I refinished my 50 year old red oak floors last year, but I left one
4'x4' spot in the entryway unfinished. At the time, the entryway was
covered in two layers of old tile with tar and tar paper holding it
down. I finlly got all that out, and I want to match the two
sections.
What's the best way? I used four coats of satin finish oil based
varathane with no stain. The existing finish meets the raw wood along
the long seam between two boards. I was thinking lightly sanding one
existing board, then doing three coats of varathane on the raw wood,
and a final fourth coat on the whole thing, including one board wide
of the old floor. Will that match well?
Also, I was thinking of taping off the existing floor with blue 3m
masking tape so I don't get varathane on the finished floor. Is there
something better than masking tape?
Thanks in advance.
~Paul
It appears that the finish never bonded to the wood. I would not be
surprised if you have more problems. It looks like a strip, sand and
refinish from here.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Current project: http://home.comcast.net/~cabierbaum/
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd be happy to, but since we've had it for about 7 years now, that's
> probably not going to happen ;)
>
> Does age and UV cause a finish to weaken then? Not that it might
> still have been a poorly applied finish in the first place mind you...
>
> Mike
>
> "Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Any cured finish that won't stand 2 hours of 3M blue tape, or even
regular
> > masking tape, is not properly applied. If your table is still under
> > warranty; return it.
> >
Paul,
Be careful with the blue 3m tape on your floor finish. I put some 3m
blue tape on our kitchen table for a card game we were playing and
when we pulled it off after we were done (1-2hours later) it ripped
the finish and some of the underlying wood off in 2 places. GACK!! I
didn't build the table so I assume it's a poly-varnish finish, but
just thought I'd pass that on so you don't get the same reaction.
I've noticed various masking tapes made for paint (3m blue) and clear
finishes or something like that (pink or purple). Don't know if they
make a difference or should make a difference or if something else was
seriously wrong with my table beforehand, your experience my differ...
Good luck,
Mike
[email protected] (Paul Huber) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
[snip]
> Also, I was thinking of taping off the existing floor with blue 3m
> masking tape so I don't get varathane on the finished floor. Is there
> something better than masking tape?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> ~Paul
I'd be happy to, but since we've had it for about 7 years now, that's
probably not going to happen ;)
Does age and UV cause a finish to weaken then? Not that it might
still have been a poorly applied finish in the first place mind you...
Mike
"Alan Bierbaum" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Any cured finish that won't stand 2 hours of 3M blue tape, or even regular
> masking tape, is not properly applied. If your table is still under
> warranty; return it.
>
Any cured finish that won't stand 2 hours of 3M blue tape, or even regular
masking tape, is not properly applied. If your table is still under
warranty; return it.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Current project: http://home.comcast.net/~cabierbaum/
"Mike in Idaho" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Paul,
>
> Be careful with the blue 3m tape on your floor finish. I put some 3m
> blue tape on our kitchen table for a card game we were playing and
> when we pulled it off after we were done (1-2hours later) it ripped
> the finish and some of the underlying wood off in 2 places. GACK!! I
> didn't build the table so I assume it's a poly-varnish finish, but
> just thought I'd pass that on so you don't get the same reaction.
>
> I've noticed various masking tapes made for paint (3m blue) and clear
> finishes or something like that (pink or purple). Don't know if they
> make a difference or should make a difference or if something else was
> seriously wrong with my table beforehand, your experience my differ...
>
> Good luck,
> Mike
>
> [email protected] (Paul Huber) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> [snip]
>
> > Also, I was thinking of taping off the existing floor with blue 3m
> > masking tape so I don't get varathane on the finished floor. Is there
> > something better than masking tape?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > ~Paul
I would just match it fairly closely, and then let the wear and tear of
daily use do the rest for you. I was fretting about getting an exact
match on some additional flooring I was adding to a room. I just took a
guess (although a lucky one ;-) and after a while of use, you couldn't
tell the old from the new.
As long as the old doesn't meet the new across any single board, any
minor variation will look just like a natural difference in the wood.
Let us know how it turns out. But remember to give it time for both
floors to 'equalize'. Mark L.
Paul Huber wrote:
> I refinished my 50 year old red oak floors last year, but I left one
> 4'x4' spot in the entryway unfinished. At the time, the entryway was
> covered in two layers of old tile with tar and tar paper holding it
> down. I finlly got all that out, and I want to match the two
> sections.
>
> What's the best way? I used four coats of satin finish oil based
> varathane with no stain. The existing finish meets the raw wood along
> the long seam between two boards. I was thinking lightly sanding one
> existing board, then doing three coats of varathane on the raw wood,
> and a final fourth coat on the whole thing, including one board wide
> of the old floor. Will that match well?
>
> Also, I was thinking of taping off the existing floor with blue 3m
> masking tape so I don't get varathane on the finished floor. Is there
> something better than masking tape?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> ~Paul