Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
table.
This weekend I was working on some projects and got annoyed at having
to continually switch between the two for different operations, so I
think I want to build a router table specifically for routing.
While I am making a new table, it occurs to me that the lever on my
router that locks the height of the cutter in place is awkward and
engaging it might shift the cutter 1/64" or so, which is very annoying.
So if I am building a new table, now is probably the time to get a new
fixed-based router for the table if I am going to get one.
Typically what I do with a router is very simple: rabbets, sliding
dovetails, and corner rounding.
Typically I work on fairly small projects (think jewelry boxes, etc).
What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
wrong):
Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
down at all.
Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
"quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
> table.
>
> This weekend I was working on some projects and got annoyed at having
> to continually switch between the two for different operations, so I
> think I want to build a router table specifically for routing.
>
> While I am making a new table, it occurs to me that the lever on my
> router that locks the height of the cutter in place is awkward and
> engaging it might shift the cutter 1/64" or so, which is very annoying.
>
> So if I am building a new table, now is probably the time to get a new
> fixed-based router for the table if I am going to get one.
>
> Typically what I do with a router is very simple: rabbets, sliding
> dovetails, and corner rounding.
> Typically I work on fairly small projects (think jewelry boxes, etc).
>
> What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
> wrong):
> Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
> like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>
> That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
> massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
> down at all.
>
> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>
Hitachi M12VC, mine is great, and hard to beat for price/features
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
> >
>
> Spend a reasonable amount on a router and woodworking for many years will be
> more pleasurable. You have an inexpensive router now, but you don't like
> it. Do you want another cheapie?
>
> Buy DeWalt, Porter Cable, Bosch, Milwaukee and you will be happy. Consider
> a lift to adjust from the top for pure pleasure of use. Triton has a router
> that does that too.
Ditto on the router lift.
I have a PC 690 in a Rouseeau lift.
That lift makes it soooooooo nice !
"quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
> table.
<SNIP>
> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>
I have to go with the Hitachi M12V also. I have two - one permanently
mounted in router table. You'll love it!
Vic
On 13 Aug 2006 22:17:43 -0700, "quixote"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
>wrong):
> Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
>like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>
>That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
>massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
>down at all.
>
>Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
I like the Porter Cable 69x series- but the real thing here is a "what
not to get". My wife bought me my first router, and as she is a
thrify lady, she got me a "Duracraft" plunge router. It made the bits
go around just fine- but the problem with the thing became apparent
when it came time to change bits. Evidently, some clever designer
decided that a Dremel-style button + one wrench collet system was
adequate for a router, and as it turns out, it was not. It was nearly
impossible to get the bits tight enough, but if that task was
accomplished, then it was nearly impossible to remove them. Ended up
being not just annoying, but actively dangerous when bits started to
climb their way out of a spinning router.
It's well worth it to get one that uses two wrenches. Everything else
is probably something you can make do without, but I'll never get a
router with a button-type spindle lock again.
"quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>
Spend a reasonable amount on a router and woodworking for many years will be
more pleasurable. You have an inexpensive router now, but you don't like
it. Do you want another cheapie?
Buy DeWalt, Porter Cable, Bosch, Milwaukee and you will be happy. Consider
a lift to adjust from the top for pure pleasure of use. Triton has a router
that does that too.
When my big router went south I replaced it with a Triton. It has above the
table bit change. And easy and accurate height adjustment. The plunge spring
is removed or added in a few seconds if out of table usage is ever
envisioned.
No need to buy a lift. I would buy it again. Cheers, JG
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:8cYDg.5987$%[email protected]...
>
> "quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>>
>
> Spend a reasonable amount on a router and woodworking for many years will
> be more pleasurable. You have an inexpensive router now, but you don't
> like it. Do you want another cheapie?
>
> Buy DeWalt, Porter Cable, Bosch, Milwaukee and you will be happy.
> Consider a lift to adjust from the top for pure pleasure of use. Triton
> has a router that does that too.
>
quixote wrote:
> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
> table.
>
> This weekend I was working on some projects and got annoyed at having
> to continually switch between the two for different operations, so I
> think I want to build a router table specifically for routing.
>
> While I am making a new table, it occurs to me that the lever on my
> router that locks the height of the cutter in place is awkward and
> engaging it might shift the cutter 1/64" or so, which is very annoying.
>
> So if I am building a new table, now is probably the time to get a new
> fixed-based router for the table if I am going to get one.
>
> Typically what I do with a router is very simple: rabbets, sliding
> dovetails, and corner rounding.
> Typically I work on fairly small projects (think jewelry boxes, etc).
>
> What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
> wrong):
> Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
> like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>
> That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
> massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
> down at all.
>
> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>
Hard to get more router for the money than the Hitatch M12V
<URL<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223K9/sr=8-1/qid=1155557983/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0881977-5272759?ie=UTF8>
Ditto on the Hitachi. Bought the "bent wrench" sold by Sommerfeld
(http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=184) and like it. Also,
bought Woodpecker's aluminum plate - a bit more expensive than Phenolic ones
by much better.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
>> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
>> table.
>>
>> This weekend I was working on some projects and got annoyed at having
>> to continually switch between the two for different operations, so I
>> think I want to build a router table specifically for routing.
>>
>> While I am making a new table, it occurs to me that the lever on my
>> router that locks the height of the cutter in place is awkward and
>> engaging it might shift the cutter 1/64" or so, which is very annoying.
>>
>> So if I am building a new table, now is probably the time to get a new
>> fixed-based router for the table if I am going to get one.
>>
>> Typically what I do with a router is very simple: rabbets, sliding
>> dovetails, and corner rounding.
>> Typically I work on fairly small projects (think jewelry boxes, etc).
>>
>> What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
>> wrong):
>> Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
>> like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
>> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>>
>> That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
>> massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
>> down at all.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>>
>
> Hitachi M12VC, mine is great, and hard to beat for price/features
>
Name <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> quixote wrote:
>> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
>> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
>> table.
>>
>> This weekend I was working on some projects and got annoyed at having
>> to continually switch between the two for different operations, so I
>> think I want to build a router table specifically for routing.
>>
>> While I am making a new table, it occurs to me that the lever on my
>> router that locks the height of the cutter in place is awkward and
>> engaging it might shift the cutter 1/64" or so, which is very annoying.
>>
>> So if I am building a new table, now is probably the time to get a new
>> fixed-based router for the table if I am going to get one.
>>
>> Typically what I do with a router is very simple: rabbets, sliding
>> dovetails, and corner rounding.
>> Typically I work on fairly small projects (think jewelry boxes, etc).
>>
>> What I think I need (I'm mostly learning on my own, so I could be
>> wrong):
>> Easy and accurate depth control by reaching under the table. I'd
>> like to adjust it by a few thousandths.
>> Inexpensive. I'd rather spend extra funds on wood for projects.
>>
>> That's probably about it. I don't need super fast bit changes or
>> massive power. My current router is 1.5HP, and I rarely drag the motor
>> down at all.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>>
>
> Hard to get more router for the money than the Hitatch M12V
> <URL<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223K9/sr=8-1/qid=1155557983/re
> f=pd_bbs_1/104-0881977-5272759?ie=UTF8>
>
>
>
My money goes to Milwaukee.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FPJK/sr=1-1/qid=1155574826/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-3203675-4822433?ie=UTF8&s=hi
Viewed another way, at least some of our money stays in the US.
"Rick" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Except that Milwaukee is now owned by the people who bring you Ryobi
> tools....
>
>
> "R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
>> Viewed another way, at least some of our money stays in the US.
>>
>
>
>
damn damn damn damn!
"John" wrote in message
> I can't
> imagine why I'd ever want a two-wrench system; a properly-designed spindle
lock
> works just fine.
Different strokes, or whatever you get used to ... I find two wrenches, held
in one hand, much easier for the final tightening, and particularly for the
initial unloosening.
AAMOF, the only thing I don't like about the Bosch Colt is the damn spindle
lock and one nut. All my other routers that have spindle locks can still be
used with two wrenches.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/13/06
On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:11:28 -0500, Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 13 Aug 2006 22:17:43 -0700, "quixote"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I like the Porter Cable 69x series- but the real thing here is a "what
>not to get". My wife bought me my first router, and as she is a
>thrify lady, she got me a "Duracraft" plunge router. It made the bits
>go around just fine- but the problem with the thing became apparent
>when it came time to change bits. Evidently, some clever designer
>decided that a Dremel-style button + one wrench collet system was
>adequate for a router, and as it turns out, it was not. It was nearly
>impossible to get the bits tight enough, but if that task was
>accomplished, then it was nearly impossible to remove them. Ended up
>being not just annoying, but actively dangerous when bits started to
>climb their way out of a spinning router.
>
>It's well worth it to get one that uses two wrenches. Everything else
>is probably something you can make do without, but I'll never get a
>router with a button-type spindle lock again.
>
It sounds like Duracraft had a bad implementation of a good design. Both my
Dewalt 621 and my Hitachi M12V have push-button spindle locks and I've never had
any trouble either tightening or removing bits with either of them. I can't
imagine why I'd ever want a two-wrench system; a properly-designed spindle lock
works just fine.
To reply by e-mail, use jcarlson631 at yahoo dot com
John
Because "Vic Baron" <[email protected]> could, he/she/it opin'd:
>
>"quixote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Currently I have a ryobi bt3k table saw that I have a plunge router
>> mounted on (one of the saw leaves has a mount) to use as a router
>> table.
><SNIP>
>> Any thoughts on what to get (or not get) would be appreciated.
>>
>
>I have to go with the Hitachi M12V also. I have two - one permanently
>mounted in router table. You'll love it!
I'll second -- no, third -- no, fourth . . . whatever . . . this
opinion. My wife bought one for me a couple of birthdays ago and I
LOVE mine. She shopped around and found what she thought was the best
deal for a router for me; is she a keeper, or what??!!??
-Don (getting GOOD presents from my sweetie!)
--
"What do *you* care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman
Thanks for that. I was considering one of those but that (lack of ) feature
puts it out of the running.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "John" wrote in message
> AAMOF, the only thing I don't like about the Bosch Colt is the damn
spindle
> lock and one nut. >
Except that Milwaukee is now owned by the people who bring you Ryobi
tools....
"R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> Viewed another way, at least some of our money stays in the US.
>
My PC 8529 has a spindle lock. It also takes two wrenches if you want. I use
the wrenches. Reason being that there is no torque on the router when
tightening or loosening a bit. Prevents the possibility of a slip sending
the router skidding across the bench.
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:11:28 -0500, Prometheus <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
I can't
> imagine why I'd ever want a two-wrench system; a properly-designed spindle
lock
> works just fine.
>
> To reply by e-mail, use jcarlson631 at yahoo dot com
>
> John