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05/01/2005 10:43 PM

PM 66 Tuneup Question

I'd like to get my PM 66 tuned up to precision, I've got some nice
projects lined up for next year.

I just put a brand new Forrester WWII on, and am measuring 0.004"
warp/runout.

The arbor runout looks okay, just shy of 0.0005.

The flange runout though is right at 0.001. In spec for PM, but more
than I'd like.

Would you guys do anything about these? I could return this blade to
Amazon.

Thanks for the advice,
Eric


This topic has 5 replies

DV

Dan Valleskey

in reply to [email protected] on 05/01/2005 10:43 PM

07/01/2005 12:24 AM


I gotta back Leon, the results are what counts.

Wasn't it kinda hard to measure runout on the flange below the table?

Anyway, not all Forrest blades are equal. A woodworking friend is
ready to trade me his WWII for my Freud. He even sent it back to have
it sharpended, thinking that would help. I suspect his blade is not
flat.


-Dan V.


>
>The FORREST blade is suppose to have less run out, but your run out might
>be at the arbor. Take a flat straight piece of Oak and Maple rip both and
>cross cut both. If the results are what you wanted or better you are good
>to go.
>

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to [email protected] on 05/01/2005 10:43 PM

06/01/2005 3:05 PM


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd like to get my PM 66 tuned up to precision, I've got some nice
> projects lined up for next year.
>
> I just put a brand new Forrester WWII on, and am measuring 0.004"
> warp/runout.
>
> The arbor runout looks okay, just shy of 0.0005.
>
> The flange runout though is right at 0.001. In spec for PM, but more
> than I'd like.
>
> Would you guys do anything about these? I could return this blade to
> Amazon.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
> Eric


The FORREST blade is suppose to have less run out, but your run out might
be at the arbor. Take a flat straight piece of Oak and Maple rip both and
cross cut both. If the results are what you wanted or better you are good
to go.

TS

Terry Sumner

in reply to [email protected] on 05/01/2005 10:43 PM

07/01/2005 8:42 PM


>It's harder to do with a popsickle stick, floss and a crusty
>booger.
>

ROTFLMAO

Terry

UA

Unisaw A100

in reply to [email protected] on 05/01/2005 10:43 PM

07/01/2005 9:54 AM

Dan Valleskey wrote:
>Wasn't it kinda hard to measure runout on the flange below the table?


It's almost as easy as eating pie with a TS Aligner Jr.
though if memory serves me I think the technique is
es'plained on the video and not in the manual.

It's harder to do with a popsickle stick, floss and a crusty
booger.

UA100, user of a TS Aligner Jr./gave up on the popsickle
stick, floss and a crusty booger a long while ago and as
always, Your Mileage May Vary...

Pg

Patriarch

in reply to [email protected] on 05/01/2005 10:43 PM

06/01/2005 1:20 AM

[email protected] wrote in news:1104993837.836503.185610
@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> I'd like to get my PM 66 tuned up to precision, I've got some nice
> projects lined up for next year.
>
> I just put a brand new Forrester WWII on, and am measuring 0.004"
> warp/runout.
>
> The arbor runout looks okay, just shy of 0.0005.
>
> The flange runout though is right at 0.001. In spec for PM, but more
> than I'd like.
>
> Would you guys do anything about these? I could return this blade to
> Amazon.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
> Eric
>
>

It's for cutting wood, Eric.

Patriarch


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