I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
The door will be repainted when I am done.
This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
Thanks in advance.
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:l3Dgf.2853$F%3.165@trnddc05...
> I've repaired a fir entry door. It was drastic surgery, but the repair has
> lasted for 6 years and still sound. I replaced the rotten wood with new
> fir wood. I'll be glad to post a couple of photos if it will help. IIRC, I
> used Gorilla glue on the glue ups.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
>> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
>> what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
>> sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
>> going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
>> it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
>> if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
>> center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
>> The door will be repainted when I am done.
>>
>> This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
Try this link. This is very good stuff to repair rotted wood. He has other
products to fill wood too.
http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html
Larry
>>
>
>
Google on the rec.boats newsgroup on "transom repair" There are a
number of products discussed that are designed to structurally repair
the wood while stopping or slowing the rot process. I assume these
would be sandable and paintable.
Dave Hall
On 21 Nov 2005 23:22:19 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
>lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
>what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
>sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
>going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
>it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
>if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
>center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
>The door will be repainted when I am done.
>
>This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
>
>Thanks in advance.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
> what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
> sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
> going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
> it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
> if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
> center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
> The door will be repainted when I am done.
I just repaired a pair of exterior Douglas Fir, sliding garage side doors
for someone. Pictures are already posted at:
http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm
.... and may give you some ideas on at least one approach to repairing a
rotten bottom rail.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05
Swingman wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
>> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile
>> and what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a
>> some sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a
>> replacement is going to be very hard. So I am left in the position
>> of having to repair it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop
>> the rot and wondering if I can fill the damage with something so i
>> don't have to replace the center stile. Also what would be a good
>> filler for the woodworm holes. The door will be repainted when I am
>> done.
>
> I just repaired a pair of exterior Douglas Fir, sliding garage side
> doors for someone. Pictures are already posted at:
>
> http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm
You do some nice work there.
>
> .... and may give you some ideas on at least one approach to
> repairing a rotten bottom rail.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
Pat wrote:
> To replace the door which is curved would require removing and
> rebuilding the frame, which given how this frame was built would
> require redoing the stucco.. So this would be a really big job. Bigger
> than repairing the door? I don't know yet.
Why not reproduce the door. Curved doors can still be produced.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
> what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
> sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
> going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
> it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
> if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
> center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
> The door will be repainted when I am done.
>
> This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
Have you considered Bondo? An auto body filler. Warren
[email protected] wrote:
> I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile
> and what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a
> some sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a
> replacement is going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of
> having to repair it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the
> rot and wondering if I can fill the damage with something so i don't
> have to replace the center stile. Also what would be a good filler
> for the woodworm holes. The door will be repainted when I am done.
Dig out all rot, drill numerous small holes in the nearby surrounding
wood and fill them with a thinned epoxy (lacquer thinner, acetone) to
firm up adjacent wood. As it is absorbed, add more epoxy until holes
remain filled flush. To fill what you have dug out - also worm holes -
mix epoxy with a thickener (fine saw dust will do) and slather into
holes. If you removed substantial wood, you can fit a wood dutchman and
glue in with epoxy before filling to save on epoxy.
Since you are going to be refinishing, it wouldn't hurt to also drizzle
thinned epoxy into all joints where water could enter/penetrate.
Sand and paint.
A general epoxy info & source...
http://www.westsystem.com/
Non boat useage...
http://www.westsystem.com/frames/tier1/usesforepoxy.htm
A specific "how to" for a repair similar to yours...
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/19/Quick_Fix.html
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Pat" wrote in message
> Thanks. The pictures really help. Your door was in worse shape than
> mine currently appears to be. Any comment on merits of using dowel over
> biscuits over splines? I can do either, just wondering.
Only that I am far from being a fan of dowel joinery as a rule, but I do
believe in using the best joinery method consistent with the desired result,
and in not taking an unnecessary amount of time in doing it.
Having at least some expertise with most all the joinery methods that could
have been used in this situation, and the tools to do them, and since there
was really no shear or racking forces involved with these hanging doors, I
made a judgment call that dowels would be sufficient for this task, and they
were certainly quicker ... only time will tell.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05
I've repaired a fir entry door. It was drastic surgery, but the repair has
lasted for 6 years and still sound. I replaced the rotten wood with new fir
wood. I'll be glad to post a couple of photos if it will help. IIRC, I used
Gorilla glue on the glue ups.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
> what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
> sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
> going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
> it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
> if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
> center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
> The door will be repainted when I am done.
>
> This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
On 21 Nov 2005 23:22:19 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
[email protected] quickly quoth:
>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
>lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
>what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
>sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
>going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
>it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
>if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
>center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
>The door will be repainted when I am done.
First, stop the rot, then fill with epoxy.
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/rotrepair.htm
There are many epoxy wood filler kits available nowadays which would
repair your door prior to repainting. DAGS on "epoxy wood filler" for
lots of hits.
http://www.google.com/search?num=100&q=epoxy+wood+filler
Second-best might be a polyester filler like Bondo, but it won't last
as long or be as sturdy.
--
***********************************************************
"Boy, I feel safer now that Martha Stewart is behind bars!
O.J. is walking around free, Osama Bin Laden too, but they
take the one woman in America willing to cook and clean
and work in the yard and haul her ass to jail."
--Tim Allen
***********************************************************
"Joseph Meehan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pat wrote:
>> To replace the door which is curved would require removing and
>> rebuilding the frame, which given how this frame was built would
>> require redoing the stucco.. So this would be a really big job. Bigger
>> than repairing the door? I don't know yet.
>
> Why not reproduce the door. Curved doors can still be produced.
>
> --
> Joseph Meehan
>
> Dia duit
>
Reproduction maybe for a price far exceeding $2k. Even a quality flat wood
door can exceed $1k
Have you considered a wood epoxy filler. These can be molded like putty and
after hardening can be cut and sanded. Matching a transparent stain might
be impossible but paint or opaque stain would be OK. This material I have
seen used to repair rotted window sills, just be sure to rout or cut out all
rotted and damaged wood. You may also need to cut keyways (slots wider at
the bottom) so the filler does not fall out if the wood expands or shrinks
with humidity. A router with a flaired bit is excellent for removing rotted
material as is any roto tool for smaller areas.
Saturate the remaining wood with Jasco wood preservative (clear or green) or
similar product to prevent any future rot or insect invasion. Do this after
the repair in case the preservative makes any adhesives stick poorly.
[email protected] wrote:
>I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
> lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile
> and what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a
> some sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a
> replacement is going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of
> having to repair it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the
> rot and wondering if I can fill the damage with something so i don't
> have to replace the center stile. Also what would be a good filler
> for the woodworm holes. The door will be repainted when I am done.
>
> This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
>
> Thanks in advance.
I would go for a replacement not a repair. In the long run I suspect
you will be a lot happier.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit