I have been using hand tools more often lately and can definitly tell when I
am starting to loose the edge. I have a Tormek which does a nice job on
"major resharpenings" but I was wondering if it would be easier to do touch
up with other methods. Something along the lines of doing the major bevel on
the tormek and the micro on something else.
I have been scanning for products and the shapton water stones look
interesting -- the benefits of water stone but you do not have to keep them
soaking wet..... Thinking that a #1000 and #5000 would suffice for
touchups.
anybody else what to share their method(s) ?
Well unless you have a ding in your chisel I certainly wouldn't use the
tormek to touch up your chisel, but you probably already knew that.
Once your bevel and your intial hoaning is done I would just touch it
up with a shapton 5000 then go up to either a shapton 8000 or a japanes
water stone. What everyone likes to say here "...depending on what your
doing." If your paring, 8000 or even higher!!! If your just hacking out
mortises 5000 grit is more than enough. Just make sure your stones are
flat and that the back of the chisel/plane blade is flat. I read an
article recently from a proffesional who has been sharpening for years,
he said of all the woodworker tools he's sharpenened over his career he
rarely sees a chisel/plane blade that has been flattened correctly.
This is my procedure.
Tormek to get bevel
course diamond stone to flatten back
1000 grit shapton to refine edge and back
5000 grit shapton to sharpen
8000 Japanese water stone to refine
15000 when I haven't taken my medication
I can easily cut a piece of paper in half cleanly. Shaving is for
razors and hairy people.
Sam The Cat wrote:
> I have been using hand tools more often lately and can definitly tell when I
> am starting to loose the edge. I have a Tormek which does a nice job on
> "major resharpenings" but I was wondering if it would be easier to do touch
> up with other methods. Something along the lines of doing the major bevel on
> the tormek and the micro on something else.
>
> I have been scanning for products and the shapton water stones look
> interesting -- the benefits of water stone but you do not have to keep them
> soaking wet..... Thinking that a #1000 and #5000 would suffice for
> touchups.
>
> anybody else what to share their method(s) ?
>
>
>
Coarse grit, the stucco on the side of the house. Finish off by
scraping it on the concrete garage floor. Works great. Trust me.
tough to type in this funny jacket,
jo4hn
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well unless you have a ding in your chisel I certainly wouldn't use the
> tormek to touch up your chisel, but you probably already knew that.
> Once your bevel and your intial hoaning is done I would just touch it
> up with a shapton 5000 then go up to either a shapton 8000 or a japanes
> water stone. What everyone likes to say here "...depending on what your
> doing." If your paring, 8000 or even higher!!! If your just hacking out
> mortises 5000 grit is more than enough. Just make sure your stones are
> flat and that the back of the chisel/plane blade is flat. I read an
> article recently from a proffesional who has been sharpening for years,
> he said of all the woodworker tools he's sharpenened over his career he
> rarely sees a chisel/plane blade that has been flattened correctly.
> This is my procedure.
>
> Tormek to get bevel
> course diamond stone to flatten back
> 1000 grit shapton to refine edge and back
> 5000 grit shapton to sharpen
> 8000 Japanese water stone to refine
> 15000 when I haven't taken my medication
>
> I can easily cut a piece of paper in half cleanly. Shaving is for
> razors and hairy people.
>
thanks -- from what I gather you feel the 5000 and 8000 would do the job. I
am mainly using the chisels for paring and desire the shapest of edges --
hence the need to touch up at frequent intervals
> thanks -- from what I gather you feel the 5000 and 8000 would do the job. I
> am mainly using the chisels for paring and desire the shapest of edges -- hence the need to touch up at frequent intervals
>
>
Sam, brudda! ALL you need is a slab of smooth strapping leather. About ten strokes
and see how sharp it the blade gets. Quite awesome. There is a recent post called
"Stropping" and should still be in your list, I suggest give all of it a read, it isn't that
much.
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
stoutman wrote:
>>Others use different techniques to arrive at equal or better results.
>
>
> Or worse results. :^{
>
>
:) I'm no expert. I HAVE to use the MKII guide to get spot-on straight
bevels. No way I can free-hand hone a chisel or blade and get results
acceptable to me and probably not to anyone else either. I use all the
"crutches" at my disposal. If I had deeper pockets I'd most likely
spring for the Veritas or Tormek too. It was pricey enough getting the
large DMT stones!
Dave
Sam The Cat wrote:
> I have been using hand tools more often lately and can definitly tell when I
> am starting to loose the edge. I have a Tormek which does a nice job on
> "major resharpenings" but I was wondering if it would be easier to do touch
> up with other methods. Something along the lines of doing the major bevel on
> the tormek and the micro on something else.
>
> I have been scanning for products and the shapton water stones look
> interesting -- the benefits of water stone but you do not have to keep them
> soaking wet..... Thinking that a #1000 and #5000 would suffice for
> touchups.
>
> anybody else what to share their method(s) ?
>
>
>
I use the 4x10" DMT stones, (all 4 grits they make), and then on to
higher grit sandpaper. since I don't like raising the blades on the
backstroke, I avoid the wet papers until I need their high grit (too
many times I've sliced the papers). Then I polish with a 5" fabric
wheel on a handheld die grinder, loaded lightly with Meguairs metal
polish. The results are spectacular. Others use different techniques
to arrive at equal or better results.
Dave
I use the Scary Sharp various grades of sandpaper method. Bought a slab of
granite from Grizzly which is as flat as they come, and the Veritas MK II
hoing guide which gets me the angle and provides roller support during
sharpening. This is a terrific piece of equipment.
I use 11 in x 4 1/4 (1/2 sheet of standard paper) of wet and dry sandpaper,
moistened under the tap, lay on the granite slab and move to finer grits.
Works good enough for my needs. So far used for chisels and plane blades.
Dave Paine.
"Sam The Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have been using hand tools more often lately and can definitly tell when
>I am starting to loose the edge. I have a Tormek which does a nice job on
>"major resharpenings" but I was wondering if it would be easier to do touch
>up with other methods. Something along the lines of doing the major bevel
>on the tormek and the micro on something else.
>
> I have been scanning for products and the shapton water stones look
> interesting -- the benefits of water stone but you do not have to keep
> them soaking wet..... Thinking that a #1000 and #5000 would suffice for
> touchups.
>
> anybody else what to share their method(s) ?
>
>
>
I use the leather wheel on my Tormek. Works great.
Craig
www.westcrafttrailer.com
"Sam The Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have been using hand tools more often lately and can definitly tell when
>I am starting to loose the edge. I have a Tormek which does a nice job on
>"major resharpenings" but I was wondering if it would be easier to do touch
>up with other methods. Something along the lines of doing the major bevel
>on the tormek and the micro on something else.
>
> I have been scanning for products and the shapton water stones look
> interesting -- the benefits of water stone but you do not have to keep
> them soaking wet..... Thinking that a #1000 and #5000 would suffice for
> touchups.
>
> anybody else what to share their method(s) ?
>
>
>