I am always worried about my lumber warping before I get a chance to
assemble (weekend warrior). I am making a table and I have milled the 2"
thick legs close to final thickness (2.3"). Should I let them sit stickered
for a day before taking to final thickness or a 2" leg not going to
move/warp?
For my rails (4/4 taken down to 0.75") I might do the same thing.
I have only had this be a problem once when I planed to much from one side
of a 4/4 board in the past.
What do you do? Recommendations?
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Do what feels more safe to you however for the thicker stuff I don't worry
> about acclimating at all. I mill to exact thickness unless it has to fit
> in a specific slot. Then I mill to exact thickness on the day that the
> pieces are to be permanently fitted together. The thinner the material
> the greater the deviations tend to be. The climate in you location will
> have more to say about how you should address this than any thing.
> Opinions from all over the world may all be correct but not necessarily
> for your location.
I am probably being over cautious, but... Thanks!
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9e954936-64e8-464c-b70c-733923c2acc8@n75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 23, 5:54 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Do what feels more safe to you however for the thicker stuff I don't
> > worry
> > about acclimating at all. I mill to exact thickness unless it has to fit
> > in a specific slot. Then I mill to exact thickness on the day that the
> > pieces are to be permanently fitted together. The thinner the material
> > the greater the deviations tend to be. The climate in you location will
> > have more to say about how you should address this than any thing.
> > Opinions from all over the world may all be correct but not necessarily
> > for your location.
>
> I am probably being over cautious, but... Thanks!
"Garrett Hack usually mills stock slightly oversized, lets it sit for a
few days, and then takes it to final dimension. It's more for warpage
than for shrinkage, though. So you'll want to leave enough for a
light pass on the jointer as well as the planer."
I think I might start doing that on a regular basis. Thanks.
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9e954936-64e8-464c-b70c-733923c2acc8@n75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 23, 5:54 pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Do what feels more safe to you however for the thicker stuff I don't
> > worry
> > about acclimating at all. I mill to exact thickness unless it has to fit
> > in a specific slot. Then I mill to exact thickness on the day that the
> > pieces are to be permanently fitted together. The thinner the material
> > the greater the deviations tend to be. The climate in you location will
> > have more to say about how you should address this than any thing.
> > Opinions from all over the world may all be correct but not necessarily
> > for your location.
>
> I am probably being over cautious, but... Thanks!
Garrett Hack usually mills stock slightly oversized, lets it sit for a
few days, and then takes it to final dimension. It's more for warpage
than for shrinkage, though. So you'll want to leave enough for a
light pass on the jointer as well as the planer.
;!) and to prove my point about suggestions from others including experts
in other parts of the country, If I mill to a specific thickness and wait a
day or two it almost always is too thick to fit in the slot it was milled
for. Himidity in Houston plays a big part. If I mill equally from both
sides I seldom get any warp.
On Feb 23, 5:54=A0pm, "Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > Do what feels more safe to you however for the thicker stuff I don't wor=
ry
> > about acclimating at all. =A0I mill to exact thickness unless it has to =
fit
> > in a specific slot. =A0Then I mill to exact thickness on the day that th=
e
> > pieces are to be permanently fitted together. =A0 =A0The thinner the mat=
erial
> > the greater the deviations tend to be. =A0The climate in you location wi=
ll
> > have more to say about how you should address this than any thing.
> > Opinions from all over the world may all be correct but not necessarily
> > for your location.
>
> I am probably being over cautious, but... =A0 =A0 Thanks!
Garrett Hack usually mills stock slightly oversized, lets it sit for a
few days, and then takes it to final dimension. It's more for warpage
than for shrinkage, though. So you'll want to leave enough for a
light pass on the jointer as well as the planer.
JP
"Garage_Woodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am always worried about my lumber warping before I get a chance to
>assemble (weekend warrior). I am making a table and I have milled the 2"
>thick legs close to final thickness (2.3"). Should I let them sit
>stickered for a day before taking to final thickness or a 2" leg not going
>to move/warp?
>
> For my rails (4/4 taken down to 0.75") I might do the same thing.
>
> I have only had this be a problem once when I planed to much from one side
> of a 4/4 board in the past.
>
> What do you do? Recommendations?
>
> --
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
Do what feels more safe to you however for the thicker stuff I don't worry
about acclimating at all. I mill to exact thickness unless it has to fit in
a specific slot. Then I mill to exact thickness on the day that the pieces
are to be permanently fitted together. The thinner the material the
greater the deviations tend to be. The climate in you location will have
more to say about how you should address this than any thing. Opinions from
all over the world may all be correct but not necessarily for your location.