On Sep 4, 5:49 pm, "HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that it
> wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw so I guess
> I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
> have the "Wobble" type of dado.
>
> "HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
> > can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
> > my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
> > easier?
skill saw is best as other posters stated, set blade depth then cut ur
marks then repeated cuts between marks...as many as u want, then snap
off pieces with ur hand. pull back blade guard...BE CAREFUL!!! and use
the saw to "sweep" between marks using the blade to clean out
remnants. Done it lots and it works faster than a chisel with about
the same result...it ain't a piano!
Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that it
wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw so I guess
I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
have the "Wobble" type of dado.
"HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
> can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
> my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
> easier?
>
If you want something really............exciting!, in the '60's Craftsman
sold a dado set designed to be used on a 7 1/4" circular saw. I have the
catalogue from my dad around somewhere but I can't find it right now.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "HotRdd"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that
>>it
>>wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw
>
> Then you do NOT have a radial arm saw.
>
>>so I guess
>>I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
>>have the "Wobble" type of dado.
>
> And a dado set very likely will indeed NOT fit, and you should NOT try,
> even
> with a wobble dado.
>
> Best bet then is the multiple-crosscut procedure followed by hammer &
> chisel,
> as described several times by myself and others.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
HotRdd wrote:
> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I can
> slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on my
> radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this easier?
>
>
Multiple cuts, about 1/4" apart, with a hand held circular saw set to
the proper depth. Knock out the remaining waste with a hammer and clean
up with a chisel. It ain't fine furniture.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I can
>slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on my
>radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this easier?
Well, first off, most radial arm saws *will* accomodate dado sets, so you
might want to check into that a little further. Why do you doubt that you can
use one on yours?
Anyway, even if you can't put a dado set on your RAS, you can achieve the same
effect by repeated crosscuts. You can use the saw to remove all of the
material, but it takes a while. I'd make one crosscut at each end of the dado,
and one about every 1/2" to 3/4" in between, then chisel out the stuff in
between.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Timber framers do this all the time with a circular saw & a wide chisel.
They call it card decking.Set your saw to the exact depth of the dado then
two careful cuts at each side of the dado, then repeated cuts about 1/4-1/2
apart, then hit them a glancing blow with a hammer. Most of them will break
& you can push them out with your hand. Then clean it up with a chisel &
hammer using it bevel down.
----- Original Message -----
From: "HotRdd" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Notching posts
> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
> can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
> my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
> easier?
>
"HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed
> that it wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre
> saw so I guess I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit.
> Unfortunately I only have the "Wobble" type of dado.
>
>
> "HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts
>> that I can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a
>> Dado blade on my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that
>> would make this easier?
>>
>
>
OK, here's a note to which you should pay very close attention:
A Compound Miter Saw IS NOT a Radial Arm Saw, despite their similarities.
A compound miter saw is NOT designed for dado work.
A radial arm saw is.
Back to your regular programming.
Patriarch
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
>For framing jobs like this the field expedient is to make a series of
>kerfs with your hand held circular saw, blade set to the proper depth (1.5"
>for 2X lumber),
.. using a speed square as a guide to make sure that the end cuts are
straight, and square to the faces ...
>leaving thin (maybe 1/8") ridges of wood that can be knocked
>out with a hammer. If necessary clean up with a chisel or rabbet plane.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"HotRdd" crazy talked this
>Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that
>it
>wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw
YOU DO NOT HAVE A RADIAL ARM SAW!!!
Putting dadoes on a little, baby sliding compound miter saw is suicidal!!
One is a big saw on a stand that takes up a whole wall of the shop. The
other is a little, portable saw that you can throw in the back of the truck
and drive it to the job.
Get your terms right. There will be a considerable reduction in guts and
gore if you don't confuse these two very different machines.
In article <[email protected]>, "HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that it
>wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw
Then you do NOT have a radial arm saw.
>so I guess
>I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
>have the "Wobble" type of dado.
And a dado set very likely will indeed NOT fit, and you should NOT try, even
with a wobble dado.
Best bet then is the multiple-crosscut procedure followed by hammer & chisel,
as described several times by myself and others.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Wow. BIG difference between a sliding compound miter saw and a radial
arm saw. Don't try a dado on your SCMS - of course I assume there is
no way it would fit anyhow.
Dave Hall
>Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that it
>wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw so I guess
>I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
>have the "Wobble" type of dado.
>
>
>"HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
>> can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
>> my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
>> easier?
>>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
HotRdd <[email protected]> wrote:
>Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I can
>slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on my
>radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this easier?
>
>
For framing jobs like this the field expedient is to make a series of
kerfs with your hand held circular saw, blade set to the proper depth (1.5"
for 2X lumber), leaving thin (maybe 1/8") ridges of wood that can be knocked
out with a hammer. If necessary clean up with a chisel or rabbet plane.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
"HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
> can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
> my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
> easier?
>
I probably built at least 300 modules out of pine one by stock on the radial
arm saw.
Almost all of them had dadoes. All of them were cut on a radial arm saw.
Each module had at least ten dadoes. some of them over fifty dadoes. Figure
about 4,000 dadoes says you can cut dadoes on a radial arm saw.
I have also cut dadoes in a wide variety of other stock, including 6 X 6
stock.
I prefer a good stack dado set over the wobble type. Just remember to
nibble at your cuts. Big dado cuts can end in disaster. Easy does it. Take
it slow and easy. Be patient and pull the saw slowly through the stock.
The radial arm saw is made for exactly this kind of work.
"HotRdd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I
> can slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on
> my radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this
> easier?
Putting the dado set on the RAS would be easiest, but you could always use a
router or multiple passes with virtually any sort of saw.