Hoy hoy,
I'm making a jig out of pine.
I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it.
Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet.
What can I use to
1) get the poly off &
2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like
right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25.
What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
Thanks,
Mowgli
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You might consider buying a better quality ply.
>
EVERY wood moves. The question is "how much?"
Ed
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:15:00 GMT, Chris Merrill
> >As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have
> >plywood jigs move over time:
>
> I waxed mine and figure it's good for as long as I am.
Okay, now tell us what you do to your jigs. ;-)
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
If you have to resort to scrape and wipe, it's time to consider that it may
be the wood itself.
Poorly resin-set pine can ooze almost forever, and no finish save shellac
has a chance, because the ooze is what they distill to make turpentine. I
use shellac to seal my jigs, but I make them of ply or composition material,
because that gives me an automatic leg up on stability.
"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:44:12 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's > >
> >"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
> >> I'm making a jig out of pine.
> >> I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
> >> Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it.
> >> Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet.
> >> What can I use to
> >> 1) get the poly off &
> >> 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
> >
> >Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some
> >poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to
set
> >up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits?
> >Ed
> >
>
> Thanks Ed, I'll try that.
>
> Mowgli
>EVERY wood moves. The question is "how much?"
Every wood moves regardless of finish, no? Build your jigs outta quality
birch ply and any movement you won't notice. If the movement you see outta
a ply jig gives you concern, your product design needs to be refined.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
>
> "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > You might consider buying a better quality ply.
> >
> EVERY wood moves. The question is "how much?"
> Ed
>
>
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:15:00 GMT, Chris Merrill
<[email protected]> pixelated:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?
>
>As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have
>plywood jigs move over time:
I waxed mine and figure it's good for as long as I am.
But what's a couple thou of movement when you set up
jigs daily for current projects anyway?!?
You sound like some crazed puzzlemaker, y'know? <gd&r>
- Metaphors Be With You -
http://diversify.com Web Application Programming
On Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:36:23 GMT, Chris Merrill
<[email protected]> pixelated:
>Rumpty wrote:
>> Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.
>
>Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.
How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?
-------------------------------
Iguana: The other green meat!
-------------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Every wood moves regardless of finish, no?
Correct. If it is finished it is less likely to move from moisture though,
but not impossible either.
I put a finish on all of my jigs and templates just to keep them cleaner
looking. If nothing else, my heirs will be able to get the full $26,000
that shops go for on eBay.
Ed
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:44:12 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski's fingers viciously
stabbed at an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward
haiku:
>
>"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
>> I'm making a jig out of pine.
>> I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
>> Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it.
>> Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet.
>> What can I use to
>> 1) get the poly off &
>> 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
>
>Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some
>poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to set
>up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits?
>Ed
>
Thanks Ed, I'll try that.
Mowgli
Rumpty wrote:
> Why are you applying a finish to a jig?
Uuhhhmmmm....minimize moisture transfer...to minimize wood movement...
to minimize inaccuracies in the jig introduced by wood movement...to
make the jig useful after the season changes.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Rumpty wrote:
> Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.
Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
it might be faster to make a new jig and burn that one!
dave
Mowgli wrote:
> Hoy hoy,
>
> I'm making a jig out of pine.
> I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
> Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it.
> Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet.
> What can I use to
> 1) get the poly off &
> 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
>
>
> mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like
> right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25.
> What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mowgli
Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rumpty wrote:
> > Why are you applying a finish to a jig?
>
> Uuhhhmmmm....minimize moisture transfer...to minimize wood movement...
> to minimize inaccuracies in the jig introduced by wood movement...to
> make the jig useful after the season changes.
>
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?
As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have
plywood jigs move over time:
(see the section titled "Why MDF?")
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/panel_sled.asp?&refcode=04IN10RL&URLCheck=1
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Why are you applying a finish to a jig?
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hoy hoy,
>
> I'm making a jig out of pine.
> I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> How much does your baltic birch ply move, Chris?
Enough for a 24x18 crosscut sled to wobble on the surface of my TS --
I'd guess 1/16"...maybe 1/8". It was flat when I built it.
(sorry for the late reply...been away)
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 21:29:33 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 19:15:00 GMT, Chris Merrill
>> >As a follow-up...apparently I'm not the only one to have
>> >plywood jigs move over time:
>>
>> I waxed mine and figure it's good for as long as I am.
>
>Okay, now tell us what you do to your jigs. ;-)
Am I that transparent or could you tell by the bruise on my
forehead that I wasn't talking about the jigs?
LJ (whose new glasses are due in tomorrow or Monday)
<ww,nn,kwim?>
----------------------------------------------------------
* Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
* better time with a roller. ** http://diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------
You might consider buying a better quality ply.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rumpty wrote:
> > Make your jigs outta um let's say birch ply, you have no movement.
>
> Unfortunately, my experience says otherwise.
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:06:09 -0400, Morgans's fingers viciously stabbed at
an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:
>
>"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote >
>> mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like
>> right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25.
>> What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mowgli
>
>What kind of cutting will you be doing?
A little bit of everything, rip, c-c, plywood...
I have a ts, bs, scm, chainsaw, etc..but some stuff's just too big for my
small shop, it helps me to cut stuff to near the right size.
Good, not too expensive all-purpose blade? Freud? 40t? ??
Mowgli
"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote >
> mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I like
> right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25.
> What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mowgli
What kind of cutting will you be doing?
--
Jim in NC
"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:06:09 -0400, Morgans's fingers viciously stabbed at
> an innocent keyboard to form the now famous if slightly awkward haiku:
>
> >
> >"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote >
> >> mini-gloat - I got a good, not too used PC 7 1/4" right-side blade (I
like
> >> right-side better) circ saw delivered to my house today for $25.
> >> What's a good, not too pricy all-around blade for it?
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Mowgli
> >
> >What kind of cutting will you be doing?
>
> A little bit of everything, rip, c-c, plywood...
> I have a ts, bs, scm, chainsaw, etc..but some stuff's just too big for my
> small shop, it helps me to cut stuff to near the right size.
> Good, not too expensive all-purpose blade? Freud? 40t? ??
>
> Mowgli
For remodeling work, or when nails may get cut, B & D Piranha blades will
cut though a dozen 16d nails before it is junk. Best by far.
For general work, Irwin Marathon blades are pretty good, and are readily
available, and the price is right. Plywood blades, I don't have an opinion,
just one with lots and lots of teeth.
--
Jim in NC
"Mowgli" <Mowgli@swinginthrudajunglew/outa.gov> wrote in message
> I'm making a jig out of pine.
> I wiped some tung oil in to see how it'll look.
> Two days later I glued, screwed and polyed it.
> Today the parts that have oil are still poly-wet.
> What can I use to
> 1) get the poly off &
> 2) get the oil out so I can poly the $#!+ out of it for durability?
Depending on the ratio, it can take a while to dry. I mixed some
poly/tung/mineral sprits to try a wiping finish. Took about 3 days to set
up. Try wiping it with mineral spirits?
Ed