OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press. It
will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in diameter and
about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8" hole the full length.
What would be the best sequence of operation? My stock is 2" square and
normally I would just put it in the lathe and turn it. I could stop, while
it is a perfect cylinder (not yet contoured) and put it in my metal lathe to
drill/bore the length. BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick
up the headstock end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride
against.
Suggestions heartily solicited.
Ivan Vegvary
THANK YOU EVERYBODY. I will use the dowel methods suggested. Never would
have occured to me. This group is great.
Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ieGXe.3367$yN1.2413@trnddc03...
> OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
> I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press. It
> will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in diameter
> and about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8" hole the full
> length. What would be the best sequence of operation? My stock is 2"
> square and normally I would just put it in the lathe and turn it. I could
> stop, while it is a perfect cylinder (not yet contoured) and put it in my
> metal lathe to drill/bore the length. BUT back at the wood lathe my spur
> would still pick up the headstock end, but the tailstock would have
> nothing (a hole) to ride against.
> Suggestions heartily solicited.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 21:39:26 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote:
>OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
>I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press. It
>will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in diameter and
>about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8" hole the full length.
>What would be the best sequence of operation? My stock is 2" square and
>normally I would just put it in the lathe and turn it. I could stop, while
>it is a perfect cylinder (not yet contoured) and put it in my metal lathe to
>drill/bore the length. BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick
>up the headstock end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride
>against.
>Suggestions heartily solicited.
>
>Ivan Vegvary
>
I did a set of handles with a "through" hole.. I found that the easiest way was
to drill the stock first, then use the drill chuck in the headstock and chuck a
3/8" piece of threaded ron in it and use it for a "mandrel" with a washer and
lock nut on each end of the handles...
Another simple way to hold it is with friction, which is a lot safer....
Drill the stock first... always easier to keep true that way..
Turn a taper on 2 short pieces of 1/2" or 5/8" dowel, stick in both ends and
turn between centers, using the pressure between the centers to hold the tapers
in the hole..
As Lobby mentioned, check out rec.crafts.woodturning
It's a great group, most of whom also hang out here at the wRECk..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Drill the hole first and plug it with a dowel.
Turn on the wood lathe then drive the dowel out.
Art
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ieGXe.3367$yN1.2413@trnddc03...
> OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
> I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press. It
> will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in diameter and
> about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8" hole the full length.
> What would be the best sequence of operation? My stock is 2" square and
> normally I would just put it in the lathe and turn it. I could stop, while
> it is a perfect cylinder (not yet contoured) and put it in my metal lathe to
> drill/bore the length. BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick
> up the headstock end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride
> against.
> Suggestions heartily solicited.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>
Bruce Barnett <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick up the headstock
>>end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride against.
>
> Well, you can get a cone-shaped live tail center. This pointy thing
> fits inside the drilled out hole ini your stock.
>
> Woodcraft has one for $15
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4436
>
> I'm not sure if it's large enough. Larger ones may go for $40.
>
> Harbor freight has one for $20.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40090
>
> You might be able to make your own since you have a lathe. Does the
> point of your live center come out? Turn your own and put it in.
> First drill a hole for a dowel, and glue. Chuck the dowel and turn a
> cone. A drill chuck from Harbor Freight is $10, and very useful
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42340
>
>
> You can also do the drilling on the lathe. You use a lamp auger, and
> matching hollow center to go with your lathe. Trouble is, this costs
> $60+$10. The drill length is 36". I think Harbor Freight has some
> long augers for a lower price. I never tried it.
>
>
> You can also split the wood in half, use a router w/ core box bit,
> reglue and shape.
>
> I think the first option is the best (lowest cost).
>
>
You beat me. Same advice as I would have given except I didn't think of
the roll your own version.
Hank
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote:
> OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
> I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press.
> It will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in
> diameter and about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8"
> hole the full length. What would be the best sequence of operation?
> My stock is 2" square and normally I would just put it in the lathe
> and turn it. I could stop, while it is a perfect cylinder (not yet
> contoured) and put it in my metal lathe to drill/bore the length. BUT
> back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick up the headstock end,
> but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride against.
> Suggestions heartily solicited.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>
>
Ivan,
You might want to post this to rec.crafts.woodturning. You'll get help
here, but RCW is exclusively turning - when it's not OT. :o)
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> writes:
>BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick up the headstock
>end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride against.
Well, you can get a cone-shaped live tail center. This pointy thing
fits inside the drilled out hole ini your stock.
Woodcraft has one for $15
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4436
I'm not sure if it's large enough. Larger ones may go for $40.
Harbor freight has one for $20.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40090
You might be able to make your own since you have a lathe. Does the
point of your live center come out? Turn your own and put it in.
First drill a hole for a dowel, and glue. Chuck the dowel and turn a
cone. A drill chuck from Harbor Freight is $10, and very useful
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42340
You can also do the drilling on the lathe. You use a lamp auger, and
matching hollow center to go with your lathe. Trouble is, this costs
$60+$10. The drill length is 36". I think Harbor Freight has some
long augers for a lower price. I never tried it.
You can also split the wood in half, use a router w/ core box bit,
reglue and shape.
I think the first option is the best (lowest cost).
--
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$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 21:39:26 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>OK, I've done a lot of turning, but nothing that needed to be drilled.
>I volunteered to make a replacement handle for an antique cider press. It
>will be cylindrical, ergonomically shaped, about 1.5 inches in diameter and
>about 5 inches long. PROBLEM, I need to drill a 3/8" hole the full length.
>What would be the best sequence of operation? My stock is 2" square and
>normally I would just put it in the lathe and turn it. I could stop, while
>it is a perfect cylinder (not yet contoured) and put it in my metal lathe to
>drill/bore the length. BUT back at the wood lathe my spur would still pick
>up the headstock end, but the tailstock would have nothing (a hole) to ride
>against.
>Suggestions heartily solicited.
>
>Ivan Vegvary
>
Drill the hole FIRST, else the hole will not be perfectly centered.
Drill, tap a 3/8" dowel into the hole, turn, remove the dowel. You
may or may not need the dowel depending on what attachments you have
available for the tail. You could hold the dowel with a Jacobs chuck
fit into the head or tail.