I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
pencil line I will have drawn?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
"Swingman" wrote:
> However, to me this is "jig up" time!!
AMEN.
> Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
> template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in
> fairing it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
> Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line
> on the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template
> (make a jig out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the
> good wood; then route to the template on the router table with a
> bearing bit.
>
> IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the
> final product this way, and without the danger of ruining your
> expensive project wood.
Again AMEN.
Picture working with Hondouras Mahogany or teak.
Swing's approach will let you maintain your sanity.
Lew
Swingman wrote:
>Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
>template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in
>fairing
>it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
>Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line
>on
>the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a
>jig
>out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood;
>then
>route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
-------------------------------------------------
I smiled when I read this again.
There is a standard answer among boat builders to the question, "When
is a hull "fair"?
Answer: "When your arms are so tired you can't pick up the fairing
board anymore".
Fair at 50 ft is a whole lot different than fair at 10 ft.
A little tip when fairing out a curve, use a 1/2"x1/2"x1/16" aluminum
angle as a fairing batten.
Use the outside corner as a knife edge holding it against the curve
being faired.
Hold it up to the light, if you can see daylight between batten and
piece, it AIN'T FAIR, keep at it.
BTW, rubbing the aluminum edge against piece will leave black marks
(aluminum oxide) on the high spots that still require attention.
Lew
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:19:12 -0500, the infamous "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>pencil line I will have drawn?
Build infeed and outfeed tables the same height as the bandsaw table.
Smaller table frames with larger diameter tops will work fairly well,
too. Roller ball in/outfeed stands can work, too. For example:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5914
--
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
I know your are anxious to use your new BS but if you are going to rough out
the cut with you rjig saw, why do it again on the BS? I have a large Laguna
BS and dont rely on the cut to be my final surface, I only rough out curves
on my BS also.
I use a disk of spindle sander to take out the line.
Swingman wrote:
> Dick Snyder wrote:
>> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I
>> have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw.
>> My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up
>> cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a
>> fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the
>> bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut
>> the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove
>> with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the
>> headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> I see no sense in using both tools.
>
> If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band
> saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the
> curve, either by hand, or spindle sander.
>
> However, to me this is "jig up" time!!
>
> Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
> template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing
> it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
> Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on
> the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig
> out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then
> route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
>
> IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final
> product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive
> project wood.
>
What him said.
~Mark.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dick Snyder wrote:
>> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>> recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>> project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>> blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick.
>> I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with
>> is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw
>> so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have
>> any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to
>> the pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> I see no sense in using both tools.
>
> If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band
> saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the
> curve, either by hand, or spindle sander.
>
> However, to me this is "jig up" time!!
>
> Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
> template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing
> it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
> Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on
> the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig
> out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then
> route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
>
> IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final
> product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive project
> wood.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Thanks for the suggestion. I had considered this earlier but was hot to use
my new bandsaw. I think I will have to wait on that. I will take the MDF
approach.
Dick
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
> recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
> project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
> blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
> wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
> about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
> don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
> advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
> pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
>
I have the same saw. Make sure you TIGHTEN the knobs that lock the
tilt. Otherwise, with a heavy piece of wood it may try to tilt on you.
Did you buy a good blade? After a couple of trial cuts my Griz blade
found its place hanging on the wall "in case of emergency". Never
have put it back on the saw.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
The young know the rules, the old know
the exceptions.
On Thu, 03 Dec 2009 15:49:00 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
>template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing
>it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
>Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on
>the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig
>out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then
>route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
I agree with Swingman too except that I would combine Phisherman's
trammel technique to make the pattern. You can layout the radius and
mount your router on a piece of stock long enough to give the desired
curve. The longest radius I've done this with was a little over 11'
for a balcony over a curved stair. It's not much more difficult to do
with a longer radius than a shorter one.
Mike O.
I second what Swingman said. I use 1/4" mdf (damn BORG only carry full
sheets of 1/4 and 3/4). I can make sure that it's right before I cut
the actual wood. The last thing you want to do is to try to explain to
your wife why you need to buy more of the expensive wood. You said you
wanted to spend quality time with a file/rasp/dremel/whatever.
Even with an extension table, I wouldn't try it on the bandsaw
Allen
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
> recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
> project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
> blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
> wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
> about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
> don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
> advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
> pencil line I will have drawn?
I see no sense in using both tools.
If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band
saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the
curve, either by hand, or spindle sander.
However, to me this is "jig up" time!!
Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing
it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on
the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig
out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then
route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final
product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive
project wood.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"charlie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>>pencil line I will have drawn?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> Dick Snyder
>
> table extensions? rollers? basically the same way you'd approach it for a
> table saw
Clearly the answer is he needs a bigger bandsaw... gotta keep the tool
industry going in these tough times. ;~)
John
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
table extensions? rollers? basically the same way you'd approach it for a
table saw
In article <[email protected]>, "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>pencil line I will have drawn?
Yep -- don't do it. That's *much* too large to try to handle on such a small
table. If I were doing that, I think I'd rough it with the jigsaw, then smooth
the curve with a spokeshave. Or make a template and finish with a router, as
Swingman suggested.
Swingman wrote:
> Dick Snyder wrote:
>> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I
>> have recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw.
>> My first project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up
>> cherry into a blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a
>> fairing stick. I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the
>> bandsaw table with is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut
>> the curve with a jigsaw so I don't have too much material to remove
>> with the bandsaw. Do you have any advice for me about keeping the
>> headboard stable as I cut close to the pencil line I will have drawn?
>
> I see no sense in using both tools.
>
> If I didn't already have roller tables that could be used with the band
> saw, I personally would use the jig saw to rough cut it, then fair the
> curve, either by hand, or spindle sander.
>
> However, to me this is "jig up" time!!
>
> Actually, what I prefer to do with any curve, is to make a full size
> template of the curve in 1/2" mdf, take all the time you need in fairing
> it in the mdf, instead of on the good project wood.
>
> Once you have it perfect, use the mdf template to mark your cut line on
> the real wood; rough cut on jig or band saw; attach template (make a jig
> out of it that will hold the work piece securely) to the good wood; then
> route to the template on the router table with a bearing bit.
>
> IME, you get a much more satisfying, much smoother curve in the final
> product this way, and without the danger of ruining your expensive
> project wood.
This is exactly how the parts are constructed for the rocking chairs I build.
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:19:12 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick. I'm
>wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with is
>about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw so I
>don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have any
>advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to the
>pencil line I will have drawn?
>
>TIA.
>
>Dick Snyder
>
Whenever the piece gets too big for the table, it's time to build an
extension support or consider another method to make the curved cut. I
made a 12-foot valance with a long gentle curve. After some thought,
I used a shop-built trammel with a mounted router. Instead of a
router you could mount a jigsaw on the trammel. I used double-stick
carpet tape to hold the piece to my workbench.
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I got a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade (2 actually so I am not caught out
> when the first one breaks). That blade was recommended to me at a
> local woodworking show last winter as well as by several people on
> this group.
Mine is 11 years old, fair amount of use, still sharp.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dick Snyder wrote:
>> I have recently done some posting about the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw I have
>> recently purchased. I am nearly finished setting up my bandsaw. My first
>> project will be to cut a curved headboard. I will glue up cherry into a
>> blank 24" wide by 60" long. I will make my curve with a fairing stick.
>> I'm wondering how to keep that big piece stable on the bandsaw table with
>> is about 14" square. I thought I might rough cut the curve with a jigsaw
>> so I don't have too much material to remove with the bandsaw. Do you have
>> any advice for me about keeping the headboard stable as I cut close to
>> the pencil line I will have drawn?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> Dick Snyder
> I have the same saw. Make sure you TIGHTEN the knobs that lock the tilt.
> Otherwise, with a heavy piece of wood it may try to tilt on you.
>
> Did you buy a good blade? After a couple of trial cuts my Griz blade
> found its place hanging on the wall "in case of emergency". Never have
> put it back on the saw.
>
> --
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
>
> The young know the rules, the old know
> the exceptions.
>
I got a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade (2 actually so I am not caught out when the
first one breaks). That blade was recommended to me at a local woodworking
show last winter as well as by several people on this group.