Back in my old machinist tool and die days, we used molyb to keep all the
metal parts happy, but we cut other materials and not wood. I was
considering a good (natural bee not paraffin) wax, but I do know the
detrimental affect wax has on wood. Anyone try an auto acrylic liquids or
Mop & Glow?
or are there other products out there to try?
Thanks, Jim H.
Thanks!
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tall Oak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:4PNLg.1926$1b3.1694@trndny03...
>> Thanks! It looks as if a little playing around will be needed. I'll try
>> the TopCote first on my router table, but it looks like trying a few
>> things to see what works best!
>
>
> You want to initially put down 2 heavy coats of TopCote and lighter ones
> periodically.
>
Thanks! It looks as if a little playing around will be needed. I'll try the
TopCote first on my router table, but it looks like trying a few things to
see what works best!
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tall Oak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:_JKLg.21234$242.3966@trndny06...
>> Back in my old machinist tool and die days, we used molyb to keep all the
>> metal parts happy, but we cut other materials and not wood. I was
>> considering a good (natural bee not paraffin) wax, but I do know the
>> detrimental affect wax has on wood. Anyone try an auto acrylic liquids or
>> Mop & Glow?
>>
>> or are there other products out there to try?
>>
>> Thanks, Jim H.
>>
>>
>>
>
> There are several products made specifically to protect TS tops. Bostich
> TopCote and Empire top Saver are two that come to mind. Wax works for
> some but does never has for me. Wax does not protect wood from standing
> water as the water eventually penetrates the wax in a matter of a few
> hours. Condensation over night will do the same.
>
I saw this product at the IWF in Atlanta and it looks
pretty good.
I have been a TopCote guy for a while but
TopCote will NOT remove rust.
This is going to be my next try.
http://www.woodtechtooling.com/Lubricant-TopSaver/TopSaver.html
Tall Oak wrote:
> Back in my old machinist tool and die days, we used molyb to keep all the
> metal parts happy, but we cut other materials and not wood. I was
> considering a good (natural bee not paraffin) wax, but I do know the
> detrimental affect wax has on wood. Anyone try an auto acrylic liquids or
> Mop & Glow?
>
> or are there other products out there to try?
>
> Thanks, Jim H.
>
>
>
It does look like I'll have to experiment myself, I'll try em all. TopCote
I'll even experiment with the Acrylic's. Since I do a lot of waxing I use
Butchers, It may be easier just to keep that on hand and use that. humidity
isn't a real problem and any condensation is really out of the question.
Right now I use a good gear grease and when not using it for a period of
time I just regrease it and wax paper and cover it loosely with a tarp. I'm
just getting tired of working that grease off when I need it. Now Molybendum
is really the best overall, just even messier then grease and once on it,
just doesn't come off. I still think for long term storage (usually over the
winter) nothing will beat a spritz of molyb then grease and wax paper, but
Wax
may work simplest on the daty to day just buffing it down isn't much of a
problem. I'll still try the acrylics and see how they hold up.
Thanks!
"BobS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:U%KLg.134433$LF4.90663@dukeread05...
>>> or are there other products out there to try?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Jim H.
>>>
>> I have used a product called Slipit for about five years. It come is
>> pump liquid, aerosol spray and a gel that can be applied with a brush. I
>> use the gel. It has the consistency of watered jello, goes on gooey but
>> wipes off in seconds. I usually apply every 1-2 months. It is a
>> silicon-free contact lubricant so it won't harm the wood but it does make
>> miter gages and fences smoother
>>
>> http://www.grizzly.com/products/G5562
>>
>>
>> RonB
>>
>
> Ron,
>
> You may remember the Slipit posts from a few years back where a number of
> us received a box full of Slipit products from the Slipit rep. I did a
> test using an old and dead 4" jointer I had. Top was divided into 3
> sections. Bare clean cast iron, Slipit and Johnson's paste wax. Jointer
> was left on cement floor in shop for about 3 months. Johnson's paste wax
> was the clear winner.
>
> I followed the link you posted and that is the first time I've seen a can
> that say's Table Sealant on it. In the past, Slipit never made any claims
> to rust prevention and they still don't. I can't find that same product
> on their site either so I sent an email tonight asking if they do have a
> rust preventative product. Slipit is wax based and at $10 per pint is
> some expensive wax that did not perform as well as plain old Johnson's
> wax.
>
> I use wax on all my cast iron and unless some water is spilled on them -
> no rust. I live in upstate NY so it's humid here in the summer and my
> shop is not conditioned. If you get condensation on your equipment, then
> wax is not a good solution. Slipit spray or gel may be convenient to
> use - it's not as efficient on cast iron as plain old wax. The other
> products on the market such as TopCote are a bit pricey at $15 per can.
> They last longer than wax but for me, wax works fine and it's a 1 minute
> chore to wipe down the iron with a cloth dipped in the wax. Next day,
> before using the tool, a quick buff makes for a nice smooth top.
>
> Bob S.
>
In article <_JKLg.21234$242.3966@trndny06>, [email protected] says...
>
> or are there other products out there to try?
>
Apparently the traditional rust-prevention remedy for the Japanese woodworker
is crysanthemum oil. Never tried it myself though.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
I'll check it out, Thanks
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:U%KLg.134433$LF4.90663@dukeread05...
>> or are there other products out there to try?
>>
>> Thanks, Jim H.
>>
> I have used a product called Slipit for about five years. It come is pump
> liquid, aerosol spray and a gel that can be applied with a brush. I use
> the gel. It has the consistency of watered jello, goes on gooey but wipes
> off in seconds. I usually apply every 1-2 months. It is a silicon-free
> contact lubricant so it won't harm the wood but it does make miter gages
> and fences smoother
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/G5562
>
>
> RonB
>
> or are there other products out there to try?
>
> Thanks, Jim H.
>
I have used a product called Slipit for about five years. It come is pump
liquid, aerosol spray and a gel that can be applied with a brush. I use the
gel. It has the consistency of watered jello, goes on gooey but wipes off
in seconds. I usually apply every 1-2 months. It is a silicon-free contact
lubricant so it won't harm the wood but it does make miter gages and fences
smoother
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G5562
RonB
My day's in Vietnam taught me well about moisture. Unpacking spare parts for
weapons, many WWII vintage. I was impressed that the grease and wax paper
thing worked as well as it had. Grease (auto) as messy as it is, goes on
easier and fills voids quickly, and wipes off easily with a little white
gas. If I was to store something today, for years. I'd have to say a coat of
molybendum, then grease and then wax paper.
When ready for business, I'll stick with the paste wax. It's something I
have on hand. But I will certainly test topcote and paste/acrylic wax's.
Thanks!
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RE: Subject
>
> I keep my table saw outside under a tarp.
>
> Had been using Johnsons Paste wax on cast iron table saw bed.
>
> Not the greatest protection.
>
> Had melted a 1/2 pound of bees wax in a coffee can, then poured in about
> 4-6 oz of boiled linseed oil and about 4-6 oz of turps.
>
> Worked great on a table I built from white oak.
>
> Decided to try it on saw table.
>
> Seems to do a better job than Johnsons.
>
> If you are going to store saw for the winter, I'd first wax the saw table
> with something like my bees wax concoction above, then cover that with
> waxed paper.
>
> Lew
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:U%KLg.134433$LF4.90663@dukeread05...
>> or are there other products out there to try?
>>
>> Thanks, Jim H.
>>
> I have used a product called Slipit for about five years. It come is pump
> liquid, aerosol spray and a gel that can be applied with a brush. I use
> the gel. It has the consistency of watered jello, goes on gooey but wipes
> off in seconds. I usually apply every 1-2 months. It is a silicon-free
> contact lubricant so it won't harm the wood but it does make miter gages
> and fences smoother
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/G5562
>
>
> RonB
>
Ron,
You may remember the Slipit posts from a few years back where a number of us
received a box full of Slipit products from the Slipit rep. I did a test
using an old and dead 4" jointer I had. Top was divided into 3 sections.
Bare clean cast iron, Slipit and Johnson's paste wax. Jointer was left on
cement floor in shop for about 3 months. Johnson's paste wax was the clear
winner.
I followed the link you posted and that is the first time I've seen a can
that say's Table Sealant on it. In the past, Slipit never made any claims
to rust prevention and they still don't. I can't find that same product on
their site either so I sent an email tonight asking if they do have a rust
preventative product. Slipit is wax based and at $10 per pint is some
expensive wax that did not perform as well as plain old Johnson's wax.
I use wax on all my cast iron and unless some water is spilled on them - no
rust. I live in upstate NY so it's humid here in the summer and my shop is
not conditioned. If you get condensation on your equipment, then wax is not
a good solution. Slipit spray or gel may be convenient to use - it's not as
efficient on cast iron as plain old wax. The other products on the market
such as TopCote are a bit pricey at $15 per can. They last longer than wax
but for me, wax works fine and it's a 1 minute chore to wipe down the iron
with a cloth dipped in the wax. Next day, before using the tool, a quick
buff makes for a nice smooth top.
Bob S.
"Tall Oak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4PNLg.1926$1b3.1694@trndny03...
> Thanks! It looks as if a little playing around will be needed. I'll try
> the TopCote first on my router table, but it looks like trying a few
> things to see what works best!
You want to initially put down 2 heavy coats of TopCote and lighter ones
periodically.
RE: Subject
I keep my table saw outside under a tarp.
Had been using Johnsons Paste wax on cast iron table saw bed.
Not the greatest protection.
Had melted a 1/2 pound of bees wax in a coffee can, then poured in
about 4-6 oz of boiled linseed oil and about 4-6 oz of turps.
Worked great on a table I built from white oak.
Decided to try it on saw table.
Seems to do a better job than Johnsons.
If you are going to store saw for the winter, I'd first wax the saw
table with something like my bees wax concoction above, then cover
that with waxed paper.
Lew
"Tall Oak" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_JKLg.21234$242.3966@trndny06...
> Back in my old machinist tool and die days, we used molyb to keep all the
> metal parts happy, but we cut other materials and not wood. I was
> considering a good (natural bee not paraffin) wax, but I do know the
> detrimental affect wax has on wood. Anyone try an auto acrylic liquids or
> Mop & Glow?
>
> or are there other products out there to try?
>
> Thanks, Jim H.
>
>
>
There are several products made specifically to protect TS tops. Bostich
TopCote and Empire top Saver are two that come to mind. Wax works for some
but does never has for me. Wax does not protect wood from standing water as
the water eventually penetrates the wax in a matter of a few hours.
Condensation over night will do the same.