My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
you can offer.
There is this much older Grizzly TS
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
asking price.
Also this Bosch portable model
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
Thank you
On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>
> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
> you can offer.
>
> There is this much older Grizzly TS
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
> asking price.
>
> Also this Bosch portable model
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>
> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>
> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>
> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
>
> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>
> Thank you
Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> It's been several years since I've looked at any Rigid saw so I really
> can't say for today's products. Back around 10 years or maybe a
> little less ago, they were a really good buy. Well built, lots of
> great features, great warranty, etc. I'd really have to look at what
> they are offering today before I could comment though. Hopefully
> others here have more updated knowledge than I do. Just be careful of
> the guys who start to raise concerns based upon nothing that they
> really know. A ton of that can happen here...
>
>
If you find an Ridgid 3650 or 3660 (same saw, different package) in good
condition, it's well worth purchasing. It's been a fantastic saw, except
I'm not too fond of the way the guard attaches.
Puckdropper
Dan Coby <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
On 6/18/2016 7:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>> If you find an Ridgid 3650 or 3660 (same saw, different package) in
>> good condition, it's well worth purchasing. It's been a fantastic
>> saw, except I'm not too fond of the way the guard attaches.
>
> What do you not like about the way that the guard attaches? I have the
> 3650 and I think that it is very simple to remove or replace the
> guard. All you have to do is twist one thumb screw.
>
> Now, if you had said that you did not like the original adjustment of
> the guard, then I would have agreed with you. I spent about an hour
> before I found the right technique and it involved the use of a hammer
> to get the splitter to be vertical.
>
> However, now that I have the guard set correctly, it goes off and on
> easily and is positioned correctly without anything more than
> tightening the thumb screw.
>
> Dan
>
>
I don't like where it attaches. It's so far back from the blade that any
misalignment is magnified when you use it. I wasn't too fond of the
thumbscrew design, as it didn't seem to lock the guard back in place at
exactly the same place so I'd have to adjust and check and adjust and
check and....
Hm... now that I think about it... I adjusted the fence long after I had
removed the guard pretty much permanently. Some of the issues I had with
alignment may have been caused or magnified by the fence being slightly
angled. (It's well worth checking your fence and blade to make sure
they're exactly parallel to the miter slot!)
Puckdropper
On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 2:07:19 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> On 6/18/2016 10:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
> > My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> > disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> > Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
> > would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
> > Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
> > there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
> > other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
> >
> > I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
> > you can offer.
> >
> > There is this much older Grizzly TS
> > http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
> > consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
> > asking price.
> >
> > Also this Bosch portable model
> > http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
> >
> > Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
> >
> > Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
> > http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
> >
> > There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
> > and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
> > some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
> >
> > If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
> > it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
> > above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
> >
> > Thank you
>
> I may start a war, with this comment.
>
> I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
> craftsman, not the elcheapo. I Have been using it for about 30 years
> and it is still quite functional.
>
> The Craftsman has a cast iron table with aluminum wings, giveing me
> about a 36 inch square working area. I did have a problem with the 1hp
> capacitor start motor that a repair man fixed for a couple of dollars
> and showed my how to fix it in the future. (Clean our the area of the
> motor where the capacitor is, and keep it clean.)
>
> Because Craftsman table saws are looked down on you should be able to
> get a good deal on the saw.
I have one about the same vintage with cast iron extensions. Nice saw, but I wish it was bit older (like the '40s or '50).
On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>
> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
> you can offer.
>
> There is this much older Grizzly TS
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
> asking price.
>
> Also this Bosch portable model
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>
> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>
> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>
> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
>
> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>
> Thank you
Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top again.
These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet saws
are.
Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one becomes
unusable.
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On 6/19/2016 10:54 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:UL6dnXbPn_RodPjKnZ2dnUU7-
> [email protected]:
>
>> On 6/18/2016 2:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>
>>>> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
>>>> again.
>>>> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
>>>> saws
>>>> are.
>>>> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
>>>> becomes unusable.
>>>
>>> I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
>>> if you don't require portability, I think you would be
>>> much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
>>> saw.
>>
>> Well that or go for a "new" portable bench top.
>
> Ah, I wouldn't agree with that point :-)
>
> I'm not a big fan of benchtop saws. I think a full size
> saw gives you more power, more precision, more durability,
> is more stable, and overall safer. So I wouldn't recommend
> a benchtop unless someone was very constrained on space,
> or actually needed to tote the saw places other than a shop.
>
> John
>
Well I'm not a fan either, I use a 700lb cabinet saw. But if you seldom
use a TS a bench top makes more sense. It all depends on how much you
use it and what you are cutting with it. Furniture, probably not. Bird
houses, not a big deal.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Meanie wrote:
> > On 6/18/2016 4:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> >> Meanie wrote:
> >>
> >>> I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
> >>> I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
> >>> easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
> >>> or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
> >>> mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
> >>
> >> Not sure why you're worrying about that. I've never had an issue with
> >> my motor hanging off the back. You have to remember, anything you cut
> >> is going to travel further than what the motor sticks out. There are no
> >> issues with the belts on this design as long as your belt is in good
> >> condition and your pulleys are as well. Mine is mounted on wheels and
> >> that poses absolutely no issues at all.
> >>
> >
> > Thanks for the info. What's your opinion on the Rigid brand?
>
> It's been several years since I've looked at any Rigid saw so I really
> can't say for today's products. Back around 10 years or maybe a little
> less ago, they were a really good buy. Well built, lots of great
> features, great warranty, etc. I'd really have to look at what they are
> offering today before I could comment though. Hopefully others here
> have more updated knowledge than I do. Just be careful of the guys who
> start to raise concerns based upon nothing that they really know. A ton
> of that can happen here...
I got one of the last of the TS3660s. It's been excellent. Very well
thought out design and well made. I don't know what they were thinking
with the replacement. The 3650/3660 addressed the big issue with
contractor-style saws, blade alignment, with an adjustment system that
makes the process trivially easy.
With the 4511/4512 that's gone and to make matters worse a lot of the
saws were sold with the adjustment holes incorrectly placed so that it
was not possible to achieve blade alignment without going after the
parts with a file or Dremel. Apparently this was addressed in mid-2013.
There's also a safety recall--don't use a dado set on a 4511 until
you've read the recall notice and checked serial numbers.
<https://www.ridgid.com/Media/Default/documents/safetynotices/R4511
_PR.pdf>
On 6/18/2016 2:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other
>>> day. I disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are
>>> shot. Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much
>>> as I would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna
>>> happen. Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and
>>> currently there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands
>>> and their value other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic,
>>> etc.
>>>
>>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything
>>> else you can offer.
>
>> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
>> again.
>> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
>> saws
>> are.
>> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
>> becomes unusable.
>
> I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
> if you don't require portability, I think you would be
> much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
> saw.
Well that or go for a "new" portable bench top.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other
>> day. I disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are
>> shot. Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much
>> as I would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna
>> happen. Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and
>> currently there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands
>> and their value other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic,
>> etc.
>>
>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything
>> else you can offer.
> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
> again.
> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
> saws
> are.
> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
> becomes unusable.
I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
if you don't require portability, I think you would be
much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
saw.
When you say "not sure I like the belt driven motor
sticking out", is that specific to the Ridgid, or a
generic concern about contractor style saws? If the
latter, I don't think you need worry - I've used that
style saw for ages, and don't recall ever having an
issue with the motor or belt.
John
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I don't like where it attaches. It's so far back from the blade that
> any misalignment is magnified when you use it. I wasn't too fond of
> the thumbscrew design, as it didn't seem to lock the guard back in
> place at exactly the same place so I'd have to adjust and check and
> adjust and check and....
I assume it's actually the splitter you're concerned about?
That's can be a valid issue - when I started woodworking I'd
take the guard and splitter off maybe once per year. Now,
even tho the guard is only on the saw maybe 20% of the time,
I'm frequently putting it on and taking it off (I use sleds
for crosscutting, dadoing, etc, which have their own guards
built on, so the factory guard/splitter is only on the saw
when I'm ripping).
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:UL6dnXbPn_RodPjKnZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
> On 6/18/2016 2:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
>>> again.
>>> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
>>> saws
>>> are.
>>> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
>>> becomes unusable.
>>
>> I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
>> if you don't require portability, I think you would be
>> much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
>> saw.
>
> Well that or go for a "new" portable bench top.
Ah, I wouldn't agree with that point :-)
I'm not a big fan of benchtop saws. I think a full size
saw gives you more power, more precision, more durability,
is more stable, and overall safer. So I wouldn't recommend
a benchtop unless someone was very constrained on space,
or actually needed to tote the saw places other than a shop.
John
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote in news:nk4a7o$h3t$1@dont-
email.me:
> I also replaced my
> cast iron wings with wings I built myself out of cherry for the banding
> and MDF for the surface material.
Y'know, that's a good idea. Dunno that I'd use cherry, but
I have half a sheet of MDF stuck in a corner somewhere crying
for a project to use it on. And slightly wider wings would
be useful.
John
Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> When you change project every thing not needed is rolled to it
> storage position.
>
> Point being with everything on wheels you have a very flexible work
> area that can be quite usable in a limited amount of space.
The counter point to that is that, when you start a new project
everything is in the wrong place and you have to move it all
before you can start (which is exactly what I do) :-)
To Meanie's point about the motor sticking out the back of
a contractor style saw - this is the one time you have to
worry about it. With the saw on a mobile base it's easy
to mis-judge how far back the motor is, and bang it into
things while moving the saw.
John
Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote in news:nk6jp2$581$1@dont-
email.me:
> John McCoy wrote:
>> To Meanie's point about the motor sticking out the back of
>> a contractor style saw - this is the one time you have to
>> worry about it. With the saw on a mobile base it's easy
>> to mis-judge how far back the motor is, and bang it into
>> things while moving the saw.
>
> Yeah, maybe, but that's not really a big issue to overcome. That seems
> like a reach to justify worrying about the motor hanging off the back. I
> have found that I can certainly deal with that issue.
Yes, you get used to allowing for it quickly enough.
And it's the only issue I've ever experienced with
the contractor style motor mount.
John
On 6/18/2016 7:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> It's been several years since I've looked at any Rigid saw so I really
>> can't say for today's products. Back around 10 years or maybe a
>> little less ago, they were a really good buy. Well built, lots of
>> great features, great warranty, etc. I'd really have to look at what
>> they are offering today before I could comment though. Hopefully
>> others here have more updated knowledge than I do. Just be careful of
>> the guys who start to raise concerns based upon nothing that they
>> really know. A ton of that can happen here...
>>
>>
>
> If you find an Ridgid 3650 or 3660 (same saw, different package) in good
> condition, it's well worth purchasing. It's been a fantastic saw, except
> I'm not too fond of the way the guard attaches.
What do you not like about the way that the guard attaches? I have the
3650 and I think that it is very simple to remove or replace the guard.
All you have to do is twist one thumb screw.
Now, if you had said that you did not like the original adjustment of
the guard, then I would have agreed with you. I spent about an hour
before I found the right technique and it involved the use of a hammer
to get the splitter to be vertical.
However, now that I have the guard set correctly, it goes off and on
easily and is positioned correctly without anything more than tightening
the thumb screw.
Dan
On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 3:07:19 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>
> I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
> craftsman, not the elcheapo.
I would imagine that a 10 foot table saw would not be an elcheapo.
I'd love to hear that thing come up to speed. ;-)
On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 10:18:20 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
> On 6/18/2016 10:23 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
> > On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
> >> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> >> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> >> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
> >> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
> >> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
> >> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
> >> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
> >>
> >> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
> >> you can offer.
> >>
> >> There is this much older Grizzly TS
> >> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
> >> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
> >> asking price.
> >>
> >> Also this Bosch portable model
> >> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
> >>
> >> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
> >>
> >> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
> >> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
> >>
> >> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
> >> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
> >> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
> >>
> >> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
> >> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
> >> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
> >>
> >> Thank you
> >
> > Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
> >
> NOt for the bearing itself but for the motor and that price was higher
> than the lowest I found elsewhere. I wish I could replace just the
> bearing but it appears to be pressed on, No screw/bolt to remove it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFfVLYReE8o
On 06/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. ...
Were you satisfied with the saw or needing/wanting to upgrade anyway?
Is the shaft itself gone/worn; if not why not just replace bearings if
question above is "no" or "not really" (to the second half, anyway :) ).
What's the motor rating/form just out of curiosity; seems a little steep
albeit not absurd...
--
On 6/18/2016 10:23 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
> On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
>> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
>> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
>> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
>> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
>> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
>> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>>
>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
>> you can offer.
>>
>> There is this much older Grizzly TS
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
>> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
>> asking price.
>>
>> Also this Bosch portable model
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>>
>> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>>
>> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>>
>> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
>> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
>> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
>>
>> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
>> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
>> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>>
>> Thank you
>
> Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
>
NOt for the bearing itself but for the motor and that price was higher
than the lowest I found elsewhere. I wish I could replace just the
bearing but it appears to be pressed on, No screw/bolt to remove it.
On 6/18/2016 10:52 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 06/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
>> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
>> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. ...
>
> Were you satisfied with the saw or needing/wanting to upgrade anyway?
Very satisfied. It was a good little saw and handled many big task for
at least 10 years. The reason I never went bigger was due to lack of space.
>
> Is the shaft itself gone/worn; if not why not just replace bearings if
> question above is "no" or "not really" (to the second half, anyway :) ).
The windings, shaft, bushings, etc all look good. That bottom bearing is
shot and per my reply above, appears to be pressed on otherwise I would
find another bearing to replace.
>
> What's the motor rating/form just out of curiosity; seems a little steep
> albeit not absurd...
>
> --
15 amp 110v. No HP rating though it can be converted.
"Meanie" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
I had one of those Dewalt 744's quite a while ago and used it for at least
ten years. I got it because it was portable enough to put into a dock cart
and take down to the dock where I was working on my boat. It was a good
little saw. The rack-and-pinion mechanism on the fence keeps the fence dead
parallel to the blade, with a useful range of 24 inches. There's stowage for
spare blades on the right-hand side under the table.
When I no longer needed it on the dock I sold it to a cabinetmaker friend
and he still uses it once in a while when he needs a saw at a job site. One
day the motor failed to start, but I was able to get it serviced under
warranty and never had trouble with it again. $180 sounds a little high to
me, though, but if it's not too old and has been well-cared-for it might be
an OK price.
Tom
On 6/18/2016 12:19 PM, Bob Villa wrote:
> On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 10:18:20 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
>> On 6/18/2016 10:23 AM, Bob Villa wrote:
>>> On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 9:20:22 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
>>>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
>>>> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
>>>> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
>>>> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
>>>> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
>>>> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
>>>> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>>>>
>>>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
>>>> you can offer.
>>>>
>>>> There is this much older Grizzly TS
>>>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
>>>> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
>>>> asking price.
>>>>
>>>> Also this Bosch portable model
>>>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>>>>
>>>> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>>>>
>>>> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
>>>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>>>>
>>>> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
>>>> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
>>>> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
>>>> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
>>>> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>>>>
>>>> Thank you
>>>
>>> Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
>>>
>> NOt for the bearing itself but for the motor and that price was higher
>> than the lowest I found elsewhere. I wish I could replace just the
>> bearing but it appears to be pressed on, No screw/bolt to remove it.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFfVLYReE8o
>
Here is the housing with internal contacts and brushes.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27472685740/in/dateposted-public/
Here are the windings with the shaft and bearing at top.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750844445/in/dateposted-public/
Here are the windings with bottom bearing and where it makes contact
with brushes. That bottom bearing is the shot one.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750846725/in/dateposted-public/
A closer view of it
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27750848235/in/dateposted-public/
And directly from bottom (or top) of that bearing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27138489684/in/dateposted-public/
On 6/18/2016 10:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>
> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
> you can offer.
>
> There is this much older Grizzly TS
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
> asking price.
>
> Also this Bosch portable model
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>
> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>
> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>
> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking out.
>
> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
> above. http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>
> Thank you
I may start a war, with this comment.
I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
craftsman, not the elcheapo. I Have been using it for about 30 years
and it is still quite functional.
The Craftsman has a cast iron table with aluminum wings, giveing me
about a 36 inch square working area. I did have a problem with the 1hp
capacitor start motor that a repair man fixed for a couple of dollars
and showed my how to fix it in the future. (Clean our the area of the
motor where the capacitor is, and keep it clean.)
Because Craftsman table saws are looked down on you should be able to
get a good deal on the saw.
On 06/18/2016 10:21 AM, Meanie wrote:
...
> The windings, shaft, bushings, etc all look good. That bottom bearing is
> shot and per my reply above, appears to be pressed on otherwise I would
> find another bearing to replace.
What's the problem? A small puller and away's ya' goes...looks like
it's been _way_ hot, just as a comment...
...
--
On 6/18/2016 1:17 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
>> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
>> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
>> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
>> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
>> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
>> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>>
>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
>> you can offer.
>>
>> There is this much older Grizzly TS
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
>> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
>> asking price.
>>
>> Also this Bosch portable model
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>>
>> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>>
>> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>>
>> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
>> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
>> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking
>> out.
>>
>> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
>> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
>> above.
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>>
>> Thank you
>
>
> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top again.
> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet saws
> are.
> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one becomes
> unusable.
Good point.
On 6/18/2016 3:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other
>>> day. I disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are
>>> shot. Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much
>>> as I would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna
>>> happen. Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and
>>> currently there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands
>>> and their value other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic,
>>> etc.
>>>
>>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything
>>> else you can offer.
>
>> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
>> again.
>> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
>> saws
>> are.
>> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
>> becomes unusable.
>
> I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
> if you don't require portability, I think you would be
> much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
> saw.
>
> When you say "not sure I like the belt driven motor
> sticking out", is that specific to the Ridgid, or a
> generic concern about contractor style saws? If the
> latter, I don't think you need worry - I've used that
> style saw for ages, and don't recall ever having an
> issue with the motor or belt.
>
> John
>
>
I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
On 6/18/2016 3:07 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 6/18/2016 10:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other day. I
>> disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are shot.
>> Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much as I
>> would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna happen.
>> Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and currently
>> there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands and their value
>> other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic, etc.
>>
>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything else
>> you can offer.
>>
>> There is this much older Grizzly TS
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5603285777.html that I may
>> consider (if I can fit it in my area) but not certain if it's worth the
>> asking price.
>>
>> Also this Bosch portable model
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tld/5579125284.html
>>
>> Dewalt http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/5613421892.html
>>
>> Grizzly - they're asking $325 for this one
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tld/5608081399.html
>>
>> There are many more but most are Craftsman which I'm staying away from
>> and a couple Rigids which I'm apprehensive about as well from reading
>> some reviews. Plus, I'm not sure I like the belt driven motor sticking
>> out.
>>
>> If anyone wants to see the others listed in my area and provide input,
>> it's appreciated, otherwise, I'll focus more so on what I provided
>> above.
>> http://detroit.craigslist.org/search/tla?sort=date&query=table%20saw
>>
>> Thank you
>
> I may start a war, with this comment.
>
> I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
> craftsman, not the elcheapo. I Have been using it for about 30 years
> and it is still quite functional.
>
> The Craftsman has a cast iron table with aluminum wings, giveing me
> about a 36 inch square working area. I did have a problem with the 1hp
> capacitor start motor that a repair man fixed for a couple of dollars
> and showed my how to fix it in the future. (Clean our the area of the
> motor where the capacitor is, and keep it clean.)
>
> Because Craftsman table saws are looked down on you should be able to
> get a good deal on the saw.
Agreed, older Craftsman tools are great, unfortunately, my mindset stays
focused on the last few decades and current stuff, thus, leaving
apprehension in it's wake.
Keith Nuttle wrote:
>
> I may start a war, with this comment.
Not with me you won't...
>
> I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
> craftsman, not the elcheapo. I Have been using it for about 30 years
> and it is still quite functional.
>
Me too. I replaced the motor on mine years ago and I also replaced my
cast iron wings with wings I built myself out of cherry for the banding
and MDF for the surface material. At the same time I installed a new
fence system that gives me 24" on each side of the blade. I tore it
down a year or two ago and replaced the arbor bearing as well as
installing new pulleys and a link belt. I also installed a paddle
switch located at my left knee cap so it is easy to shut off at the
completion of a cut. I invested in a Woodworker II at the same time.
It's a wonderful tool at this time. It was always a good saw, but it's
just a thing of beauty now. Oh - i had also invested the time to align
the blade to the miter slot several years ago.
>
> Because Craftsman table saws are looked down on you should be able to
> get a good deal on the saw.
No reason to look down on the cast iron saws - they are good saws that
can be turned into great saws for little cost.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Meanie wrote:
> I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
> I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
> easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
> or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
> mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
Not sure why you're worrying about that. I've never had an issue with
my motor hanging off the back. You have to remember, anything you cut
is going to travel further than what the motor sticks out. There are no
issues with the belts on this design as long as your belt is in good
condition and your pulleys are as well. Mine is mounted on wheels and
that poses absolutely no issues at all.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/18/2016 4:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Meanie wrote:
>
>> I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
>> I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
>> easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
>> or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
>> mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
>
> Not sure why you're worrying about that. I've never had an issue with
> my motor hanging off the back. You have to remember, anything you cut
> is going to travel further than what the motor sticks out. There are no
> issues with the belts on this design as long as your belt is in good
> condition and your pulleys are as well. Mine is mounted on wheels and
> that poses absolutely no issues at all.
>
Thanks for the info. What's your opinion on the Rigid brand?
Meanie wrote:
> On 6/18/2016 4:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Meanie wrote:
>>
>>> I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
>>> I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
>>> easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
>>> or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
>>> mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
>>
>> Not sure why you're worrying about that. I've never had an issue with
>> my motor hanging off the back. You have to remember, anything you cut
>> is going to travel further than what the motor sticks out. There are no
>> issues with the belts on this design as long as your belt is in good
>> condition and your pulleys are as well. Mine is mounted on wheels and
>> that poses absolutely no issues at all.
>>
>
> Thanks for the info. What's your opinion on the Rigid brand?
It's been several years since I've looked at any Rigid saw so I really
can't say for today's products. Back around 10 years or maybe a little
less ago, they were a really good buy. Well built, lots of great
features, great warranty, etc. I'd really have to look at what they are
offering today before I could comment though. Hopefully others here
have more updated knowledge than I do. Just be careful of the guys who
start to raise concerns based upon nothing that they really know. A ton
of that can happen here...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Meanie wrote:
>>>> Have you tried eBay for your Hitachi bearings?
>>>>
>>> NOt for the bearing itself but for the motor and that price was
>>> higher than the lowest I found elsewhere. I wish I could replace just
>>> the
>>> bearing but it appears to be pressed on, No screw/bolt to remove it.
Take it to a small motor repair shop. Odds are they will be able to replace
the bearing quite reasonably.
On 6/18/2016 8:48 PM, Leon wrote:
> ses and I cannot stress how much a mobile base on a TS makes close
> quarters work areas less troublesome.
This is something that I have always wondered why it did not get more press.
I first came across mobile desk when I was working in the laboratory.
We had many instruments and being mobile could be clustered as needed.
I currently have my table saw and work bench on wheels. The work bench
was made to be the same height as the table saw so it can be positioned
to be an out feed table when you are ripping on the table saw.
At other times the work bench is on the operator side of the table saw
and is a staging area for the pieces to be cut. I make a lot of
stretchers and picture frames. This means that if you are making a
lot of frames or stretchers you are going to have a pile of pieces to be
cut. It is nice to have every thing so you can reach it with a slight
turn.
I have even used the work bench to change the ceiling lights, as it can
be rolled under the light that needs to be change.
The work bench can be rolled over to the car or lawn tractor when you
are working on them.
When you change project every thing not needed is rolled to it storage
position.
Point being with everything on wheels you have a very flexible work area
that can be quite usable in a limited amount of space.
John McCoy wrote:
> To Meanie's point about the motor sticking out the back of
> a contractor style saw - this is the one time you have to
> worry about it. With the saw on a mobile base it's easy
> to mis-judge how far back the motor is, and bang it into
> things while moving the saw.
Yeah, maybe, but that's not really a big issue to overcome. That seems
like a reach to justify worrying about the motor hanging off the back. I
have found that I can certainly deal with that issue.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 19 Jun 2016 15:54:36 +0000, John McCoy wrote:
>> Well that or go for a "new" portable bench top.
>
> Ah, I wouldn't agree with that point :-)
>
> I'm not a big fan of benchtop saws. I think a full size saw gives you
> more power, more precision, more durability,
> is more stable, and overall safer. So I wouldn't recommend a benchtop
> unless someone was very constrained on space,
Well, there is an alternative with a bit of luck - an *old* contractors
saw from Delta. It's small enough to be called a benchtop, but it weighs
a ton and the motor is external. I have the 1948 model and it's very
compact and built like a tank. Even has an overhead blade guard. Like
all saws it needs a better miter gauge and a sliding table.
There is one flaw - the blade is fixed and the table moves, but I seldom
need to move it. Here's a link to a picture and no, I don't have the
jointer.
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/images/7063-A.JPG
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On 06/19/2016 7:27 PM, Meanie wrote:
> I plan to pull the bearing and replace it. A friend has a bearing puller
> which I will get tomorrow.
Seems the reasonable choice to me since you were happy with the saw
otherwise...I'd offer if you were anywhere close by... :) -- but sounds
like you've got it covered.
--
On 6/20/2016 12:59 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 06/19/2016 7:27 PM, Meanie wrote:
>> I plan to pull the bearing and replace it. A friend has a bearing puller
>> which I will get tomorrow.
>
> Seems the reasonable choice to me since you were happy with the saw
> otherwise...I'd offer if you were anywhere close by... :) -- but sounds
> like you've got it covered.
>
> --
>
Offer?
Pulled the bearing, picked up another locally, just finished installing
it and assembling the saw. Along with a good cleaning and lube, it's
like new again.
Thanks again.
On 6/20/2016 6:34 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 06/20/2016 4:40 PM, Meanie wrote:
> ...
>
>> Offer?
>
> To pull it or provide the loan of the shop to do so...as you seemed
> uncertain it wasn't _a_big_deal_ in your initial posting.
>
> Glad it went well; did the shaft show any sign of the heat having blued
> it, too...?
>
> --
>
Appreciate the offer.
The shaft look very good. After pulling the bearing off, it was nice and
shiny. THe winding part which make contact with the brushes was the only
discolored area, to be expected.
On Sat, 18 Jun 2016 16:11:39 -0400, Meanie <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 6/18/2016 3:38 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 6/18/2016 9:19 AM, Meanie wrote:
>>>> My portable (on site) 10" Hitachi table saw took a dump the other
>>>> day. I disassembled the motor and discovered the winding bearings are
>>>> shot. Lowest replacement cost I found is $260 for the motor. As much
>>>> as I would love to buy a new full size TS, but that's not gonna
>>>> happen. Therefore, I've resorted to the used dept of either size and
>>>> currently there are several on CL but I'm uncertain of good brands
>>>> and their value other than the likes of Grizzly, Jets, Powermatic,
>>>> etc.
>>>>
>>>> I'm asking for suggestions and help to determine value and anything
>>>> else you can offer.
>>
>>> Just something to consider if you are going with a used bench top
>>> again.
>>> These saws are not built to last as long as contractor or cabinet
>>> saws
>>> are.
>>> Yours has become unusable, how long will it be before a used one
>>> becomes unusable.
>>
>> I would agree with Leon's point. If you have space, and
>> if you don't require portability, I think you would be
>> much wiser to pursue a contractors saw than a bench-top
>> saw.
>>
>> When you say "not sure I like the belt driven motor
>> sticking out", is that specific to the Ridgid, or a
>> generic concern about contractor style saws? If the
>> latter, I don't think you need worry - I've used that
>> style saw for ages, and don't recall ever having an
>> issue with the motor or belt.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>I've been seeing them on Rigid and Craftsman models. Though, not all.
>I'm not worried about the integrity of that design since it would be
>easier to replace a motor and belt, just concerned about it sticking out
>or impeding on the belt in my tight space. I also plan to make it
>mobilized which could add to the hindrance.
The saws I've seen without the "motor sticking out the back" have had
universal motors. You're much better off with an induction motor,
even it sticks out the back. You'd probably never have a bearing
problem again, and if you did, induction motors tend to be pretty
standard and easily replaced.
On 6/19/2016 12:40 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Dan Coby <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> On 6/18/2016 7:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>
>>> If you find an Ridgid 3650 or 3660 (same saw, different package) in
>>> good condition, it's well worth purchasing. It's been a fantastic
>>> saw, except I'm not too fond of the way the guard attaches.
>>
>> What do you not like about the way that the guard attaches? I have the
>> 3650 and I think that it is very simple to remove or replace the
>> guard. All you have to do is twist one thumb screw.
>>
>> Now, if you had said that you did not like the original adjustment of
>> the guard, then I would have agreed with you. I spent about an hour
>> before I found the right technique and it involved the use of a hammer
>> to get the splitter to be vertical.
>>
>> However, now that I have the guard set correctly, it goes off and on
>> easily and is positioned correctly without anything more than
>> tightening the thumb screw.
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>
> I don't like where it attaches. It's so far back from the blade that any
> misalignment is magnified when you use it. I wasn't too fond of the
> thumbscrew design, as it didn't seem to lock the guard back in place at
> exactly the same place so I'd have to adjust and check and adjust and
> check and....
>
> Hm... now that I think about it... I adjusted the fence long after I had
> removed the guard pretty much permanently. Some of the issues I had with
> alignment may have been caused or magnified by the fence being slightly
> angled. (It's well worth checking your fence and blade to make sure
> they're exactly parallel to the miter slot!)
I checked the alignment of the blade when I first got the saw. The blade
was parallel to the slot. I did have to do some adjustment for the fence.
Dan
On 6/18/2016 2:07 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>
> I may start a war, with this comment.
>
> I have an old 1968 Craftsman 10' table saw. This was the high end
> craftsman, not the elcheapo. I Have been using it for about 30 years
> and it is still quite functional.
>
> The Craftsman has a cast iron table with aluminum wings, giveing me
> about a 36 inch square working area. I did have a problem with the 1hp
> capacitor start motor that a repair man fixed for a couple of dollars
> and showed my how to fix it in the future. (Clean our the area of the
> motor where the capacitor is, and keep it clean.)
>
> Because Craftsman table saws are looked down on you should be able to
> get a good deal on the saw.
My first of 3 TS's was a new 1983 Craftsman with cast iron top and steel
solid extensions. When I sold it I replaced the extensions with formica
covered extensions and a 36" Jet Exacta rip fence. It was a decent saw
after all of that. The 1 hp motor did give me grief when ripping 3/4"
plywood if myself and a helper did not guide steady enough or slow enough.
After using it for 16 years I traded up to a Jet cabinet saw. and about
14 years got the industrial SawStop.
All three saws were/are on mobile bases and I cannot stress how much a
mobile base on a TS makes close quarters work areas less troublesome.