I am building a buffet with 6 inset drawers of QSW Oak. They will
slide on wooden drawer supports. The drawers are graduated from 4.5"
to 6.0" in half inch increments. ([email protected]", [email protected]", [email protected]",
[email protected]"). I have not made dovetailed drawers before but I plan to
practice a lot. I will use a D4 Leigh Jig to make both half blind
front dovetails and through back dovetails. The fronts will be approx.
13/16" thick and the sides and backs will be approx. 5/8" thick.
I need to know how to layout the drawers, i.e., the dimensions I should
use when cutting my stock before I cut the dovetails. For example, how
long, high and deep should I make the fronts, sides and backs before I
cut the dovetails? Does have any advice (I'm sure you will!) or know
of articles or books describing how to layout these drawers?
Thanks,
foster239
>I need to know how to layout the drawers, i.e., the dimensions I should
>use when cutting my stock before I cut the dovetails. For example, how
>long, high and deep should I make the fronts, sides and backs before I
>cut the dovetails? Does have any advice (I'm sure you will!) or know
>of articles or books describing how to layout these drawers?
Just look at the D4 manual, it's awesome. I guess I really never gave
layout much thought. The D4 is so versatile, I just made the fronts,
sides, and backs whatever size I wanted and the D4 just accomodated it.
I can't remember the maximum thicknesses that you can put in the D4,
but I know what you mentioned will work. Just pop the boards in there
and pick a cutter that will give you the dovetail shape you want.
Maybe you're after design info? Like what's a standard size or shape
for a dovetail based on the thickness of the stock? What are you
really asking for?
brian
"foster239" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am building a buffet with 6 inset drawers of QSW Oak. They will
> slide on wooden drawer supports. The drawers are graduated from 4.5"
> to 6.0" in half inch increments. ([email protected]", [email protected]", [email protected]",
> [email protected]"). I have not made dovetailed drawers before but I plan to
> practice a lot. I will use a D4 Leigh Jig to make both half blind
> front dovetails and through back dovetails. The fronts will be approx.
> 13/16" thick and the sides and backs will be approx. 5/8" thick.
>
> I need to know how to layout the drawers, i.e., the dimensions I should
> use when cutting my stock before I cut the dovetails. For example, how
> long, high and deep should I make the fronts, sides and backs before I
> cut the dovetails? Does have any advice (I'm sure you will!) or know
> of articles or books describing how to layout these drawers?
>
> Thanks,
>
> foster239
>
>
You mean like these?
http://www.teamcasa.org/workshop/currentproject.htm See bottom of page.
I made them with the same Leigh Jig.
Suggestions:
Make the frame first.
Make the drawer faces second and watch for grain and orientation.
Make them a 1/16" wider and taller. Plane to fit perfectly.
Cutting the stock is simple. Cut them the height (+1/16") and length you
want PLUS the thickness of the back and 1/2" for the half blind dovetail in
the front.
I made drawer guides using the same dovetail bit in the router table.
Works great.
Generally the drawer length is not to critical however, height and width is
determined by the opening.
Dave
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You didn't say if you're going with through or half blind
dovetails. Throughs are easier since the sides are the
desired depth of the drawer whereas with half blinds
it depends on the thickness of your drawer front and
the depth of the tails into the side of the drawer front.
But the depth isn't critical - if you're going to leave
room for a drawer stop in the back.
Since you have the drawer openings already, work
directly off each one. Got this method from Frank
Klausz's video on making a handcut dovetail drawer
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/DovetailDrawer1.html
With half blinds here's the side measurement vs
the drawer opening depth problem (bottom of page
and the next page)
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MT/CBbench11.html
Get a hand plane if you don't already have one - or
several. A block plane is handy to fine tune the
fit - if you start tight and remove wood to fit.
hope this helps
charlie b