"Yves" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Hi,
>
> Can you give me some advice on perchasing a good quality home user for a
> compressor based HVLP spray gun, it won't be (at least for near future) be
> an every day use.
>
> The usage for it would be painting lacquer primarily, kitchen cabinet
doors,
> drawers, home made speakers etc.
See if you can get Mike G. to have a go at your question ... I liked his
attitude/experience about, and with, HVLP. Or do a Google search.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
Check out the Titan. Nice machine.
SH
"Yves" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> Can you give me some advice on perchasing a good quality home user for a
> compressor based HVLP spray gun, it won't be (at least for near future) be
> an every day use.
>
> The usage for it would be painting lacquer primarily, kitchen cabinet
doors,
> drawers, home made speakers etc.
>
>
I like the Porter Cable (Devilbis) PSH1. You can get different tips for it but
the tip that comes with (1.5) works for the better qulaity waterborne paints
Target PSL my choise).
In my thinking, gravity feed is easier and better for most of what I do. It
uses less air pressure and all the pressure goes into the atomiszation f the
paint.
In article <[email protected]>,
Bernie Hunt wrote:
> I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
> rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
> definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
> time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window and
> door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
Would you mind elaborating on the "paint walls with it" comment? I'm planning
on doing my whole garage with one... an Apollo conversion gun with a 2.5 gallon
pressure pot. Have I made a terrible mistake?
Ed Clarke wrote:
>
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bernie Hunt wrote:
>
> > I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
> > rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
> > definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
> > time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window and
> > door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
>
> Would you mind elaborating on the "paint walls with it" comment? I'm planning
> on doing my whole garage with one... an Apollo conversion gun with a 2.5 gallon
> pressure pot. Have I made a terrible mistake?
I have a conversion gun, which I am sure is slower than your Apollo,
and painted the ceilings of five rooms and a hall (all with popcorn
ceilings). My gun was quite a bit slower than a regular gun but of
course the overspray (really the floating aerosol of paint) was
practically zero compared to the regular gun.
So the answer is, no you didn't make a terrible mistake, but it may
take you 2-3 times as long as using a regular gun. You will get
better coverage, may get a better surface, and will certainly have
less overspray.
What about for painting trim and for cut-in in corners before painting a
room w/ a roller? If not, suggestions?
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 20:55:17 -0400, Wally Goffeney <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The item listed in the Lee Valley catalog is actually "The Critter",
>see:
>
>http://users.imag.net/~lon.critterspray/
>
>I have it, and it is very handy because it is so easy to set up and
>clean up. But, I haven't tried to use it for any fine finishing work,
>just to spray sealant on outdoor cedar arbor and fence, and Adirondack
>chairs.
>
>Has a small fan pattern, and limited adjustability.
>
>I don't think it would be very good for furniture/cabinet finishing.
>
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 12:57:45 -0700, "J" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> for cut-in in corners before painting a
>> room w/ a roller? If not, suggestions?
>
>Purdy 3" sash brush. A tiny little sprayer for that would be ridiculous.
>
>-Jack
>
True. But (I did not mention this so you could not know) I am thinking of
1x6 base moulding plus an OG cap. I agree, if just for cut-in, a bursh is
best - but if I had the sprayer set up ... Thanks.
Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> It works fine....
>
> BUT it is NOT a big league HIGH VOLUME spray gun.
>
> It's more of "air brush" kinda of gun. It does
> work quite well for what it is.
>
> It will in fact shoot paint,stain,varnish,etc,etc.
>
> It will do it VERY slowly but for smaller stuff, it
> works great.
>
> It's great to shoot enamel paint for equipment.
>
>
>
>
> igor wrote:
>
> > No. I have no idea. I suppose I should start a thread on it.
> >
Don't forget about the 30 second clean-up. The critter rules!
It works fine....
BUT it is NOT a big league HIGH VOLUME spray gun.
It's more of "air brush" kinda of gun. It does
work quite well for what it is.
It will in fact shoot paint,stain,varnish,etc,etc.
It will do it VERY slowly but for smaller stuff, it
works great.
It's great to shoot enamel paint for equipment.
igor wrote:
> No. I have no idea. I suppose I should start a thread on it.
>
Hi,
Thanks all for the advices,
Can you give me advice on the proportion normally used to "thin" oil paint
or lacquer, or is it just try an error?
"Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de
news:[email protected]...
> Big difference between conventional spraying and HVLP. HVLP has virtually
no
> overspray. Have you seen the guys at trade shows spraying black paint onto
a
> pad of paper with no overspray on teh floor below them. I used my Apollo
to
> so some very involved moldings that would have been a pain to paint with a
> brush. I used 9" masking paper and painters tape to issolate the areas to
> paint, put a drop cloth on the floor incase I dropped the gun and didn't
> even use a mask for part of it. I was spraying regular oil based enamal
> thined with mineral spirits. The finish was incretable compared to
brushing.
> No marks and paint in all the cracks and crannies. With an HVLP gun, the
air
> supply is constant, you adjust the amount of material you are spraying.
You
> can put it on thin or thick or anywhere in between. An you don't waste a
lot
> of extra coating by blowing it into the air as overspray.
>
> I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
> rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
> definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
> time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window
and
> door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
>
> I have no concerns about using HVLP inside. The coatings go where you put
> them, not into the air as overspray!
>
> Bernie
>
> "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
> >
> > On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:31:22 -0400, Wally Goffeney
<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would
> > >want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for
> > >interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know
> > >about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.
> > >
>
>
Your gun will most likely come with a viscosity cup. Its a cup with a hole
in the bottom. You fill the cup with coating and time how long it takes to
drain. For example, I know that tap water takes 15 seconds. Your gun with
then say what needle and nossle to use for each viscosity rating.
I talked to Benjamin Moore, who makes the enamel I used, and they said I
could think up to 10 or 15%. I forget which. I actually thinned about 25%.
The viscosity was still quite thick, but I used a large nossel and needle
and it worked. You gun will probably come with some guidelines about how
much you can thin different types of materials. Also the manufacturors will
usually give you some guildelines also. I sprayed some anti graffiti paint
that was really nasty stuff. The manufacturor even published which nossle
size to use with HVLP. (BTW, the paint came out great and it really works,
you can clean off graffiti with paint thinner and the original paint still
looks great!)
Worse case, if you have all the different sized tips, then if it isn't
spraying like you want, then you change to tip up or down.
One thing I noticed is that the manufacturors tech sheets say don't thin. I
call BM and asked about that, and they said its due to air quality
guidelines regarding VOCs. For liablity reasons they say don't thin, but off
the record, everybody thins.
Bernie
"Yves" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> Thanks all for the advices,
>
> Can you give me advice on the proportion normally used to "thin" oil paint
> or lacquer, or is it just try an error?
>
>
>
>
> "Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de
> news:[email protected]...
> > Big difference between conventional spraying and HVLP. HVLP has
virtually
> no
> > overspray. Have you seen the guys at trade shows spraying black paint
onto
> a
> > pad of paper with no overspray on teh floor below them. I used my Apollo
> to
> > so some very involved moldings that would have been a pain to paint with
a
> > brush. I used 9" masking paper and painters tape to issolate the areas
to
> > paint, put a drop cloth on the floor incase I dropped the gun and didn't
> > even use a mask for part of it. I was spraying regular oil based enamal
> > thined with mineral spirits. The finish was incretable compared to
> brushing.
> > No marks and paint in all the cracks and crannies. With an HVLP gun, the
> air
> > supply is constant, you adjust the amount of material you are spraying.
> You
> > can put it on thin or thick or anywhere in between. An you don't waste a
> lot
> > of extra coating by blowing it into the air as overspray.
> >
> > I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
> > rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
> > definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
> > time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window
> and
> > door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
> >
> > I have no concerns about using HVLP inside. The coatings go where you
put
> > them, not into the air as overspray!
> >
> > Bernie
> >
> > "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
> > >
> > > On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:31:22 -0400, Wally Goffeney
> <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would
> > > >want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for
> > > >interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know
> > > >about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.
> > > >
> >
> >
>
>
I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would
want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for
interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know
about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 01:16:17 GMT, igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>What about for painting trim and for cut-in in corners before painting a
>room w/ a roller? If not, suggestions?
>
>On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 20:55:17 -0400, Wally Goffeney <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>The item listed in the Lee Valley catalog is actually "The Critter",
>>see:
>>
>>http://users.imag.net/~lon.critterspray/
>>
>>I have it, and it is very handy because it is so easy to set up and
>>clean up. But, I haven't tried to use it for any fine finishing work,
>>just to spray sealant on outdoor cedar arbor and fence, and Adirondack
>>chairs.
>>
>>Has a small fan pattern, and limited adjustability.
>>
>>I don't think it would be very good for furniture/cabinet finishing.
>>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
No. I have no idea. I suppose I should start a thread on it.
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:58:27 -0400, "Yves"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Did you test it?
>
>Or know someone used it, what about over spray?
>
>Thanks
>
>"igor" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de news:
>[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:34:19 GMT, "Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months
>and
>> >have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on
>some
>> >very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint
>for
>> >the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion
>guns
>> >work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
>> >
>> >The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean),
>a
>> >wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I
>like
>> >the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this
>> >idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with
>> >Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes
>on
>> >the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup
>> >after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
>>
>> The same storage/cleaning concept has me looking at this:
>>
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=20048&category=
>1,190,43034
>>
>> If it were not Lee Valley, I might well pass as being unlikely to work
>> well. But, it is LV. - Igor
>
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:34:19 GMT, "Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months and
>have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on some
>very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint for
>the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion guns
>work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
>
>The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean), a
>wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I like
>the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this
>idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with
>Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes on
>the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup
>after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
The same storage/cleaning concept has me looking at this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=20048&category=1,190,43034
If it were not Lee Valley, I might well pass as being unlikely to work
well. But, it is LV. - Igor
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> for cut-in in corners before painting a
> room w/ a roller? If not, suggestions?
Purdy 3" sash brush. A tiny little sprayer for that would be ridiculous.
-Jack
I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months and
have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on some
very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint for
the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion guns
work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean), a
wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I like
the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this
idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with
Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes on
the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup
after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
Bernie
"Yves" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> Can you give me some advice on perchasing a good quality home user for a
> compressor based HVLP spray gun, it won't be (at least for near future) be
> an every day use.
>
> The usage for it would be painting lacquer primarily, kitchen cabinet
doors,
> drawers, home made speakers etc.
>
>
That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:31:22 -0400, Wally Goffeney <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would
>want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for
>interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know
>about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.
>
Did you test it?
Or know someone used it, what about over spray?
Thanks
"igor" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de news:
[email protected]...
> On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:34:19 GMT, "Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months
and
> >have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on
some
> >very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint
for
> >the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion
guns
> >work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
> >
> >The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean),
a
> >wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I
like
> >the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this
> >idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with
> >Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes
on
> >the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup
> >after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
>
> The same storage/cleaning concept has me looking at this:
>
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=20048&category=
1,190,43034
>
> If it were not Lee Valley, I might well pass as being unlikely to work
> well. But, it is LV. - Igor
The item listed in the Lee Valley catalog is actually "The Critter",
see:
http://users.imag.net/~lon.critterspray/
I have it, and it is very handy because it is so easy to set up and
clean up. But, I haven't tried to use it for any fine finishing work,
just to spray sealant on outdoor cedar arbor and fence, and Adirondack
chairs.
Has a small fan pattern, and limited adjustability.
I don't think it would be very good for furniture/cabinet finishing.
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:58:27 -0400, "Yves"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Did you test it?
>
>Or know someone used it, what about over spray?
>
>Thanks
>
>"igor" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de news:
>[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:34:19 GMT, "Bernie Hunt" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
<big snip>
>on
>> >the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup
>> >after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
>>
>> The same storage/cleaning concept has me looking at this:
>>
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=20048&category=
>1,190,43034
>>
>> If it were not Lee Valley, I might well pass as being unlikely to work
>> well. But, it is LV. - Igor
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
Big difference between conventional spraying and HVLP. HVLP has virtually no
overspray. Have you seen the guys at trade shows spraying black paint onto a
pad of paper with no overspray on teh floor below them. I used my Apollo to
so some very involved moldings that would have been a pain to paint with a
brush. I used 9" masking paper and painters tape to issolate the areas to
paint, put a drop cloth on the floor incase I dropped the gun and didn't
even use a mask for part of it. I was spraying regular oil based enamal
thined with mineral spirits. The finish was incretable compared to brushing.
No marks and paint in all the cracks and crannies. With an HVLP gun, the air
supply is constant, you adjust the amount of material you are spraying. You
can put it on thin or thick or anywhere in between. An you don't waste a lot
of extra coating by blowing it into the air as overspray.
I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window and
door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
I have no concerns about using HVLP inside. The coatings go where you put
them, not into the air as overspray!
Bernie
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
>
> On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:31:22 -0400, Wally Goffeney <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would
> >want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for
> >interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know
> >about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.
> >
Ed,
You have the piece I don't, a pressure pot. I just have the quart cup and
the smaller probably cup sized container. Figuring with the thining and all,
it would take me probably 6 refills to spray a gallon of paint. Actually,
now you've got me thinking. Maybe it wouldn't be that bad to shoot, refill,
shoot refill, etc. With your pressure pot, you'll be in great shape. Figure
on a large nossle and use flotrol. Let me know how it comes out. Mybe I will
use it for the walls downstairs.
Bernie
"Ed Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Bernie Hunt wrote:
>
> > I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4
> > rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will
> > definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less
> > time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window
and
> > door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
>
> Would you mind elaborating on the "paint walls with it" comment? I'm
planning
> on doing my whole garage with one... an Apollo conversion gun with a 2.5
gallon
> pressure pot. Have I made a terrible mistake?