On Mar 22, 3:52=A0pm, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Rattle can's are a MUCH better choice.
>
> Same company, same lacquer.
> orhttp://www.spray-station.com/
>
> On 3/20/2011 1:09 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
>
>
> > Choice of brush?
>
> > Does reducing help flowout?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
They lay down a smoother coat, just takes more
of them. Also 5x more expensive and 5x nastier
to breathe. Tempted to build with brush on and top
off with a couple of dusting coats of spraybomb
lacquer to level out.
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Mar 20, 2:46 am, Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 3/20/2011 12:09 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>>> Choice of brush?
>>
>>> Does reducing help flowout?
>>
>> I used a purdy natural bristle and applied about 5 quarts not too
>> long ago. Straight out of the can, worked great.
>>
>> --
>> Steve Barker
>> remove the "not" from my address to email
>
> Zibra "premium" angle-tipped sash brush won't lay a
> smooth, unbroken coat for all the cussing I can
> muster. Seems to work much better for varnish.
I've never used Minwax brushing lacquer but I've used a lot of Deft's (many
gallons). Various observations...
I flow on with a loaded brush held almost horizontally and moved very
slowly. IME, the brush doesn't make much difference; I often use chip
brushes.
On the first coat, you can do a lot of back/cross brushing to cover skipped
spots and/or even out. You can do the same on subsequent coats but lightly
and quickly. If the work is wider than the brush but less than 3x brush,
I'll flow on two brush loads, one along both edges, and then cross brush
diagonally between them to cover the center. I may or may not tip off
depending on how it looks.
Regardless of what you do, the coat will look like hell until it is
completely dry; that is because the thickness of the wet lacquer is many
times greater than the dry thickness.
IMO, it is pointless to sand each coat of lacquer. I always put on at least
three heavy coats - the heavier the better - and let them dry for a couple
of days before sanding; I then sand until there are no shiny spots. If I've
had to sand a *LOT* I'll put on a couple more heavy coats, let dry and sand
again. Once I have sanded and feel that I still have a sufficiently heavy
coat remaining, I put on a "shine" coat...that is a coat that has been
thinned a lot with thinner (50/50?) and its only purpose is to restore the
shine removed by sanding, not to build. I apply that coat with the softest,
finest and fullest bristle brush I can lay my hands on (an artist's red
sable is good) and I try to apply it as thinly as possible. If the area
being coated is small, I often do it with a piece of muslin wrapped around a
lemon sized ball of cotton...saturate the cotton and squeeze out almost dry.
If I sand through anywhere, I fix it by putting on a bit of lacquer with my
finger and then swiping it rapidly (with finger) so it feathers out all
around the spot; I may do that 2-3 times before the final sanding and shine
coat.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Mar 20, 11:13=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Father Haskell wrote:
> I flow on with a loaded brush held almost horizontally and moved very
> slowly. =A0IME, the brush doesn't make much difference; I often use chip
> brushes.
Damn, just spent $7 for a new Purdy 1" bristle.
> On the first coat, you can do a lot of back/cross brushing to cover skipp=
ed
> spots and/or even out. You can do the same on subsequent coats but lightl=
y
> and quickly. =A0If the work is wider than the brush but less than 3x brus=
h,
> I'll flow on two brush loads, one along both edges, and then cross brush
> diagonally between them to cover the center. =A0I may or may not tip off
> depending on how it looks.
First coat of Minwax lacquer levelled out nice. Soaks in
very well, judging by how thin the lacquer on the stir stick
dried.
> Regardless of what you do, the coat will look like hell until it is
> completely dry; that is because the thickness of the wet lacquer is many
> times greater than the dry thickness.
Less of a problem with shellac.
> IMO, it is pointless to sand each coat of lacquer. =A0I always put on at =
least
> three heavy coats - the heavier the better - and let them dry for a coupl=
e
> of days before sanding; I then sand until there are no shiny spots. =A0If=
I've
> had to sand a *LOT* I'll put on a couple more heavy coats, let dry and sa=
nd
> again. =A0Once I have sanded and feel that I still have a sufficiently he=
avy
> coat remaining, I put on a "shine" coat...that is a coat that has been
> thinned a lot with thinner (50/50?) and its only purpose is to restore th=
e
> shine removed by sanding, not to build. =A0I apply that coat with the sof=
test,
> finest and fullest bristle brush I can lay my hands on (an artist's red
> sable is good) and I try to apply it as thinly as possible. =A0If the are=
a
> being coated is small, I often do it with a piece of muslin wrapped aroun=
d a
> lemon sized ball of cotton...saturate the cotton and squeeze out almost d=
ry.
Sounds similar to French polish, where the final sessions
are glaze coating with 1 lb cut (the most fun part) and
spiriting off with few drops of alcohol.
> If I sand through anywhere, I fix it by putting on a bit of lacquer with =
my
> finger and then swiping it rapidly (with finger) so it feathers out all
> around the spot; I may do that 2-3 times before the final sanding and shi=
ne
> coat.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On Mar 19, 10:09=A0pm, Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote:
> Choice of brush?
>
> Does reducing help flowout?
Natural brush and use the tipping technique; one last light stroke
with the brush held exactly perpendicular to the work. Brushing
lacquer should already have a retarder to allow flow out.
On Mar 20, 2:46=A0am, Steve Barker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/20/2011 12:09 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
> > Choice of brush?
>
> > Does reducing help flowout?
>
> I used a purdy natural bristle and applied about 5 quarts not too long
> ago. =A0Straight out of the can, worked great.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
Zibra "premium" angle-tipped sash brush won't lay a
smooth, unbroken coat for all the cussing I can
muster. Seems to work much better for varnish.