for me 3/4" pipe clamps using black pipe can not be beat for sheer clamping
power
well i suppose there are clamps meant for welding that are equal or better
but pipe clamps are common in woodworking
consistent sturdy durable cheap powerful
one annoyance is if they build up with glue but that is more operator
error
i usually focus on the project and forget about the clamps when i am
unclamping
then i am reminded to scrape off the glue next time i use them
not having used the bar clamps i do not know how the glue effects the
usability
On 11/6/2015 12:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 11:40:19 -0600
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Rub wax or parifin on the pipes. That will prevent the glue from
>> bonding quite so tightly.
>
> will try this out once i scrape off all the glue
>
>> Oddly glue on Cabinet Master clamps is not a big issue and it does
>> come of pretty easily. The Bessey K-Bodies are renown for having
>> problems with glue stick on the bars. So much so that the new style
>> Bessey K-body clamps actually come with stand off pads to prevent the
>> project from coming indirect contact with the bars. This either
>> prevents glue from coming in direct contact with the bar at the joint
>> or lets you easily wipe the glue off before it sets.
>
> was wondering about the glue on those kbody
>
> wow the cabinet master is not cheap
> definitely out of my range too
All of them, K body style, seem to be pretty proud of their products.
The good news is that the old name brands have a life time warranty and
do hold up for years on end. But then I would expect nothing less for
clamps like this.
>
> clamps are near to being a commodity i think
> funny thing is i think there is still room for new competition
I think Jet and Irwin were thinking that, but they too are high priced.
I'm wondering why Bessey had lowered prices on some of their clamps so
much. Even the pipe clamps.
>
> but maybe prices will go lower with current competitors
Hope so but only if the quality does not suffer. IIRC Bessey are German
and Cabinet Masters are USA. Others are from where most every thing
else comes from.
On 11/6/2015 12:55 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> for me 3/4" pipe clamps using black pipe can not be beat for sheer
>> clamping power
>
> You might be surprised at how much clamping force can
> be exerted by a pair of wedges (*).
>
> It's also worth noting that, in woodworking at least,
> there's such a thing as too much clamping pressure.
What would be the indicator of too much pressure?
Not glue starvation, a thin joint is a strong joint.
Maybe damaging the surface.
In article <pWd%[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> I've cracked the pipe holder but not the pipe.
> Martin
>
> On 11/6/2015 5:49 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> > On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 15:24:11 -0600
> > Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> >
> >> My clamps have broken before the wood cracked. LOL
> >
> > i am not sure i could crank my pipe clamps down hard enough to break them
> > at least not by hand
> >
> > even so the wood would splinter way before the pipe clamp broke
Depends on the wood. Balsa, sure. Lignum vitae, not so much.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> for me 3/4" pipe clamps using black pipe can not be beat for sheer
> clamping power
You might be surprised at how much clamping force can
be exerted by a pair of wedges (*).
It's also worth noting that, in woodworking at least,
there's such a thing as too much clamping pressure.
If you really have to bear down on a clamp to get a
joint together, there's something wrong with how it's
cut. That's the value of doing a dry run with the
clamps, you can fix stuff that doesn't come together
right before it's covered with sticky glue.
(* technically the wedges and the screw clamp are the
same thing, both variations on the inclined plane)
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 11/6/2015 12:55 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> It's also worth noting that, in woodworking at least,
>> there's such a thing as too much clamping pressure.
>
> What would be the indicator of too much pressure?
>
> Not glue starvation, a thin joint is a strong joint.
> Maybe damaging the surface.
I think the most common would be a panel that seperates
or cracks, because the clamps were used to force two
boards together that hadn't been jointed straight
enough.
They are all things that a careful worker would find
and fix during a dry run, but we all know that guy who
just forces things together and hopes for the best.
(I do recall argueing, probably 20 years ago, that you
couldn't cause glue starvation by clamping. At that
time opinion on rec.ww leaned the other way.)
John
On 11/6/2015 11:24 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> for me 3/4" pipe clamps using black pipe can not be beat for sheer clamping
> power
>
Now there you go! Totally understandable and a reasonable explanation.
> well i suppose there are clamps meant for welding that are equal or better
> but pipe clamps are common in woodworking
>
> consistent sturdy durable cheap powerful
Absolutely, I still keep mine for those occasions that I run short on a
project.
>
> one annoyance is if they build up with glue but that is more operator
> error
> i usually focus on the project and forget about the clamps when i am
> unclamping
Rub wax or parifin on the pipes. That will prevent the glue from
bonding quite so tightly.
>
> then i am reminded to scrape off the glue next time i use them
>
> not having used the bar clamps i do not know how the glue effects the
> usability
Oddly glue on Cabinet Master clamps is not a big issue and it does come
of pretty easily. The Bessey K-Bodies are renown for having problems
with glue stick on the bars. So much so that the new style Bessey
K-body clamps actually come with stand off pads to prevent the project
from coming indirect contact with the bars. This either prevents glue
from coming in direct contact with the bar at the joint or lets you
easily wipe the glue off before it sets.
On 11/7/2015 10:28 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 11/6/2015 12:55 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>
>>> It's also worth noting that, in woodworking at least,
>>> there's such a thing as too much clamping pressure.
>>
>> What would be the indicator of too much pressure?
>>
>> Not glue starvation, a thin joint is a strong joint.
>> Maybe damaging the surface.
>
> I think the most common would be a panel that seperates
> or cracks, because the clamps were used to force two
> boards together that hadn't been jointed straight
> enough.
Well Yeah. LOL
>
> They are all things that a careful worker would find
> and fix during a dry run, but we all know that guy who
> just forces things together and hopes for the best.
I tend to make do with the materials I get. Plywood seems to be hit or
miss these days. A few years ago I had to clamp panels into submission.
;~) IIRC it was a 4', 3/4" thick panel that needed to fit into a
groove On a 4' piece of oak. The panel had so much bow I had to clamp a
straight edge to it so that it would be straight enough to go into the
groove. I don't worry too much about a bowed board as long as I can cut
it the correct length and it will lock into a straight edge at a 90
degree angle.
> (I do recall argueing, probably 20 years ago, that you
> couldn't cause glue starvation by clamping. At that
> time opinion on rec.ww leaned the other way.)
>
> John
>
YES! Glue starvation is a thing, It is when there is not enough glue
on the joint to begin with. But as you and I agree never because of
clamping too much.
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 14:39:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>On 11/6/2015 12:55 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> for me 3/4" pipe clamps using black pipe can not be beat for sheer
>>> clamping power
>>
>> You might be surprised at how much clamping force can
>> be exerted by a pair of wedges (*).
>>
>> It's also worth noting that, in woodworking at least,
>> there's such a thing as too much clamping pressure.
>
>What would be the indicator of too much pressure?
WOrkpiece shattered into toothpicks? ;-)
>
>Not glue starvation, a thin joint is a strong joint.
>Maybe damaging the surface.
How about warping?
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 11:40:19 -0600
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> Rub wax or parifin on the pipes. That will prevent the glue from
> bonding quite so tightly.
will try this out once i scrape off all the glue
> Oddly glue on Cabinet Master clamps is not a big issue and it does
> come of pretty easily. The Bessey K-Bodies are renown for having
> problems with glue stick on the bars. So much so that the new style
> Bessey K-body clamps actually come with stand off pads to prevent the
> project from coming indirect contact with the bars. This either
> prevents glue from coming in direct contact with the bar at the joint
> or lets you easily wipe the glue off before it sets.
was wondering about the glue on those kbody
wow the cabinet master is not cheap
definitely out of my range too
clamps are near to being a commodity i think
funny thing is i think there is still room for new competition
but maybe prices will go lower with current competitors
I've cracked the pipe holder but not the pipe.
Martin
On 11/6/2015 5:49 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 15:24:11 -0600
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> My clamps have broken before the wood cracked. LOL
>
> i am not sure i could crank my pipe clamps down hard enough to break them
> at least not by hand
>
> even so the wood would splinter way before the pipe clamp broke
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>