On Saturday, December 12, 2009 at 9:35:45 AM UTC+5:30, C & E wrote:
> What is the proper way to install a continuous hinge? I either get too much
> or not enough of a gap when I install them. Since I seldom do it I don't
> recall which mistake I made the last time let alone the proper way. What's
> the rule?
> TIA,
> Chuck
Since piano hinges are continuous in length, you must first carefully prepare the surface on which the leaves will be screwed. That's probably the most important rules.
http://www.hingehub.com/
C & E wrote:
> What is the proper way to install a continuous hinge? I either get too
> much or not enough of a gap when I install them. Since I seldom do it I
> don't recall which mistake I made the last time let alone the proper
> way. What's the rule?
Don't know any rules, but, depending upon the project, one of the first
things I determine is whether I want to swage the piano hinge first, and
for many applications I do.
Rare that you will find a piano hinge already swaged, so I swage them
using a machinist vise. Easy and only takes a few minutes, but if you've
never done it be sure to practice on a throw away first. You can also
use a hammer on an anvil, or a combination of both.
If you're not familiar with swaged hinge leafs, here you go:
http://www.hoffmanhinge.com/terminology.htm
Swaging can really make a difference in the amount of "gap".
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
C & E wrote:
> What is the proper way to install a continuous hinge? I either get too
> much or not enough of a gap when I install them. Since I seldom do it I
> don't recall which mistake I made the last time let alone the proper
> way. What's the rule?
> TIA,
> Chuck
I don't know if it's possible for you in your situation, but I always
try to have the pieces clamped together in their fixed positions to
install the hinge. Whichever position is more critical, open or closed,
is how I try to clamp.
If you're concerned about it being too tight, you could always shim
the space between with paper.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> If you're not familiar with swaged hinge leafs, here you go:
>
> http://www.hoffmanhinge.com/terminology.htm
>
> Swaging can really make a difference in the amount of "gap".
>
Cool page. I wasn't aware of that term, but very familiar with what it
describes.
I like piano hinges because they have no swage, and I've often have to
take the swage out of a door hinge or two to get them to fit whatever
obscure application into which I'm forcing them. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> If you're not familiar with swaged hinge leafs, here you go:
>>
>> http://www.hoffmanhinge.com/terminology.htm
>>
>> Swaging can really make a difference in the amount of "gap".
>>
>
> Cool page. I wasn't aware of that term, but very familiar with what it
> describes.
> I like piano hinges because they have no swage, and I've often have to
> take the swage out of a door hinge or two to get them to fit whatever
> obscure application into which I'm forcing them. :-)
Where've you been? Off gigging somewhere?
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Steve Turner wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>> If you're not familiar with swaged hinge leafs, here you go:
>>>
>>> http://www.hoffmanhinge.com/terminology.htm
>>>
>>> Swaging can really make a difference in the amount of "gap".
>>>
>>
>> Cool page. I wasn't aware of that term, but very familiar with what
>> it describes.
>> I like piano hinges because they have no swage, and I've often have to
>> take the swage out of a door hinge or two to get them to fit whatever
>> obscure application into which I'm forcing them. :-)
>
> Where've you been? Off gigging somewhere?
>
That would be nice. :-)
The artist I played for on that radio gig is getting a bunch of plays on
network TV shows, so things might pick up.
Holiday travel + bronchitis = low usenet postage. :-)
My new-to-me Macbook Pro arrives, today, so I'll be back with blistering
speed.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> C & E wrote:
>> What is the proper way to install a continuous hinge? I either get
>> too much or not enough of a gap when I install them. Since I seldom
>> do it I don't recall which mistake I made the last time let alone the
>> proper way. What's the rule?
>
> Don't know any rules, but, depending upon the project, one of the first
> things I determine is whether I want to swage the piano hinge first, and
> for many applications I do.
>
> Rare that you will find a piano hinge already swaged, so I swage them
> using a machinist vise. Easy and only takes a few minutes, but if you've
> never done it be sure to practice on a throw away first. You can also
> use a hammer on an anvil, or a combination of both.
>
> If you're not familiar with swaged hinge leafs, here you go:
>
> http://www.hoffmanhinge.com/terminology.htm
>
> Swaging can really make a difference in the amount of "gap".
>
Well, I'll be damned. I did that just a few days ago on a project I'm
working on. It wasn't a continuous hinge, but it made an enormous
difference in how the door hung and how much gap I had.
I didn't know what it was called at the time, but I'll remember it from
now on.
Thanks for the info, Swing.
Tanus
On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 23:05:45 -0500, "C & E" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What is the proper way to install a continuous hinge? I either get too much
>or not enough of a gap when I install them. Since I seldom do it I don't
>recall which mistake I made the last time let alone the proper way. What's
>the rule?
>TIA,
>Chuck
...don't know that there are any "rules" but I always start with the
notion that I don't want to see the flaps when the door is
closed...then figger how that's gonna work with the material I'm
working with (ply or solid are 'bout all I work with); for example,
I'm not big on screwing into plys, but with pre-drilling I've made it
work...I usually put the hinge on the door first, paying attention to
lining up with the actual width of the hinge (the part that's *not*
the barrel, which will cause the screws to be just about centered in
3/4" material), then attach to the carcass in the same manner...if you
use just a few screws in the hanging phase, there is room to adjust
by using different holes if necessary...
cg