I'm doing some repro chests, with forged ironwork held on with nails
from the outside, clenched over on the inside. Until I find some nice
ductile iron rod, I'm tired of riveting steel!
Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
(hiding the point)
Which way should I bend the nails to clench them ? Along the grain or
across it ?
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 12:39:34 +0000, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm doing some repro chests, with forged ironwork held on with nails
>from the outside, clenched over on the inside. Until I find some nice
>ductile iron rod, I'm tired of riveting steel!
>
>Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
>try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
>(hiding the point)
roll the tip first.
>
>Which way should I bend the nails to clench them ? Along the grain or
>across it ?
across the grain.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 13:58:18 +0100, Juergen Hannappel
<[email protected]> wrote:
> ... wich might be easily achived by holding a triangular or even flat
>iron bar close to the nail, bend over that,
Ah, that's a neat idea.
Juergen is right. Experiment with the rod size to turn the point in a bit.
Old gates and board/batten doors were made this way. The trick is not to
drive the head back out.
BTW, it's "clinch", as in "clinch the deal".
Wilson
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
>
> [...]
>
>>> Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
>>> try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
>>> (hiding the point)
>>
>> Hiding the point means less scratches on hands or stuff put inside the
>> boxes: Do it.
>
> ... wich might be easily achived by holding a triangular or even flat
> iron bar close to the nail, bend over that, then with one stroke of
> the hamme bend the tip of the nail over the edge of the bar, remove
> bar, hammer nail flat into woood...
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Come to think of it, clinch against a chunk of iron, like a sledgehammer
head, to keep the head froom backing out.
WL
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 13:58:18 +0100, Juergen Hannappel
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> ... wich might be easily achived by holding a triangular or even flat
>>iron bar close to the nail, bend over that,
>
> Ah, that's a neat idea.
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Juergen is right. Experiment with the rod size to turn the point in a
bit.
> Old gates and board/batten doors were made this way. The trick is not to
> drive the head back out.
> BTW, it's "clinch", as in "clinch the deal".
> Wilson
>
MMmmmmmmm, Wilson, it might BE "clench" where Andy is.
--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.
I have made many shed and garden doors this way, back in the fiftys. We
turned the end of the nail over the tip of our nailset parrallel to the
grain, then set under the surface. Hope this makes sense.
Oldtimer
Andy Dingley wrote:
> I'm doing some repro chests, with forged ironwork held on with nails
> from the outside, clenched over on the inside. Until I find some nice
> ductile iron rod, I'm tired of riveting steel!
>
> Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
> try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
> (hiding the point)
>
> Which way should I bend the nails to clench them ? Along the grain or
> across it ?
Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> writes:
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
>> Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
>> try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
>> (hiding the point)
>
> Hiding the point means less scratches on hands or stuff put inside the
> boxes: Do it.
... wich might be easily achived by holding a triangular or even flat
iron bar close to the nail, bend over that, then with one stroke of
the hamme bend the tip of the nail over the edge of the bar, remove
bar, hammer nail flat into woood...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
> I'm doing some repro chests, with forged ironwork held on with nails
> from the outside, clenched over on the inside. Until I find some nice
> ductile iron rod, I'm tired of riveting steel!
>
> Any advice on clenching ? Should I just bend them over, or should I
> try to turn the tip downwards first, then bend ove the main length
> (hiding the point)
Hiding the point means less scratches on hands or stuff put inside the
boxes: Do it.
> Which way should I bend the nails to clench them ? Along the grain or
> across it ?
Along the grain will not help stability if the wood starts to split at
the point the nail goes through, while across the grain it will still
hold, so go for across the grain.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23