My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).
The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?
Thanks,
Steve
"StephenM" wrote
>
> Carole will be openning a quilting supply store on May 1st
> http://fibrejunction.blogspot.com/ . My role in the business venture is to
> provide counters and shelving, inexpensively, with a little more class
> than the stained 1x10 common pine boxes assembled with exposed sheetrock
> screws which grace far too many quit shops.
>
My wife has talked about opening a quilt shop. Congrats ar in order.
As for the 1X 10 pine boxes, I have made a ton of them But I put them
together with dados and coutersink finishing nails. Then a little putty in
the holes. let dry and sand. Then a coat of Watco let dry for a few days.
Then some wax and buffing. I also use luan "mahogany" door skins for the
backs and stain them natural.
The result is cheap and fast. And it looks pretty good too. Of course I
make lots of different sheives, etc to match.
"C & S" wrote:
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom
> is that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it
> manually it groans and lumbers forward.
Sounds like it may be a bad start capacitor.
(It's located on the side of the motor under that little hump cover.)
Open cover and look at cap for leaks and rating.
Grainger, McMaster-Carr, local motor shop, good hardware store, etc,
should have replacement.
Lew
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than
$199.
> However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.
A repair shop is unlikely to charge more than a new motor might cost since
they wouldn't get much business. It's not going to hurt to take the motor in
and get an estimate. My 1 hp tablesaw motor bearings went a few years ago. I
knew they were going from the sound but resisted taking the motor in until I
sold the saw to a close friend. Estimate was $86 with a six month warranty.
A new motor would have cost me $200 ca with a two year warranty. Had the
motor repaired and it's run fine for the past twelve years.
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
> motor).
>
> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
> open my wallet?
What is the problem with a 30 mile ride? Take the wife to breakfast and
stop at the motor shop. Chances are, it can be fixed for cheap if it is
just a capacitor or such.
On Mar 23, 1:55=A0pm, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is th=
at
> it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
> groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
Others have suggested 'bad start capacitor'.
In addition to the start capacitor, there's a switch that connects
the capacitor at startup and disconnects it during motor run.
Don't be so sure you need to buy parts; I've fixed motors
by cleaning sawdust from those switches.
It's usually inside the bell housing of the motor, near the
centrifugal arms (at speed, these weights pull a spring back
and the switch opens up).
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S" <[email protected]>
wrote:
Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than I was
pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing it, I
found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250 without
the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor. After I
moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could have
repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster Carr
type in exactly the specifications:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors/=14jbq7
>My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
>it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
>groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
>I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>
>Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).
>
>The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
>Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
>open my wallet?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>
>
On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 08:59:16 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I have taped
> them and am looking for a replacement switch for my 40 year old
> Craftsman table saw.
>
> Yes I know their reputation, but am not about to change as everything
> works perfectly and everything is in alignment. With its cast iron top
> it will probably passed on to my grandson and be used for another 40
> years.
Their reputation 40 years ago was pretty darn good! I suspect you've got
a keeper there.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
In article <[email protected]>, "StephenM" <[email protected]> wrote:
>What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
Capacitance, actually -- a measure of the capacitor's ability to hold electric
charge. MFD = microfarads. This is also sometimes shown as the Greek letter mu
(which looks like a lower-case u with a tail) followed by the letter f.
>I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
>come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
There's really no need at all to match the physical dimensions. The
new capacitor doesn't have to be mounted in the same orientation, or even in
the same place, as the old one. It just needs to have the same electrical
connections.
You don't need an exact match on the voltage; anything rated between 115V and
125V will match up with about anything else rated in the same range.
The capacitance needs to be a fairly close match, I'd guess +/- five or ten
percent. Exact match of course is better.
StephenM wrote:
> Update
>
> I found a motor place a little closer by ... more like 20 miles. My wife
> brought him the capacitor and he tested it... sadly, it was good.
>
> I schlepped down there at yesterday with the rest of the motor. He opened it
> put right then an did quickie diagnosis. He short, he got it working in
> about five minutes by cleaning up the contacts on the centrifugal switch and
> adjusting it's tension. He said that we pull it apart and clean it up before
> returning it. He had it for all of 1:45 before I gat the call that I could
> have it back. I don't know what the bill will be but it can't be all that
> bad.
>
> Thanks all for the help,
>
> Steve
>
> "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
>> that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
>> it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>>
>> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>>
>> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
>> motor).
>>
>> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>>
>> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
>> open my wallet?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
I had thought of that when you originally posted but did not post since
it sounded like you had the motor apart, and I assumed that it had been
cleaned.
Exactly the same thing happened to me several years ago. I was using the
saw and it stopped dead. After shopping around, I decided to have it
fixed, and took the motor and my checkbook to the repair shop. It took
him about the same time to fix my motor. As I remember he charged a
couple of bucks for the cleaning.
The good thing he showed me some places that I had not been cleaning and
a couple of oil ports that I did not know exist.
One point. Be caused you were trying to get the motor started you may
check the wiring in the cord and off-on switch. I just discovered
recently that some wires got hot and melted the insulation. I have
taped them and am looking for a replacement switch for my 40 year old
Craftsman table saw.
Yes I know their reputation, but am not about to change as everything
works perfectly and everything is in alignment. With its cast iron top
it will probably passed on to my grandson and be used for another 40 years.
C & S wrote:
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
> it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
> groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>
> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).
>
> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
> open my wallet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start
capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5
range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the
test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as
it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new
capacitor will run about $10 - $15.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"
> > <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than
> > I was
> > pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing
> > it, I
> > found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250
> > without
> > the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor.
> > After I
> > moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could
> > have
> > repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster
> > Carr
> > type in exactly the specifications:
> >
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors/=14jbq7
>
> Good link.
>
> What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
> I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
> come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
>
microfarads IIRC...
Type MFD capacitor into google.
Nova wrote:
> C & S wrote:
>
>> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
>> that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it
>> manually it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>>
>> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>>
>> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
>> motor).
>>
>> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>>
>> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just
>> pry open my wallet?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start
> capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5
> range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the
> test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as
> it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new
> capacitor will run about $10 - $15.
>
CORRECTION - make that 400 - 480 MFD rated for 250V.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
> If by "wobbles back and forth" you mean the shaft moves laterally
> relative to the motor case, then your bearing are long gone. If you
> mean a rotational wobble, then I'll echo the other responses. Take the
> capacitor and a $10 bill to a local motor shop and get a replacement.
>
> Tom Veatch
Rotationally.
For grins, I rewired it for 110V to see what would happen. It starts (with a
little hesitation) and runs fine from there.
It's still not right, but I'm sure it's not a bearing problem. The motor
un/reinsall is rather awkward so I'm not inclined to throw it back in there
an see how it runs for a while.
The wife will be in town on the other side of the lake today with capacitor
in hand to visit the electrical supply house.
Carole will be openning a quilting supply store on May 1st
http://fibrejunction.blogspot.com/ . My role in the business venture is to
provide counters and shelving, inexpensively, with a little more class than
the stained 1x10 common pine boxes assembled with exposed sheetrock screws
which grace far too many quit shops.
For the next 6 weeks, I am "fixture-boy", so I can't relly afford to have my
jointer out of comission for too long.
Thanks all,
Steve
Try this to see where the problem is: remove the belt. Disconnect the
capacitor and jumper the two leads together that went to the capacitor. Try
to start the motor. It should start, but it may start slowly and without a
lot of torque. If it starts, then the internal switch and mechanism are good
and you have a bad starting capacitor. If it still won't start, then the
internal switch is either bad or has sawdust in between the contacts.
Starting capacitors on dual voltage motors are generally rated at around 125
V (because the starting winding will only see 125 V regardless of the
voltage that the motor is connected for). A ballpark for MFD rating is
approx. 200 MFD per horsepower for a 3450 rpm motor.
Doug
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that
> it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
> groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>
> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).
>
> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
> open my wallet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"
> <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than
> I was
> pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing
> it, I
> found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250
> without
> the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor.
> After I
> moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could
> have
> repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster
> Carr
> type in exactly the specifications:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors/=14jbq7
Good link.
What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
Thanks,
Steve
"Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
>> motor).
>>
>> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>>
>> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just
>> pry open my wallet?
>
> What is the problem with a 30 mile ride? Take the wife to breakfast and
> stop at the motor shop. Chances are, it can be fixed for cheap if it is
> just a capacitor or such.
The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it
off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal
charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get a
feel for what might be wrong.
-steve
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The symptom is that
>it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
>groans and lumbers forward.
If by "wobbles back and forth" you mean the shaft moves laterally
relative to the motor case, then your bearing are long gone. If you
mean a rotational wobble, then I'll echo the other responses. Take the
capacitor and a $10 bill to a local motor shop and get a replacement.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Update
I found a motor place a little closer by ... more like 20 miles. My wife
brought him the capacitor and he tested it... sadly, it was good.
I schlepped down there at yesterday with the rest of the motor. He opened it
put right then an did quickie diagnosis. He short, he got it working in
about five minutes by cleaning up the contacts on the centrifugal switch and
adjusting it's tension. He said that we pull it apart and clean it up before
returning it. He had it for all of 1:45 before I gat the call that I could
have it back. I don't know what the bill will be but it can't be all that
bad.
Thanks all for the help,
Steve
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
> that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
> it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>
> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
> motor).
>
> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
> open my wallet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:yndyl.1805$6%[email protected]...
>
> "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
>
>> Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.
>
> And here I thought that was something only done in SoCal<grin>
>
> Assume "good bread" includes good deli rye, something that is almost
> impossible to find in Socal.
>
> Lew
That is exactly what I mean. Widoff's Bakery in Worcester MA had a great
sourdough Jewish rye, just like the old days. Just don't go the day before
Christmas or Easter unless you can wait in line for a half hour at 7 AM.
Same thing at Golemo's for the kielbasa. There are a few very good ethnic
stores in the area.
"StephenM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it
> off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal
> charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get
> a feel for what might be wrong.
>
> -steve
The motor shops I've dealt with have never made a charge if it could not be
fixed. In my case, that would only be one trip since we have a telephone.
Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 07:33:10 -0400, "StephenM"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Good link.
>
>What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
>I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
>come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
Being a novice in electrical, here's what I did when my
vintage Delta's drill motor stopped working, I removed the
motor from the mounting and applied power, It will not
rotate. With the power still on, I manually rotate the
pulley, it continues to rotate and speed up to full rpm.
When I switched the power off, it stopped rotating. I repeat
the test a few times to be sure. I concluded that the
capacitor had failed as the capacitor main function is to
start the motor. However, if the motor cannot rotate
manually without power on, than it could be the bearings, or
if it rotates and make a sound it maybe the carbon brushes
or other problems. If you have a millimeter and know how to
test the motor winding do it, otherwise go 30 miles and have
someone test it for you, rather than replacing the motor
like I did.
To continue the story... I tried to resizing both pulleys to
get the RPM I need for my new motor, I found it's impossible
as the pulley size will be too big to fit the constrained
space. Anyone looking for a new unused Baldor motor? Make me
an offer that I cannot refuse. I am in CA.
I believe the capacitor you need is 7245K111.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7245k111/=14vfi5
If the spec and the size fit your motor click "1" on the
"EACH" at the lower left side... and you got a new
capacitor.
Good luck, please tell us the result :-)
BTW, C.H. Wilke Inc. no longer sell Yorkcraft and I still
using the Yorkcraft 15" planner.
>
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
> that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
> it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
>
> I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
>
> Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
> motor).
>
> The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
>
> Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
> open my wallet?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
You may have bad bearings especially if the armature is hard to turn with no
power.
One cause of a hum with no start condition is a bad capacitor.
Lots of places sell bearings. Motor shops should have capacitors in stock.
I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than $199.
However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.
Jim