This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.
http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm
I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.
I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.
In article <[email protected]>, Swingman
<[email protected]> wrote:
> What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!
Be advised that the only acceptable finish for cherry is black paint...
flat or gloss makes no difference :-)
Joe
but but but...
where are the photos of the project?
"RayV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
poly all in one can.
http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm
I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
(no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
appeared.
I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
this stuff.
YMMV.
Yep, actually a great solution for Pine. It is a film finish with
color toners added so it is not penetrating the wood per-se and thus
no blotching problem. I've never tried rag application of this but
sound interesting. Did you thin it down like a wipe on preperation or
rag it at full strength?
A few of the downsides of this type of product is it is real easy to
get darker sections where you have brush laps but maybe ragging helps
avoid this. It is also mostly 100% not repairable. Being poly and
having a color component you can't really sand out any problems and
easily blend in a new coat. You just can't feather this and the poly
doesn't dissolve with the new application. That being said I have a 18
year old (Pine) piece that my ex-wife moves every few years and it
looks almost as good as new, this stuff is hard as nails. I bought it
unfinished and lovingly used poly shades for my newborn (now 18 year
old) daughter.
On Dec 10, 5:44 am, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
> This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
> to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
> poly all in one can.http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm
>
> I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
> (no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
> very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
> appeared.
>
> I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
> but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
> another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
>
> So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
> this stuff.
> YMMV.
On Dec 10, 12:20 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Yep, actually a great solution for Pine. It is a film finish with
> color toners added so it is not penetrating the wood per-se and thus
> no blotching problem. I've never tried rag application of this but
> sound interesting. Did you thin it down like a wipe on preperation or
> rag it at full strength?
>
No prep, and wiped it on full strength with t-shirt. I did have to
smooth out the coats by wiping each coat twice to get rid of the lap
marks.
"Kate" wrote
> but but but...
> where are the photos of the project?
>
> "RayV" wrote
> This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
> to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
> poly all in one can.
> http://www.minwax.com/products/onestep/Polyshades.cfm
>
> I sanded it down to 220 by hand then put the Polyshades on with a rag
> (no sealer coat first). I didn't get any blotching and the color was
> very even. The only 'defect' was a few places where a thin dark line
> appeared.
>
> I did have to knock down some fuzz with #00 and apply a second coat
> but the second coat dried nice and smooth. I will probably put
> another coat or two on the top and drawer fronts for more protection.
>
> So if you ever need to get it done right away, you might want to try
> this stuff.
> YMMV.
Here's a picture of Polyshades (Pecan) on Pine.
http://tinyurl.com/2p7nkw
I didn't care for the looks but the woman who requested it was really
pleased.
Max
"RayV" wrote
> This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
> to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
> poly all in one can.
Nothing wrong with Polyshades on jummywood ... I've even done it myself,
using a conditioner first, with excellent results.
What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!
Be advised that not even JOAT has enough pull with the woodworking gawds to
save you from a heresy of that magnitude!
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/09/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Dec 10, 11:20 am, "Kate" <[email protected]> wrote:
> but but but...
> where are the photos of the project?
>
My cable provider doesn't provide newsgroups so I can't get to ABPW.
Besides I didn't build it, it was purchased locally at an unfinished
furniture store.
The manufacturer was
http://www.archboldfurniture.com/
Not great quality but was only $150 so I can't complain, besides who
would listen?
"10x" <[email protected]> wrote
Swingman wrote:
>> What'll get your cabal privileges revoked is using PolyShades on cherry!
>
> Be advised that the only acceptable finish for cherry is black paint...
> flat or gloss makes no difference :-)
<g>
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/10/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 05:44:47 -0800 (PST), RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
>This might be considered sacrilege by some in the group but I needed
>to get a Pine desk done quickly so I tried Minwax Polyshades, stain &
>poly all in one can.
+++++++
I used polyshades on an antique coffee table that had a combination of thin ply, and solid mahogany. The original finish
appeared to be lacquer and had a couple of lifetimes worth of wax and who know what else build up on it. I had concern
for wearing through the veneer on the surface of the plywood (laminated veneer?) so I began by scraping (seemingly
forever) with only light sanding with 220 prior to application of the "conditioner". I assumed incorrectly that the
conditioner was just another name for a sealer but in practice it is more like the wood equivalent to the stuff used to
paint autos with called "reducer". It helped blend areas with the stain that might have been still sealed from previous
finish, or glue that in my situation was sometimes a compromise to get it as clean as possible without wearing through the
veneer. The combination of the reducer and stain plus an additional number of coats of poly spar varnish provided a
stellar result, and after I repair one of the legs to replace about a one inch piece on the "toe" of one of the legs that
somebody sawed off in the past, install the new brass "cats paw" toe caps (I think the piece is made in the Duncan Hyphen
style) and finish the inside of the center drawer in black enamel I will quit working on it. (My projects rarely become
"done" it seems, so I prefer to say I just stopped working on it because I ran out of things that I wanted to do to
it....)
When completed I'd like to post it for everybody here to comment on, what is the preferred method of making the pics
available, the "tiny URL" or using the other newsgroup for binaries? My biggest disappointment with this project was in
not getting "before" images. If someone could email or post me some guidance on posting I'd appreciate it, TIA. Joe.