I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something that
you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of wood,
and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes iron.
So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed away,
with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and absolutely
nothing got transferred to the wood.
Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I remember, or
think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
Thanks,
Tom
On Mon, 4 Mar 2013 03:37:46 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
>No problem, I'll put you on mine too. Seems like a good place to put someone who gives
>uninformed advice based on "I have heard of this" -- especially *after* posts by someone
>who has actually *done* it....
Yes, only you frequently plonk people the moment you see that their
comment is about to trump your own.
"Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take
> something that you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it
> on a piece of wood, and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it
> on with a dry clothes iron.
>
> So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed
> away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and
> absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood.
>
> Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
>
> Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I
> remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain
> paper.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
I've read about the technique for masking PC boards. They've got some
specific recommendations about not only what iron setting to use, but how
long and what kind of paper works best. Keep in mind that this is for
etching copper boards, so the traces need to be crisp and clear and the
copper can act as a heat sink.
It might be a good starting point for your project.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Cliff H" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have heard of this,
>
> I have actually done this, and I already responded to the OP telling him
> what he needs to do
> to make it work, with comments based on my actual experience, rather than
> uninformed and
> erroneous guesswork.
>
>>but you need to figure out how to turn up the darkness
>> of the laser printer to put the max amount of toner on the paper.
>
> No you don't.
>
>> Print it reverse, which you can probably setup in the printer driver,
>
> The "Reverse Printing" setting tells the printer driver to print the pages
> in reverse order. To
> reverse the image on the page, you'll need some sort of graphics software.
>
>> turn it upside down on the wood.
>
> OK, *that* part you did get right.
>
>> You will probably have to experment on how much heat to use but I would
>> think pretty high.
>
> As I noted in my first post in this thread, the iron should be set on its
> highest setting.
Yes you will need the iron at its highest setting, but results may vary
according to the printer/copier as the melting temperature (and the fuser
temperature) varies considerably by brand and model. Only testing your
particular brand of printer/copier will tell you how well it will work. I
know this because I used to work with a number of toner machines, and needed
to know which one could print on the other's output without damaging the
image or contaminating the fuser rollers with melted toner.
On 3/1/2013 2:25 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something
> that you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece
> of wood, and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry
> clothes iron.
>
> So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed
> away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and
> absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood.
>
> Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
>
> Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I
> remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
I have done it with an inkjet and T-shirt image transfer paper. IIRC
the paper is available from HP and Canon for sure and normally available
at the office supply.
Print the image in "reverse" on the t-shirt transfer paper and then iron
on the t-shirt and or the surface of your choice.
I cannot comment on iron-on decal, but I did try wet decals on wood. It
was a corn hole set. I then covered the entire surface with spray
polyurethane. It was a door prize, so I don't know the long term
outcome, but that day many people played. It still looked good when the
new owner took it home.
On 3/1/2013 3:25 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something
> that you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece
> of wood, and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry
> clothes iron.
>
> So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed
> away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and
> absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood.
>
> Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
>
> Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I
> remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
On 3/1/2013 4:10 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in news:fca13036-5fc7-4449-966c-
> [email protected]:
>
>> On Friday, March 1, 2013 12:25:19 PM UTC-8, Tom Dacon wrote:
>>> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something t
>> hat you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of wood, and transfer
> the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes iron. So I tried it both with a laserjet
> image and an inkjet image. Ironed away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long
> to do it, and absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood. Anybody know if that actually
> works, and if so just how to do it? Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but
> what I remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper. Thanks,
> Tom
>>
>> I think they sell special inks for this. See http://www.alltransfers.com/ or
> http://www.inksupply.com/heat_transfer_ink.cfm for instance
>>
> Those inks are for use *only* with heat-transfer paper. They will *not* work with plain paper,
> which is what Tom is asking about.
>
Maybe not, he never specifically mentioned plain paper, I think he was
wanting to know how to transfer "something" from either type printer to
wood. There are numerous types of paper designed to go through an
inkjet and at least the t-shirt transfer paper will transfer an image to
wood or what ever.
"Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote in news:kgr2p3$tft$1@dont-
email.me:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something that
> you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of wood,
> and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes iron.
That is incorrect. This works only with laser-printed images. It will *not* work with an image
printed by inkjet, unless you make a copy of it on a laser photocopier first.
> So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed away,
> with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and absolutely
> nothing got transferred to the wood.
I'm guessing that either you didn't use enough heat, or the printer that you thought was a laser
printer, isn't.
Or perhaps you laid it image side up?
> Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
Yes, it does work, I've done it before -- and the way it works is you use some type of image-
editing software to make a mirror image of what you want to transfer, and either (a) print it on a
laser printer, or (b) print it on an inkjet printer and then photocopy it with a laser copier. Then lay
it image side down on the surface you want to transfer the image to, and iron the image onto
the surface with an ordinary household iron. Use the highest setting (cotton), and press firmly.
>
> Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I remember, or
> think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
Yes, it does.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in news:fca13036-5fc7-4449-966c-
[email protected]:
> On Friday, March 1, 2013 12:25:19 PM UTC-8, Tom Dacon wrote:
>> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something t
> hat you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of wood, and transfer
the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes iron. So I tried it both with a laserjet
image and an inkjet image. Ironed away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long
to do it, and absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood. Anybody know if that actually
works, and if so just how to do it? Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but
what I remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper. Thanks,
Tom
>
> I think they sell special inks for this. See http://www.alltransfers.com/ or
http://www.inksupply.com/heat_transfer_ink.cfm for instance
>
Those inks are for use *only* with heat-transfer paper. They will *not* work with plain paper,
which is what Tom is asking about.
"Cliff H" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I have heard of this,
I have actually done this, and I already responded to the OP telling him what he needs to do
to make it work, with comments based on my actual experience, rather than uninformed and
erroneous guesswork.
>but you need to figure out how to turn up the darkness
> of the laser printer to put the max amount of toner on the paper.
No you don't.
> Print it reverse, which you can probably setup in the printer driver,
The "Reverse Printing" setting tells the printer driver to print the pages in reverse order. To
reverse the image on the page, you'll need some sort of graphics software.
> turn it upside down on the wood.
OK, *that* part you did get right.
> You will probably have to experment on how much heat to use but I would
> think pretty high.
As I noted in my first post in this thread, the iron should be set on its highest setting.
"Cliff H" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Cliff H" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> I have heard of this,
>>
>> I have actually done this, and I already responded to the OP telling him
>> what he needs to do
>> to make it work, with comments based on my actual experience, rather than
>> uninformed and
>> erroneous guesswork.
>>
>>>but you need to figure out how to turn up the darkness
>>> of the laser printer to put the max amount of toner on the paper.
>>
>> No you don't.
>>
>>> Print it reverse, which you can probably setup in the printer driver,
>>
>> The "Reverse Printing" setting tells the printer driver to print the pages
>> in reverse order. To
>> reverse the image on the page, you'll need some sort of graphics software.
>>
>>> turn it upside down on the wood.
>>
>> OK, *that* part you did get right.
>>
>>> You will probably have to experment on how much heat to use but I would
>>> think pretty high.
>>
>> As I noted in my first post in this thread, the iron should be set on its
>> highest setting.
>
> Sorry I bow down to your superior knowledge OP please ignore my post.
Best advice you've given yet.
>
> Whats the word I'm now looking for plonk you know the one where you add some
> one to an igore list. I'm sure you will correct me but I'll never see it.
No problem, I'll put you on mine too. Seems like a good place to put someone who gives
uninformed advice based on "I have heard of this" -- especially *after* posts by someone
who has actually *done* it....
> Sorry the proper term is *mirror*. Some printer drivers have it in the print
> setup dialog.
And some don't.
On Friday, March 1, 2013 12:25:19 PM UTC-8, Tom Dacon wrote:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something t=
hat you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of w=
ood, and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes=
iron. So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed=
away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and absol=
utely nothing got transferred to the wood. Anybody know if that actually wo=
rks, and if so just how to do it? Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on tran=
sfer paper, but what I remember, or think I remember, is that it would work=
with just plain paper. Thanks, Tom
I think they sell special inks for this. See http://www.alltransfers.com/ o=
r http://www.inksupply.com/heat_transfer_ink.cfm for instance
On 3/1/2013 3:25 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
> I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something
> that you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece
> of wood, and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry
> clothes iron.
>
> So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed
> away, with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and
> absolutely nothing got transferred to the wood.
>
> Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
>
> Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I
> remember, or think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
>
What Doug said, realize that the paper is warm when you image it in a
laser, with high speed lasers it can get very warm, what you are doing
is reheating the toner to transfer it to the wood.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
I have heard of this, but you need to figure out how to turn up the darkness
of the laser printer to put the max amount of toner on the paper.
Print it reverse, which you can probably setup in the printer driver, turn
it upside down on the wood.
You will probably have to experment on how much heat to use but I would
think pretty high.
OK, thanks for your comments, folks.
To be a little more specific about what I was doing, I used my CAD software
(TurboCad) to draw the profile and flip it left-to-right so that it would
come out in the orientation that I wanted to display it in. The profile was
drawn with heavy lines, so that it would be more prominent than the usual
single-weight lines that the CAD software normally draws in. I printed it on
a HP LaserJet, on normal everyday printer paper - basically copier paper.
Then I taped the paper, ink side down, onto the piece and used a dry iron
and medium temperature for my tests.
Looks like all I need to do is turn the heat up on the iron and I'll be good
to go. After another test or two I'll let you know how it came out.
What's this for, you might be curious? I made and drilled a block to hold a
set of router bits that are used to make a particular drawer pull profile,
and I wanted to show the profile, along with the sequence of cuts, along the
side of the block, so that all you needed was the router bit kit and you'd
have everything you needed to know to make the piece. No piece of paper with
drawings on it to lose. Then the plan was to spray the block with
polyurethane.
Thanks again for your suggestions,
Tom
Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Cliff H" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have heard of this,
>
> I have actually done this, and I already responded to the OP telling him
> what he needs to do
> to make it work, with comments based on my actual experience, rather than
> uninformed and
> erroneous guesswork.
>
>>but you need to figure out how to turn up the darkness
>> of the laser printer to put the max amount of toner on the paper.
>
> No you don't.
>
>> Print it reverse, which you can probably setup in the printer driver,
>
> The "Reverse Printing" setting tells the printer driver to print the pages
> in reverse order. To
> reverse the image on the page, you'll need some sort of graphics software.
>
>> turn it upside down on the wood.
>
> OK, *that* part you did get right.
>
>> You will probably have to experment on how much heat to use but I would
>> think pretty high.
>
> As I noted in my first post in this thread, the iron should be set on its
> highest setting.
Sorry I bow down to your superior knowledge OP please ignore my post.
Whats the word I'm now looking for plonk you know the one where you add some
one to an igore list. I'm sure you will correct me but I'll never see it.
Sorry the proper term is *mirror*. Some printer drivers have it in the print
setup dialog.
On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 14:23:43 -0700, Puckdropper wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
>
> I've read about the technique for masking PC boards. They've got some
> specific recommendations about not only what iron setting to use, but how
> long and what kind of paper works best. Keep in mind that this is for
> etching copper boards, so the traces need to be crisp and clear and the
> copper can act as a heat sink.
>
> It might be a good starting point for your project.
>
> Puckdropper
>
Use 'thin' paper, like a page torn from a semi glossy newspaper ad. Thin
helps the transfer of heat better.
-Bruce
"Tom Dacon" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I read somewhere, quite a long while ago, that you could take something that
you'd printed on a laser printer or an inkjet, place it on a piece of wood,
and transfer the image to the wood by ironing it on with a dry clothes iron.
So I tried it both with a laserjet image and an inkjet image. Ironed away,
with no idea of how much heat to use or how long to do it, and absolutely
nothing got transferred to the wood.
Anybody know if that actually works, and if so just how to do it?
Yes, I know that you can buy iron-on transfer paper, but what I remember, or
think I remember, is that it would work with just plain paper.
======================================================================
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuMtlZmyHKk