I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
>> that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
>> increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
>> accurate than that for pieces to fit together.
>
> As an ex-machinist, I have some rather accurate measuring tools.
> Metric is not a problem. ;)
>
> nb
>
;~)
FWIW you can get tooooooo anal. I don't know how small you can measure
but anything finer than 1/128" gets confusing fast with the
inconsistencies of sheet goods and milled lumber.
I use a $35 digital caliper that shows thousandths", 1/128" and mm and
it is almost too detailed.
I am starting to see advantages of going strictly metric except for one
fact. Hardware is very often set up with metric lengths and sizes
however I cant tell you how many times I have seen metric instructions
indicating to measure fractions/hundredths of a millimeter.
A good example are full extension drawer slides. Almost everything
about them is in millimeters except their width, which is commonly 1/2".
Another funny one is Leigh Jigs. Directions to upgrade your current
older jig. The instructions on the last page on the below link ask that
you drill holes at 4.37mm and 3.57mm in diameter. Aside from that the
jig is metric, IIRC.
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
> learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
> ....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).
>
> I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
> and some other cabinetry stuff.
If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
John
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
@mid.individual.net:
> I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
> allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:
1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
straight edges for that purpose).
2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
it, but I've seen others do so.
3 - drill a starter hole a hair larger than the router bit,
and with the router in the table put the workpiece over the
bit, turn the router on and make the cut. This is how I do
it to make stopped grooves and similar cuts. (*)
The purpose of the lift is simply to make it easy to adjust
the bit height when the router is in the table. Particularly
if it's a plunge router, the normal depth adjustment is hard
to use in a table.
> I've so much to learn. ;)
Gotta start somewhere, and this is (usually) a good place.
John
(* note that a lot of times it's simpler to make a thru groove,
and then plug the ends with scrap stock cut to the groove's
width)
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
> I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
> ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
> 3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
> NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
> way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.
I've seen pictures of a rig like that used to make tenons
for chair slats.
John
whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-7, notbob wrote:
>
>> ..., I have plenty of dial
>> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
>> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
>
> Might not measure that close, but getting a tenon just right before
> applying glue, is .005" or better. Those dial gages might help you
> adjust a fence for a critical cut on a table saw. They definitely
> come in handy for table saw alignment.
Does anyone really measure that (the tenon, I mean)? Most
woodworkers do it the traditional way - cut it just a hair
thick, then use a plane to get an exact fit.
One of the differences between metalworking and woodworking
is that in woodworking it's usually easy to remove just a
hair at a time until something fits, whereas in metal it's
often difficult to take just a shave off.
Of course, you do have to make sure you're starting on the
fat side, since adding material is a pain either way.
John
On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>
> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>
> nb
>
From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
Your choice, your loss.
On 3/22/2016 8:29 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> Any time you make a series of cuts that result in a closed shape, a
> 1/64" is not sufficient. I make a lot of picture frames with mitered
> corners. 1/64" will result in over an 1/8" or greater error in the
> final joint. This is a significant gap. Even in a face frame for a
> cabinet you may get a passable joint but not a good joint with a 1/64"
> error in each cut.
Exactly.
An even more graphic example of angular error when dealing with curved
parts, like those found in chair making:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5852591840854584354
--
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/20/2016 2:37 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
>> practice for my dining room cabinets!
>>
>> http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/
>
> Beautiful table and thank you for the link.
>
> Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
> bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
>
> Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
> neighbors. ;)
>
> nb
>
FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
accurate than that for pieces to fit together.
On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:
> I have to replace the drawers, one at a time. I figure I'll use 1/2"
> b.birch fer the box and use a different joint (biz, box, dove, etc)
> with each drawer, depending on which tools --and how many clamps!-- I
> have access to, at that time.
Baltic birch is a good material for a relatively inexpensive, but long
lasting, with the proper joinery, drawer boxes.
A good, medium strong joint for the plywood drawer box is a locking
rabbet joint. A joinery method that will stand the test of time in any
drawer that uses up to a 100 lb drawer slide, and is MUCH stronger than
a biscuit joint for the repeated forces a drawer must eventually withstand.
The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
"locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.
Keep in mind that many full service hardwood lumber yards carry
pre-finished, plywood drawer side material, in varying widths (but
usually 6' lengths), with a groove pre-cut for 1/4" plywood bottoms,
which can also be found pre-finished with the same polyurethane finish
as the sides.
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 8:25:41 AM UTC-7, John McCoy wrote:
> whit3rd <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-7, notbob wrote:
> >
> >> ..., I have plenty of dial
> >> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
> >> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
> >
> > Might not measure that close, but getting a tenon just right before
> > applying glue, is .005" or better.
> Does anyone really measure that (the tenon, I mean)?
If you cut tenons with two-saws-and-spacer on a table saw, that's
about how critical the spacer is. I've built some screw-adjustable jigs
that need adjustment to that accuracy, for sliding dovetails.
I've built bookshelves with sliding dovetails, using jigs for routing
the shelves and grooves, If the jigs are accurate and adjusted right,
you just crank the cuts out and all the parts fit, about that tight,
On 2016-03-13, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
> You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
> in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
> the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
router table.
I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
I've so much to learn. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-14, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
> build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
> sliding sled to hold the workpiece.
I've seen a buncha U2B videos on routers and they look like a hoot!
I really like the router table lift kits.
I've seen "sleds" fer table saws, but have no clue as to yer
"horizontally" mounted, sliding sled, router. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
> Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
> practice for my dining room cabinets!
>
> http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/
Beautiful table and thank you for the link.
Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-21, Puckdropper <puckdropper> wrote:
> notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10
>> Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
>> neighbors. ;)
> A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
> woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to
> allow for that and screw on the off-cut side.
Yes. The first joint I researched is the pocket-hole joint. I also
have a fiberboard face frame cross-piece (15"x1-5/8"x9/16") that
ripped out cuz the pkt-hls failed for the usual fiberboard reasons. I
kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job. Anyone have any experience with the all-metal HF
jig?
Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?
I have to replace the drawers, one at a time. I figure I'll use 1/2"
b.birch fer the box and use a different joint (biz, box, dove, etc)
with each drawer, depending on which tools --and how many clamps!-- I
have access to, at that time. When I have the tools and knowledge,
I'll attempt the full face frame and countertop.
Now, I need to replace all the decayed rubber parts on my B&D
Workbench 225. Boy, did that thing ever fall apart, suddenly. Oh
yeah ....and replace those crappy fiberboard slats (work-top?) before
they go south! ;)
nb
On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Too bad.
Yes. It is sad.
> Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic Kreg
> jigs.
In yer opinion.
I've already dealt with enough plastic in my life. I'm getting into
woodworking cuz I wanna get away from plastic.
Yeah, I know. There is still gonna be tons o' plastic around the
shop. Try and find some hand power tools that are still all metal,
like my '70 Milwaukee all-metal-casing 1/2" drill motor. Fat chance.
I'm cleaning out my late mother's property. Jes today, I've already
found 3 almost new pwr tools. Two corded orb sanders (hope one has a
dust blwr) and and an ultra cheap B&D bat drill motor. Now I have 3
orb sanders, four battery drill motors, 2 Skil saws (gave the
worm-drive away), and they all are mostly plastic construction.
Another reason I dislike plastic: Know what a Robot Coupe immersion
blender is?
<http://www.basequipment.com/Robot-Coupe-MP550-TURBO-21-Immersion-Blender-p/rob-mp550.htm>
Our model cost over $600, yet it fell over in the kitchen and the
plastic handle broke into a dozen pieces when it hit the kitchen floor
(which is always present). Oops! Last time I saw it, it was a Red
Green special.
nb
On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than to use
> biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
> the get go.
Not the way I plan to go. Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool.
I was thinking the cheapest entry would be box joints. Buy a good saw,
a good chisel, and some glue. Then, borrow a boatload of clamps.
Anyone make a good joinery saw fer under $50? (saw handle). No way I
can afford one of those Rob Cosman thingies. 8|
nb
On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> A 1/64" gap on a joint is readily apparent. ;)
Yeah, I know. I usta be able to judge a .005" gap. Now I'm old.
Gotta wear cheaters. :(
nb
On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> A good, medium strong joint for the plywood drawer box is a locking
> rabbet joint [...] and is MUCH stronger than a biscuit joint for the
> repeated forces a drawer must eventually withstand.
I thought the biscuit joint would be stronger. I'll hafta look up a
"locking rabbet joint".
> The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
> "locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.
> Keep in mind that many full service hardwood lumber yards carry
> pre-finished, plywood drawer side material, in varying widths (but
> usually 6' lengths), with a groove pre-cut for 1/4" plywood bottoms,
> which can also be found pre-finished with the same polyurethane finish
> as the sides.
I'm in the boonies, the high Colorado Rockies, so no HDs or Lowe's
around here. Heck, the lumber yards aren't even open on Sun! :)
nb
On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
> I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
> that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
> increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
> accurate than that for pieces to fit together.
As an ex-machinist, I have some rather accurate measuring tools.
Metric is not a problem. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-22, Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote:
> Then why bother to even ask questions on a forum like this.
Cuz it's woodworking I need help with, not computer security. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-22, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
> Your choice, your loss.
Your opinion.
Not having been here long enough to know exactly who "the regulars" are, I jes went to
the website.
nb
On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
> "locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.
I finally looked up "locking rabbet" joint. Very interesting, but
will it work on 1/2" sides?
nb
On 2016-03-22, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> Do you download MS Word files?
Not if I can avoid it.
As I sed, I run Linux. Plus I've been on usenet fer more'n 13 yrs. I
see myself in this group long enough to learn the regulars. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-22, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> quote: "Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool."
>
> For my purposes a slot cutter on a router table is far superior to a
> biscuit joiner. As the pieces of wood get smaller the Biscuit Joiner
> becomes less useful. Also with a slot cutter on a router table, you
> get significantly better precision for positioning the slot.
OK! No mas. No bisky joints. Whew..... 8|
> On the comment "who makes wood cuts closer than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?".
>
> Any time you make a series of cuts that result in a closed shape, a
> 1/64" is not sufficient. I make a lot of picture frames with mitered
> corners. 1/64" will result in over an 1/8" or greater error in the
> final joint. This is a significant gap. Even in a face frame for a
> cabinet you may get a passable joint but not a good joint with a 1/64"
> error in each cut.
I asked, Keith answered.
Point noted, Keith. Thank you.
nb
On 2016-03-22, Markem <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well if you do not like plastic Kreg pocket hole jigs ( I do )
> Lee Valley has it covered.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=42329&cat=1,180,42311
These products are "no longer available", but thank you for
answering. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-22, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> There is another poster here that is mispositioned against Jet because
> of a faulty set screw or something like that, and he has pretty much
> shunned the brand because of ignorance. I would dare say that the brand
> is better than what he has produced.
Kinda funny, as Jet usta be considered cheap junk. Now --while not
exactly in Bridgeport territory-- it's more upscale, pricey,
acceptable. More than jes junk. (or is it?)
> Anyway, keep an eye out for those in this group that "do" rather than
> give opinions. Those people have a long list of woodworking
> accomplishments and got there with a good solid knowledge about what
> they are talking about.
You make a good point and one that will not be lost on me. I know how
to ignore trolls and my KF works better than most. Plus, I know how
to spot those that "do" vs those who jes talk. Thank you for the
advice. ;)
nb
On 2016-03-22, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, notbob wrote:
>> I finally looked up "locking rabbet" joint. Very interesting, but
>> will it work on 1/2" sides?
> Absolutely!
Excellent!
I think you've made my choice, for me. I called our best
lumberyard/tool/cabinet shop and they sed they do not carry
pre-prepped sides in length, so I was looking for the joint which
would cost me the least in tools. So far, yer locking rabbet joint
looks to meet my criteria better than any other joint. So, thank you
for teaching me about a joint I was not even aware of.
I have a buddy, a master carpenter, who has a boatload of tools, so I
can barrow many from him. He definitely has a couple routers. Maybe
even a table. The stuff he definitely doesn't have, I'll purchase.
Today or tomorow, I'm buying the 1/4" size of these:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71290&cat=1,41504
....as I or my buddy have nary a decent chisel fer miles. Next month,
I plan on a 1/2" B&D Sweetheart sckt chisel.
I've got my late brother's chisel (1"), but couldn't understand why it
was essentially ruined, the front edge reduced to a jagged wreck. I
later overheard someone talking (youtube?) about how carpenters always
carry a chisel to cut framing nails. Yikes! So that's what happened
to that poor chisel. That's a trick my brother never taught me.
nb
On 2016-03-27, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> One of the differences between metalworking and woodworking
> is that in woodworking it's usually easy to remove just a
> hair at a time until something fits, whereas in metal it's
> often difficult to take just a shave off.
The main difference, as I see it, is that metalworking doesn't lend
itself, readily, to hand tools. Except for the file --like the plane
in woodworking-- and the hacksaw, there is not a lotta ways to remove
material. Wood? I've seen carpenters square a log with an axe.
A perfect example ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWfnc3RKic0
nb
On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
>> "locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.
>
> I finally looked up "locking rabbet" joint. Very interesting, but
> will it work on 1/2" sides?
>
> nb
>
Absolutely!
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 3:37:59 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
> > practice for my dining room cabinets!
> >
> > http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/
>
> Beautiful table and thank you for the link.
>
> Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
> bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
Leon! ;-)
On 3/21/2016 8:17 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>
>>
>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>
>> nb
>>
>
> Then why bother to even ask questions on a forum like this. Maybe you
> should just go on in the way that you you to be the best.
>
Actually I did not open a web site myself a few days ago, for the same
reason.
On 3/21/2016 4:23 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Too bad.
>
> Yes. It is sad.
>
>> Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic Kreg
>> jigs.
>
> In yer opinion.
>
> I've already dealt with enough plastic in my life. I'm getting into
> woodworking cuz I wanna get away from plastic.
>
> Yeah, I know. There is still gonna be tons o' plastic around the
> shop. Try and find some hand power tools that are still all metal,
> like my '70 Milwaukee all-metal-casing 1/2" drill motor. Fat chance.
>
> I'm cleaning out my late mother's property. Jes today, I've already
> found 3 almost new pwr tools. Two corded orb sanders (hope one has a
> dust blwr) and and an ultra cheap B&D bat drill motor. Now I have 3
> orb sanders, four battery drill motors, 2 Skil saws (gave the
> worm-drive away), and they all are mostly plastic construction.
>
> Another reason I dislike plastic: Know what a Robot Coupe immersion
> blender is?
>
> <http://www.basequipment.com/Robot-Coupe-MP550-TURBO-21-Immersion-Blender-p/rob-mp550.htm>
>
> Our model cost over $600, yet it fell over in the kitchen and the
> plastic handle broke into a dozen pieces when it hit the kitchen floor
> (which is always present). Oops! Last time I saw it, it was a Red
> Green special.
>
> nb
>
IF you are really interested in getting in to woodworking,,,, don't have
a predisposition of a particular material used for something that it is
perfectly suited for.
There is another poster here that is mispositioned against Jet because
of a faulty set screw or something like that, and he has pretty much
shunned the brand because of ignorance. I would dare say that the brand
is better than what he has produced.
Anyway, keep an eye out for those in this group that "do" rather than
give opinions. Those people have a long list of woodworking
accomplishments and got there with a good solid knowledge about what
they are talking about.
On 3/20/2016 2:37 PM, notbob wrote:
> Oh, I have plenty of dial
> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
1/32" is a worthy goal to shoot for, as it is easy to see on most
measuring devices with 1/16" indices ... and it also lets you
interpolate to +/- 1/64th when the need arises ... and it does:
A 1/64" gap on a joint is readily apparent. ;)
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
notbob wrote:
>
> I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
> perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
> --benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
> router table.
>
> I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
> allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
>
> I've so much to learn. ;)
>
Oh man - let google be your friend. Do a simple search - there is a ton
of stuff out there for DIY plans, including lifts and all the other
stuff. In fact, that may well be one of the biggest hits on DIY
woodworking things.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 13 Mar 2016 15:53:11 GMT
notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop
you must be a l33t h4x0r
i am leon and i own a shitload of really expensive festools and you dont
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Neon Leon wrote:
> On 13 Mar 2016 15:53:11 GMT
> notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop
>
> you must be a l33t h4x0r
>
> i am leon and i own a shitload of really expensive festools and you dont
No - you are a complete asshole with nothing valuable to say.
On Sun, 13 Mar 2016 19:14:40 -0400
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote:
> No - you are a complete asshole with nothing valuable to say.
fuck you too sparky
now run along and hang some smoke detectors
in that charred shit shack you call home
i am leon and i own a shitload of really expensive festools and you dont
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"notbob" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.
I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.
Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).
I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
mk II).
nb
Do yourself a favor and take a good read at Pat Warner's site. I built the
first version of this router fence when he wrote the article for Fine
Woodworking magazine. That fence is still in-use today and just as precise
as the day I built it.
http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html
Bob S.
notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>
> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>
> nb
>
Then why bother to even ask questions on a forum like this. Maybe you
should just go on in the way that you you to be the best.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>
>>
>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>
>> nb
>>
> Understood. ;~)
So, pdf files can contain viruses???
Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>
>>> nb
>>>
>> Understood. ;~)
>
>
> So, pdf files can contain viruses???
I did a little reading on this, so no need to reply. OTOH, I just
updated my Adobe Reader, and it upgraded me to its new "DC" (cloud)
version--so the potential for troubles just increased, I think.
notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-22, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
>> Your choice, your loss.
>
> Your opinion.
>
> Not having been here long enough to know exactly who "the regulars" are, I jes went to
> the website.
>
> nb
>
Better safe than sorry when you're new I guess, but if you hang out here
long enough you'll figure out who you can trust quickly enough.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>
>>
>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>
>> nb
>>
>
> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
> Your choice, your loss.
Then download it from here.
https://www.leighjigs.com
While there has been some discussion of virus problems with PDF files,
for the most part they are inactive files, and very rarely do you have
problems with them.
Besides your virus program, (You do have a virus program?) will catch
any file that has a virus attached.
Do you download MS Word files?
On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>
>>
>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>
>> nb
>>
>
> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
> Your choice, your loss.
You may wish to read this
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/spot-dangerous-email-attachment/
Quote"In general, you should only open files with attachments that you
know are safe. For example, .jpg and .png are image files and should be
safe. .pdf, .docx, .xlsx, and .pptx are document files and should also
be safe â"
Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/21/2016 8:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>
>>> nb
>>>
>>
>> From a stranger I'd agree. From the regulars here I'd not hesitate.
>> Your choice, your loss.
>
> You may wish to read this
>
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/spot-dangerous-email-attachment/
>
> Quote"In general, you should only open files with attachments that you
> know are safe. For example, .jpg and .png are image files and should
> be safe. .pdf, .docx, .xlsx, and .pptx are document files and should
> also be safe â"
Given the macros that can be defined, I wasn't under the impression that
.docx files were safe.
On 3/22/2016 12:18 AM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
>>>> On 2016-03-21, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> https://www.leighjigs.com/download/SPDT%20and%20BJ%20User%20Guide%20Dec8%2015.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.
>>>>
>>>> nb
>>>>
>>> Understood. ;~)
>>
>>
>> So, pdf files can contain viruses???
>
> I did a little reading on this, so no need to reply. OTOH, I just
> updated my Adobe Reader, and it upgraded me to its new "DC" (cloud)
> version--so the potential for troubles just increased, I think.
I have been using Adobe Reader DC since it came out. It is the best
version of the Reader in years. You do not need to use the cloud. I
have never set up an online account with Adobe to use the things
presented. (In fact I do not use any cloud storage service.)
Adobe Reader DC is several times faster that any previous version.
You can fill out forms with out the PDF document being set up as a form.
You just comment as text in the appropriate space in any document that
is a form.
I get a little frustrated with the new emphasis on the online activities
of Adobe, but they have to make make money. However once you are past
the opening screen, it works like any past version of Adobe Reader.
On 3/22/2016 3:05 AM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-7, notbob wrote:
>
>> ..., I have plenty of dial
>> indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
>> than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
>
> Might not measure that close, but getting a tenon just right before applying
> glue, is .005" or better. Those dial gages might help you adjust a fence for a
> critical cut on a table saw. They definitely come in handy for table saw alignment.
>
quote: "Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool."
For my purposes a slot cutter on a router table is far superior to a
biscuit joiner. As the pieces of wood get smaller the Biscuit Joiner
becomes less useful. Also with a slot cutter on a router table, you
get significantly better precision for positioning the slot.
On the comment "who makes wood cuts closer than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?".
Any time you make a series of cuts that result in a closed shape, a
1/64" is not sufficient. I make a lot of picture frames with mitered
corners. 1/64" will result in over an 1/8" or greater error in the
final joint. This is a significant gap. Even in a face frame for a
cabinet you may get a passable joint but not a good joint with a 1/64"
error in each cut.
Leon wrote:
>
> And besides, just because the link indicates that it goes to a PDF
> file does not mean that it is actually doing that. Extensions can be
> easily renamed.
Yes, but on my computer, a file having extension .pdf is going to be
opened with Adobe Acrobat. I have read that if this occurs within a
browser, that the browser lends additional security.
Bill
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> .docx files are OK, it's the .doc and .docm files that can be
> dangerous. In the older versions of MS Office (prior to 2007) files
> using the default extensions (.doc, .xls, .ppt) could be saved with
> macros. Those can be dangerous. In the newer versions of office, the
> default extensions (.docx, .xlsx, .pptx) can not be used with files
> that contain macros. You must use .docm, .xlsm, .xlsb, .pptm, etc.
> However (and this is a big "however") if a user wants to save the
> newer version files in an earlier Office format (pre-2007), they can
> still use .doc, .xls and .ppt even if the file contains macros. So, MS
> Office docs with 4 character extensions that end with "x" are safe.
> Docs with 4 character extensions that end with "m" or "b" and docs
> with 3 character extensions can be dangerous.
Thank you for updating my "security knowledge" with regard to this!
Bill
On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:
> kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
> makes to do the job.
Too bad. Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic
Kreg jigs.
AAMOF, I gave my old metal K2 of yore away because it did not allow use
of dust collection to keep the holes clear ... a real PITA with the old
K2 when production cutting a kitchen full of face frames.
Built literally thousands of FF's using the newer Kreg with nary a problem.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 16:45:44 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
>>> ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
>>> 3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
>>> NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
>>> way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
>>
>> If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
>> build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
>> sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
>> workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
>> sled's fence to make the groove.
>
>Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
>years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
>the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
>width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
>holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.
>>
So the coffin smoother I bought from Steve very likely has passed
through your hand Leon, thanks.
On 3/13/2016 5:56 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> notbob <[email protected]> wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
> @mid.individual.net:
>
>> I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
>> allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
>
> No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
> start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:
>
> 1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
> Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
> the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
> straight edges for that purpose).
>
> 2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
> held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
> carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
> Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
> it, but I've seen others do so.
I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
On a different note I used a 4 flute HSS end mill bit and it lasted 5~10
times longer than any carbide bits plus it cut much more smoothly when
lowering the work.
>
On 3/22/2016 10:05 AM, notbob wrote:
> On 2016-03-22, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 3/21/2016 9:23 PM, notbob wrote:
>
>>> I finally looked up "locking rabbet" joint. Very interesting, but
>>> will it work on 1/2" sides?
>
>> Absolutely!
>
> Excellent!
>
> I think you've made my choice, for me. I called our best
> lumberyard/tool/cabinet shop and they sed they do not carry
> pre-prepped sides in length, so I was looking for the joint which
> would cost me the least in tools. So far, yer locking rabbet joint
> looks to meet my criteria better than any other joint. So, thank you
> for teaching me about a joint I was not even aware of.
Actually the was Swingman that pointed out the locking rabbet joint.
I mostly use this joint. It requires a sizeable investment for a
Festool Domino.
This is my Flickr account so you are probably safe in clicking. ;~)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/5471710794/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/5471112571/in/dateposted-public/
And FWIW I typically make drawers with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood.
Here before assembly
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/24382723850/in/dateposted-public/
After assembly but before the reinforcement Domino tenons added, as seen
an the above links.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/24050071344/in/dateposted-public/
>
>
> I have a buddy, a master carpenter, who has a boatload of tools, so I
> can barrow many from him. He definitely has a couple routers. Maybe
> even a table. The stuff he definitely doesn't have, I'll purchase.
> Today or tomorow, I'm buying the 1/4" size of these:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71290&cat=1,41504
>
> ....as I or my buddy have nary a decent chisel fer miles. Next month,
> I plan on a 1/2" B&D Sweetheart sckt chisel.
>
> I've got my late brother's chisel (1"), but couldn't understand why it
> was essentially ruined, the front edge reduced to a jagged wreck. I
> later overheard someone talking (youtube?) about how carpenters always
> carry a chisel to cut framing nails.
Or open paint cans. ;~)
John McCoy <[email protected]> writes:
> If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
> You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
> in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
> the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
practice for my dining room cabinets!
http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/
On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:
> Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
> endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
> biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?
Yes, AND there many more correct ways to build drawers than to misuse
biscuit joinery.
If they indeed do that, you should run the other way down that road as
fast as you can, as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than
to use biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
the get go.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)