My brother gave me an old '70s desk that he made then and I want to put to
use, but the top is not only beat to heck, it's not a style I like.
I've seen two methods to remove the masonite talked about: with a clothes
iron, heat each piece and little by little lift it up, or just plain chisel
away at it until it's all gone. This tells me that the glue is heat
activated, I'm thinking.
Anyone know of another way? Also, is this going to be as big a job as it
sounds? I'm not looking to spends weeks at this.
Also, while the replacement of the material doesn't sound too daunting, do I
have to get the wood surface under the masonite clean down to bare wood, or
does it matter. Talking about the old glue here. In other words, how clean
does the surface have to be so that my new top will adhere properly?
--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."
regards,
Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
"Buck Frobisher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for the suggestions, guys. OK, so if the best way to go is a new
> top over the old, there is one thing more I need to ask.
>
> One of the top corners of the old masonite has come unglued, and is
> missing an irregularly-shaped piece roughly 1" x 2". Do I just square out
> the chip, glue a new piece in there and then go re-cover the whole top and
> edges? Sounds too simple to be true...
>
Sound doable. A sharp chisel and a hammer should do it.
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. OK, so if the best way to go is a new top
over the old, there is one thing more I need to ask.
One of the top corners of the old masonite has come unglued, and is missing
an irregularly-shaped piece roughly 1" x 2". Do I just square out the chip,
glue a new piece in there and then go re-cover the whole top and edges?
Sounds too simple to be true...
Thanks again,
Frank
In article <[email protected]>, Buck Frobisher
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Anyone know of another way? Also, is this going to be as big a job as it
> sounds? I'm not looking to spends weeks at this.
Can't you just put a new layer over top?
--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 14:42:46 -0500, Buck Frobisher <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions, guys. OK, so if the best way to go is a new top
> over the old, there is one thing more I need to ask.
I think that'll be more sanity-saving for you.
> One of the top corners of the old masonite has come unglued, and is missing
> an irregularly-shaped piece roughly 1" x 2". Do I just square out the chip,
> glue a new piece in there and then go re-cover the whole top and edges?
Yes, I'd treat it like an inlaid hinge or similar; clean it out to
a constant depth to the right shape, and fill it in with the repair
material. Good router practice for working with templates if nothing
else.
Dave Hinz
In article <[email protected]>,
"Buck Frobisher" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My brother gave me an old '70s desk that he made then and I want to put to
> use, but the top is not only beat to heck, it's not a style I like.
>
> I've seen two methods to remove the masonite talked about: with a clothes
> iron, heat each piece and little by little lift it up, or just plain chisel
> away at it until it's all gone. This tells me that the glue is heat
> activated, I'm thinking.
>
> Anyone know of another way? Also, is this going to be as big a job as it
> sounds? I'm not looking to spends weeks at this.
>
> Also, while the replacement of the material doesn't sound too daunting, do I
> have to get the wood surface under the masonite clean down to bare wood, or
> does it matter. Talking about the old glue here. In other words, how clean
> does the surface have to be so that my new top will adhere properly?
As already suggested...put on another top. I can't be worth fighting
dead contact cement.
I you HAVE to clean it...laquer thinner will cut contact cement.
Use a well ventilated area, remove all spark and open flame and don't
overlook your furnace pilot light if it has one.
I don't envy you.
0¿0
Rob
In article <180220051111288023%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca>,
Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Buck Frobisher
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know of another way? Also, is this going to be as big a job as it
> > sounds? I'm not looking to spends weeks at this.
>
> Can't you just put a new layer over top?
If laminate is applied properly, it will telegraph all imperfections
under it. The GP (thicker) laminate isn't as bad, but the PF stuff will
show brush strokes from applying contact cement.
What I have done, with some success, is to fill all the holes with Bondo
and belt-sand the whole mess. That does take some practice (and an
excellent belt-sander) to use a belt-sander on a flat surface without
gouging. If you belt-sand through the laminate into the old contact
cement, you're screwed. Use a 80 or a 100 grit. Wear a mask.
One trick for belt-sanding which works nicely......draw rough lines,
like a grid with a magic marker or carpenters' pencil all over the area
to be sanded and watch the lines disappear as you sand.
YMMV
0¿0
Rob