I will be building four "step stools" for my wife to give for presents this
winter. She will be painting each stool and placing creative stencils on
each stool based on who will receive the stool. Since she is painting the
stools, I chose popular for the wood. The boards are S4S - 4" x 3/4" - got
from the local Home Depot. In keeping with the proto type, I would like the
stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either glue
up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer or
could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then planer,
and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a difference
and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
Marshall
"Adam Diehl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > In keeping with the proto type, I would like the
> > stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either
glue
> > up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer or
> > could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then
planer,
> > and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a
difference
> > and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
>
> You'd be best off to joint, square and plane your stock before gluing up
> the panels. You'll get tighter and more consistent joints, and you won't
> have to plane as much off this way. Check out this web page to get an
> idea why this is the case:
> http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/CabProcess3.html
>
> Check out the rest of the site while you're there; there's lots of good
> information there.
Gluing stock which is a bit over thickness can compensate for a bit of
misalignment as it is planed to final. The OP will have to determine if his
stock is ready for gluing as purchased. I would rather glue up the stock
which will be crosscut to become panels rather than plane short pieces.
You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a glue-up.
Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
> >You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a glue-up.
> >Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
>
> If you're gluing up more than two boards side-by-side to make a panel, all
of
> the inner boards need *both* edges square, straight, and parallel.
>
> --
How perceptive. Did you come up with that on your own?
dugger4 wrote:
> I will be building four "step stools" for my wife to give for presents
> this winter. She will be painting each stool and placing creative stencils
> on
> each stool based on who will receive the stool. Since she is painting the
> stools, I chose popular for the wood. The boards are S4S - 4" x 3/4" -
> got
> from the local Home Depot. In keeping with the proto type, I would like
> the
> stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either
> glue up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer
> or could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then
> planer,
> and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a
> difference
> and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
>
> Marshall
plain 1/16 off before, to make sure there the same thickness then glue and
then plain the remaining 1/16, that way it's really 5/8 thick all the way
across
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>
> >
> > "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least>
wrote:
> >>
> >> >You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a
glue-up.
> >> >Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
> >>
> >> If you're gluing up more than two boards side-by-side to make a panel,
> >> all
> > of
> >> the inner boards need *both* edges square, straight, and parallel.
> >>
> >> --
> > How perceptive. Did you come up with that on your own?
>
> If he did he's doing better than you are since you neglected to mention
it.
Ok, nit lovers, let me put it this way.
All you need to glue pieces of wood together are complementary edges.
Mental midgets can pick at that one all they want.
my aren't we bitter, dose someone need some prunes?
George wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> George wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least>
> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a
> glue-up.
>> >> >Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
>> >>
>> >> If you're gluing up more than two boards side-by-side to make a panel,
>> >> all
>> > of
>> >> the inner boards need *both* edges square, straight, and parallel.
>> >>
>> >> --
>> > How perceptive. Did you come up with that on your own?
>>
>> If he did he's doing better than you are since you neglected to mention
> it.
>
> Ok, nit lovers, let me put it this way.
>
> All you need to glue pieces of wood together are complementary edges.
>
> Mental midgets can pick at that one all they want.
Thank you for all the help. I read this NG every morning before work and as
usual I have learned something. When I finish on of the step stools I will
post a pic on ABPW. Thanks again for the guidance.
yos,
marshall
"dugger4" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:SD8td.3671$wp.327@lakeread05...
> I will be building four "step stools" for my wife to give for presents
this
> winter. She will be painting each stool and placing creative stencils on
> each stool based on who will receive the stool. Since she is painting the
> stools, I chose popular for the wood. The boards are S4S - 4" x 3/4" -
got
> from the local Home Depot. In keeping with the proto type, I would like
the
> stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either
glue
> up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer or
> could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then planer,
> and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a
difference
> and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
>
> Marshall
>
>
"dugger4" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:SD8td.3671$wp.327@lakeread05...
>I will be building four "step stools" for my wife to give for presents this
> winter. She will be painting each stool and placing creative stencils on
> each stool based on who will receive the stool. Since she is painting the
> stools, I chose popular for the wood. The boards are S4S - 4" x 3/4" -
> got
> from the local Home Depot. In keeping with the proto type, I would like
> the
> stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either
> glue
> up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer or
> could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then planer,
> and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a
> difference
> and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
I would plane them to thickness first, cut to length, joint the edges and
then glue up. The reason I would not glue up first and then send it through
a planer is you will likely get tearout from the grain going in different
directions on different boards.
good luck,
Frank
In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a glue-up.
>Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
If you're gluing up more than two boards side-by-side to make a panel, all of
the inner boards need *both* edges square, straight, and parallel.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
"dugger4" <[email protected]> wrote in news:SD8td.3671$wp.327@lakeread05:
> My question is: Which is better OR is there a difference and any
> knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
Since you have access to a wide planer, and you're only going to take
off 1/8", I would glue up first, then plane to thickness. As Frank
said, you may have tearout issues if the grain is going in different
directions (altho poplar's not too prone to that), but since you're
taking so little off, you can take several very thin passes to
minimize the risk of tearout.
John
George wrote:
>
> "Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>>
>> >You need one flat face and one square edge on each board for a glue-up.
>> >Anything more, like parallel sides or faces is gravy.
>>
>> If you're gluing up more than two boards side-by-side to make a panel,
>> all
> of
>> the inner boards need *both* edges square, straight, and parallel.
>>
>> --
> How perceptive. Did you come up with that on your own?
If he did he's doing better than you are since you neglected to mention it.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
> In keeping with the proto type, I would like the
> stock to be 5/8" thick. I have access to a 36" planer and could either glue
> up the 15" x 17" "panels"(read sides) and run them through the planer or
> could cut each board to length, run them through the joiner, then planer,
> and then glue up. My question is: Which is better OR is there a difference
> and any knowledge associated with it. Thanks in advance.
You'd be best off to joint, square and plane your stock before gluing up
the panels. You'll get tighter and more consistent joints, and you won't
have to plane as much off this way. Check out this web page to get an
idea why this is the case:
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/CabProcess3.html
Check out the rest of the site while you're there; there's lots of good
information there.
-AD