Q's about No. 7c Plane

Andy Dingley wrote:
> Stop now. Find an old #4 (cheap, even if you have to buy it from
> eBay). Restore that one first.
>
> A #7 is awkward to work on, just because of the size. This one is
also
> corrugated, and has personal history. Practice on an easy one first.

Andy doesn't need anybody to bolster his opinion, but I'm doing it
anyway. He's right, find yourself a practice plane first. That baby is
too valuable, in so many ways, to be the first plane you restore.

If I may suggest, Frank Klausz, http://www.frankklausz.com/ has a video
called Hand Tools with Frank Klausz, that goes through the process of
restoring an old flea market plane along with several other tools. It's
a great addition to your reference pile. Watching someone do it really
helps.

> Electrolysis is worth doing, lapping isn't.

I'll leave that decision to the more experienced. I'd be interested in
why, though. There seem to be two pretty strong schools of thought on
that.

Dan

Patriarch wrote:

> Where it's going is likely to a double digit hand plane count. Unless
> you're very careful. ;-)

Hmmm...

Damn. I guess you're right. I count 12. I still need a couple others.

But at least I don't have a *triple* digit count like some of you
nutjobs. :)

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Silvan wrote:
> Damn. I guess you're right. I count 12. I still need a couple others.
> But at least I don't have a *triple* digit count like some of you
> nutjobs. :)

Hey! I got another one today. A Vaughn and Bushnell #805. A
heavy casting version of a round side Bedrock 605 made in
Chicago. Japanning's spotty, but other than that it's in great
condition, even the tote's good.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/

Thanks for responding.

I'll stop by the local flea market on Saturday, see what I can find (I
know of one tool dealer in particular who may have something). My
girlfriend was thrilled to hear "that I need to buy ANOTHER plane so I
can use this one."

I was planning on learning how to use this, and any others, by building
Bob and Dave’s Good, Fast, and Cheap Bench,
(http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm) to replace a crappy bench
I made from a kitchen counter we tore out. I'd use the planes to level
the top (fir, most likely). Would a #4 and #7 be all I need? I think I
can see where this is going.

Anyway, thanks Andy, Patriarch and others who responded. I'll try to
keep out of the electrolysis vs. lap debate.

> Thanks for responding.
> I'll stop by the local flea market on Saturday, see what I can find (I know of one tool dealer in particular who may have
> something). My girlfriend was thrilled to hear "that I need to buy ANOTHER plane so I can use this one."
> I was planning on learning how to use this, and any others, by building Bob and Dave's Good, Fast, and Cheap Bench,
> (http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm) to replace a crappy bench I made from a kitchen counter we tore out. I'd use the
> planes to level the top (fir, most likely). Would a #4 and #7 be all I need? I think I can see where this is going.
> Anyway, thanks Andy, Patriarch and others who responded. I'll try to keep out of the electrolysis vs. lap debate.


You'll need the #7 to flatten the top, definitely. It is the perfect plane for that. I
recently bought a #8 and will use it for the same purpose, as I am building a
workbench as well. But a harder wood for the top is much better than DF, which
is soft and chips too deeply, too easily. I spent around $150 for 32 b/f of 8/4 hard
maple but the trestle will be DF.

What I read on flattening tops... use a slightly rounded edge blade to plane across*
the lamination which is also across the grain (not lengthwise) once the glue is fully
dry, making super thin shavings. After that, the other way with a flat edge for
lengthwise planing. You'd need a new blade as a flat edge, the old blade used as
rounded. My top will have four threaded rods.

Ian Kirby, Woodworker's Journal Oct. '04 vol. 28, No. 5
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/index.cfm/bestnet

--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free excellent windows bible)

"B. Lerner" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> I just received my (long deceased) grandfather's No. 7 hand plane.

Welcome to the slippery slope! And congratulations on the receipt of your
grandfather's handplane. I believe that old tools are another means of
reaching across generations, and better understanding who we are, and from
whence we came. My grandfather's drawknives, fencing pliers and other hand
tools are gentle reminders of what they accomplished without straightedges
accurate to .002".

There are many more qualified in the intricacies of old handplanes than am
I, but let me offer some experience I've gleaned, over the past several
years.

Handplanes needn't be shiny, polished, painted and spiffy, in order to do
what they were intended to do. Get the rust & crud wiped off with kerosene
and/or mineral spirits, sharpen the blade, maybe file the chip breaker a
little bit, and use the tool your grandfather used. Unless the old blade
is seriously pitted, you needn't replace it. Several of my planes have
blades older than my father, and they sharpen well, hold an edge, and take
wispy curly shavings as well or better than new.

If you believe, after some months, that you want to 'pretty this thing up',
then follow that path. But it's not really needed.

Oh. Try Pete Niederberger for old parts & tools. pniederber at aol dot
com for email

Patriarch,
once in a while, old school.

"B. Lerner" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> 1. It looks just like a Type 7 or Type 8 plane, as per pictures on
> eBay
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=61438
> 78270&rd=1 and info from Stanley Plane type study
> http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip8/stanley/stan-bpl/bailey-types.htm
> and Patrick's Blood and Gore
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm

If it's a Stanley (and it seems reasonable to think it is, those
being the most common), then it's a type 12 or later, because it's
got the high knob.

> However, it doesn't say Stanley anywhere on the tool (the only marks
> I've found are the "No. 7" on the toe and "E8" stamped on the iron),
> which leads me to suspect that it's another brand. Is this correct,
> and any ideas who made it?

Looking very closely at the top of the iron, and also at the depth
adjuster, might give some hints. Almost all plane makers seem to
have stamped their brand onto the iron.

> 2. The lateral adjustment lever is snapped about 1 1/2" up. Is this
> going to interfere with use? If so, any suggests for repair?

Probably not.

I'm not going to comment on the wisdom or not of trying to restore
a plane of possible emotional significance :-)

John

"B. Lerner" <[email protected]> wrote in news:CeidnTu47auxqHrcRVn-
[email protected]:

<snip>
> Would a #4 and #7 be all I need? I think I
> can see where this is going.
>

Where it's going is likely to a double digit hand plane count. Unless
you're very careful. ;-)

To the two you already list, you will likely want to add a #5, and/or one
of it's variants, as well as one or more adjustable mouth block planes.

After that, it depends on what you build, and if you like the quiet
methods. You may never buy another handplane.

Before you head off to the flea market, visit the following sites:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=48940&cat=1,41182
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/

Then you can see what you can buy, new, tuned, ready-to-use, and get an
idea of what you 'save' by purchasing pre-WWII Stanleys, and cleaning them
up yourself. I have planes from each of them, and they are all top notch
tools.

Patriarch

"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Patriarch wrote:
>
> > Where it's going is likely to a double digit hand plane count. Unless
> > you're very careful. ;-)
>
> Hmmm...
>
> Damn. I guess you're right. I count 12. I still need a couple others.
>
> But at least I don't have a *triple* digit count like some of you
> nutjobs. :)
>
> --
> Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
> Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
> http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
> http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

How about quadruple digit? See the cover of FW Tools & Shops last month?

Impressive.

Joe C.

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 19:57:33 -0700, "B. Lerner"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Thanks for responding.
>
>I'll stop by the local flea market on Saturday, see what I can find (I
>know of one tool dealer in particular who may have something). My
>girlfriend was thrilled to hear "that I need to buy ANOTHER plane so I
>can use this one."

but honey, I neeeeed it....




>
>I was planning on learning how to use this, and any others, by building
>Bob and Dave’s Good, Fast, and Cheap Bench,
>(http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm) to replace a crappy bench
>I made from a kitchen counter we tore out. I'd use the planes to level
>the top (fir, most likely). Would a #4 and #7 be all I need?

probably follow up with a card scraper.




> I think I
>can see where this is going.

<Grin>


>
>Anyway, thanks Andy, Patriarch and others who responded. I'll try to
>keep out of the electrolysis vs. lap debate.

no debate, really. both good processes, but for different things. you
may end up doing both...

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 22:37:00 -0700, "B. Lerner"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>This is my first hand plane. It's in rough shape, and I'm going to try
>and restore/repair it this weekend,

Stop now. Find an old #4 (cheap, even if you have to buy it from
eBay). Restore that one first.

A #7 is awkward to work on, just because of the size. This one is also
corrugated, and has personal history. Practice on an easy one first.

Electrolysis is worth doing, lapping isn't.
--
Smert' spamionam

John McCoy wrote:
> If it's a Stanley (and it seems reasonable to think it is, those
> being the most common), then it's a type 12 or later, because it's
> got the high knob.

Actually, it is the low knob, it just looks like the high because of the
pics. Here's the knob, compared to the side by side provided by Patrick
Leach (from http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num3)

http://home.comcast.net/~bmlerner/Misc/Knob_comparison.jpg


> Looking very closely at the top of the iron, and also at the depth
> adjuster, might give some hints. Almost all plane makers seem to
> have stamped their brand onto the iron.

I'll take a closer look when I clean it up. Thanks.


> I'm not going to comment on the wisdom or not of trying to restore
> a plane of possible emotional significance :-)

No sweat. My grandfather was dead 20 years before I was born, so I'm
not too attached to the plane.


Thanks for responding,

Brian

"s2s" <[email protected]> writes:
>Andy Dingley wrote:

>> Electrolysis is worth doing, lapping isn't.
>
>I'll leave that decision to the more experienced. I'd be interested in
>why, though. There seem to be two pretty strong schools of thought on
>that.

Electrolysis is cosmetic, while lapping is functional.

If you want a pretty plane, use electrolysis.

If you want a functional plane, lap the sole. Note that
the sole doesn't have to be dead flat for the plane to be
functional, so many don't believe lapping is necessary at
all. Lapping can also adversely affect the angle between
the side and base of the plane for shooting, although many
bench planes aren't advertised as shooting planes and
consequently haven't been spec'd as perfectly square side
to sole anyway.

Brush the crap off with a stiff brush, sharpen the iron
and plane away. Tune it once you understand its defects.

scott