In article <[email protected]>, Upscale
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> > Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
> > works about 90% of the time for me.
>
> Question: How do you remove a broken drill bit for those times that it
> doesn't work? Just as easy to snap a drill bit off with a pair of vise grips
> as it is with a drill chuck.
Grip it as close to the workpiece as possible, with the pliers
perpendicular to the bit. Grip very firmly, and rotate the bit slowly
back and forth.
Upscale wrote:
>
> My computer died so I've been busy rebuilding, recovering and
> installing Windows 7. Then I bought a Festool TS55 plunge saw, a
> CT22 vacuum and a Domino. They've led me to spend quite a deal of
> time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
> woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
> or political discussion in sight. I think the fact that it's a
> Festool owned and operated site has much to do with the pleasant
> behaviour.
"nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 9/11/2010 7:35 AM, Leon wrote:
> "Puckdropper"<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
>> Other
>> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing
>> a
>> jigsaw don't wait.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>> --
>> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>
> That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that is
> the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature is
> much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
> often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two. Good
> find!
Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
first.
But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade
> and
> won
>> the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with
>> out the saw attached to it.
>
> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On
> some of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar,
> I often drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood.
> Occasionally, the wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's
> hell to get the bit out of the wood without snapping it off.
>
>
Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
works about 90% of the time for me.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
"Upscale" wrote:
> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On
> some of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of
> cedar, I often drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood.
> Occasionally, the wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's
> hell to get the bit out of the wood without snapping it off.
----------------------------------
A pin vise should solve your problem, they are specifically designed
for such an application.
Lew
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message news:
>> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
>> works about 90% of the time for me.
>
> Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill
> down on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical
> is difficult to say the least. One little fraction of wavering with
> the drill snaps the bit off. Don't know if that's ever happened to
> you, but it's happened to me more than once. Can't think of a faster
> way to blemish a project than trying to retract a tiny drill bit from
> a piece of wood.
>
>
I can't say I've run in to that problem. Most my woodworking holes are
of the 3/16-1/8" minimum variety, and the model railroading holes are
usually done with a pin vise.
When I do break a 3/16" bit, usually the procedure is to grab vice grips
or the like and just twist and pull it out. If I'm lucky, I can get the
chuck back over the remaining part of the bit and then it's easy.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Stuart <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> That figures.
>
> I hate "keyless" chucks you can never get then as tight as a proper
> keyed chuck. Worst invention ever.
>
I've found the keyless chucks on the better quality drills to be more
than adequate. You don't need to deform the drill bit, just hold it
very securely.
Cheap keyless chucks aren't worth the time.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
In article <[email protected]>,
Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mark M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
> > you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open
> > chuck over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the
> > left to close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor
> > wiggles will loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
> It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the
> drill's heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch
> and the drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end
> sharpened sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one
> out.
That figures.
I hate "keyless" chucks you can never get then as tight as a proper keyed
chuck. Worst invention ever.
On Sep 18, 1:42=A0pm, Andrew Barss <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> : What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
> : is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
> : when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
> : which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
> : Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
>
> Amazon sells several.
>
> Here's a good one:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-725405-Keyless-Conversion-Drivers/dp/B0...
>
> I also have the Makita, which works well, but the Hitachi seems smoother.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-1-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B000O3I5GY/ref...
>
> -- Andy Barss
Thank you kindly, sir.
Seriously. MUCH appreciated.
On Sep 14, 10:13=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Stuart <[email protected]> wrote innews:[email protected].=
uk:
>
>
>
> > That figures.
>
> > I hate "keyless" chucks you can never get then as tight as a proper
> > keyed chuck. Worst invention ever.
>
> I've found the keyless chucks on the better quality drills to be more
> than adequate. =A0You don't need to deform the drill bit, just hold it
> very securely.
>
> Cheap keyless chucks aren't worth the time.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
You said a mouthful. A quality keyless chuck is more that adequate. A
piss-poor one, and there are many, totally suck canal water and I
would much prefer a keyed chuck in that case. The keyless on my
Milwaukee almost does deform the bit, the one on my Makita, not so
much.
What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
On Sep 13, 1:02=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> =A0thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade a=
nd
> won
>
> > the tug of war. =A0It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with o=
ut
> > the saw attached to it.
>
> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some =
of
> the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often dr=
ill
> a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the wood pu=
lls
> the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit out of the wo=
od
> without snapping it off.
Where tf have you been, you old warhorse, you? Brooks & Dumb have been
relatively quiet around these parts, so you didn't miss much. <EG>
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message news:
>> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
>> works about 90% of the time for me.
>
> Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill down
> on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical is
> difficult to say the least. One little fraction of wavering with the drill
> snaps the bit off. Don't know if that's ever happened to you, but it's
> happened to me more than once. Can't think of a faster way to blemish a
> project than trying to retract a tiny drill bit from a piece of wood.
Instead of using a drill bit, try grinding the head off of a nail, then
sharpen the point on two sides, opposite each other.
You pretty much can't break it, they are cheap and they work well for a
pilot hole.
--
Jim in NC
On Sep 14, 9:00=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Upscale wrote:
>
> > My computer died so I've been busy rebuilding, recovering and
> > installing Windows 7. Then I =A0bought a Festool TS55 plunge saw, a
> > CT22 vacuum and a Domino. They've led me to spend quite a deal of
> > time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
> > woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
> > or political discussion in sight. I think the fact that it's a
> > Festool owned and operated site has much to do with the pleasant
> > behaviour.
>
> "nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...
>
It fucking well is.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
=3D0)
Upscale wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
>>> woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an
>>> argument or political discussion in sight.
>
>> "nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...
>
> Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it
> fulfilled its function as far as I'm concerned.
> However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a
> clue what it means, so your usage of it failed miserably. :)
Damn - I thought is was. Right there in the definition of witty and clever.
We must be using different dictionaries...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mark M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
> you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
> over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
> close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
> loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.
On Sep 14, 6:34=A0am, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade an=
d
> > won
> >> the tug of war. =A0It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with =
out
> >> the saw attached to it.
>
> > I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On som=
e
> > of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I oft=
en
> > drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the
> > wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit =
out
> > of the wood without snapping it off.
>
> That's because the flutes get packed with shavings and jam the drill in t=
he
> hole. While drilling, pull it out of the hole periodically to clear the
> shavings.
AKA peck drilling. Keeps thing cooler as well. Drilling in acrylics
teaches one quickly to keep clearing the bit, because if a small bit
jams in a material like Corian, it ain't coming out.
In article <[email protected]>,
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote:
>Upscale wrote:
>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
>>>> woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an
>>>> argument or political discussion in sight.
>>
>>> "nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...
>>
>> Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it
>> fulfilled its function as far as I'm concerned.
>> However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a
>> clue what it means, so your usage of it failed miserably. :)
>
>Damn - I thought is was. Right there in the definition of witty and clever.
Yeah, _you_ think so. Others have concluded you are half right.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/11/2010 7:35 AM, Leon wrote:
>> "Puckdropper"<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
>>> Other
>>> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about
>>> purchasing
>>> a
>>> jigsaw don't wait.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>> --
>>> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
>>
>> That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that
>> is
>> the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature
>> is
>> much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
>> often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two.
>> Good
>> find!
>
> Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
> first.
>
> But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
> eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
LOL, That sounded a lot like Red Green.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e54cf533-fedd-4676-bb29-7732ce3cbb70@f26g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 11, 7:51 am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
> first.
>
> But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
> eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
"the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
machine!
But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
those damn blades in the thing.
Excellent tool, though.
Robert
One of the absolutely worst jig saws I read about and had first hand
experience changing blades on was the DeWalts from 8~10 years ago. You
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and won
the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out the
saw attached to it.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
> works about 90% of the time for me.
Question: How do you remove a broken drill bit for those times that it
doesn't work? Just as easy to snap a drill bit off with a pair of vise grips
as it is with a drill chuck.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message news:
> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
> works about 90% of the time for me.
Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill down
on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical is difficult
to say the least. One little fraction of wavering with the drill snaps the
bit off. Don't know if that's ever happened to you, but it's happened to me
more than once. Can't think of a faster way to blemish a project than trying
to retract a tiny drill bit from a piece of wood.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and
won
> the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out
> the saw attached to it.
I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some of
the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often drill
a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the wood pulls
the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit out of the wood
without snapping it off.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and
> won
>> the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out
>> the saw attached to it.
>
> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some
> of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often
> drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the
> wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit out
> of the wood without snapping it off.
>
That's because the flutes get packed with shavings and jam the drill in the
hole. While drilling, pull it out of the hole periodically to clear the
shavings.
"Mark M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
> you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
> over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
> close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
> loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.
"Mark M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
> you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
> over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
> close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
> loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
On Sep 13, 1:02 pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Where tf have you been, you old warhorse, you? Brooks & Dumb have been
> relatively quiet around these parts, so you didn't miss much. <EG>
My computer died so I've been busy rebuilding, recovering and installing
Windows 7. Then I bought a Festool TS55 plunge saw, a CT22 vacuum and a
Domino. They've led me to spend quite a deal of time in the Festool Owners
Group. Mucho information there on many woodworking topics and tools (not
just Festool) with nary an argument or political discussion in sight. I
think the fact that it's a Festool owned and operated site has much to do
with the pleasant behaviour.
I've been looking in here on occasion, but as you said, B & D have been
relatively quiet so I haven't been inclinded to say much. :)
On Sep 11, 7:51=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
> first.
>
> But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
> eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
"the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
machine!
But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
those damn blades in the thing.
Excellent tool, though.
Robert
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
> Other
> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing
> a
> jigsaw don't wait.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
That is a good price the cheapest I have seen it is around $99. But that is
the "combination lock" model. A great saw but the blade change feature is
much more desirable on the later models. Yeah you don't change blades
often... till you use one that changing a blade takes a second or two. Good
find!
On 9/10/10 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight. Other
> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing a
> jigsaw don't wait.
>
> Puckdropper
Oooooo, and I'm in the market.
My B&D is great as cutting jigsaw puzzles, weather you're trying to or
not.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/10/2010 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight. Other
> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about purchasing a
> jigsaw don't wait.
>
> Puckdropper
I have that model, and it's a fine little machine. That's a smokin' good deal.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 9/11/2010 12:11 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
> On 9/10/2010 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
>> Other
>> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about
>> purchasing a
>> jigsaw don't wait.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> I have that model, and it's a fine little machine. That's a smokin' good
> deal.
If they've got stock--none of the Lowes near me is showing stock.
>
J. Clarke wrote:
> On 9/11/2010 12:11 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
>> On 9/10/2010 9:55 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>> My local Lowes had the Bosch 1587 jigsaw marked down to $65 tonight.
>>> Other
>>> Lowes may be doing the same thing, so if you're thinking about
>>> purchasing a
>>> jigsaw don't wait.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>
>> I have that model, and it's a fine little machine. That's a smokin' good
>> deal.
>
> If they've got stock--none of the Lowes near me is showing stock.
Me too--Indianapolis area.
>>
>
On 9/11/2010 12:51 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sep 11, 7:51 am, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
>> first.
>>
>> But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
>> eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
>
> I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
> took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
> "the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
> machine!
>
> But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
> up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
> those damn blades in the thing.
>
> Excellent tool, though.
Beats having to hunt for the long narrow screwdriver for the older ones
though.
On 9/13/2010 10:10 AM, Leon wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:e54cf533-fedd-4676-bb29-7732ce3cbb70@f26g2000vbm.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 11, 7:51 am, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Every time I need to change a blade on my 1587 I have to find the manual
>> first.
>>
>> But that is an excellent price, it is a helluva machine, and you _can_
>> eventually learn how to change the blade ... I think?
>
> I about fell out of my chair laughing when I read that. It honestly
> took me a few years of using ONLY that jigsaw to get where I remember
> "the combination". And it has the instructions printed on the
> machine!
>
> But for the longest time, if I didn't have my readers with me, I was
> up against it. I twisted, turned, counted, fussed and cussed getting
> those damn blades in the thing.
>
> Excellent tool, though.
>
> Robert
>
> One of the absolutely worst jig saws I read about and had first hand
> experience changing blades on was the DeWalts from 8~10 years ago. You
> thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade and won
> the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with out the
> saw attached to it.
They all beat my Dad's first one. It was a "McGraw-Edison" that he got
at the Navy Exchange for something like 12 bucks. Had an allen-head set
screw to hold the blade. Sock it down as hard as you could (and that
wasn't very hard--put much force on it and the damned screw cracked) and
half the time the blade fell out before it started to cut.
Then there was the Wen reciprocating saw (imagine a Sawzall powered by a
three-legged gerbil) that also used a set screw, albeit a little bit
bigger one.
He used to build docks with those things.
I got him a Sawzall for Christmas one year. He'd always thought that
they were overpriced for what they delivered, until he used it and the
blade stayed in and it didn't bog down on anything.
On 9/13/2010 1:59 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> "Upscale"<[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> "Leon"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> thought the blade was in there tight till the wood pinched the blade
>> and
>> won
>>> the tug of war. It was hell pulling the blade out of the kerf with
>>> out the saw attached to it.
>>
>> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On
>> some of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar,
>> I often drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood.
>> Occasionally, the wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's
>> hell to get the bit out of the wood without snapping it off.
>>
>>
>
> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
> works about 90% of the time for me.
Or clamp the impact chuck down on it and take it out with the impact driver.
On 9/13/10 3:32 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Upscale" wrote:
>
>> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On
>> some of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of
>> cedar, I often drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood.
>> Occasionally, the wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's
>> hell to get the bit out of the wood without snapping it off.
> ----------------------------------
> A pin vise should solve your problem, they are specifically designed
> for such an application.
>
> Lew
>
I worked with a carpenter who would use finish nails for pilot holes
like that.
He would chuck em up by the sharp end, then snip off the head, straight,
leaving a barb on the end. Because nails are "soft" they would never
snap when heated up, plus they would bend a lot more and still twist.
He never had to buy pilot bits either. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Upscale" wrote:
>
>> I hate doing that with drill bits ~ especially small drill bits. On some
>> of the garden furniture projects I've been building out of cedar, I often
>> drill a pilot hole so the nails don't split the wood. Occasionally, the
>> wood pulls the drill bit out of the drill and it's hell to get the bit
>> out of the wood without snapping it off.
> ----------------------------------
> A pin vise should solve your problem, they are specifically designed for
> such an application.
Or a Dremel Moto-Tool or similar.
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
: What I have been looking for, is a chuck, keyless or otherwise, which
: is mounted on a 1/4" hex shaft so I can pop it in my impact driver
: when I need a quick pilot hole of an odd size..... besides, the drills
: which come mounted in a 1/4" hex shank, all seem to suck.
: Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
Amazon sells several.
Here's a good one:
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-725405-Keyless-Conversion-Drivers/dp/B001717COS/ref=sr_1_2?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284831599&sr=8-2
I also have the Makita, which works well, but the Hitachi seems smoother.
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-1-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B000O3I5GY/ref=sr_1_3?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284831599&sr=8-3
-- Andy Barss
"Mark M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like
> you're describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck
> over the bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to
> close the chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will
> loosen the rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
It's a keyless chuck in a cordless drill. The problem is that the drill's
heaviest part is off center ( the battery) so one little flinch and the
drill bit breaks off. The suggestion to use a nail with the end sharpened
sounds like a decent solution so I'll have to try that one out.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message news:
>> Don't you put the drill back on the bit and tighten it back down? It
>> works about 90% of the time for me.
>
> Of course, but it's fraught with problems. Tightening a 5 pound drill down
> on a 1/16" drill bit while keeping the drill perfectly vertical is
> difficult to say the least.
I use my hand and not a key to tighten the chuck. On occasions like you're
describing, I've always been successful in placing the open chuck over the
bit, using my right hand to trigger the motor and the left to close the
chuck on the bit. Once it engages, a couple minor wiggles will loosen the
rotating bit enough to ease its removal.
Mark
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> time in the Festool Owners Group. Mucho information there on many
>> woodworking topics and tools (not just Festool) with nary an argument
>> or political discussion in sight.
> "nary" is not a word in the Canadian language...
Well, I used it, you understood its meaning completely so it fulfilled its
function as far as I'm concerned.
However, "Mike Marlow" is not in the dictionary and I don't have a clue what
it means, so your usage of it failed miserably. :)