In article
<[email protected]>, garyhuff
<[email protected]> wrote:
> How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> possible.
Rout the profile on the edge of a wide board, then rip it off on the
table saw. Rout, rip, rout, rip...
In article <[email protected]>, DamnYankee
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I was under the impression he was making muntins to hold panes of glass
> (correct???), therefore the muntins needs to be profiled on each side
> facing the glass.
And the profile facing (in contact with) the glass will therefore be
flat, n'est ce pas?
Smart question, and a difficult one to answer.
Skinny sticks sometimes best handled when fenced and toggle clamped in
a carrier of some sort (table routing). Some times the work can be
milled on a big stick and harvested off as necessary. Hold in and hold
downs with zero clearence fence I like too. Vacuum clamping on a jig
and then hand routing, may require sophisticated fixturing but may
yield best result/time invested.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)
garyhuff <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> possible.
Hi Gary,
If you are going to make several skinny pieces to hold window panes, start
with a large board and route both sides making enough stock for several
pieces. Then using a table saw, rip the small pieces off the motherboard. JG
garyhuff wrote:
> How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> possible.
Here is a link for a tool that might help you.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41780&category=1,43000&ccurrency=1&SID=
Daniel
[email protected] (Lawrence Wasserman) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> garyhuff <[email protected]> wrote:
> >How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> >way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> >possible.
> >
>
> Depending on the profile, one way is to rout the edge of a wider
> board, then rip off a strip of appropriate width with the routed edge.
JGS wrote:
> Hi Gary,
> If you are going to make several skinny pieces to hold window panes, start
> with a large board and route both sides making enough stock for several
> pieces. Then using a table saw, rip the small pieces off the motherboard. JG
>
> garyhuff wrote:
>
>
>>How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
>>way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
>>possible.
>
>
I was under the impression he was making muntins to hold panes of glass
(correct???), therefore the muntins needs to be profiled on each side
facing the glass.
If that's not the case, then by all means follow your instructs.
garyhuff wrote:
> How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> possible.
>
A router table, featherboard clamped on to its fence, and a push stick.
I take extra precaution when using push sticks: I always use 2 sided
tape which has sandpaper attached to it so the abrasive side sits on the
board I'm routing. It helps me anyway.
"garyhuff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
> way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
> possible.
route them as big pieces, and trim on a table/band saw to small pieces
On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 21:36:49 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, DamnYankee
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I was under the impression he was making muntins to hold panes of glass
>> (correct???), therefore the muntins needs to be profiled on each side
>> facing the glass.
>
>And the profile facing (in contact with) the glass will therefore be
>flat, n'est ce pas?
I had sort of the same problem tonight...
I'd trimmed out a cabinet face for the shop with 1/4 thick oak, (to
hide the used particle construction) and had done the usual thing of
edge rounding on the router table, then ripping the 3/4" strip off,
and routing the next strip, etc...
Had it set up this afternoon all mitered and everything, fitting it
with spring clamps to see how it would look, and my wife and 2
neighbors (we work by committee here, I think) suggested that I also
round the inner edge, which I usually leave straight...
Tried several different ways to set up feather boards and stuff and
noting looked safe... almost gave up when I had one of those "you're
thinking way to hard on this" flashes..
I figured that the strips had to have holes on them for the nails
anyway, so I drilled them and drilled matching holes in a 3' piece
redwood fence picket... nailed the strips one at a time to the edge of
the picket face and ran them through the router, then pulled them off
the picket and fitted them on the cabinet with all my fingers intact
and working normally, a goal I set for the end of each session in the
shop..
Sometimes I forget the KISS rule, I guess..
In article <[email protected]>,
garyhuff <[email protected]> wrote:
>How can I route grid pieces (or saw) for window panes ? Is there a safe
>way to handle small pieces as I intend to keep all ten digits as long as
>possible.
>
Depending on the profile, one way is to rout the edge of a wider
board, then rip off a strip of appropriate width with the routed edge.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]