I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta. The
owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect, according
to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a table saw and
prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What do you think?
David Starr wrote:
> Curran Copeland wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
>> Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do that
>> the TS can't but none the other way around.
>>
> You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
> forward on a table saw.
>
If I understand what you're saying, I think a half aux table on the RAS
would allow you to raise the work so that you could cut them with the
blade bevel set horizontally. Also, if I understand what you're saying,
a RAS can cut the finger joints in any length board (if you open a
door or window) whereas the work has to be run vertically on the TS.
I'd go for it
"SBH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
>The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
>guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
>according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
>table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
>do you think?
>
SBH wrote:
> I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta. The
> owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
> guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect, according
> to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a table saw and
> prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What do you think?
>
>
That's a fair price. I see plenty of them on Craigslist for about that.
Delta is a good name. Check the size, I perfer a 10 inch model over
an 8 incher. A radial arm saw will make all the cuts a table saw will
with just one minor exception. If it runs and cuts and you like it then
it's worth it. If you go for it, think about splurging on a new carbide
blade. On the other hand, if you don't like it, there are plenty more
out on Craigslist.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Curran Copeland wrote:
>>
>> Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
> Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do that the
> TS can't but none the other way around.
>
>
You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
forward on a table saw.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Doug Winterburn wrote:
> David Starr wrote:
>> Curran Copeland wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
>>> Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do
>>> that the TS can't but none the other way around.
>>>
>> You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
>> forward on a table saw.
>>
>
> If I understand what you're saying, I think a half aux table on the RAS
> would allow you to raise the work so that you could cut them with the
> blade bevel set horizontally. Also, if I understand what you're saying,
> a RAS can cut the finger joints in any length board (if you open a door
> or window) whereas the work has to be run vertically on the TS.
I made such a table, and use it for cutting tenons and thru mortices
with the sawblade in the horizontal position. To do fingerlap joints
with that table, you would have to raise the power head with the column
height crank to do each finger. Without far greater precision than I
can manage, the finger spacing would not be uniform enough for two
pieces to mate up and fit tightly. With a table saw, you fix a wooden
key to the miter guide that slips into the freshly cut finger and spaces
the next finger cut just right. The board is held vertically to the
table for this trick.
With the key jig on the table saw, the fingerlap joints will fit
together tightly.
I only use fingerlap joints for things like boxes and drawers, so
overhead clearance has never been a problem for me. As it is, I have
just a radial arm saw, and when I need to do fingerlap joints I take the
job over to a relative who has a table saw.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
"SBH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
>The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
>guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
>according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
>table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
>do you think?
>
As long as you have the space and a use for it, go for it.
"David Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SBH wrote:
>> I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
>> The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
>> guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
>> according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
>> table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
>> do you think?
> That's a fair price. I see plenty of them on Craigslist for about that.
> Delta is a good name. Check the size, I perfer a 10 inch model over an 8
> incher. A radial arm saw will make all the cuts a table saw will with
> just one minor exception. If it runs and cuts and you like it then it's
> worth it. If you go for it, think about splurging on a new carbide blade.
> On the other hand, if you don't like it, there are plenty more out on
> Craigslist.
>
>
> --
> David J. Starr
>
> Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do that the
TS can't but none the other way around.
SBH wrote:
> I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by
> Delta. The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact
> age, but is guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and
> works
> perfect, according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because
> he bought a table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking
> $75 for it. What do you think?
Assuming it actually works and you can move it without getting a
hernia, go for it.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
David Starr wrote:
> Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> David Starr wrote:
>>> Curran Copeland wrote:
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
>>>> Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do
>>>> that the TS can't but none the other way around.
>>>>
>>> You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
>>> forward on a table saw.
>>>
>>
>> If I understand what you're saying, I think a half aux table on the
>> RAS would allow you to raise the work so that you could cut them with
>> the blade bevel set horizontally. Also, if I understand what you're
>> saying, a RAS can cut the finger joints in any length board (if you
>> open a door or window) whereas the work has to be run vertically on
>> the TS.
>
> I made such a table, and use it for cutting tenons and thru mortices
> with the sawblade in the horizontal position. To do fingerlap joints
> with that table, you would have to raise the power head with the column
> height crank to do each finger. Without far greater precision than I
> can manage, the finger spacing would not be uniform enough for two
> pieces to mate up and fit tightly. With a table saw, you fix a wooden
> key to the miter guide that slips into the freshly cut finger and spaces
> the next finger cut just right. The board is held vertically to the
> table for this trick.
> With the key jig on the table saw, the fingerlap joints will fit
> together tightly.
> I only use fingerlap joints for things like boxes and drawers, so
> overhead clearance has never been a problem for me. As it is, I have
> just a radial arm saw, and when I need to do fingerlap joints I take the
> job over to a relative who has a table saw.
>
I didn't understand - you're talking box joints. I was thinking finger
joints running with the width of a board so as to join two boards end to
end.
"SBH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
>The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
>guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
>according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
>table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
>do you think?
>
I got one a few years ago for $50. Needed a few parts which you can still
get. http://www.mikestools.com/Delta-Radial-Arm-Saws-Parts-Lists_2290.aspx
Mine works great
mike