Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes. The
reviews on it seem to be very good and at $498 it is in my price range.
Lowes seems to have the lowest price around on it.
I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as pros
and cons of this model before making the final purchase. I would prefer
one of the Delta X series Contractor Saws but $550.00 is my limit.
Thanks
George wrote:
>
> Please don't get a molding head. Routers are actually a bunch safer, in my
> opinion, not to mention more versatile. Somewhere, perhaps on the property
> still, is my molding head. Gave it to my wife to vanish after it tried to
> kill me one day, and never regretted it.
>
> I like the link belt on mine. Starts, stops, cuts - and the nickel still
> stands.
>
I agree about changing to the Fenner link belt, it does a great job.
I've also used a molding head for approx. 20 years without any problems.
Just don't understand why so many are afraid of them. Without walking
down to my shop & looking I'm going to guesstimate that I have 20-25
sets of knives for it. Don't get me wrong, I also have more than a
couple of routers as well and they see their share of use too.
If you get a dado blade make your own inserts, it's a piece of cake. I
made several zero clearance to allow for various common widths.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
Joseph Smith wrote:
>
> Did you make your inserts out of wood like that Canadian guy on DIY?
> Or did you use some other material?
> "Scott Brownell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > If you get a dado blade make your own inserts, it's a piece of cake. I
> > made several zero clearance to allow for various common widths.
> >
> > Scott
> > --
> > An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
> > up later, the damage remains.
I made them out of some scrap 3/4" Birch plywood that I had laying
around. Even gave all of them a coat of poly to make them look purty.
LOL. It's really easy to do. Also installed some allen head set screws
in them for leveling with the table. Add a tab at the rear to ensure
that the blade doesn't cause the rear of the insert to raise and you're
off & running.
______________________
___| <--top of insert
___________________|____<--rabbet recess for support tabs in table saw
top, do on all 4 sides
|________| <--tab to hold down rear of insert (I just
used some 1/4" ply scrap)
I make these things for both the dado blade and the molding head. Be
sure to clamp the inserts down before raising the blade through them the
first time.
HTH,
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
I've got the equivalent to the 46-444, but I think most of the new stands
will still accept what I'm using.
www.ai-supply.com item W1004 or W1005 in your search. Other people sell
'em too, and they put gravity on your side. Nine or ten bucks, depending.
Now remember that you can help your cause by enclosing a bit of the back -
Google'll give you lots of suggestions. Me for masonite and magnets. Oh
yes, if you use "zero clearance" inserts, your dust collection will be
diminished, as a greater percentage will stay above the table.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Neither of them will take a dust collector, which seems a bit odd;
> wouldn't
> > a saw be about the first thing to put a DC on?
> >
>
> Delta makes a duct collection accessory, but you hardly ever see in listed
> anywhere. It is a tapered pan with 4" outlet that goes under the saw. It
> took about 40 minutes to add it after the fact, but would take 5 minutes
> while assembling the saw initially. IIRC, it was $25
>
> I made a cover for the back that goes under the motor and up two sides of
> it. . It gets at least 95% of the dust.
> Ed
>
>
Please don't get a molding head. Routers are actually a bunch safer, in my
opinion, not to mention more versatile. Somewhere, perhaps on the property
still, is my molding head. Gave it to my wife to vanish after it tried to
kill me one day, and never regretted it.
I like the link belt on mine. Starts, stops, cuts - and the nickel still
stands.
"Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
It runs very smooth with just a slight vibration that
> I
> think can get rid of by replacing Delta's belt with a higher quality one.
> It is a
> very quiet saw and feels like it has all the power I'll need (since I
don't
> woodwork
> for a living).
> Now I must convince the wife to let me get a new dado set and dado insert.
> I
> might even try to get the moulder head and insert and give it a whirl. I
> never
> formed moulding on a table saw before and my curiosity is peaked.
Did you make your inserts out of wood like that Canadian guy on DIY?
Or did you use some other material?
"Scott Brownell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
> >
> > Please don't get a molding head. Routers are actually a bunch safer, in
my
> > opinion, not to mention more versatile. Somewhere, perhaps on the
property
> > still, is my molding head. Gave it to my wife to vanish after it tried
to
> > kill me one day, and never regretted it.
> >
> > I like the link belt on mine. Starts, stops, cuts - and the nickel
still
> > stands.
> >
>
> I agree about changing to the Fenner link belt, it does a great job.
>
> I've also used a molding head for approx. 20 years without any problems.
> Just don't understand why so many are afraid of them. Without walking
> down to my shop & looking I'm going to guesstimate that I have 20-25
> sets of knives for it. Don't get me wrong, I also have more than a
> couple of routers as well and they see their share of use too.
>
> If you get a dado blade make your own inserts, it's a piece of cake. I
> made several zero clearance to allow for various common widths.
>
> Scott
> --
> An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
> up later, the damage remains.
Thanks to all the responses and suggestions. I weighed my options, money,
and how far I can push the wife and settled on the 36-650. I have it now
and it
is assembled, but I'm still checking the alignments. The fence was spot on
out
of the box as far as I can tell. It lined up perfectly the the miter groove
over
numerous tries. Did have to adjust the indicator wondow thingme a little
for a
dead-on-zero reading. It runs very smooth with just a slight vibration that
I
think can get rid of by replacing Delta's belt with a higher quality one.
It is a
very quiet saw and feels like it has all the power I'll need (since I don't
woodwork
for a living).
Now I must convince the wife to let me get a new dado set and dado insert.
I
might even try to get the moulder head and insert and give it a whirl. I
never
formed moulding on a table saw before and my curiosity is peaked. Thanks
once
again for your responses.
Joey
Tue, Nov 4, 2003, 2:56am (EST+5) [email protected] (Joseph=A0Smith)
says:
<snip> I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS. <snip>
OK, I've talked it over with the Woodworking Gods, and you can send
it along to me, and they'll give you credit for a sacrifice to them. No
rush, but if it doesn't show up before the new year, you can count on an
anti-blessing.
JOAT
My aim is to get through life peacefully, with as little interferrnce
from human beings as possible.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 3 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Thanks for info! Still waiting on my dado set
to come in. Had to go economical on it too.
But Eagle-America had the Frued 7 pc. Pro
Dado Set on sale for $65.00. That is about
$30.00 Dollars cheaper than any store around here.
Thank once again.
Joey
> > > If you get a dado blade make your own inserts, it's a piece of cake. I
> > > made several zero clearance to allow for various common widths.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > --
> > > An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
> > > up later, the damage remains.
>
> I made them out of some scrap 3/4" Birch plywood that I had laying
> around. Even gave all of them a coat of poly to make them look purty.
> LOL. It's really easy to do. Also installed some allen head set screws
> in them for leveling with the table. Add a tab at the rear to ensure
> that the blade doesn't cause the rear of the insert to raise and you're
> off & running.
>
> ______________________
> ___| <--top of insert
> ___________________|____<--rabbet recess for support tabs in table saw
> top, do on all 4 sides
> |________| <--tab to hold down rear of insert (I just
> used some 1/4" ply scrap)
>
>
> I make these things for both the dado blade and the molding head. Be
> sure to clamp the inserts down before raising the blade through them the
> first time.
>
> HTH,
> Scott
> --
> An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
> up later, the damage remains.
get the 36-444 instead. It is made in the US. Better fence although not a
bies or unifence. Also it has the new stand.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
> > the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
> > I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes.
> > I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as pros
> > and cons of this model before making the final purchase.
>
> From what I can see, the differences can be upgraded later. This has
> stamped wings versus the cast iron and a table board. You can always make
a
> table board yourself.
>
> Major thing (IMO) is the fence. The X series has a better fence so make
> sure this one is going to do the job for you. While the floor model in
the
> store may not be a good setup, lock, move, lock the fence. Does it lock
> parallel to the miter slot every time? If you like the fence you will
like
> the saw. If not, keep saving.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Neither of them will take a dust collector, which seems a bit odd;
wouldn't
> a saw be about the first thing to put a DC on?
>
Delta makes a duct collection accessory, but you hardly ever see in listed
anywhere. It is a tapered pan with 4" outlet that goes under the saw. It
took about 40 minutes to add it after the fact, but would take 5 minutes
while assembling the saw initially. IIRC, it was $25
I made a cover for the back that goes under the motor and up two sides of
it. . It gets at least 95% of the dust.
Ed
Canadian 36-650C also has lifetime warranty .. I think. It's 700 - 800
Canadian dollars.
"Clint Neufeld" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ifPpb.289541$pl3.288075@pd7tw3no...
> If you're close to Canada, you could try getting a 36-650C. Only
available
> in Canada, but it comes with the cast iron wings as standard issue. Not
> sure what your warranty situation would be, however.
>
> Clint
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > > Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
> > > the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
> > > I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes.
> > > I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as
pros
> > > and cons of this model before making the final purchase.
> >
> > From what I can see, the differences can be upgraded later. This has
> > stamped wings versus the cast iron and a table board. You can always
make
> a
> > table board yourself.
> >
> > Major thing (IMO) is the fence. The X series has a better fence so make
> > sure this one is going to do the job for you. While the floor model in
> the
> > store may not be a good setup, lock, move, lock the fence. Does it lock
> > parallel to the miter slot every time? If you like the fence you will
> like
> > the saw. If not, keep saving.
> > Ed
> > [email protected]
> > http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
> >
> >
> >
>
>
"Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
> the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
> I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes.
> I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as pros
> and cons of this model before making the final purchase.
From what I can see, the differences can be upgraded later. This has
stamped wings versus the cast iron and a table board. You can always make a
table board yourself.
Major thing (IMO) is the fence. The X series has a better fence so make
sure this one is going to do the job for you. While the floor model in the
store may not be a good setup, lock, move, lock the fence. Does it lock
parallel to the miter slot every time? If you like the fence you will like
the saw. If not, keep saving.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
I have the Delta 36-650c (not sure what the "c" is for) and I'm quite
happy with it. It has solid cast iron wings, and extruded aluminium
fence, T-slots for the mitre gauge, a beveled front edge on the table
and wings, and a TEFC motor. I think it's an excellent saw for the
hobbiest or casual wood worker, especially for the price.
A few things I did to improve it were (these would apply to any TS though):
- I made a zero clearence throat insert.
- Swapped the crappy factory V-belt for a link belt. There's no
vibration at all with the link belt.
- I still run it on 120V, but a dedicated 20A circuit made a big difference.
- And for really smooth cuts I added a Veritas blade
stabilzer/straightener. This works surprizingly well.
The extruded aluminium fence is pretty good. The far end can deflect a
bit under pressure and it would be really nice to have some sort of
micro-adjust mechanism, but these are minor gripes.
Just as a side point the Delta X series contractor saw I saw this
morning did not have the TEFC motor.
Good luck choosing and enjoy.
Darren
Joseph Smith wrote:
> Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
> the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
> I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes. The
> reviews on it seem to be very good and at $498 it is in my price range.
> Lowes seems to have the lowest price around on it.
> I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as pros
> and cons of this model before making the final purchase. I would prefer
> one of the Delta X series Contractor Saws but $550.00 is my limit.
> Thanks
>
>
--
Darren Wadden
"MSgeek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> get the 36-444 instead. It is made in the US. Better fence although not a
> bies or unifence. Also it has the new stand.
The 444 is about a third more expensive. Is it worth that much more? I
note the 444 motor develops 2hp on 240v, while the 650 is only 1.5hp. How
do they compare on noise.
Neither of them will take a dust collector, which seems a bit odd; wouldn't
a saw be about the first thing to put a DC on?
I hope to buy a saw in this price range in the next week, so any input would
be appreciated.
If you're close to Canada, you could try getting a 36-650C. Only available
in Canada, but it comes with the cast iron wings as standard issue. Not
sure what your warranty situation would be, however.
Clint
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > Hooray!!! The wife has finally loosened the household purse string for
> > the tune of about $550.00. I can finally get rid of my Crapsman TS.
> > I have had my eye on the Delta Contractor TS 36-650 at Lowes.
> > I am looking for inputs from the users of the news group as far as pros
> > and cons of this model before making the final purchase.
>
> From what I can see, the differences can be upgraded later. This has
> stamped wings versus the cast iron and a table board. You can always make
a
> table board yourself.
>
> Major thing (IMO) is the fence. The X series has a better fence so make
> sure this one is going to do the job for you. While the floor model in
the
> store may not be a good setup, lock, move, lock the fence. Does it lock
> parallel to the miter slot every time? If you like the fence you will
like
> the saw. If not, keep saving.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>
Thanks!!! You just saved me a few bucks. I'll stick w/my router and router
table.
Joey
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Please don't get a molding head. Routers are actually a bunch safer, in
my
> opinion, not to mention more versatile. Somewhere, perhaps on the
property
> still, is my molding head. Gave it to my wife to vanish after it tried
to
> kill me one day, and never regretted it.
>
> I like the link belt on mine. Starts, stops, cuts - and the nickel still
> stands.
>
> "Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> It runs very smooth with just a slight vibration that
> > I
> > think can get rid of by replacing Delta's belt with a higher quality
one.
> > It is a
> > very quiet saw and feels like it has all the power I'll need (since I
> don't
> > woodwork
> > for a living).
> > Now I must convince the wife to let me get a new dado set and dado
insert.
> > I
> > might even try to get the moulder head and insert and give it a whirl.
I
> > never
> > formed moulding on a table saw before and my curiosity is peaked.
>
>
"Joseph Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I hadn't looked at that one. What the rip capacity? The Delta has a 30'
> rip right of the blade
> and can handle a dado width of up to 13/16.
> "Fred Wolf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have been looking at the Bosche 4000 ,, $ 375 at HD
> >
> > any thoughts on that one?
> > "
The Bosche is a portable with a small table, isn't it? Not at all the same
purpose as the Delta.
I hadn't looked at that one. What the rip capacity? The Delta has a 30'
rip right of the blade
and can handle a dado width of up to 13/16.
"Fred Wolf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have been looking at the Bosche 4000 ,, $ 375 at HD
>
> any thoughts on that one?
> "
>
>
Had a 444. It IS worth the little extra.
On Thu, 06 Nov 2003 01:58:32 GMT, "Wade Lippman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"MSgeek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> get the 36-444 instead. It is made in the US. Better fence although not a
>> bies or unifence. Also it has the new stand.
>
>The 444 is about a third more expensive. Is it worth that much more? I
>note the 444 motor develops 2hp on 240v, while the 650 is only 1.5hp. How
>do they compare on noise.
>Neither of them will take a dust collector, which seems a bit odd; wouldn't
>a saw be about the first thing to put a DC on?
>
>I hope to buy a saw in this price range in the next week, so any input would
>be appreciated.
>
Buy a Jenner( Fenner?) Link Belt. Also, a moulding head is rather
scary. I'll sell you mine if you really want one.
On Thu, 06 Nov 2003 19:33:22 GMT, "Joseph Smith"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Thanks to all the responses and suggestions. I weighed my options, money,
>and how far I can push the wife and settled on the 36-650. I have it now
>and it
>is assembled, but I'm still checking the alignments. The fence was spot on
>out
>of the box as far as I can tell. It lined up perfectly the the miter groove
>over
>numerous tries. Did have to adjust the indicator wondow thingme a little
>for a
>dead-on-zero reading. It runs very smooth with just a slight vibration that
>I
>think can get rid of by replacing Delta's belt with a higher quality one.
>It is a
>very quiet saw and feels like it has all the power I'll need (since I don't
>woodwork
>for a living).
>Now I must convince the wife to let me get a new dado set and dado insert.
>I
>might even try to get the moulder head and insert and give it a whirl. I
>never
>formed moulding on a table saw before and my curiosity is peaked. Thanks
>once
>again for your responses.
>
>Joey
>