I've just finished up rebuilding my shop built drum sander this
weekend and I'm really happy with how it's turned out, more on that
coming in the future. The problem is that I decided to use that
phenolic coated plywood for the top surface of the table. I used the
same stuff on my router table and it's held up pretty well there. But
after 15 minutes of use on the sander it's already scratched to hell,
so clearly it's not going to hold up. Doh!
The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
cement?
-Kevin
[email protected] wrote:
> The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
> high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
> 30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
> It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
> stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
> that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
> I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
> cement?
I've glued aluminum to wood with TB2 without any problems - but that
wasn't subject to much in the way of shearing forces. I can't think of
any reason you couldn't glue clean stainless.
You might consider taking a brake to your s/s and bending a 90-degree by
either 3/4" or 1-1/2" hook on the upstream end of your s/s surface, and
screwing that to the end of your table as insurance against creep.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:28c18608-8ce3-41a1-8098-8ce7fd585b0a@r33g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I've just finished up rebuilding my shop built drum sander this
> weekend and I'm really happy with how it's turned out, more on that
> coming in the future. The problem is that I decided to use that
> phenolic coated plywood for the top surface of the table. I used the
> same stuff on my router table and it's held up pretty well there. But
> after 15 minutes of use on the sander it's already scratched to hell,
> so clearly it's not going to hold up. Doh!
>
> The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
> high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
> 30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
> It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
> stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
> that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
> I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
> cement?
>
>
> -Kevin
Can you get a sheet of that slick UHMV plastic? Screw it down and replace
as needed.
On Mar 31, 12:33 am, Charlie Groh <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 20:41:37 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
> >I've just finished up rebuilding my shop built drum sander this
> >weekend and I'm really happy with how it's turned out, more on that
> >coming in the future. The problem is that I decided to use that
> >phenolic coated plywood for the top surface of the table. I used the
> >same stuff on my router table and it's held up pretty well there. But
> >after 15 minutes of use on the sander it's already scratched to hell,
> >so clearly it's not going to hold up. Doh!
>
> >The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
> >high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
> >30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
> >It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
> >stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
> >that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
> >I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
> >cement?
>
> >-Kevin
>
> ...contact cement should work fine...stainless, bulletproof...don't
> know, though, I have pretty good luck with laminates, as long as
> you're not sanding *that* surface...
I should say, there's no feed rollers, I feed the stock through by
hand, and there's a bit of vibration passed through. The scratch
lines on the table actually almost look like I took an orbital sander
to the thing.
-Kevin
On Mar 31, 7:54 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:28c18608-8ce3-41a1-8098-8ce7fd585b0a@r33g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > I've just finished up rebuilding my shop built drum sander this
> > weekend and I'm really happy with how it's turned out, more on that
> > coming in the future. The problem is that I decided to use that
> > phenolic coated plywood for the top surface of the table. I used the
> > same stuff on my router table and it's held up pretty well there. But
> > after 15 minutes of use on the sander it's already scratched to hell,
> > so clearly it's not going to hold up. Doh!
>
> > The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
> > high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
> > 30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
> > It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
> > stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
> > that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
> > I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
> > cement?
>
> > -Kevin
>
> Can you get a sheet of that slick UHMV plastic? Screw it down and replace
> as needed.
I have gotten scraps of UHMW and they mostly weren't perflectly flat.
I used it for my router table fence faces and had to run them through
the drum sander to get them flat. The table is wider than the drum
itself, there are flanged bearings on either side in a ply cabinet and
the table runs to the cabinet, so I can't just run the UHMW through it
to make sure it's flat. Pricewise they are similar.
-Kevin
On Mar 31, 6:34 am, Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
> > high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
> > 30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
> > It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
> > stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
> > that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
> > I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
> > cement?
>
> I've glued aluminum to wood with TB2 without any problems - but that
> wasn't subject to much in the way of shearing forces. I can't think of
> any reason you couldn't glue clean stainless.
>
> You might consider taking a brake to your s/s and bending a 90-degree by
> either 3/4" or 1-1/2" hook on the upstream end of your s/s surface, and
> screwing that to the end of your table as insurance against creep.
The corners of the table are rounded so I don't get impaled on them,
so that makes it a little harder.
I don't want to try to screw around with cauls on this and don't have
a vacuum clamp, so I'm thinking the contact cement is the safest
bet. I guess the bent edge would make lining it up easier.
-Kevin
On Mon, 30 Mar 2009 20:41:37 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>I've just finished up rebuilding my shop built drum sander this
>weekend and I'm really happy with how it's turned out, more on that
>coming in the future. The problem is that I decided to use that
>phenolic coated plywood for the top surface of the table. I used the
>same stuff on my router table and it's held up pretty well there. But
>after 15 minutes of use on the sander it's already scratched to hell,
>so clearly it's not going to hold up. Doh!
>
>The table is a stress-skin design with the 3/4 ply on top, about 1-1/2
>high box made from 3/4 ply, and the bottom is 3/8 ply. It's about
>30"x20", was a fair bit of work, and fits perfectly.
>
>It seems like the only thing that's going to hold up is going to be
>stainless steel. I highly doubt I'm going to get anything to stick to
>that phenolic. So I'm thinking I need to screw 1/4 ply over it, then
>I can laminate to that. Can I laminate steel to wood? Contact
>cement?
>
>
>-Kevin
...contact cement should work fine...stainless, bulletproof...don't
know, though, I have pretty good luck with laminates, as long as
you're not sanding *that* surface...
cg
[email protected] wrote:
:> as needed.
: I have gotten scraps of UHMW and they mostly weren't perflectly flat.
Do you think a sheet of metal glued down with contact cement
is going to be any flatter?
-- Andy Barss