trs80 wrote:
> why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish? what
> is a sanding sealer.
>
> I used ZAR wipe on stain and after asking the support dept they said i could
> put a poly or lacquer finish on it as long as I let it dry for 24 to 48
> hours after last application.
There are a lot of forums out there. Here is one I found for wood
turners, but same principal.
http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/finishing/sandingsealer.html
I use in on certain woods (oak, ash, walnut) to prevent the grain from
raising. Then lightly sand with 0000 steel wool. It seems to give a
superior base for when I wax. Just not sure about lacquer.
http://marcalanfreedman.com/
On Oct 31, 4:24 pm, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
> why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish? what
> is a sanding sealer.
Sanding sealer is a relatively inexpensive coating (compared to finish
topcoats) that seals the wood grain and is formulated to sand easily.
Whether it is required under a particular finish is the subject of some
debate. There are varying opinions on its correct usage.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Lacquer_without_sealer.html
R
ok thank you. Good inputs.
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Often a matter of preference and desire for a very smooth finish. I have
> used it on Oak to fill the grain and provide a smooth finish on a wood
> that can show surface irregularity over the open grain. I have also
> created very similar results by repeated sanding down to 600 grit. A LOT
> more work.
>
> RonB
>
>
> "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish?
>> what is a sanding sealer.
>>
>> I used ZAR wipe on stain and after asking the support dept they said i
>> could put a poly or lacquer finish on it as long as I let it dry for 24
>> to 48 hours after last application.
>>
>>
>
>
Often a matter of preference and desire for a very smooth finish. I have
used it on Oak to fill the grain and provide a smooth finish on a wood that
can show surface irregularity over the open grain. I have also created very
similar results by repeated sanding down to 600 grit. A LOT more work.
RonB
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish?
> what is a sanding sealer.
>
> I used ZAR wipe on stain and after asking the support dept they said i
> could put a poly or lacquer finish on it as long as I let it dry for 24 to
> 48 hours after last application.
>
>
"trs80" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish?
> what is a sanding sealer.
>
> I used ZAR wipe on stain and after asking the support dept they said i
> could put a poly or lacquer finish on it as long as I let it dry for
> 24 to 48 hours after last application.
>
>
Oak and many other woods will have little stray bit of fiber that will
stick up when a finish is applied. The sanding sealer will coat these
little bits and make it easy to sand them away. The result is a
flawlessly smooth finish instead of one that that has little bumps all
over it. Try spraying some lacquer on a bit of scrap and you will see
what I am talking about.
trs80 <[email protected]> wrote:
: why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish? what
: is a sanding sealer.
Sanding sealer is a version of the same finish you'll be using to
topcoat, but one that is easier to sand. You put it on to seal
the wood, sand, then apply (coats of) the topcoat.
-- Andy Barss
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 21:24:54 GMT, "trs80" <[email protected]> wrote:
>why is it recommend to put a sanding sealer on before lacquer finish? what
>is a sanding sealer.
>
>I used ZAR wipe on stain and after asking the support dept they said i could
>put a poly or lacquer finish on it as long as I let it dry for 24 to 48
>hours after last application.
I've never used it at home- but I have used it in a cabinet shop, and
it really does make a difference to the final topcoat. It dries fast,
sands easily, and leaves a surface like glass. When the topcoat goes
on, it lays a lot flatter, and does not need to be "built" with
multiple applications.
Nice stuff, really. It's worth trying out at least once to see if you
like the effect. Particularly good if you go for high-gloss
finishing. The only problem- and the reason I don't use it at home-
is that the surface is almost *too* smooth. The finished product
feels less like wood than I like it to.