Like an idiot I had some walnut plywood cut and didn't consider the
grain direction on it so I'll need to apply some veneer over some
pieces.
Haven't used veneer in a while and when I did it was self adhesive
stuff I believe.
But on material without backing, what is the absolute best way to go?
Contact cements are hit and miss -- there are some good professional
ones though.
I have some 3M hi strength 90 spray (damn good) (but edge cleanup?)
Also have some 3M 468 transfer tape at my disposal I could use.
I know with the 3M 90 it will stay put but concerned about cleaning
the excess adhesive.
"mkr5000" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like an idiot I had some walnut plywood cut and didn't consider the
> grain direction on it so I'll need to apply some veneer over some
> pieces.
>
> Haven't used veneer in a while and when I did it was self adhesive
> stuff I believe.
>
> But on material without backing, what is the absolute best way to go?
>
> Contact cements are hit and miss -- there are some good professional
> ones though.
>
> I have some 3M hi strength 90 spray (damn good) (but edge cleanup?)
>
> Also have some 3M 468 transfer tape at my disposal I could use.
>
> I know with the 3M 90 it will stay put but concerned about cleaning
> the excess adhesive.
The size of the veneer and the thickness is going to come into play.
I typically use regular wood glue when I veneer. But, I typically don't
work with large pieces. The trick is to get the "whole" surface clamped
with adequate uniform pressure.
A contact adhesive may be a better or easier choice as the glue sets up
quickly and using a roller to press the entire surface to ensure complete
contact would replace clamping the entire surface for an hour or more.
On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 07:50:48 -0800, mkr5000 wrote:
> Haven't used veneer in a while and when I did it was self adhesive stuff
> I believe.
>
> But on material without backing, what is the absolute best way to go?
Hide glue and a veneer hammer. If you don't have a glue pot, the liquid
version works almost as well.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
I may be answering my own question as I just experimented with the HS
90 spray.
Seems that 3M recomends a citrus base adhesive remover for it so I
just tried some "goo gone" and it works great. This adhesive is very
sticky so i didn't think anything off the shelf would work.
If the HS 90 doesn't harm the veneer -- I think it's the way to go.
Extremely strong stuff -- (stronger than contact cement in my
experience).
"mkr5000" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Like an idiot I had some walnut plywood cut and didn't consider the
> grain direction on it so I'll need to apply some veneer over some
> pieces.
>
> Haven't used veneer in a while and when I did it was self adhesive
> stuff I believe.
>
> But on material without backing, what is the absolute best way to go?
>
> Contact cements are hit and miss -- there are some good professional
> ones though.
>
> I have some 3M hi strength 90 spray (damn good) (but edge cleanup?)
>
> Also have some 3M 468 transfer tape at my disposal I could use.
>
> I know with the 3M 90 it will stay put but concerned about cleaning
> the excess adhesive.
I recently made some stacking tables with curly maple veneer attached to a
baltic birch substrate. I used Titebond cold press veneer glue. You have
good long working time. I used a scrapbooking rubber roller to spread the
glue. I used two cauls on top and bottom that were wrapped in Saran wrap.
Cane out great.
mkr5000 wrote:
> Like an idiot I had some walnut plywood cut and didn't consider the
> grain direction on it so I'll need to apply some veneer over some
> pieces.
>
> Haven't used veneer in a while and when I did it was self adhesive
> stuff I believe.
>
> But on material without backing, what is the absolute best way to
> go?
>
> Contact cements are hit and miss -- there are some good professional
> ones though.
>
> I have some 3M hi strength 90 spray (damn good) (but edge cleanup?)
>
> Also have some 3M 468 transfer tape at my disposal I could use.
>
> I know with the 3M 90 it will stay put but concerned about cleaning
> the excess adhesive.
We used to use cascamite and place heavy weights onto the veneered
areas plus gramps around the edges , much depends on your thickness
of veneer though some glues will leech through on some timbers or
stain .
Damping the face of the veneer to be glued does help with leeching
sometimes on veneer if your using water based glues
Its probably easier in the long run just to replace the ply and keep
your other cuts for other projects
mkr5000 wrote:
> I may be answering my own question as I just experimented with the
> HS 90 spray.
>
> Seems that 3M recomends a citrus base adhesive remover for it so I
> just tried some "goo gone" and it works great. This adhesive is very
> sticky so i didn't think anything off the shelf would work.
>
> If the HS 90 doesn't harm the veneer -- I think it's the way to go.
>
> Extremely strong stuff -- (stronger than contact cement in my
> experience).
Contact adhesive is never very good with veneer it still allows creep