The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt.
Now the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is
held on the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench
because the wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have
accumulated in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either
order a socket to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw.
Got to love those far-thinking Chinese.
--
GW Ross
If you keep an open mind, people will
throw a lot of garbage in it.
On 2/10/2014 9:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/10/14, 4:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Jeff Thies wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
>>> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating
>>> counter top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath
>>> wall, would of been much harder to do with sheetrock.
>>
>> As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might
>> think. Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them
>> and/or reflect sound off of them more so than less dense materials.
>> This is not a cut and dried sort of discussion that can easily be
>> expressed at one being better than the other. It's probably safe
>> though to say that a less dense material will absorb and reduce sound
>> much better than a more dense material. Look at the insides of a
>> sound studio.
>>
>
> Those softer materials are there to control the sound within the room,
> and do virtually nothing to stop it from transferring to another room.
> While you are correct that mass, alone, doesn't stop sound from
> transferring to another room, uncoupled mass does. That's why in those
> recording studios you see two walls separated by an air space between
> two rooms. They call it and "room-within-a-room."
>
> A large mass can actually amplify some resonant frequencies to another
> room. When you have two heavy masses of different resonant frequencies,
> unconnected physically, virtually no sound transference will take place.
> Once cheap and effective way to accomplish this is to have a cement
> block wall on one side and a stud and sheetrock wall on the other.
> Almost all the sound that escapes through that type of contruction does
> so through air gaps in the doors, windows, and utility cavities.
>
> Despite what the Pink Panther would lead you to believe, those rolls of
> insulation inside the walls do very little for *real* soundproofing.
>
>
No but rock wool is a good insulator, while the pink stuff is not.
Not only does it fireproof but it really is a good sound damper.
--
Jeff
On 2/8/2014 8:44 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt. Now
> the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is held on
> the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench because the
> wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have accumulated
> in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either order a socket
> to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw. Got
> to love those far-thinking Chinese.
You could have put a link belt on just cut the old off, and link it on,
then put it around the motor sheave. Link belts while a little noisier
are way nicer vibration wise.
--
Jeff
On 2/11/2014 9:35 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/11/14, 8:47 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/10/2014 11:01 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>> I've done that type of wall in studios and they perform very
>>> poorly. Are they better than a standard stud wall? Yes, for
>>> ordinary residential use. But they would never work for a studio.
>>
>> Never say never. ;)
>>
>> They do for some practical applications in the studio. Depends upon
>> the location, distance from, and frequency that you wish to
>> mitigate.
>>
>> Installed correctly, double stud walls will mitigate sound
>> transmission _by decoupling_, for _practical_ isolation in areas like
>> vocal booths, not so effectively in areas like drum and amp booths.
>>
>
> Well, I am a drummer, right? :-p
>
>
>> But a double stud wall room/booth, a few feet away from a separate
>> double stud wall/booth, will often get you close enough for practical
>> purposes.
>>
>
> Now you're just making my point for me.
> If one works, why are you now building two? :-)
In a word, utilization of interior space and, if done/placed properly,
of great benefit in reduction of standing waves in an otherwise less
than desirable recording space.
> I would specify cement block. :-)
> Having done some alternating stud walls, I'm left to wonder if it isn't
> easier and more effective to simply build two walls, close to one
> another for those purposes.
Depends upon where the facility is located, IOW, stand-alone, commercial
building, middle of a downtown city block, next to a loading dock (<-
actual experience, there <g>), etc.
My point, having built three commercial studios from the ground up, the
pursuit of "soundproofing", and perfection in acoustic space, is mostly
one of the "holy grail" nature, never realized, ill advised, and often
practically unnecessary.
Very often, time and money better is better spent on practical issues
that have more impact on the recording environment.
Not to mention that, historically, more memorable hit records have been
cut in a waaaay less than perfect "studio environments -- the likes
Motown, Sun, Cowboy Jack Clements's, Muscle Shoals, Sugar Hill, et al
than in all the designer built, 'perfection of acoustic environment',
"soundproof" studios combined. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/10/2014 10:31 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> "Jeff Thies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>
>>> And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and
>>> replaced with shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and
>>> density that can't be replicated. And nobody has mold
>>> problems with it as it has no cellulose.
>>
>>
>> But it (probably) has wood lath and wood rots. For that matter,
>> never seen mold on a block wall? I have,many times, no cellulose
>> there either.
>
> To be fair - I've torn out a lot of plaster and lathe walls in upstate NY
> and never once have I encountered rot. I know - now that I've said that
There's a reason for that. The old homes were pretty airy. So they got
lots of air to dry them out. With todays push to close the house off
they would get very moldy. BTW is the Green thing really good. There
seems to be more environmental issues with a closed off house it doesn't
breathe and gets moldy, over a less tight house.
> someone will point to a case in some abscure set of circumstances, that they
> found it. My point is - it next to don't happen.
>
> That said - I see nothing particularily endearing about plaster and lathe.
> Why would someone want those almost close to kinda sort flat and smooth
> walls when "shitrock" does it much better? I personally don't care about
> the density of plaster. But I do understand that some people just simply
> like the older stuff. To me - that's preference thing and there is no real
> argument in favor of plaster.
>
And then we have the stupid Architects that still don't realize that in
a northern area it's better to put bathrooms on inside walls rather than
outside walls. My bathroom is in the corner of the house.. The shower is
freezing in the mornings.. It's so prone to mold on the back of the
shower that when I redo the bathroom I expect to find tons of mold on
the outter part of the shower and sheathing. It's ok to have one wall,
but why wouldn't you put the closet on the outside wall and the bathroom
on the inner, yes one wall would still have an outside wall. The shower
and sinks should be located on inside walls not an outside wall, that
would solve the mold issue.
--
Jeff
"Larry Blanchard" wrote...
> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 16:44:52 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
>
>> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>> > Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>>
>>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they are worse, just
>>> with more features, and thereby more complicated, which indeed causes
>>> its own set of problems.
>>
>> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
>
> I remember some relatives back in the 1940s who were very proud of their
> new indoor plumbing. The hand pump was in the kitchen :-).
>
My grandfather bought his farm with money earned in the shipyards during
WWII. He cut trees, peeled them and provided them to the electric company
so he could have electricity to the house. They installed the poles and ran
wire to his house. He then went to work wiring the house.
His first project? He wired the outhouse. That way he did not have to fire
up the kerosene lantern to use the facilities. The bathroom came a couple
years later. People traveled from miles around to witness this new, modern
wonder. Just imagine! An outhouse with an electric bulb burning just
inches from you head while you were using it. It was considered very modern
at the time.
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 19:12:16 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>My house is 35 years old. Just finished one bathroom and planning the
>>next. Already have the floor tile. Anyone want a blue toilet?
>
> Put it on CraigsList. You'll probably find someone with a harvest
> gold one to trade. ;-)
>
> In our first house, all of the bathroom fixtures were yellow
> (including a very nice porcelain cast iron tub). *NOTHING* goes with
> yellow. We also had a harvest gold stove and avocado 'fridge but they
> were easily replaced. ;-)
>
I almost offered to trade a dark pink toilet, but realized that blue
(they're usually a powder blue, aren't they?) would probably clash with
the dark pink counter top.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On 02/10/2014 09:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/10/2014 9:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/10/14, 4:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Jeff Thies wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
>>>> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating
>>>> counter top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath
>>>> wall, would of been much harder to do with sheetrock.
>>>
>>> As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might
>>> think. Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them
>>> and/or reflect sound off of them more so than less dense materials.
>>> This is not a cut and dried sort of discussion that can easily be
>>> expressed at one being better than the other. It's probably safe
>>> though to say that a less dense material will absorb and reduce sound
>>> much better than a more dense material. Look at the insides of a
>>> sound studio.
>>>
>>
>> Those softer materials are there to control the sound within the room,
>> and do virtually nothing to stop it from transferring to another room.
>> While you are correct that mass, alone, doesn't stop sound from
>> transferring to another room, uncoupled mass does. That's why in those
>> recording studios you see two walls separated by an air space between
>> two rooms. They call it and "room-within-a-room."
>>
>> A large mass can actually amplify some resonant frequencies to another
>> room. When you have two heavy masses of different resonant frequencies,
>> unconnected physically, virtually no sound transference will take place.
>> Once cheap and effective way to accomplish this is to have a cement
>> block wall on one side and a stud and sheetrock wall on the other.
>> Almost all the sound that escapes through that type of contruction does
>> so through air gaps in the doors, windows, and utility cavities.
>>
>> Despite what the Pink Panther would lead you to believe, those rolls of
>> insulation inside the walls do very little for *real* soundproofing.
>>
>>
>
> No but rock wool is a good insulator, while the pink stuff is not.
> Not only does it fireproof but it really is a good sound damper.
>
The best sound proofer is 2 x 4 studs at 1' alternating edge centers on
2 x 6 plates. Add insulation if it makes you feel better. No contact
between opposite walls.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/12/2014 10:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>
>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>> ;-)
>>>>
>>>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>> don't remember).
>>>>
>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>
>> ;-)
>>
>> How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
>> fits?
>
> Because that is how they did it in the olden days.
>
>
Rather than welding, I prefer to Loctite my wrench to the nut. Once it
sets up, I can turn the nut without fear of the wrench slipping. When
the nut's finally tight, a few seconds with a propane torch takes the
wrench right off.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>>
>>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they
>>> are worse, just with more features, and thereby more complicated,
>>> which indeed causes its own set of problems.
>>
>> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
>
> And the old reliable out-house too. These danged modern conveniences...
>
From bandsaw to outhouse. This is quite a warped thread.
--
GW Ross
Free advice is worth what you pay for
it
On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:39:11 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/12/2014 11:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>>>>>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>>>>> on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>
>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>>>> remember).
>>>>
>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>
>> ;-)
>>
>> How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
>> fits?
>
>Then what would I use the caliper for?
Weld it to the bolt to keep it from turning?
On 2/10/2014 11:01 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> I've done that type of wall in studios and they perform very poorly.
> Are they better than a standard stud wall? Yes, for ordinary
> residential use.
> But they would never work for a studio.
Never say never. ;)
They do for some practical applications in the studio. Depends upon the
location, distance from, and frequency that you wish to mitigate.
Installed correctly, double stud walls will mitigate sound transmission
_by decoupling_, for _practical_ isolation in areas like vocal booths,
not so effectively in areas like drum and amp booths.
But a double stud wall room/booth, a few feet away from a separate
double stud wall/booth, will often get you close enough for practical
purposes.
RWAR is fairly effective for decoupling, not so practical, and what you
make on the bananas you lose on the grapes ... IME, ventilation in RWAR
becomes a problem that brings with it its own sound transmission problems.
Good thing as a practical matter, most of the time it is not necessary
to totally "soundproof" a studio, or an area within a studio, just
attenuate the transmission of unwanted frequencies/sound in those areas
to an amplitude that doesn't interfere with the recording process.
The problem is quite a bit more involved mathematically/physically than
what is said here, but the practical application basically boils down
to, and roughly speaking, the necessity for effective sound absorption
techniques to require a dimension equal to the length of the absorbed
sound wave to be effective.
A 20Hz sound wave (@sea level) is approximately 56', not taking into
account properties of the material it is passing though, like mass, etc,
making soundproofing with material impractical in most situations ...
although at some frequencies it can be done with noise cancellation
techniques. (Example: sometimes running a monitor system 180 degrees out
of phase with the source will attenuate the sound picked up by a mic to
an acceptable level for both recording, and to prevent feedback on a
sound stage).
As far as residential application, when I build a house I generally
specify double/alternating stud walls in rooms next to the utility
rooms. In my own house, my bed is less than five feet from a washer and
dryer in the utility room next to the master bedroom, and for all
purposes it doesn't exist as a sound problem. I do have to watch the
framers, plumbers, electricians and drywall crew very closely during
construction to insure that they don't couple the walls with pipes, etc.
--
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 19:12:16 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2/9/2014 6:36 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> How many kitchens and baths last 85 years, anymore? *LONG* before
>> that, they're gutted and replaced with the new toys.
>>
>>
>
>My house is 35 years old. Just finished one bathroom and planning the
>next. Already have the floor tile. Anyone want a blue toilet?
Put it on CraigsList. You'll probably find someone with a harvest
gold one to trade. ;-)
In our first house, all of the bathroom fixtures were yellow
(including a very nice porcelain cast iron tub). *NOTHING* goes with
yellow. We also had a harvest gold stove and avocado 'fridge but they
were easily replaced. ;-)
On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>
>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>>> remember).
>>>
>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>
>
> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me - I do
> the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig welder to make
> sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya know...
>
Got that blade yet?
On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>
>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>>> remember).
>>>
>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>
>
> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me - I do
> the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig welder to make
> sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya know...
>
Safer still, weld the adjustable wrench to the nut!
On 2/12/2014 9:33 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>>
>>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>>> don't remember).
>>>>>
>>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me
>>> - I do the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig
>>> welder to make sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya
>>> know...
>>
>>
>> Got that blade yet?
>
> No! The damned thing is still in transit from Utah of all places! The
> company is only about 150 miles from here and the blade is manufactured
> about 150 miles in a different direction, but it's shipping from... UTAH!
> Every day, I'm going out to my garage to smoke some cigs and while I'm out
> there, I'm reassuring my table saw that a new and wonderful thing is about
> to enter its life. I fear it may be starting to doubt me...
>
You have kids right? You know better than to let the cat out of the bag
before you know that you can deliver. LOL
On 2/9/2014 9:36 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>
>>> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>>> jumps from 15 to 17...
>>
>> Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
>> standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
>> replacement installation.
>
> I hate Moen, and a few others. Delta seems to be pretty good for parts.
Delta has a few tiers of quality, so you need to be aware of what you're
buying, most particularly when purchasing from the Home Depot, Lowes, et al.
It it's cheap, you are buying "cheap", not inexpensive. There's a big
difference.
>> I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
>> faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
>
> I had to get parts for my Dad's (now gone) Kohler bathroom faucet. 70 +
> years old, and they had them...
One of the good things about using Kohler, as a builder, is that I can
leave the documentation with the homeowner in a "House Book", and
specifically let them know that Kohler generally keeps parts for years
for discontinued fixtures, which they will ship to you free of charge.
Kohler customer service is still relatively responsive compared to other.
>> Synchronized obsolescence.
>
> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they are worse, just
with more features, and thereby more complicated, which indeed causes
its own set of problems.
--
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
> jumps from 15 to 17...
Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
replacement installation.
I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
Synchronized obsolescence.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/12/2014 4:38 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 2/12/2014 10:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>>
>>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>>> ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>>> don't remember).
>>>>>
>>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>
>>> ;-)
>>>
>>> How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
>>> fits?
>>
>> Because that is how they did it in the olden days.
>>
>>
>
> Rather than welding, I prefer to Loctite my wrench to the nut. Once it
> sets up, I can turn the nut without fear of the wrench slipping. When
> the nut's finally tight, a few seconds with a propane torch takes the
> wrench right off.
>
> Puckdropper
>
I just glue my wrenches to my nuts :-)
That way I don't have to go looking for them later ;-)
See: http://imgur.com/HOj8zoV
--
Jeff
On 2/9/2014 6:36 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> How many kitchens and baths last 85 years, anymore? *LONG* before
> that, they're gutted and replaced with the new toys.
>
>
My house is 35 years old. Just finished one bathroom and planning the
next. Already have the floor tile. Anyone want a blue toilet?
On 2/12/2014 10:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>>>>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>>>> on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>
>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
>>>
>>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>>> remember).
>>>
>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>
> ;-)
>
> How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
> fits?
Because that is how they did it in the olden days.
Jeff Thies <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On 2/8/2014 8:44 PM, G. Ross wrote:
>> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
>> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt. Now
>> the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is held on
>> the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench because the
>> wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have accumulated
>> in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either order a socket
>> to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
>
> A six point 1 1/8" might work (common),
Doubtful. 26mm is less than 1 1/32".
> a 1 1/16" is closer but harder to find.
Where are you shopping, that you have trouble finding a 1 1/16" socket?
> A 1" might be worth a try. Some of the impacts run a little large.
More likely to work than 1 1/8"...
> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
> jumps from 15 to 17...
16mm and 5/8 inch are basically interchangeable. The difference is less than 0.005".
>
> I've spent a lot of time lately in pawn shops looking through bins of
> sockets, depressing...
You can buy 16mm sockets at Sears.
On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>>
>> I bought a bike for my daughter a number of years back. The assembly
>> instructions listed the tools that would be needed; including an
>> adjustable wrench. I'm no grease monkey, but I have basic sets of
>> sockets in English and Metric sizes. I figured the "adjustable wrench"
>> recommendation was for those poor benighted souls who keep their
>> entire complement of six tools in a kitchen drawer. A "handy" fellow like
>> me
>> wasn't going to fool around with an adjustable wrench.
>>
>> Turns out the nuts - TWO different sizes - were non-standard.
>>
>
>Oh yeah - a real handy guy does have a few different sizes of adjustable
>wrenches around at all time. I've got toos - lots of tools, but I also have
>and handful of adjustable wrenches. Ya just gotta know when to use 'em and
>when not...
Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:06:20 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2/9/2014 11:26 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>
>> On the other hand my bathroom faucet, circa 1929, is still going.
>> Nothing complicated in that! And metal outlasts plastic.
>
>And washers are cheap. ;)
>
>Then again, kitchens and bathroom are what sell houses, and women are
>the tail that wags that dog.
>
>Couldn't tell by me, but some kitchen and bath faucets/fixtures are
>apparently sexier than others ... mostly directly proportional to the
>price, and inversely proportional to longevity.
How many kitchens and baths last 85 years, anymore? *LONG* before
that, they're gutted and replaced with the new toys.
On 2/9/2014 12:26 PM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/9/2014 9:36 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>> On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>>>>> jumps from 15 to 17...
>>>>
>>>> Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
>>>> standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
>>>> replacement installation.
>
> Like trying to buy a replacement mop head a year later.
>>>
>>> I hate Moen, and a few others. Delta seems to be pretty good for parts.
>>
>> Delta has a few tiers of quality, so you need to be aware of what you're
>> buying, most particularly when purchasing from the Home Depot, Lowes, et
>> al.
>
> Didn't know that, but it makes sense. I tend not to trust anything from
> HD. Unfortunately it is the closest and I can bring stuff home hanging
> out my car window and not worry...
Big difference in locks too. See schlage at HD or Lowes, then goto a
locksmith. in the big box the bolt is basically white metal, at a
locksmith they will be solid brass usually
>>
>> It it's cheap, you are buying "cheap", not inexpensive. There's a big
>> difference.
>
> The one I bought for the rental's kitchen came with a lifetime
> guarantee. I thought, pretty good for $75. Maybe it means less than I
> thought. I always ask what to stay away from and the sales people always
> have definite opinions on that! One should never knowingly buy trouble.
>>
>>>> I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
>>>> faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
>>>
>>> I had to get parts for my Dad's (now gone) Kohler bathroom faucet. 70 +
>>> years old, and they had them...
>>
>> One of the good things about using Kohler, as a builder, is that I can
>> leave the documentation with the homeowner in a "House Book", and
>> specifically let them know that Kohler generally keeps parts for years
>> for discontinued fixtures, which they will ship to you free of charge.
>
> Nice.
>>
>> Kohler customer service is still relatively responsive compared to other.
>>
>>>> Synchronized obsolescence.
>>>
>>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>
>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they are worse, just
>> with more features, and thereby more complicated, which indeed causes
>> its own set of problems.
>
> I see that we are in the age of touchless faucets. Last trip out I saw
> several selling for big markdowns.
>
> On the other hand my bathroom faucet, circa 1929, is still going.
> Nothing complicated in that! And metal outlasts plastic.
>
> Jeff
>>
>
--
Jeff
On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:30:21 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Leon wrote:
>> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>>
>>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>>> don't remember).
>>>>>
>>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me
>>> - I do the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig
>>> welder to make sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya
>>> know...
>>
>>
>> Safer still, weld the adjustable wrench to the nut!
>
>I would have expected nothing less from you Leon. I've seen your
>workmanship and this kind of contribution makes it clear why you are the
>craftsman that you are. All we need now if for Karl to chime in and tell us
>that it would be better if we were still using arc welders...
Does Festool make arc welders?
On 2/11/2014 12:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> So my consulting client always opts for tricking the joint out with
> expensive soundproofing crap from the vendors here in Nashville and
> spend all their money on construction supplies and drywall finishers
> (all those crazy angles) and when their done, they end up buying a
> Mackie board and $100 mics from Guitar Center and they wonder why their
> awesome room sounds like crap.
My favorite Jack Clement's utterance: "Just remember, ALL it really
takes to cut a hit record is three minutes."
There is world of tongue-in-cheek wisdom in that statement, mostly
apparent only to those who have been in pursuit of same. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/9/2014 11:26 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> On the other hand my bathroom faucet, circa 1929, is still going.
> Nothing complicated in that! And metal outlasts plastic.
And washers are cheap. ;)
Then again, kitchens and bathroom are what sell houses, and women are
the tail that wags that dog.
Couldn't tell by me, but some kitchen and bath faucets/fixtures are
apparently sexier than others ... mostly directly proportional to the
price, and inversely proportional to longevity.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/8/2014 8:44 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt. Now
> the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is held on
> the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench because the
> wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have accumulated
> in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either order a socket
> to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
A six point 1 1/8" might work (common), a 1 1/16" is closer but harder
to find. A 1" might be worth a try. Some of the impacts run a little large.
I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
jumps from 15 to 17...
I've spent a lot of time lately in pawn shops looking through bins of
sockets, depressing...
Jeff
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw. Got
> to love those far-thinking Chinese.
On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 17:06:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/10/2014 1:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 19:12:16 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> My house is 35 years old. Just finished one bathroom and planning the
>>>> next. Already have the floor tile. Anyone want a blue toilet?
>>>
>>> Put it on CraigsList. You'll probably find someone with a harvest
>>> gold one to trade. ;-)
>>>
>>> In our first house, all of the bathroom fixtures were yellow
>>> (including a very nice porcelain cast iron tub). *NOTHING* goes with
>>> yellow. We also had a harvest gold stove and avocado 'fridge but they
>>> were easily replaced. ;-)
>>>
>>
>> I almost offered to trade a dark pink toilet, but realized that blue
>> (they're usually a powder blue, aren't they?) would probably clash with
>> the dark pink counter top.
>
>My dad's house (which he built) has aqua fixtures (tub, sink, toilet),
>all Kohler, in the upstairs bath. Kohler had great style, even 60 years
>ago. With that said, a blue toilet usually goes with nothing.
Our Vermont house had a cobalt blue Kohler toilet; impossible to find
parts for. The house was built in '87, so the commode was no antique.
On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>
>> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>> jumps from 15 to 17...
>
> Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
> standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
> replacement installation.
I hate Moen, and a few others. Delta seems to be pretty good for parts.
>
> I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
> faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
I had to get parts for my Dad's (now gone) Kohler bathroom faucet. 70 +
years old, and they had them...
>
> Synchronized obsolescence.
Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
Jeff
>
On 2/8/14 6:44 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt. Now
> the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is held on
> the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench because the
> wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have accumulated
> in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either order a socket
> to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw. Got
> to love those far-thinking Chinese.
I always had good luck finding large sockets at the local auto part
chain store (Auto Zone). Prices are tolerable for something you may only
use once and it beats waiting for an order to arrive.
-BR
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On 2/9/2014 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 9:36 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>> On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>>
>>>> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>>>> jumps from 15 to 17...
>>>
>>> Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
>>> standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
>>> replacement installation.
Like trying to buy a replacement mop head a year later.
>>
>> I hate Moen, and a few others. Delta seems to be pretty good for parts.
>
> Delta has a few tiers of quality, so you need to be aware of what you're
> buying, most particularly when purchasing from the Home Depot, Lowes, et
> al.
Didn't know that, but it makes sense. I tend not to trust anything from
HD. Unfortunately it is the closest and I can bring stuff home hanging
out my car window and not worry...
>
> It it's cheap, you are buying "cheap", not inexpensive. There's a big
> difference.
The one I bought for the rental's kitchen came with a lifetime
guarantee. I thought, pretty good for $75. Maybe it means less than I
thought. I always ask what to stay away from and the sales people always
have definite opinions on that! One should never knowingly buy trouble.
>
>>> I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
>>> faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
>>
>> I had to get parts for my Dad's (now gone) Kohler bathroom faucet. 70 +
>> years old, and they had them...
>
> One of the good things about using Kohler, as a builder, is that I can
> leave the documentation with the homeowner in a "House Book", and
> specifically let them know that Kohler generally keeps parts for years
> for discontinued fixtures, which they will ship to you free of charge.
Nice.
>
> Kohler customer service is still relatively responsive compared to other.
>
>>> Synchronized obsolescence.
>>
>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>
> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they are worse, just
> with more features, and thereby more complicated, which indeed causes
> its own set of problems.
I see that we are in the age of touchless faucets. Last trip out I saw
several selling for big markdowns.
On the other hand my bathroom faucet, circa 1929, is still going.
Nothing complicated in that! And metal outlasts plastic.
Jeff
>
On Sat, 08 Feb 2014 20:44:29 -0500, G. Ross wrote:
> Of all the sockets I have accumulated in the past 50 years, there is no
> 26 mm socket. I either order a socket to fit the nut or cut off the
> flange that surrounds it.
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw. Got
> to love those far-thinking Chinese.
I've run into similar socket problems on power tools and on motorcycles.
So far, all of the sizes I've needed (and I'm sure one was a 26mm) I've
found at Harbor Freight. Not the highest quality, but these are not
tools I'm going to use every day
--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014
On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>
>> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>> jumps from 15 to 17...
>
> Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
> standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
> replacement installation.
>
> I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
> faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
>
> Synchronized obsolescence.
I'm afraid this goes way back and wasn't invented in Asia.
Back in the early Seventies I managed to shear off the threaded portion
of a microphone stand (in a particularly foolish way) and decided to see
if I could avoid buying a new one.
There was a tool & die place just up the block from my parents' house. I
showed it to the guy, who - although there'd probably have been no
profit in it - said he could rethread it quickly for just a few bucks.
I said that would be great. He took out a gauge of some kind and tried
to match it up with the mating threads. Nope, too coarse. He grabbed the
next one. Nope. Too fine. With a puzzled look he explained that 27
threads per inch was what was needed, apparently unique to the mike
stand trade. And still the case, I believe.
On 2/9/2014 2:29 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
> > On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> >
> >> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
> >> jumps from 15 to 17...
> >
> > Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
> > standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
> > replacement installation.
> >
> > I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
> > faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
> >
> > Synchronized obsolescence.
>
> I'm afraid this goes way back and wasn't invented in Asia.
>
> Back in the early Seventies I managed to shear off the threaded portion
> of a microphone stand (in a particularly foolish way) and decided to see
> if I could avoid buying a new one.
>
> There was a tool & die place just up the block from my parents' house. I
> showed it to the guy, who - although there'd probably have been no
> profit in it - said he could rethread it quickly for just a few bucks.
>
> I said that would be great. He took out a gauge of some kind and tried
> to match it up with the mating threads. Nope, too coarse. He grabbed the
> next one. Nope. Too fine. With a puzzled look he explained that 27
> threads per inch was what was needed, apparently unique to the mike
> stand trade. And still the case, I believe.
And that is where a thread file comes in handy:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/58635/i/bikemaster-8-in-1-thread-repair-file
note the 27.
Requires patience, and perhaps drinking.
Jeff
>
On 2/9/2014 2:40 PM, Jeff Thies wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 2:29 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>
>> On 2/9/2014 10:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> > On 2/9/2014 8:55 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>> >
>> >> I needed a 16mm to remove a faucet a day ago. Every metric set I have
>> >> jumps from 15 to 17...
>> >
>> > Damned faucet manufacturers seem to delight in making attachment 'non
>> > standard', particularly when dealing with "cartridges" and their
>> > replacement installation.
>> >
>> > I'm still waiting on Kohler to deliver parts for two, 12 year old
>> > faucets, on the same vanity, which failed within days of each other.
>> >
>> > Synchronized obsolescence.
>>
>> I'm afraid this goes way back and wasn't invented in Asia.
>>
>> Back in the early Seventies I managed to shear off the threaded portion
>> of a microphone stand (in a particularly foolish way) and decided to see
>> if I could avoid buying a new one.
>>
>> There was a tool & die place just up the block from my parents' house. I
>> showed it to the guy, who - although there'd probably have been no
>> profit in it - said he could rethread it quickly for just a few bucks.
>>
>> I said that would be great. He took out a gauge of some kind and tried
>> to match it up with the mating threads. Nope, too coarse. He grabbed the
>> next one. Nope. Too fine. With a puzzled look he explained that 27
>> threads per inch was what was needed, apparently unique to the mike
>> stand trade. And still the case, I believe.
>
> And that is where a thread file comes in handy:
>
> http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/58635/i/bikemaster-8-in-1-thread-repair-file
>
>
> note the 27.
>
> Requires patience, and perhaps drinking.
>
> Jeff
>>
>
1. Thanks for the tip. I didn't know such a tool existed.
2. It wouldn't have helped. Although usually behind a keyboard, I was
getting a rare turn out front as the lead singer, back when I felt I was
qualified. For a dramatic, if cliched, ending, I would jump up in the
air (to my full vertical leap of a few inches) and the band would accent
the last note when I came down. One night I came down on the cast iron
base of the stand while holding the top of the stand in my hand.
Luckily is was the stand that broke, rather than my ankle. The threaded
bit broke away from the pipe completely.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> > Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>
> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they
> are worse, just with more features, and thereby more complicated, which
> indeed causes its own set of problems.
Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 16:44:52 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> > Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>
>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they are worse, just
>> with more features, and thereby more complicated, which indeed causes
>> its own set of problems.
>
> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
I remember some relatives back in the 1940s who were very proud of their
new indoor plumbing. The hand pump was in the kitchen :-).
--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014
On 2/9/2014 6:36 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:06:20 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 2/9/2014 11:26 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>
<snip>
>
> How many kitchens and baths last 85 years, anymore? *LONG* before
> that, they're gutted and replaced with the new toys.
>
>
And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and replaced with
shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and density that can't be
replicated. And nobody has mold problems with it as it has no cellulose.
Jeff
dadiOH wrote:
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>
>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they
>> are worse, just with more features, and thereby more complicated,
>> which indeed causes its own set of problems.
>
> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
And the old reliable out-house too. These danged modern conveniences...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
G. Ross wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]
>>>>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>>>
>>>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they
>>>> are worse, just with more features, and thereby more complicated,
>>>> which indeed causes its own set of problems.
>>>
>>> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
>>
>> And the old reliable out-house too. These danged modern
>> conveniences...
> From bandsaw to outhouse. This is quite a warped thread.
Yeah... ain't it cool!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> G. Ross wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> dadiOH wrote:
>>>> "Swingman"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]
>>>>>> Perhaps they don't make them like they used to.
>>>>>
>>>>> Unequivocally they do not, but that does not mean they
>>>>> are worse, just with more features, and thereby more complicated,
>>>>> which indeed causes its own set of problems.
>>>>
>>>> Dang, I so miss that hand pump outside the back door :)
>>>
>>> And the old reliable out-house too. These danged modern
>>> conveniences...
>> From bandsaw to outhouse. This is quite a warped thread.
>
> Yeah... ain't it cool!
I think it speaks to the diversity of this group. Maybe we could get
Federal Funding...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Jeff Thies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and
> replaced with shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and
> density that can't be replicated. And nobody has mold
> problems with it as it has no cellulose.
But it (probably) has wood lath and wood rots. For that matter, never seen
mold on a block wall? I have,many times, no cellulose there either.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
dadiOH wrote:
> "Jeff Thies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
>> And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and
>> replaced with shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and
>> density that can't be replicated. And nobody has mold
>> problems with it as it has no cellulose.
>
>
> But it (probably) has wood lath and wood rots. For that matter,
> never seen mold on a block wall? I have,many times, no cellulose
> there either.
To be fair - I've torn out a lot of plaster and lathe walls in upstate NY
and never once have I encountered rot. I know - now that I've said that
someone will point to a case in some abscure set of circumstances, that they
found it. My point is - it next to don't happen.
That said - I see nothing particularily endearing about plaster and lathe.
Why would someone want those almost close to kinda sort flat and smooth
walls when "shitrock" does it much better? I personally don't care about
the density of plaster. But I do understand that some people just simply
like the older stuff. To me - that's preference thing and there is no real
argument in favor of plaster.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
woodchucker wrote:
> And then we have the stupid Architects that still don't realize that
> in a northern area it's better to put bathrooms on inside walls
> rather than outside walls. My bathroom is in the corner of the
> house.. The shower is freezing in the mornings.. It's so prone to
> mold on the back of the shower that when I redo the bathroom I expect
> to find tons of mold on the outter part of the shower and sheathing.
> It's ok to have one wall, but why wouldn't you put the closet on the
> outside wall and the bathroom on the inner, yes one wall would still
> have an outside wall. The shower and sinks should be located on
> inside walls not an outside wall, that would solve the mold issue.
Well hell - that's easy Jeff... Because most Architects are men and men
think that some day they can convince the wife that they need to put a
window in that shower - for mold remediation purposes, of course...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/8/2014 8:44 PM, G. Ross wrote:
> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt. Now
> the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is held on
> the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench because the
> wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have accumulated
> in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either order a socket
> to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw. Got
> to love those far-thinking Chinese.
Another incident comes to mind.
I bought a bike for my daughter a number of years back. The assembly
instructions listed the tools that would be needed; including an
adjustable wrench. I'm no grease monkey, but I have basic sets of
sockets in English and Metric sizes. I figured the "adjustable wrench"
recommendation was for those poor benighted souls who keep their entire
complement of six tools in a kitchen drawer. A "handy" fellow like me
wasn't going to fool around with an adjustable wrench.
Turns out the nuts - TWO different sizes - were non-standard.
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Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> I bought a bike for my daughter a number of years back. The assembly
> instructions listed the tools that would be needed; including an
> adjustable wrench. I'm no grease monkey, but I have basic sets of
> sockets in English and Metric sizes. I figured the "adjustable wrench"
> recommendation was for those poor benighted souls who keep their
> entire complement of six tools in a kitchen drawer. A "handy" fellow like
> me
> wasn't going to fool around with an adjustable wrench.
>
> Turns out the nuts - TWO different sizes - were non-standard.
>
Oh yeah - a real handy guy does have a few different sizes of adjustable
wrenches around at all time. I've got toos - lots of tools, but I also have
and handful of adjustable wrenches. Ya just gotta know when to use 'em and
when not...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>>
>> I bought a bike for my daughter a number of years back. The assembly
>> instructions listed the tools that would be needed; including an
>> adjustable wrench. I'm no grease monkey, but I have basic sets of
>> sockets in English and Metric sizes. I figured the "adjustable
>> wrench" recommendation was for those poor benighted souls who keep
>> their entire complement of six tools in a kitchen drawer. A "handy"
>> fellow
>> like me
>> wasn't going to fool around with an adjustable wrench.
>>
>> Turns out the nuts - TWO different sizes - were non-standard.
>>
>
> Oh yeah - a real handy guy does have a few different sizes of
> adjustable wrenches around at all time. I've got toos - lots of
> tools, but I also have and handful of adjustable wrenches. Ya just
> gotta know when to use 'em and when not...
...and apparently ya gotta know how to spell - or at least how to proof-read
before hitting send...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/10/2014 4:14 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Oh yeah - a real handy guy does have a few different sizes of
>>adjustable wrenches around at all time.
I have them. But they're not nearly as convenient as a socket wrench,
especially when (as always happens) you don't have enough room to spin
the wrench in a circle. You end up getting a quarter of a rotation
before you need to reposition the wrench.
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On 2/10/2014 10:31 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> "Jeff Thies" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>
>>> And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and
>>> replaced with shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and
>>> density that can't be replicated. And nobody has mold
>>> problems with it as it has no cellulose.
>>
>>
>> But it (probably) has wood lath and wood rots. For that matter,
>> never seen mold on a block wall? I have,many times, no cellulose
>> there either.
>
> To be fair - I've torn out a lot of plaster and lathe walls in upstate NY
> and never once have I encountered rot. I know - now that I've said that
> someone will point to a case in some abscure set of circumstances, that they
> found it. My point is - it next to don't happen.
>
> That said - I see nothing particularily endearing about plaster and lathe.
> Why would someone want those almost close to kinda sort flat and smooth
> walls when "shitrock" does it much better? I personally don't care about
> the density of plaster.
Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating counter top
(no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath wall, would of been
much harder to do with sheetrock.
And if you want perfectly smooth, so be it.
Now, I'm a bit of an unusual guy, and while many of you just want a
perfect modern house, I think that is OK. But I like my old house and
have fixed the plaster and updated the insulation. The old cast iron tub
has it's charms and so does the sink. The house has good bones.
All in all it's a pretty solid house with wood lap siding (who does
that now?). I probably have the only (mostly) solar heated house in the
neighborhood and I've added a few other unusual items, some of which I
can control from a tablet. I'm not trying to set an example, I just like
to try out new and original things. Certainly *not* a path for most.
We have a tendency in this country to just throw out the old, and with
that, it is gone for good. I have a better appreciation than most for
diversity, and saving some of the old is part of that.
But I do understand that some people just simply
> like the older stuff. To me - that's preference thing and there is no real
> argument in favor of plaster.
>
On 2/10/2014 1:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 19:12:16 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> My house is 35 years old. Just finished one bathroom and planning the
>>> next. Already have the floor tile. Anyone want a blue toilet?
>>
>> Put it on CraigsList. You'll probably find someone with a harvest
>> gold one to trade. ;-)
>>
>> In our first house, all of the bathroom fixtures were yellow
>> (including a very nice porcelain cast iron tub). *NOTHING* goes with
>> yellow. We also had a harvest gold stove and avocado 'fridge but they
>> were easily replaced. ;-)
>>
>
> I almost offered to trade a dark pink toilet, but realized that blue
> (they're usually a powder blue, aren't they?) would probably clash with
> the dark pink counter top.
My dad's house (which he built) has aqua fixtures (tub, sink, toilet),
all Kohler, in the upstairs bath. Kohler had great style, even 60 years
ago. With that said, a blue toilet usually goes with nothing.
Jeff
>
> Puckdropper
>
Jeff Thies wrote:
>
> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating counter
> top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath wall, would of
> been much harder to do with sheetrock.
As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might think.
Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them and/or reflect
sound off of them more so than less dense materials. This is not a cut and
dried sort of discussion that can easily be expressed at one being better
than the other. It's probably safe though to say that a less dense material
will absorb and reduce sound much better than a more dense material. Look
at the insides of a sound studio.
>
> Now, I'm a bit of an unusual guy, and while many of you just want a
> perfect modern house, I think that is OK. But I like my old house and
> have fixed the plaster and updated the insulation. The old cast iron
> tub has it's charms and so does the sink. The house has good bones.
Tip of the hat to you for that, sir. To each his own, and it's good that
you enjoy yours.
>
> We have a tendency in this country to just throw out the old, and
> with that, it is gone for good. I have a better appreciation than
> most for diversity, and saving some of the old is part of that.
>
We do, but I don't really see that as the case with the comparison of
plaster vs. sheetrock. Except to acknowledge your last statement.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Jeff Thies wrote:
>
> My dad's house (which he built) has aqua fixtures (tub, sink, toilet),
> all Kohler, in the upstairs bath. Kohler had great style, even 60
> years ago. With that said, a blue toilet usually goes with nothing.
>
Except a blue tub and pink tile...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/10/14, 4:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Jeff Thies wrote:
>
>>
>> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
>> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating
>> counter top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath
>> wall, would of been much harder to do with sheetrock.
>
> As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might
> think. Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them
> and/or reflect sound off of them more so than less dense materials.
> This is not a cut and dried sort of discussion that can easily be
> expressed at one being better than the other. It's probably safe
> though to say that a less dense material will absorb and reduce sound
> much better than a more dense material. Look at the insides of a
> sound studio.
>
Those softer materials are there to control the sound within the room,
and do virtually nothing to stop it from transferring to another room.
While you are correct that mass, alone, doesn't stop sound from
transferring to another room, uncoupled mass does. That's why in those
recording studios you see two walls separated by an air space between
two rooms. They call it and "room-within-a-room."
A large mass can actually amplify some resonant frequencies to another
room. When you have two heavy masses of different resonant frequencies,
unconnected physically, virtually no sound transference will take place.
Once cheap and effective way to accomplish this is to have a cement
block wall on one side and a stud and sheetrock wall on the other.
Almost all the sound that escapes through that type of contruction does
so through air gaps in the doors, windows, and utility cavities.
Despite what the Pink Panther would lead you to believe, those rolls of
insulation inside the walls do very little for *real* soundproofing.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/10/14, 10:39 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 02/10/2014 09:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 2/10/2014 9:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 2/10/14, 4:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Jeff Thies wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
>>>>> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating
>>>>> counter top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath
>>>>> wall, would of been much harder to do with sheetrock.
>>>>
>>>> As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might
>>>> think. Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them
>>>> and/or reflect sound off of them more so than less dense materials.
>>>> This is not a cut and dried sort of discussion that can easily be
>>>> expressed at one being better than the other. It's probably safe
>>>> though to say that a less dense material will absorb and reduce sound
>>>> much better than a more dense material. Look at the insides of a
>>>> sound studio.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Those softer materials are there to control the sound within the room,
>>> and do virtually nothing to stop it from transferring to another room.
>>> While you are correct that mass, alone, doesn't stop sound from
>>> transferring to another room, uncoupled mass does. That's why in those
>>> recording studios you see two walls separated by an air space between
>>> two rooms. They call it and "room-within-a-room."
>>>
>>> A large mass can actually amplify some resonant frequencies to another
>>> room. When you have two heavy masses of different resonant frequencies,
>>> unconnected physically, virtually no sound transference will take place.
>>> Once cheap and effective way to accomplish this is to have a cement
>>> block wall on one side and a stud and sheetrock wall on the other.
>>> Almost all the sound that escapes through that type of contruction does
>>> so through air gaps in the doors, windows, and utility cavities.
>>>
>>> Despite what the Pink Panther would lead you to believe, those rolls of
>>> insulation inside the walls do very little for *real* soundproofing.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> No but rock wool is a good insulator, while the pink stuff is not.
>> Not only does it fireproof but it really is a good sound damper.
>>
> The best sound proofer is 2 x 4 studs at 1' alternating edge centers on
> 2 x 6 plates. Add insulation if it makes you feel better. No contact
> between opposite walls.
>
I've done that type of wall in studios and they perform very poorly.
Are they better than a standard stud wall? Yes, for ordinary
residential use.
But they would never work for a studio.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/11/14, 8:47 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/10/2014 11:01 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> I've done that type of wall in studios and they perform very
>> poorly. Are they better than a standard stud wall? Yes, for
>> ordinary residential use. But they would never work for a studio.
>
> Never say never. ;)
>
> They do for some practical applications in the studio. Depends upon
> the location, distance from, and frequency that you wish to
> mitigate.
>
> Installed correctly, double stud walls will mitigate sound
> transmission _by decoupling_, for _practical_ isolation in areas like
> vocal booths, not so effectively in areas like drum and amp booths.
>
Well, I am a drummer, right? :-p
> But a double stud wall room/booth, a few feet away from a separate
> double stud wall/booth, will often get you close enough for practical
> purposes.
>
Now you're just making my point for me.
If one works, why are you now building two? :-)
As I said in my other post, a room-within-a-room: two walls with an air
gap between. For best results, they would have difference resonant
frequencies, or in other words, built from different materials. On
block, one wood. One wood stud and sheetrock, one metal stud and brick
or double rock. etc, etc. Which is what you talk about here...
> RWAR is fairly effective for decoupling, not so practical, and what
> you make on the bananas you lose on the grapes ... IME, ventilation
> in RWAR becomes a problem that brings with it its own sound
> transmission problems.
>
> Good thing as a practical matter, most of the time it is not
> necessary to totally "soundproof" a studio, or an area within a
> studio, just attenuate the transmission of unwanted frequencies/sound
> in those areas to an amplitude that doesn't interfere with the
> recording process.
>
> The problem is quite a bit more involved mathematically/physically
> than what is said here, but the practical application basically boils
> down to, and roughly speaking, the necessity for effective sound
> absorption techniques to require a dimension equal to the length of
> the absorbed sound wave to be effective.
>
> A 20Hz sound wave (@sea level) is approximately 56', not taking into
> account properties of the material it is passing though, like mass,
> etc, making soundproofing with material impractical in most
> situations ... although at some frequencies it can be done with noise
> cancellation techniques. (Example: sometimes running a monitor system
> 180 degrees out of phase with the source will attenuate the sound
> picked up by a mic to an acceptable level for both recording, and to
> prevent feedback on a sound stage).
>
> As far as residential application, when I build a house I generally
> specify double/alternating stud walls in rooms next to the utility
> rooms. In my own house, my bed is less than five feet from a washer
> and dryer in the utility room next to the master bedroom, and for all
> purposes it doesn't exist as a sound problem. I do have to watch the
> framers, plumbers, electricians and drywall crew very closely during
> construction to insure that they don't couple the walls with pipes,
> etc.
>
I would specify cement block. :-)
Having done some alternating stud walls, I'm left to wonder if it isn't
easier and more effective to simply build two walls, close to one
another for those purposes.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/11/14, 12:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/11/2014 9:35 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/11/14, 8:47 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 2/10/2014 11:01 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've done that type of wall in studios and they perform very
>>>> poorly. Are they better than a standard stud wall? Yes, for
>>>> ordinary residential use. But they would never work for a
>>>> studio.
>>>
>>> Never say never. ;)
>>>
>>> They do for some practical applications in the studio. Depends
>>> upon the location, distance from, and frequency that you wish to
>>> mitigate.
>>>
>>> Installed correctly, double stud walls will mitigate sound
>>> transmission _by decoupling_, for _practical_ isolation in areas
>>> like vocal booths, not so effectively in areas like drum and amp
>>> booths.
>>>
>>
>> Well, I am a drummer, right? :-p
>>
>>
>>> But a double stud wall room/booth, a few feet away from a
>>> separate double stud wall/booth, will often get you close enough
>>> for practical purposes.
>>>
>>
>> Now you're just making my point for me. If one works, why are you
>> now building two? :-)
>
> In a word, utilization of interior space and, if done/placed
> properly, of great benefit in reduction of standing waves in an
> otherwise less than desirable recording space.
>
>> I would specify cement block. :-) Having done some alternating
>> stud walls, I'm left to wonder if it isn't easier and more
>> effective to simply build two walls, close to one another for those
>> purposes.
>
> Depends upon where the facility is located, IOW, stand-alone,
> commercial building, middle of a downtown city block, next to a
> loading dock (<- actual experience, there <g>), etc.
>
> My point, having built three commercial studios from the ground up,
> the pursuit of "soundproofing", and perfection in acoustic space, is
> mostly one of the "holy grail" nature, never realized, ill advised,
> and often practically unnecessary.
>
> Very often, time and money better is better spent on practical issues
> that have more impact on the recording environment.
>
> Not to mention that, historically, more memorable hit records have
> been cut in a waaaay less than perfect "studio environments -- the
> likes Motown, Sun, Cowboy Jack Clements's, Muscle Shoals, Sugar Hill,
> et al than in all the designer built, 'perfection of acoustic
> environment', "soundproof" studios combined. ;)
>
I couldn't agree more with that.
I've often been consulted on soundproofing/building out home studios and
I usually tell them to spend the money on mics. But perception is
reality. When a client walks into really cool decorated studio, with
all the crazy angles and thick glass partitions and Goliath doors and
all that, they get the feeling that their project is going to sound like
the studio looks.
When they walk into a converted garage (Motown!) and don't see all the
soundproofing bells and whistles, they think it's just a mom-n-pop home
studio. It very well might be, but until you hear what's been recorded
in there, you have no idea what kind of ear candy could come out of
place that doesn't have the looks of a place featured in Recording
magazine.
So my consulting client always opts for tricking the joint out with
expensive soundproofing crap from the vendors here in Nashville and
spend all their money on construction supplies and drywall finishers
(all those crazy angles) and when their done, they end up buying a
Mackie board and $100 mics from Guitar Center and they wonder why their
awesome room sounds like crap.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/10/2014 9:32 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/10/14, 4:18 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Jeff Thies wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Density matters for a lot of reasons, not the least is sound
>>> transmission. It also adds to thermal mass. I have floating
>>> counter top (no underneath support) hanging off a plaster lath
>>> wall, would of been much harder to do with sheetrock.
>>
>> As for sound transmission - that's not quite as simple as one might
>> think. Denser/harder materials will transmit sound through them
>> and/or reflect sound off of them more so than less dense materials.
>> This is not a cut and dried sort of discussion that can easily be
>> expressed at one being better than the other. It's probably safe
>> though to say that a less dense material will absorb and reduce sound
>> much better than a more dense material. Look at the insides of a
>> sound studio.
>>
>
> Those softer materials are there to control the sound within the room,
> and do virtually nothing to stop it from transferring to another room.
> While you are correct that mass, alone, doesn't stop sound from
> transferring to another room, uncoupled mass does. That's why in those
> recording studios you see two walls separated by an air space between
> two rooms. They call it and "room-within-a-room."
Exactly!
>
> A large mass can actually amplify some resonant frequencies to another
> room. When you have two heavy masses of different resonant frequencies,
> unconnected physically, virtually no sound transference will take place.
> Once cheap and effective way to accomplish this is to have a cement
> block wall on one side and a stud and sheetrock wall on the other.
> Almost all the sound that escapes through that type of contruction does
> so through air gaps in the doors, windows, and utility cavities.
>
> Despite what the Pink Panther would lead you to believe, those rolls of
> insulation inside the walls do very little for *real* soundproofing.
I agree.
Did some broadcast and recording work in the distant past.
>
>
On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
<snip>
> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
on one side, and a metric on the other.
Jeff
>
On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> <snip>
>>
>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>
>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>> on one side, and a metric on the other.
>
> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
>
> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
> remember).
>
True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
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Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>
>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>
>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>> remember).
>>
> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>
Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me - I do
the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig welder to make
sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya know...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>
>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>> don't remember).
>>>>
>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>
>>
>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me
>> - I do the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig
>> welder to make sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya
>> know...
>
>
> Safer still, weld the adjustable wrench to the nut!
I would have expected nothing less from you Leon. I've seen your
workmanship and this kind of contribution makes it clear why you are the
craftsman that you are. All we need now if for Karl to chime in and tell us
that it would be better if we were still using arc welders...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>
>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>> don't remember).
>>>>
>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>
>>
>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me
>> - I do the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig
>> welder to make sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya
>> know...
>
>
> Got that blade yet?
No! The damned thing is still in transit from Utah of all places! The
company is only about 150 miles from here and the blade is manufactured
about 150 miles in a different direction, but it's shipping from... UTAH!
Every day, I'm going out to my garage to smoke some cigs and while I'm out
there, I'm reassuring my table saw that a new and wonderful thing is about
to enter its life. I fear it may be starting to doubt me...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2014 9:33 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the
>>>>>> other. ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty
>>>>>> useless, so I don't remember).
>>>>>>
>>>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable
>>>>> wrenches with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me
>>>> - I do the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my
>>>> mig welder to make sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya
>>>> know...
>>>
>>>
>>> Got that blade yet?
>>
>> No! The damned thing is still in transit from Utah of all places! The
>> company is only about 150 miles from here and the blade is
>> manufactured about 150 miles in a different direction, but it's
>> shipping from... UTAH! Every day, I'm going out to my garage to
>> smoke some cigs and while I'm out there, I'm reassuring my table saw
>> that a new and wonderful thing is about to enter its life. I fear
>> it may be starting to doubt me...
> You have kids right? You know better than to let the cat out of the
> bag before you know that you can deliver. LOL
But... me and my table saw have developed such a love relationship over the
past couple of months...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/12/2014 10:22 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2014 9:16 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and
>>>>>> imperial sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE
>>>>> scale on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>>
>>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other.
>>>> ;-) They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I
>>>> don't
>>>> remember).
>>>>
>>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>>>
>>
>> Well - that's ok for you guys that call things good enough. For me -
>> I do
>> the dial caliper thing, and then I hit the wrench with my mig welder
>> to make
>> sure it won't move. Ya can never be too safe ya know...
>>
>
>
> Safer still, weld the adjustable wrench to the nut!
Nah. I simply weld a handle onto each nut before I use it.
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On 2/12/2014 11:20 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>>>>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>>>> on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>>
>>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
>>>
>>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>>> remember).
>>>
>> True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>> with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
>
> ;-)
>
> How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
> fits?
Then what would I use the caliper for?
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woodchucker wrote:
> I just glue my wrenches to my nuts :-)
Don't that hurt when you try to sit down?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 20:14:36 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/9/2014 6:36 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:06:20 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/9/2014 11:26 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
>>>
><snip>
>>
>> How many kitchens and baths last 85 years, anymore? *LONG* before
>> that, they're gutted and replaced with the new toys.
>>
>>
>And, how many old homes have trashed the plaster and replaced with
>shitrock? Plaster has a feel, texture and density that can't be
>replicated. And nobody has mold problems with it as it has no cellulose.
So you like horse-hair plaster, too? A friend ripped a bunch of it
out of his house (built between 1800 and 1803).
On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:13 -0500, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/11/2014 8:05 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>>>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>>>
>>> I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>>> on one side, and a metric on the other.
>>
>> I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
>>
>> They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
>> remember).
>>
>True. They're not nearly accurate enough. I set my adjustable wrenches
>with a dial caliper before applying them to the nut.
;-)
How about just putting it on the nut and turning the knob until it
fits?
>
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>http://www.avast.com
G. Ross wrote:
> The belt on my bandsaw is slipping. I have tightened it as far as the
> motor will move already. I decided to take it and get a new belt.
> Now the good part. The lower wheel will have to be removed. It is
> held on the shaft by a 26mm nut. Can't use an adjustable wrench
> because the wheel protrudes around the nut. Of all the sockets I have
> accumulated in the past 50 years, there is no 26 mm socket. I either
> order a socket to fit the nut or cut off the flange that surrounds it.
>
> I ordered a socket. It is probably made in Taiwan like the bandsaw.
> Got to love those far-thinking Chinese.
Received the socket today. A very nice looking socket. And it WAS
made in Taiwan.
--
GW Ross
Free advice is worth what you pay for
it
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:34:49 -0500, Jeff Thies <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/10/2014 7:22 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:12:48 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Greg Guarino wrote:
><snip>
>
>> Yeah, I have several adjustable wrenches, in both metric and imperial
>> sizes. Some are both metric and imperial size. ;-)
>
>I know it's a joke, but I have exactly such a beast, with an SAE scale
>on one side, and a metric on the other.
I was referring to the "8in" on one side and "300mm" on the other. ;-)
They probably have the scale on them too (pretty useless, so I don't
remember).