I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple, and
was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how "tall" should
they be, and given that thickness and height, to what radius should I
round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm planning on making up a
template for them, and then shaping them with a router. Any rule of
thumb for this? (heh. any boondock saints fans?)
JP
Wish I had one like yours sometimes though.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW (in [email protected]) said:
>
> | It'll cost you a hundred bucks just to turn mine on.
>
> Your machine beats the daylights out of mine for precision...
>
> ...but mine turns on a lot easier :-)
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
>
>
On Nov 29, 6:47 pm, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple, and
> was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how "tall" should
> they be, and given that thickness and height, to what radius should I
> round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm planning on making up a
> template for them, and then shaping them with a router. Any rule of
> thumb for this? (heh. any boondock saints fans?)
All right, I've done a bit of googling and found a few different
techniques for estimating how much crown to use. Now for the math
jocks. I'd like to have my cauls be of a constant radius, so I can use
the whole length or any portion thereof. If I want to have a 40"
length with a crown of 1/10" in the middle, I'm drawing an arc of what
radius? Thanks.
JP
[email protected] wrote:
> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
> --
Wouldn't that result in a board that is 'skinnier' in the middle? I
thought that for a clamping caul you wanted the board to be 'thicker'
in the middle.
Maybe I'm confused about what you are describing, though...
Mike
On Nov 29, 9:56 pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >All right, I've done a bit of googling and found a few different
> >techniques for estimating how much crown to use. Now for the math
> >jocks. I'd like to have my cauls be of a constant radius, so I can use
> >the whole length or any portion thereof. If I want to have a 40"
> >length with a crown of 1/10" in the middle, I'm drawing an arc of what
> >radius? Thanks.2000.05 inches (166 feet 8.05 inches)
Oh. I'm gonna need a bigger trammel.
JP
On Nov 29, 11:29 pm, [email protected] () wrote:
> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
Maybe someone with a CNC router could start selling templates. Until
then, I think this is the way to go.
JP
PS: I'll give someone $40 for a 4' CNC'd arc with a 2000.05" radius.
Plus shipping. 3/8 or 1/2 inch baltic birch or similar plywood.
Seriously.
Morris, check your email.
JP
On Nov 30, 6:36 pm, "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Jay Pique (in [email protected])
> said:
>
> | On Nov 29, 11:29 pm, [email protected] () wrote:
> || You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top
> || of another, screw through one end into the board below. Now,
> || etiher by hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so
> || it's now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's
> || stressed like this, screw down the other end to the lower board.
> || Then cut on tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit
> || to FWW I think)
> |
> | Maybe someone with a CNC router could start selling templates.
> | Until then, I think this is the way to go.
> |
> | JP
> |
> | PS: I'll give someone $40 for a 4' CNC'd arc with a 2000.05" radius.
> | Plus shipping. 3/8 or 1/2 inch baltic birch or similar plywood.
> | Seriously.
>
> Would you like a 40" arc in a 48" piece - or the arc across the entire
> 48"? I'd be happy to take you up on that if you'll accept 1/4"
> tempered hardboard or spring for the BB.
>
> The 1/4" material is less expensive to buy and ship; and can be used
> to produce additional templates out of whatever you'd /really/ like.
> [ B'sides, I already have the hardboard in the shop :-) ]
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Jay Pique wrote:
>> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of=
>> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
>> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
>> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed lik=
e
>> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
>> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I thin=
k)
>=20
> Maybe someone with a CNC router could start selling templates.=A0=A0U=
ntil
> then, I think this is the way to go.
I think you're all getting carried away. I just took a hand plane and c=
ut what
seemed to be adequate. Been using them for years. Don't overcomplicat=
e
things.
--=20
It's turtles, all the way down
Jay Pique (in [email protected])
said:
| I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple,
| and was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how
| "tall" should they be, and given that thickness and height, to what
| radius should I round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm
| planning on making up a template for them, and then shaping them
| with a router. Any rule of thumb for this? (heh. any boondock
| saints fans?)
You can find a "rule of thumb" at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/CNC/cove_geom.html
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Jay Pique (in [email protected])
said:
| On Nov 29, 11:29 pm, [email protected] () wrote:
|| You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top
|| of another, screw through one end into the board below. Now,
|| etiher by hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so
|| it's now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's
|| stressed like this, screw down the other end to the lower board.
|| Then cut on tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit
|| to FWW I think)
|
| Maybe someone with a CNC router could start selling templates.
| Until then, I think this is the way to go.
|
| JP
|
| PS: I'll give someone $40 for a 4' CNC'd arc with a 2000.05" radius.
| Plus shipping. 3/8 or 1/2 inch baltic birch or similar plywood.
| Seriously.
Would you like a 40" arc in a 48" piece - or the arc across the entire
48"? I'd be happy to take you up on that if you'll accept 1/4"
tempered hardboard or spring for the BB.
The 1/4" material is less expensive to buy and ship; and can be used
to produce additional templates out of whatever you'd /really/ like.
[ B'sides, I already have the hardboard in the shop :-) ]
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
CW (in [email protected]) said:
| It'll cost you a hundred bucks just to turn mine on.
Your machine beats the daylights out of mine for precision...
...but mine turns on a lot easier :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 16:10:18 -0800, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Jay Pique wrote:
>
>>> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
>>> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
>>> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
>>> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
>>> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
>>> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
>>
>> Maybe someone with a CNC router could start selling templates. Until
>> then, I think this is the way to go.
>
>I think you're all getting carried away. I just took a hand plane and cut what
>seemed to be adequate. Been using them for years. Don't overcomplicate
>things.
You beat me to it. For that slight of a curve and given that cauls
are not german timepieces, eyeball it with a #5 and start gluing.
Dave Hall
Wed, Nov 29, 2006, 3:47pm (EST-3) [email protected] (Jay=A0Pique)
doth proclaim:
I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls <snip>
I use some on occassion, but so seldom I always make them up anew
each time. And each time they're more or less "custom" made, because no
two things clamped are ever the same. So, I'd think that unless you
plan on making, and clamping, a lot of the same things, you might be
better off either making one every time you need one, or making several
versions. I don't have any "rule" on radious, etc., I follow, just get
'em to where they seem good; a case of "close enough" is "good enough".
JOAT
I am, therefore I think.
Radius = 2000.05 inches.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Nov 29, 6:47 pm, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple, and
> > was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how "tall" should
> > they be, and given that thickness and height, to what radius should I
> > round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm planning on making up a
> > template for them, and then shaping them with a router. Any rule of
> > thumb for this? (heh. any boondock saints fans?)
>
> All right, I've done a bit of googling and found a few different
> techniques for estimating how much crown to use. Now for the math
> jocks. I'd like to have my cauls be of a constant radius, so I can use
> the whole length or any portion thereof. If I want to have a 40"
> length with a crown of 1/10" in the middle, I'm drawing an arc of what
> radius? Thanks.
>
> JP
>
It'll cost you a hundred bucks just to turn mine on.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Nov 29, 11:29 pm, [email protected] () wrote:
> PS: I'll give someone $40 for a 4' CNC'd arc with a 2000.05" radius.
> Plus shipping. 3/8 or 1/2 inch baltic birch or similar plywood.
> Seriously.
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Mike <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
>> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
>> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
>> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
>> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
>> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
>> --
>
>
>Wouldn't that result in a board that is 'skinnier' in the middle? I
>thought that for a clamping caul you wanted the board to be 'thicker'
>in the middle.
>
>Maybe I'm confused about what you are describing, though...
>
>Mike
>
whatever, if one board is skinnier in the middle, waht does that make
the board it was cut from? Actually, it doesn't matter, IMHO ideal
would be a caul that was curved and of equal thickness & width (Kind
of like HD lumber but more consistent :) ). Sometimes with a caul, you
may want to put a clamp at each end; then you want the convex side
facing against the "clampee" Other times, a single clamp in the middle
will be adequate; then, you would want the concave side of the caul
against the workpiece.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
>All right, I've done a bit of googling and found a few different
>techniques for estimating how much crown to use. Now for the math
>jocks. I'd like to have my cauls be of a constant radius, so I can use
>the whole length or any portion thereof. If I want to have a 40"
>length with a crown of 1/10" in the middle, I'm drawing an arc of what
>radius? Thanks.
2000.05 inches (166 feet 8.05 inches)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On 30 Nov 2006 14:53:38 -0800, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>On Nov 29, 9:56 pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >All right, I've done a bit of googling and found a few different
>> >techniques for estimating how much crown to use. Now for the math
>> >jocks. I'd like to have my cauls be of a constant radius, so I can use
>> >the whole length or any portion thereof. If I want to have a 40"
>> >length with a crown of 1/10" in the middle, I'm drawing an arc of what
>> >radius? Thanks.2000.05 inches (166 feet 8.05 inches)
>
>Oh. I'm gonna need a bigger trammel.
>JP
There are other methods to use. A trammel is great for a direct cut,
but there really are other ways to get this.
FWW had an article in there mag a couple of years ago called "Cutting
big curves"
Jay Pique wrote:
> I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple, and
> was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how "tall"
> should they be, and given that thickness and height, to what radius
> should I round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm planning on
> making up a template for them, and then shaping them with a router.
> Any rule of thumb for this? (heh. any boondock saints fans?)
> JP
Take a look here http://www.newwoodworker.com/ they got complete
instructions on making them plus lots of other hints. Jim
--
In article <[email protected]>,
Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking of making some dedicated clamping cauls out of maple, and
>was wondering about dimensions. Say I use 8/4 stock, how "tall" should
>they be, and given that thickness and height, to what radius should I
>round them? (They'll be 40" in length.) I'm planning on making up a
>template for them, and then shaping them with a router. Any rule of
>thumb for this? (heh. any boondock saints fans?)
>JP
>
You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "Mike" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> You can cut them much faster on a table saw. Put one board on top of
>> another, screw through one end into the board below. Now, etiher by
>> hand or using C clamps or whatever, bow the top board so it's
>> now-bowed edge extends over the lower board. While it's stressed like
>> this, screw down the other end to the lower board. Then cut on
>> tablesaw, & voila, one curved board. (Not sure, credit to FWW I think)
>
>Wouldn't that result in a board that is 'skinnier' in the middle?
Depends on which side of the bow you cut on. Cut on the concave side, and it's
thicker in the middle; cut on the convex side, and it's thicker at the ends.
>I thought that for a clamping caul you wanted the board to be 'thicker'
>in the middle.
You do.
>
>Maybe I'm confused about what you are describing, though...
The description sounds like cutting on the convex side, which is not what you
want. Using the same technique, though, and cutting on the concave side, seems
to me that it should work just fine.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.