I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to
tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber
but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the
composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
> people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
> here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
>
> We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
> that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to
> tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber
> but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the
> composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
> treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
I did an ipe deck last year, and am in the middle of another one now.
Both are replacements for cedar decs that didn't make the 20-year mark.
Ipe is tougher and more time consuming to work than softer woods. It
is heavy, hard, and requires carbide tools. On the other hand, it
should outlast cedar--maybe by 2-to-1. It greys nicely in a couple of
seasons, and since it is normally supplied clear (no knots), and comes
in 20+ foot lengths, it gives a very nice uniform surface with few if
any butt joints.
Special invisible (almost) fasteners are not cheap, and require
additional step of slotting the edges (unless you buy the stock
pre-slotted). This adds to the cost and time to install.
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
> people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
> here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
>
> We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
> that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to
> tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber
> but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the
> composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
> treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
Dick.
The issue with PT lumber is overstated and mainly due to incorrect
treatment before and after installation. If you buy good quality (kiln
dried before and after treatment), PT lumber and seal it before use and
on a regular basis afterwards, there is very little, if any, danger
from the chemicals used to preserve it. The main danger with PT occurs
when poor quality PT is used in the first place and when it is not
sealed. Also, the appearance is much improved by the sealant and the
annual maintenance regime allows you the opportunity to repair or
remove any damage, splintering, etc. Furthermore, I suggest you use a
low VOC sealant (such as Deck and Shake) some of which are safe enough
to drink! FYI, I have no commercial interest in this issue but did a
lot of research a couple of years back while involved in building a
community playground.
Jim
Pat Barber wrote:
> IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
> runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
>
> http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
>
> It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled
with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
> people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
> here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
>
> We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
> that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to
> tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber
> but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the
> composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
> treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
IPE is great, but 2 things to be careful with this material.
1. Wear a dust mask. I had a nagging cough that wouldn't go away for a
few weeks when I worked with this.
2. Wear Gloves. This wood is the worst when it comes to producing
hard, needle like splinters. Make sure all surfaces that children
would contact are sanded smooth.
CyBrShRk wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote:
> > IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
> > runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
> >
> > http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
> >
> > It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
>
> How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled
> with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?
I've ordered significant quantities from them twice, and was well
satisfied both times. They are helpful on the phone, too.
J. Clarke wrote:
> Dick Snyder wrote:
>
> > I just googled and found your posting. The wood looks kind of like the
> > color
> > of redwood. I have seen ipe decks and they are grey (with age). Does ipe
> > look like that in your pictures when it is new or did you apply some kind
> > of finish? Your project looks great by the way!
>
> There's a good deal of color variation in ipe. I have some cabinet grade
> Argentinian ipe whose appearance is almost indistinguishable from black
> walnut--in fact it is sometimes sold as "Brazilian Walnut".
>
If you hit it with yellow dye and a coat of shellac, you get a reddish
brown that looks just like mahogany with the right grain and everything.
I just googled and found your posting. The wood looks kind of like the color
of redwood. I have seen ipe decks and they are grey (with age). Does ipe
look like that in your pictures when it is new or did you apply some kind of
finish? Your project looks great by the way!
"Tom Banes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:15:08 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>What advice can you give me?
>
>
> I posted a note on an IPE deck earlier this year "IPE DEck Finished"
> with a link to pics.
>
> It's great stuff if a bit expensive.
>
> Regards.
I made fence pickets from it. It splits too easily and
has lots of knots. Its also hard to get lengths and widths
suitable to cover very much deck.
I've used Trex and treated. Wish it was all Trex!
Jim
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:vF8yg.13578$lq2.4416@trndny03...
>>
>> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.
>>>
>>> IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
>>> runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
>>
>>
>> Two years ago I bought mahogany and it was 30¢ a linear foot cheaper than
>> ipe. $1.89 versus $2.19. I'm sure both are higher today.
>>
> Just a thought, but has anybody ever done or seen a deck made out of the
> Eastern cedar? The red/white good smelling fence post cedar?
>
"Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tim,
>
> Are you referring to Eastern White Cedar that comes from the northeast or
> aromatic red cedar (juniper) that grows like a weed here in Kentucky?
>
> I was referring to juniper when I said it splits easily. Its used for
> cedar chests and closet linings. Keep bugs out and smells great.
>
> Jim in Kentucky
Jim,
Yes, that's the type I was referring to, the red cedar. I really didn't know
it was juniper though. The same buddy of mine that has a hog barn full of
it, is planking his house with it and it looks really good. He's had the
majority of it finished for a couple years and the smell is gone, but it's
still pretty. I've made some outdoor furniture with it, adirondack chairs,
swing, regular garden chairs and the like, and also a cedar chest, and it's
holding up real good. I never had a problem with it splitting though. As I
said, I've just been tossing the idea around. He owes me, my deck does need
redoing, so what better payment than wood. But, I'm not real fond of having
to redo it again in a few years. That's why I was asking. BTW, the decking
is going to be 2 by thickness, and the privacy walls would be 3/4.
Tim,
Are you referring to Eastern White Cedar that comes from the northeast or
aromatic red cedar (juniper) that grows like a weed here in Kentucky?
I was referring to juniper when I said it splits easily. Its used for cedar
chests and closet linings. Keep bugs out and smells great.
Jim in Kentucky
"Tim Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My deck is cedar and looks like new. We wash it every spring with
>> bleach, soap and water in equal volumes. Here in Maine, Eastern White
>> Cedar is $1.00 per bf rough. Our decking is 2 inch and I would not
>> trade it for any other material.
>>
> Dave, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of it would you? I've looked
> everywhere and can't find one made out of it. The way I figure, if it
> holds up using it as fence posts, it would surely stand up to a seldom
> used deck. And I believe Maine has a little more harsh winters than
> Kentucky.
>
ed_h wrote:
> CyBrShRk wrote:
>
>>Pat Barber wrote:
>>
>>>IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
>>>runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
>>>
>>>http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
>>>
>>>It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
>>
>>How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled
>>with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?
>
>
> I've ordered significant quantities from them twice, and was well
> satisfied both times. They are helpful on the phone, too.
>
Agreed. The operation is run by Rob Pelc who used to post to this news
group a few years ago. "IpeDepot" is part of "Advantage Trim & Lumber
Co." located a few miles from my home. I buy most of my lumber from them.
See Advantage's tour page for an idea of the scope of their operation:
http://www.advantagelumber.com/
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vF8yg.13578$lq2.4416@trndny03...
>
> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.
>>
>> IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
>> runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
>
>
> Two years ago I bought mahogany and it was 30¢ a linear foot cheaper than
> ipe. $1.89 versus $2.19. I'm sure both are higher today.
>
Just a thought, but has anybody ever done or seen a deck made out of the
Eastern cedar? The red/white good smelling fence post cedar?
"CyBrShRk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
>>
>> It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
>
> How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled
> with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?
>
Jest because he kant spel good duznt mean he has bad stuf. Sumtime peeple
put too much emfisis on educashun, knot reel jobs. Dont be a prejoodished
snob.
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I just googled and found your posting. The wood looks kind of like the
> color
> of redwood. I have seen ipe decks and they are grey (with age). Does ipe
> look like that in your pictures when it is new or did you apply some kind
> of finish? Your project looks great by the way!
There's a good deal of color variation in ipe. I have some cabinet grade
Argentinian ipe whose appearance is almost indistinguishable from black
walnut--in fact it is sometimes sold as "Brazilian Walnut".
> "Tom Banes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:15:08 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>What advice can you give me?
>>
>>
>> I posted a note on an IPE deck earlier this year "IPE DEck Finished"
>> with a link to pics.
>>
>> It's great stuff if a bit expensive.
>>
>> Regards.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 15:50:13 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"CyBrShRk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
>>>
>>> It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
>>
>> How dependable is this company? Their website is badly designed riddled
>> with bad spelling, etc. Is this one guy running it from his garage?
>>
>
>Jest because he kant spel good duznt mean he has bad stuf. Sumtime peeple
>put too much emfisis on educashun, knot reel jobs. Dont be a prejoodished
>snob.
>
HA! lol...:)
In article <[email protected]>,
Tim Taylor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:vF8yg.13578$lq2.4416@trndny03...
>>
>> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.
>>>
>>> IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
>>> runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
>>
>>
>> Two years ago I bought mahogany and it was 30¢ a linear foot cheaper than
>> ipe. $1.89 versus $2.19. I'm sure both are higher today.
>>
>Just a thought, but has anybody ever done or seen a deck made out of the
>Eastern cedar? The red/white good smelling fence post cedar?
>
>
I haven't but I will offer that IME PT fence posts (These are the
old CCA variety) set directly in the ground will last through at least
3 sets of cedar pickets.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:15:08 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What advice can you give me?
I posted a note on an IPE deck earlier this year "IPE DEck Finished"
with a link to pics.
It's great stuff if a bit expensive.
Regards.
IPE... it ages very well and will last a VERY long time.
It is tough on cutting tools will require several blades
and bits.
It costs more than SYP and may be hard to fine depending
on your location.
PT SYP is still the cheapest and most durable for the money.
I looked at composites and after comparing (1) board at
$18.95 vs 5.95 for PT SYP, I had a change of heart. That
is very significant when you start using 50-60 boards just
for the top.
If you can find it, I would use KD pressure treated pine.
I also used a under the board mounting system(Deck Master)
and that improved the looks 200%.
Cedar is waaay too soft for a deck board.
Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.
IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
http://www.ipedepot.com/picelist01.htm
It should not take you long to do the square foot math.
Dick Snyder wrote:
> I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
> people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
> here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
>
> We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
> that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time to
> tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated lumber
> but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of the
> composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
> treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
>
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 20:04:25 -0400, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just googled and found your posting. The wood looks kind of like the color
>of redwood. I have seen ipe decks and they are grey (with age). Does ipe
>look like that in your pictures when it is new or did you apply some kind of
>finish? Your project looks great by the way!
Sorry for late response - I've been on the road.
I hit it with a coat of Messimers after the buildout. Lots of vendors
reccommend you oil it at least once, then let it grey out if you don't
want to oil it every year.
Regards.
"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My deck is cedar and looks like new. We wash it every spring with bleach,
> soap and water in equal volumes. Here in Maine, Eastern White Cedar is
> $1.00 per bf rough. Our decking is 2 inch and I would not trade it for
> any other material.
>
Dave, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of it would you? I've looked
everywhere and can't find one made out of it. The way I figure, if it holds
up using it as fence posts, it would surely stand up to a seldom used deck.
And I believe Maine has a little more harsh winters than Kentucky.
"Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I made fence pickets from it. It splits too easily and
> has lots of knots. Its also hard to get lengths and widths
> suitable to cover very much deck.
Well, I was just wondering. I got a buddy that has a 300' old hog barn full
of 5, 6, 7, and 8 quarter stuff, in lengths 10' to 20' or so. It'd be pretty
I think, and I do need to replace my decking. Again, just curious.
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Mahogany will take your breath when you find out the cost.
>
> IPE is your cheapest "exotic" and it would appear that it
> runs "about" $2.30 - 2.60 per LF which is $26 for a 10' board.
Two years ago I bought mahogany and it was 30¢ a linear foot cheaper than
ipe. $1.89 versus $2.19. I'm sure both are higher today.
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I don't know if this is the right newsgroup to ask this question of but
>people here have been so helpful and knowledgable I thought I would start
>here. If you have another suggestion, please let me know.
>
> We have a grandchild on the way and an aging pressure treated lumber deck
> that would be hard on the knees of a crawling infant so this is the time
> to tackle this project. I am definitely not going with pressure treated
> lumber but am considering ipe (aka ironwood), mahogany, cedar, or one of
> the composites. I would prefer to let the wood age to a grey rather than
> treating it every year or two if possible. What advice can you give me?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
Ipe. It will grey and will last for 50 years untreated. Ipe is also sold
as decking material in 5/4 thicknesses and rounded on the edges.