Cordless drill clutch settings?

Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> krw <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>> I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
>>> If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
>>> When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
>>> over to drill mode.
>>>
>>> FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>>>
>> Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
>> drilling?
>>
>
> Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
> about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
> drilled with spade bits.
>
> While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
> rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.
>
> Puckdropper

Understood but typically after a bit catches and stops it requires even
more torque to complete the hole. Then you are back to not using the
clutch for drilling the remainder if the hole.

John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>
>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
>> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
>> pointless.
>
> Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
> a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
> to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.
>
> FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
> If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.
>
> John

A decent drill will put a screw in with care. The clutch settings on most
cordless drills are a PIA to use to begin with.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 23:41:36 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
>>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
>>>>If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
>>>>When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
>>>>over to drill mode.
>>>>
>>>>FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>>>>
>>> Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
>>> drilling?
>>>
>>
>>Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
>>about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
>>drilled with spade bits.
>>
>>While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
>>rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.
>>
>Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
>about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
>still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
>the clutch on any of my drills.

I was drilling a dozen holes in cast iron last month with a 5" spade
bit.

Not exactly something that can be run in a drill motor

http://www.muskegontool.com/spade-drils.html

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>[email protected] says...
>>>
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>> > says...
>>> >>
>>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>>
>>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>>
>>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>>
>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>>>
>>> John
>>
>>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>>is locked out.
>
>My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
reports about it.

--
Ed Huntress

John Doe <[email protected]> wrote in news:mo7ct1$vg$2@dont-
email.me:

> Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.
>

What was the answer?

I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post the
solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
> pointless.

I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes. If
the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off. When I
need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click over to drill
mode.

FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

krw <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
>>If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
>>When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
>>over to drill mode.
>>
>>FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>>
> Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
> drilling?
>

Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
drilled with spade bits.

While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
>> pointless.
>
>I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes. If
>the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off. When I
>need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click over to drill
>mode.
>
>FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>
Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
drilling?

On 7/19/2015 4:39 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Do you not use pocket holes?
>
> No, don't like pocket holes. I find them aesthetically
> displeasing.
>
> John
>

They will do in built-ins but I tend to use no mechanical fasteners at
all. Although attaching replaceable backs, adjustable feet, hinges, and
or pulls require a few screws.

On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>> says...
>>>
>>> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>
>> What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>
>> You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>
> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
> John
>
>
Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
pointless.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a DeWalt
> DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch setting?
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd790d2.aspx
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd990m2.aspx
>
> I will ask around.
>
> Thanks.

What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

The purpose of the clutch is to let you set fasteners precisely--if
you're dealing with something that needs more torque than the highest
setting on a hammer drill then it's not that delicate to begin with.

You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> > says...
> >>
> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>
> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>
> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>
> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
> John

I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
is locked out.

In article <[email protected]>, huntres23
@optonline.net says...
>
> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>In article <[email protected]>,
> >>[email protected] says...
> >>>
> >>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
> >>> news:[email protected]:
> >>>
> >>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> >>> > says...
> >>> >>
> >>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
> >>>
> >>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
> >>>
> >>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
> >>>
> >>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
> >>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
> >>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
> >>>
> >>> John
> >>
> >>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
> >>is locked out.
> >
> >My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?
>
> He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
> reports about it.

If that's what he's doing then why does he need the clutch to slip?

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>>
>> I need more torque before the clutch slips.

> What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?

> You might want to look into an impact driver instead.

That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

John

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:

>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
> pointless.

Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.

FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.

John

Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:

>> FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
>> If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.
>
> A decent drill will put a screw in with care. The clutch settings on
> most cordless drills are a PIA to use to begin with.

Very true on both points. I just find it easier to use a
hand screwdriver, and I'm not in any hurry. More often
than not I use the Yankee spiral screwdriver, even for
non-critical work. The cordless drill is mostly just for
drywall screws or deck screws now-a-days.

John

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Do you not use pocket holes?

No, don't like pocket holes. I find them aesthetically
displeasing.

John

On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 1:03:35 PM UTC-4, John Doe wrote:
> Ed Huntress <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > John Doe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill
> >>and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for
> >>inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with
> >>no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.
> >>
> >>Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
> >>drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
> >>right angle drill.
> >>
> >>Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
> >>where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can
> >>be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place.
> >>So finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.
> >
> > I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
> > I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
> > around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
> > pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
> > great.
>
> What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
> hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
> drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
> stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
> better...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8
>
> The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
> to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
> operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

...and there's this:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/add-e-simply-add-electricity-to-your-bicycle#/story

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] says...
>>
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>> > says...
>> >>
>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>
>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>
>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>
>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>>
>> John
>
>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>is locked out.

My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 14:35:44 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>
>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
>> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
>> pointless.
>
>Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
>a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
>to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.
>
>FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
>If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.
>
+1 (or use an impact driver)

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:11:03 AM UTC-5, Puckdropper at dot wrote:
> John Doe=20
> > Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.=20
> >=20
>=20
> What was the answer?
>=20
> I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post th=
e=20
> solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.
>=20
> Puckdropper
> --=20
> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I read all the reviews of all 6 drills - http://www.dewalt.com/tool-categor=
ies/xr-system-drills--hammer-drills.aspx

I didn't see any mention of torque, torque adjustment, etc. Must have fo=
und the answer on some other website's reviews.

Seems this group of drills have a problem, to some extent, with stock chuck=
s, i.e., wobble and/or breaking off, as per the reviews on the above site. =
Seems Dewalt will replace a wobbling/broken chuck with a different one, i=
.e., not the same as the stock chuck.

Sonny

On 7/19/2015 9:53 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
>>> If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.
>>
>> A decent drill will put a screw in with care. The clutch settings on
>> most cordless drills are a PIA to use to begin with.
>
> Very true on both points. I just find it easier to use a
> hand screwdriver, and I'm not in any hurry. More often
> than not I use the Yankee spiral screwdriver, even for
> non-critical work. The cordless drill is mostly just for
> drywall screws or deck screws now-a-days.
>
> John
>

Geez I quit hand driving, for the most part, in the early 80's.
Do you not use pocket holes?

I saw a plumber on TV using a hand drill to saw a 4" hole
through the floor for a pipe access. That 4" hole cutter will
twist your elbow a bit if you have only the pistol grip working.

Martin

On 7/18/2015 9:35 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 7/16/2015 7:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
>
>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
>> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
>> pointless.
>
> Yeah, I was just trying to think of what else you might do with
> a cordless drill that would need more torque. It didn't occur
> to me he'd be using it as a motor for some other device.
>
> FWIW, I leave my cordless drills in the locked position always.
> If I need to put a screw in with care, I do it by hand.
>
> John
>

On 7/16/2015 12:20 AM, John Doe wrote:
> I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a DeWalt
> DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch setting?
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd790d2.aspx
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd990m2.aspx
>
> I will ask around.
>
> Thanks.
>
I doubt it.


--
Jeff

On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>>I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
>>>If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
>>>When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
>>>over to drill mode.
>>>
>>>FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>>>
>> Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
>> drilling?
>>
>
>Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
>about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
>drilled with spade bits.
>
>While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
>rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.
>
Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
the clutch on any of my drills.

Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.

Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

> I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post
> the solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.

Apparently the more powerful version of the drill mentioned has a lot
more torque at the (same) highest clutch setting.

My own personal interest in the question subsided because the upgrade
became a no-brainer when I learned that while using the electronic
clutch the drill ramps up to speed (soft start).



I wrote:

> I need more torque before the clutch slips. Will the upgrade from a
> DeWalt DCD790 to a DCD990 provide more torque on the highest clutch
> setting?
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd790d2.aspx
>
> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-drills-drilldrivers-dcd990m2.aspx

The drill I referred to is not a hammer drill. The reviews I referred to
are from Amazon.


Sonny <[email protected]> wrote in news:d5ee6d44-7c52-4ba2-a24c-
[email protected]:

> On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:11:03 AM UTC-5, Puckdropper at dot
wrote:
>> John Doe
>> > Apparently I found the answer in reviews of the product.
>> >
>>
>> What was the answer?
>>
>> I occasionally have the same problem as someone else, and if they post
th
> e
>> solution sometimes it helps me solve my problem.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>> --
>> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
>
> I read all the reviews of all 6 drills - http://www.dewalt.com/tool-
categories/xr-system-drills--hammer-drills.aspx
>
> I didn't see any mention of torque, torque adjustment, etc. Must have
found the answer on some other website's reviews.
>
> Seems this group of drills have a problem, to some extent, with stock
chucks, i.e., wobble and/or breaking off, as per the reviews on the above
site. Seems Dewalt will replace a wobbling/broken chuck with a different
one, i.e., not the same as the stock chuck.
>
> Sonny
>

krw wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> [email protected] says...
>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>>> says...
>>>>> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>>> What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>>> You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>>>
>>> John
>> I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>> is locked out.
> My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?

He described what he wanted perfectly clear. He wants to be able to
apply more torque before the clutch slips. gee-whiz! ; )

Ed Huntress <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>>[email protected] says...
>>>>
>>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>>> > says...
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>>>
>>>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>>>
>>>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>>>
>>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

>>>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>>>is locked out.
>>
>>My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?
>
> He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
> reports about it.

Thanks.

Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill and
the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for inline
skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with no clutch),
it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.

Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same drill
should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch right angle
drill.

Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can be
removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place. So
finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

Ed Huntress <[email protected]> wrote:

> John Doe <[email protected]> wrote:

>>Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill
>>and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for
>>inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with
>>no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.
>>
>>Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
>>drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
>>right angle drill.
>>
>>Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
>>where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can
>>be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place.
>>So finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.
>
> I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
> I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
> around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
> pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
> great.

What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8

The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

John Doe wrote:

> What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
> hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
> cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
> pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
> this one but done better...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8
>
> The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
> to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
> operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...

First off - you have to understand that you have posted this across the
internet to a number of forums that are probably not so appropriate to your
needs/interest. Great - I'll post it to anyone who may have an idea...

Having gotten that off my chest - I still don't see why you need or want the
use of a clutch on your drill motor. You have control of the VSD via your
cable, so why worry about the clutch? Why not just imply use the drill
mode?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.

If you don't understand the answer already provided,
reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.

--
"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net> wrote in news:mobk4p$v06$1 dont-email.me:

> Path: eternal-september.org!mx02.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
> Subject: Re: Cordless drill clutch settings?
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 15:14:38 -0400
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 29
> Message-ID: <mobk4p$v06$1 dont-email.me>
> References: <mo7be3$tmc$2 dont-email.me> <MPG.3011f61b93a2a554989958 news.eternal-september.org> <XnsA4D9CFDF5EFFBpogosupernews 213.239.209.88> <MPG.30121977cb34b2e5989959 news.eternal-september.org> <akogqaha4qn1rrd2etoo55m1ev3c5rj66b 4ax.com> <4npgqatl428bmqqlscpkphjcu4a44g7oc3 4ax.com> <mob9fd$n3l$1 dont-email.me> <p0biqalg631mv2gnrg7d79frnt7m7roiop 4ax.com> <mobceb$2ap$1 dont-email.me>
> Injection-Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 19:13:30 +0000 (UTC)
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>
> John Doe wrote:
>
>> What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
>> hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
>> cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
>> pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
>> this one but done better...
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8
>>
>> The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
>> to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
>> operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...
>
> First off - you have to understand that you have posted this across the
> internet to a number of forums that are probably not so appropriate to your
> needs/interest. Great - I'll post it to anyone who may have an idea...
>
> Having gotten that off my chest - I still don't see why you need or want the
> use of a clutch on your drill motor. You have control of the VSD via your
> cable, so why worry about the clutch? Why not just imply use the drill
> mode?
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net
>
>
>
>

John Doe wrote:
> If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.
>
> If you don't understand the answer already provided,
> reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.
>

Ummmmm - I have two letters in the English alphabet for you - one of them is
Y and it's not the first of the two. If you don't like the responses you
get from the spam you blast across the net forums, then don't include the
forums you don't like.

BTW - As brilliant as you think you are - many have already posted the very
same question, and you have not answered that question.

As for a troll - no, just a regular contributing member of a newsgroup that
you spammed.

Good luck with your project - it really does not require the amount of
complexity that you are putting into it, but it's your project, so run with
it.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:

> John Doe wrote:
>> Ed Huntress <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > John Doe <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >>Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the
>> >>drill and the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push
>> >>stick for inline skating (my previous implementation, a right angle
>> >>drill with no clutch), it probably wouldn't require as much
>> >>stiffness.
>> >>
>> >>Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same
>> >>drill should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch
>> >>right angle drill.
>> >>
>> >>Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way
>> >>bearing where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some
>> >>rollers that can be removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing
>> >>the drill in place. So finding out what that does will have to wait
>> >>for the next build.
>> >
>> > I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the
>> > motor. I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped
>> > for a year around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there,
>> > and it was pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord,
>> > and it worked great.
>>
>> What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
>> hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the
>> cordless drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no
>> pedals. I just stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like
>> this one but done better...
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8
>>
>> The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the
>> drill to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy
>> to operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot
>> pegs...
>
> ...and there's this:
>
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/add-e-simply-add-electricity-to-your
> -bicycle#/story

Friction drive might be roughly the same difficulty to make as my (drill
to bottom bracket) setup. But I believe friction drive is less efficient.

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> John McCoy wrote:
>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> [email protected] says...
>>>>
>>>> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>
>>> What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>
>>> You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>
>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and the
>> clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too big of a
>> bit, and need to move to a corded drill.

> Typically you don't drill in a clutch setting. That is pretty much
> pointless.

Yup. Some people are here for the 80% off-topic political garbage and
know nothing about using tools.

But seriously. These groups are 80% off-topic political garbage.
Get a life.

--
"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net> wrote in news:mobks5$2v1$1 dont-email.me:

> Path: eternal-september.org!mx02.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net>
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,free.usenet,free.spirit
> Subject: Re: Cordless drill clutch settings?
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 15:27:06 -0400
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 28
> Message-ID: <mobks5$2v1$1 dont-email.me>
> References: <mo7be3$tmc$2 dont-email.me> <MPG.3011f61b93a2a554989958 news.eternal-september.org> <XnsA4D9CFDF5EFFBpogosupernews 213.239.209.88> <MPG.30121977cb34b2e5989959 news.eternal-september.org> <akogqaha4qn1rrd2etoo55m1ev3c5rj66b 4ax.com> <4npgqatl428bmqqlscpkphjcu4a44g7oc3 4ax.com> <mob9fd$n3l$1 dont-email.me> <p0biqalg631mv2gnrg7d79frnt7m7roiop 4ax.com> <mobceb$2ap$1 dont-email.me> <mobk4p$v06$1 dont-email.me> <mobkfr$vve$1 dont-email.me>
> Injection-Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 19:25:58 +0000 (UTC)
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> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.6157
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> X-Priority: 3
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> Xref: mx02.eternal-september.org rec.crafts.metalworking:455255 rec.woodworking:174373 free.usenet:8685819 free.spirit:2626
>
> John Doe wrote:
>> If you don't like this, ignore the thread branch.
>>
>> If you don't understand the answer already provided,
>> reply appropriately with your question instead of a troll.
>>
>
> Ummmmm - I have two letters in the English alphabet for you - one of them is
> Y and it's not the first of the two. If you don't like the responses you
> get from the spam you blast across the net forums, then don't include the
> forums you don't like.
>
> BTW - As brilliant as you think you are - many have already posted the very
> same question, and you have not answered that question.
>
> As for a troll - no, just a regular contributing member of a newsgroup that
> you spammed.
>
> Good luck with your project - it really does not require the amount of
> complexity that you are putting into it, but it's your project, so run with
> it.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net
>
>
>
>

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 16:11:25 +0000 (UTC), John Doe
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Ed Huntress <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>>>[email protected] says...
>>>>>
>>>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>>
>>>>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>>>> > says...
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>>>>
>>>>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>>>>
>>>>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>>>>
>>>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>
>>>>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>>>>is locked out.
>>>
>>>My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?
>>
>> He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
>> reports about it.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Having a clutch is useful because it helps prevent damage to the drill and
>the bicycle. If the clutch were being used as a push stick for inline
>skating (my previous implementation, a right angle drill with no clutch),
>it probably wouldn't require as much stiffness.
>
>Having a soft start like on the more powerful version of the same drill
>should be very useful if it's like the soft start on my Bosch right angle
>drill.
>
>Also potentially useful would have been to disable the one-way bearing
>where the spindle enters the gearbox. There are some rollers that can be
>removed. But I forgot to do that before fixing the drill in place. So
>finding out what that does will have to wait for the next build.

I would have thought you'd just pedal-start and then engage the motor.
I realize it's a different thing, but I rode a Solex moped for a year
around Lausanne, Switzerland when I was a student there, and it was
pedal-start. Very simple: no clutch, no starter cord, and it worked
great.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 22:45:16 -0700, Gunner Asch <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 23:41:36 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 19 Jul 2015 02:32:16 GMT, Puckdropper
>><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>>krw <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> On 18 Jul 2015 07:44:14 GMT, Puckdropper
>>>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>I've taken to drilling in the highest clutch setting for most holes.
>>>>>If the drill bit catches, the drill won't try to twist my hand off.
>>>>>When I need a the extra to get through the hole, it's a simple click
>>>>>over to drill mode.
>>>>>
>>>>>FWIW, most the holes I drill are less than 1/4".
>>>>>
>>>> Wow! A 1/4" drill bit is going to twist your hand off? What are you
>>>> drilling?
>>>>
>>>
>>>Scratch that last comment... Now that I've stopped to think a little more
>>>about what actually causes most issues, it's probably the 1/2"+ holes
>>>drilled with spade bits.
>>>
>>>While the drill is not likely to actually hurt me if the bit catches, I'd
>>>rather have the chuck slip instead of my hand suddenly move.
>>>
>>Even a 1/2" spade bit... But I get your point. I wasn't thinking
>>about spade bits (rarely use them) and they can get rather large. I
>>still don't use the clutch, though. I don't believe I've ever used
>>the clutch on any of my drills.
>
>I was drilling a dozen holes in cast iron last month with a 5" spade
>bit.
>
>Not exactly something that can be run in a drill motor
>
>http://www.muskegontool.com/spade-drils.html

No, I don't think a cordless drill is the right tool for that job,
either. ;-)

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:12:58 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:

>krw wrote:
>> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> [email protected] says...
>>>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>>>> says...
>>>>>> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>>>>> What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>>>>> You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>>>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>>>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>>>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>>>>
>>>> John
>>> I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>>> is locked out.
>> My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?
>
>He described what he wanted perfectly clear. He wants to be able to
>apply more torque before the clutch slips. gee-whiz! ; )

At the last click, it won't.

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 06:05:09 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, huntres23
>@optonline.net says...
>>
>> On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:04:30 -0400, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 20:42:23 -0400, "J. Clarke"
>> ><[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >>In article <[email protected]>,
>> >>[email protected] says...
>> >>>
>> >>> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> >>> news:[email protected]:
>> >>>
>> >>> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>> >>> > says...
>> >>> >>
>> >>> >> I need more torque before the clutch slips.
>> >>>
>> >>> > What are you doing that needs more torque before the clutch slips?
>> >>>
>> >>> > You might want to look into an impact driver instead.
>> >>>
>> >>> That would be my thought as well. Or, if you're drilling and
>> >>> the clutch is slipping, that probably means you're using too
>> >>> big of a bit, and need to move to a corded drill.
>> >>>
>> >>> John
>> >>
>> >>I dunno about _his_ but mine has a "drill" setting in which the clutch
>> >>is locked out.
>> >
>> >My thought exactly. Just what is he trying to accomplish?
>>
>> He's using it to power a bicycle, and he's made some interesting
>> reports about it.
>
>If that's what he's doing then why does he need the clutch to slip?

I don't remember. He's discussed it, and you'll find discussion about
it over the past few weeks.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 11:13:17 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:

<Snip>
>> What I design is simple as possible because I have to build it (with
>> hand tools). Having 90% of the gadgetry already provided in the cordless
>> drill is wonderful. On my electric bike, there are no pedals. I just
>> stuck the cordless drill on the bottom bracket, like this one but done
>> better...
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtmSXgjXXB8
>>
>> The most difficult task is building the structure that holds the drill
>> to the bottom bracket. The location of the drill makes it easy to
>> operate the trigger by foot. And eventually you must add foot pegs...
>
>...and there's this:
>
>https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/add-e-simply-add-electricity-to-your-bicycle#/story

... and there is this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGOled86Sjo