I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt driven,
what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and how is the
(or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can spare
the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a HVLP spay
gun?
TIA
Phil
Phil-in-MI wrote:
> I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
> spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
>
> I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> stage.
the right choice. just be aware that the compressor manufacturers and
the gun manufacturers both are lying about cfm- and neither of them
fudges the numbers to your benefit. get a compressor rated at least
150% of the rated requirement of the gun.
> The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
> oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
> compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt driven,
> what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and how is the
> (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
the electric motor has sealed bearings. unless something fucks up, you
won't have to do anything with them. the oil is lubricating the pump,
which is like the piston in a car, but operating the other direction-
the electric motor applies rotational force to it and it produces
compression. just like a car it has a crankshaft and bearings, which
are lubricated by an oil bath, and rings to keep the oil out of the
cylinder. some oil gets past the rings though, and that ends up in the
tank. what also ends up in the tank is water, condensed from the air.
both of these are removed from the air line by a separator. harbor
freight sells one that will meet your needs just fine:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45009>
>
> And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
> must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
> finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can spare
> the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a HVLP spay
> gun?
with water base finishes it's not a disaster. even with wb finishes,
and especially with oil or laquer base stuff it's worth filtering.
>
> TIA
>
> Phil
"Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
> spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
Not lots of CFM at all. Spray guns are on the low side of tools that demand
lots of air. 10-12 CFM is usually more than adequate.
>
> I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
> oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
> compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt
driven,
> what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and how is the
> (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
The oil is for the compressor head. It's a cylinder and piston just like
your car engine, except it's turned by the motor instead of firing gasoline.
The oil lubes the piston in the cylinder and the bearings. There is a fill
plug on the base of the compressor head and a drain plug as well. Some
compressors have a small window to monitor the condition and the level of
the oil, and others do not. You would simply change the oil based on the
number of hours of use, or top it off as it is consumed (if your compressor
consumes a bit of oil).
The oil does not get into the tank, or the air lines. Make sure not to put
an oiler in the lines like a lot of people do. Oilers are only for air
tools and aren't necessary even in working shops. Oilers contaminate the
air lines. If you run air tools, put a drop of oil into the air inlet of
the tool before every couple of uses and it will be fine. Oil and spray
guns just don't go together.
>
> And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
> must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
> finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can
spare
> the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a HVLP
spay
> gun?
>
Like I say - the oil never gets in the lines. It merely lubricates the
compressor head. You will want to put a water trap in your line downstream
from the compressor, and you'll want a water trap that screws into the inlet
of your gun as well. Drain your compressor tank of all accumulated water
(all compressors accumulate water in the tank) before every spray session.
Together these will keep moisture problems at bay.
Here's a link to the water trap that screws on the gun...
<http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&
RS=1&itemID=1800&keyword=34066>
Here's an example of a downstream moisture trap...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92261
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 01:03:08 GMT, "Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam &
[email protected]> wrote:
>I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
>spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
>
>I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
>stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
>oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
>oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
>compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt driven,
>what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and how is the
>(or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
>
>And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
>must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
>finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can spare
>the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a HVLP spay
>gun?
>
>TIA
>
>Phil
Couple points...
Oil lube compressors, as a rule, not only out last "oil less" compressors but
are much quieter..
While you're at Harbor Freight, (or online there), consider their "remote" tank
drain system... it's a replacement spigot for the tank drain, at the end of a
hose...
In my experience, it's much easier to "get around" to draining the tank if you
don't have to get on your knees and find the spigot... and NOT draining the tank
with each use will put more water in the hose/spray gun or fill your separator
quickly, in addition to reducing the life of your tank.. YMWV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> While you're at Harbor Freight, (or online there), consider their "remote"
tank
> drain system... it's a replacement spigot for the tank drain, at the end
of a
> hose...
> In my experience, it's much easier to "get around" to draining the tank if
you
> don't have to get on your knees and find the spigot... and NOT draining
the tank
> with each use will put more water in the hose/spray gun or fill your
separator
> quickly, in addition to reducing the life of your tank.. YMWV
What I'd put on is the automatic drain. It plumbs in quite easily and blows
off a small amount of air every time the compressor cycles. Does an
excellent job of keeping water from building up in the tank.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
The others have answered your questions quite well. I would just like to add
a comment about filters.
I found a filter at an auto paint supplier that really helps and it only
cost about $20. Whenever I'm painting I add it in the air line about 15 feet
before my spray gun and it stops everything except the air. The filter media
is a roll of cheap toilet paper (not even Charmin). You just replace the
roll before each spray session and you never have to worry about moisture or
oil contamination.
If you don't collect too much moisture in it during the painting job you
might even still be able to use it for the other job that it was made for.
:-)
--
Charley
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
> >spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
>
> Huh?
> >
> > I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> > stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> > oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't
want
> > oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt
driven
> > compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt
> > driven, what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and
> > how is the (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
>
> You need to go to the store and look at these compressors to get a better
> grasp.
>
> Belt driven does not mean that the pump is oiless although every one that
I
> have seen is. The oil lubricates the compressor pump.
> the oil gets into the tank as the compressor pump piston rings begin to
wear
> out. So, if doing this for a hobby a quality oil type compressor should
> last you a very long time before it starts to leak oil into the tank.
> Typically oil lubed compressors enjoy a life about 10 times longer than
> oil-less compressors.
>
>
> >
> > And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor,
there
> > must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
> > finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can
> > spare the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a
> > HVLP spay gun?
>
> Yes there are oil filters to add to compressors to guard against this when
> it eventually happens. You also want to for certain have a water
> trap/filter as close to you spray gun as possible. A lot of water
condenses
> in side the tank with the heated compressed air going into the tank. As
> that hot air goes through your cool air line moisture condenses and
> contaminates the air coming out of the hose.
>
>
>
>
"Mike Berger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In reality, as the seaks start to wear, oil does get into the
> lines. For air powered tools that's a benefit, not a drawback.
> For airbrushing or painting, I'd put a filter on the line.
You are quite right Mike - in fact it really does get in even when the
compressor is brand new - to a lessor degree. I should have thought through
my wording below better. I was trying to distinguish between oiling the
head and oil intentionally being in the tank as I understood the OP to be
confused about.
As well, you are quite correct about line filtering, which is something I
suggested to the OP as well.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I didn't know they still made those. Used to use one on the air operated bar
feed for a CNC lathe. Kept the feeder from dripping.
"Charley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The others have answered your questions quite well. I would just like to
add
> a comment about filters.
>
> I found a filter at an auto paint supplier that really helps and it only
> cost about $20. Whenever I'm painting I add it in the air line about 15
feet
> before my spray gun and it stops everything except the air. The filter
media
> is a roll of cheap toilet paper (not even Charmin). You just replace the
> roll before each spray session and you never have to worry about moisture
or
> oil contamination.
>
> If you don't collect too much moisture in it during the painting job you
> might even still be able to use it for the other job that it was made for.
> :-)
>
> --
> Charley
>
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote in
message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a
finish
> > >spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
> >
> > Huh?
> > >
> > > I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> > > stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> > > oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't
> want
> > > oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt
> driven
> > > compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt
> > > driven, what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor?
and
> > > how is the (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
> >
> > You need to go to the store and look at these compressors to get a
better
> > grasp.
> >
> > Belt driven does not mean that the pump is oiless although every one
that
> I
> > have seen is. The oil lubricates the compressor pump.
> > the oil gets into the tank as the compressor pump piston rings begin to
> wear
> > out. So, if doing this for a hobby a quality oil type compressor should
> > last you a very long time before it starts to leak oil into the tank.
> > Typically oil lubed compressors enjoy a life about 10 times longer than
> > oil-less compressors.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor,
> there
> > > must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying
a
> > > finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can
> > > spare the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with
a
> > > HVLP spay gun?
> >
> > Yes there are oil filters to add to compressors to guard against this
when
> > it eventually happens. You also want to for certain have a water
> > trap/filter as close to you spray gun as possible. A lot of water
> condenses
> > in side the tank with the heated compressed air going into the tank. As
> > that hot air goes through your cool air line moisture condenses and
> > contaminates the air coming out of the hose.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
I have not found this to be true but I guess that depends on what oil you
put into it.
--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
"Chris Friesen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> mac davis wrote:
>
> > Oil lube compressors, as a rule, not only out last "oil less"
compressors but
> > are much quieter..
>
> On the downside however, they're a LOT harder to start when cold. For
> those of us with shops that only get heated when we're in it, this is a
> factor.
>
> Chris
"Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
>spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
>
> I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
> oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
> compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt
> driven, what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and
> how is the (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
>
> And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
> must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
> finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can
> spare the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a
> HVLP spay gun?
>
> TIA
>
> Phil
Thanks everyone for your responses. Bridger and both Mikes, thanks for the
education.
As you could tell I am not too experienced with Air Compressors. But I hope
I am now better able to purchase the product that will suit my needs.
And Brian, thanks for the Amazon price heads up.
Phil
"Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I plan on the purchase of an air compressor mainly for use with a finish
>spray gun. Hobby usage, HVLP gun that takes lots of CFM.
Huh?
>
> I am thinking about an electric belt driven oil-lube compressor single
> stage. The problem seems to be my mis-understanding of oil lube .vs.
> oil-less. Since I want the primary usage to be finish spray, I don't want
> oil residue in the air lines. But I learn that one maker of a belt driven
> compressor, you have to change the oil every so often. But if belt
> driven, what is using the oil for lubrication? The electric motor? and
> how is the (or what is the method for) oil getting in the air tank?
You need to go to the store and look at these compressors to get a better
grasp.
Belt driven does not mean that the pump is oiless although every one that I
have seen is. The oil lubricates the compressor pump.
the oil gets into the tank as the compressor pump piston rings begin to wear
out. So, if doing this for a hobby a quality oil type compressor should
last you a very long time before it starts to leak oil into the tank.
Typically oil lubed compressors enjoy a life about 10 times longer than
oil-less compressors.
>
> And so my next question: if I do go with an belt driven compressor, there
> must be a gizmo that will filter the oil out of the line for applying a
> finish, so what do they call that gizmo? Any link? And if anyone can
> spare the time, is water condensation any problem to worry about with a
> HVLP spay gun?
Yes there are oil filters to add to compressors to guard against this when
it eventually happens. You also want to for certain have a water
trap/filter as close to you spray gun as possible. A lot of water condenses
in side the tank with the heated compressed air going into the tank. As
that hot air goes through your cool air line moisture condenses and
contaminates the air coming out of the hose.