I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
like that) 24T blade.
If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is on
the wood, it leaves a burn.
It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
Thanks.
I have noticed the same thing myself with cherry. I don't know why, but it does seem to happen.
I will be watching for the answer.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> That's the nature of cherry. I cut cherry sawtooth standards for a
> couple bookshelfs I made several years ago. The most time consuming
> part of the project was sanding out the burn marks.
Have you tried a cabinet scraper yet to remove the burn marks? That goes
way faster for me than sand paper.
Huh? Do you mean one edge needs to be straight? i.e. the side that rides
against the rip fence must be straight? I am assuming this is what you
mean. Include a little more info in your posts OK? Because sometimes,
cherry wood can be uneven and still be ripped successfully without
burning. A well-tuned saw, clean and sharp blade and attention paid to
the feedrate will work wonders.
Just my .02 worth...
Philski
Actually, you could have said either. What you don't want is any
heat-producing friction against the wood. Wood which is not straight, wood
which is not flat, wood with reversals in grain or case-hardening which
pinches into the blade, etc. will all result in burns. As will a whole
bunch other things.
Same as with any other pitchy wood. Ever notice what happens with pine?
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I've been taken down a notch, I should have said flat....
>
I haven't cut a lot of cherry on the TS but I have cut quite a bit on the
scroll saw. I got a lot of burning at first, I switched to a courser blade
and that helped some. Then I slowed the saw down and that eliminated the
burning. My scroll saw is a single speed so I had to rig an auxillary motor
through some step-down sheves (not an easy solution).
From that experience, my suggestions would be:
1. Raise the blade higher than normal to help with the blade cooling.
2. Switch to a courser blade.
3. Reduce the blade speed.
4. Cut the wood large on the first pass and on the second pass, remove less
than 1 kerf width.
5. Cut it with a handsaw (I aint never burned any wood with a handsaw).
Somewhere in there you ought to find a solution.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
Cherry is sensitive to burning so you do have to use the right technique to
keep it moving. Also having you TS properly tuned and having a CLEAN sharp
blade helps.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
There is an article about exactly this in the current fine woodworking
magazine. Pretty much unavoidable from what I read.
Good Luck,
Kevin
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
Yobosaeyo writes:
>There is an article about exactly this in the current fine woodworking
>magazine. Pretty much unavoidable from what I read.
Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat! A sharp blade, a steady fairly quick feed, and there
should be few if any problems. Use a dull or otherwise screwed up blade, or
stop and start or verys low feed, and problems then are inevitable.
Wonder what I did with that issue.
Charlie Self
"There is nothing wrong with America that cannot be cured with what is right in
America." William J. Clinton
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 14:56:34 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
>like that) 24T blade.
>If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
>But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is on
>the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
>It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
>Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
>cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
>Thanks.
>
That's the nature of cherry. I cut cherry sawtooth standards for a
couple bookshelfs I made several years ago. The most time consuming
part of the project was sanding out the burn marks.
Read the article re cherry in this month's Fine Woodworking. Cherry burns.
Bruce C. wrote:
> I haven't cut a lot of cherry on the TS but I have cut quite a bit on the
> scroll saw. I got a lot of burning at first, I switched to a courser blade
> and that helped some. Then I slowed the saw down and that eliminated the
> burning. My scroll saw is a single speed so I had to rig an auxillary motor
> through some step-down sheves (not an easy solution).
>
> From that experience, my suggestions would be:
> 1. Raise the blade higher than normal to help with the blade cooling.
> 2. Switch to a courser blade.
> 3. Reduce the blade speed.
> 4. Cut the wood large on the first pass and on the second pass, remove less
> than 1 kerf width.
>
> 5. Cut it with a handsaw (I aint never burned any wood with a handsaw).
>
> Somewhere in there you ought to find a solution.
>
>
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
>>like that) 24T blade.
>>If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
>>But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
>
> on
>
>>the wood, it leaves a burn.
>>
>>It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>>
>>Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
>>cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
>>Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
>
Some wood, and at the top of the list is cherry, is notorious for burning
so, though unwanted, it is normal if you feed too slow or hesitate.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
would waxing the blade help at all?
randy
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am doing some long rips on cherry with a new Freud Diablo (or something
> like that) 24T blade.
> If I shove the wood through as fast as I can, I get a nice clean cut.
> But, if I hesitate for even a split second just to change how my hand is
on
> the wood, it leaves a burn.
>
> It hasn't done this on walnut, oak, ash, maple, etc.
>
> Am I doing something wrong (or is my saw doing something wrong), or is
> cherry just that sensitive and all is normal?
> Thanks.
>
>
Ok, I've been taken down a notch, I should have said flat....
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Philski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Huh? Do you mean one edge needs to be straight? i.e. the side that rides
> against the rip fence must be straight? I am assuming this is what you
> mean. Include a little more info in your posts OK? Because sometimes,
> cherry wood can be uneven and still be ripped successfully without
> burning. A well-tuned saw, clean and sharp blade and attention paid to
> the feedrate will work wonders.
>
> Just my .02 worth...
>
> Philski