I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and I'm
finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is beautiful
wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has up to 30+ rings
per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench, and have a few odd
drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a lot.
Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the bugs
are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no suspicious
sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice, and know the look
of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make sure.
I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as part of a
dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill most
wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that uses a
temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some reasonably
low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
Thanks!
Redwood dealers - bears, tables... have to have their stuff Gassed.
A company (exterminator) puts it in a container and sets off the gas.
The tank is pressurized to make sure it gets into the wood. I also think
a vacuum is drawn first - to draw the chemical into the wood.
I now this as my table was delayed for almost a week. Ya pays your money
and ya wait!
Martin
scritch wrote:
> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and I'm
> finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is beautiful
> wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has up to 30+ rings
> per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench, and have a few odd
> drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a lot.
>
> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the bugs
> are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no suspicious
> sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice, and know the look
> of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>
> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>
> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make sure.
> I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as part of a
> dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill most
> wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that uses a
> temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some reasonably
> low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>
> Thanks!
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
> I have bugs that ate a tree to nothing. I cut a very nasty Honey Locust.
> I even thought about trying to turn it - but it was to far gone while
> green.
>
> The Locust when cut bleed a white sap that must have been the sugar
> within. Within months the tree was almost powder - but the fire ants moved
> in and
> got the bugs and then the rest of the sap. Almost powder in a year.
>
> I really wonder about the 130 - likely 130 C if valid.
>
> Martin
here's the cite forthe requirements.
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/import_export/plants/plant_exports/wpm/wpm_heat_treatment.shtml
basilisk
scritch wrote:
> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and I'm
> finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is beautiful
> wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has up to 30+ rings
> per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench, and have a few odd
> drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a lot.
>
> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the bugs
> are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no suspicious
> sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice, and know the look
> of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>
> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>
> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make sure.
> I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as part of a
> dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill most
> wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that uses a
> temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some reasonably
> low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>
> Thanks!
USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
This will kill any insects present.
Basilisk
I have bugs that ate a tree to nothing. I cut a very nasty Honey Locust.
I even thought about trying to turn it - but it was to far gone while green.
The Locust when cut bleed a white sap that must have been the sugar within.
Within months the tree was almost powder - but the fire ants moved in and
got the bugs and then the rest of the sap. Almost powder in a year.
I really wonder about the 130 - likely 130 C if valid.
Martin
scritch wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>> basilisk wrote:
>>> scritch wrote:
>>>
>>>> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and
>>>> I'm finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is
>>>> beautiful wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has
>>>> up to 30+ rings per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench,
>>>> and have a few odd drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a
>>>> lot.
>>>>
>>>> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
>>>> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
>>>> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the
>>>> bugs are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no
>>>> suspicious sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice,
>>>> and know the look of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>>>>
>>>> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
>>>> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>>>>
>>>> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make
>>>> sure. I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as
>>>> part of a dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill
>>>> most wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that
>>>> uses a temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some
>>>> reasonably low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>> USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
>>>
>>> This will kill any insects present.
>>>
>>> Basilisk
>>
>> Should be able to easily do that with black plastic and sunlight.
>>
>
>
> Only 130 F? That seems cool. Maybe that's why I never hear of a
> termite problem in Arizona.
>
> Time to set up my temporary "oven"!
>
>
dadiOH wrote:
> basilisk wrote:
>> scritch wrote:
>>
>>> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and
>>> I'm finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is
>>> beautiful wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has
>>> up to 30+ rings per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench,
>>> and have a few odd drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a
>>> lot.
>>>
>>> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
>>> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
>>> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the
>>> bugs are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no
>>> suspicious sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice,
>>> and know the look of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>>>
>>> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
>>> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>>>
>>> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make
>>> sure. I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as
>>> part of a dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill
>>> most wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that
>>> uses a temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some
>>> reasonably low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>> USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
>>
>> This will kill any insects present.
>>
>> Basilisk
>
> Should be able to easily do that with black plastic and sunlight.
>
Only 130 F? That seems cool. Maybe that's why I never hear of a
termite problem in Arizona.
Time to set up my temporary "oven"!
"scritch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> dadiOH wrote:
>> basilisk wrote:
>>> scritch wrote:
>>>
>>>> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and
>>>> I'm finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is
>>>> beautiful wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has
>>>> up to 30+ rings per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench,
>>>> and have a few odd drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a
>>>> lot.
>>>>
>>>> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
>>>> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
>>>> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the
>>>> bugs are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no
>>>> suspicious sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice,
>>>> and know the look of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>>>>
>>>> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
>>>> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>>>>
>>>> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make
>>>> sure. I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as
>>>> part of a dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill
>>>> most wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that
>>>> uses a temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some
>>>> reasonably low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>> USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
>>>
>>> This will kill any insects present.
>>>
>>> Basilisk
>>
>> Should be able to easily do that with black plastic and sunlight.
>>
>
>
> Only 130 F? That seems cool. Maybe that's why I never hear of a termite
> problem in Arizona.
>
> Time to set up my temporary "oven"!
there are only 2 kinds of houses in az. those that have termites, and those
that will have them.
ground temps are way under 130. for that matter, the highest recorded temp
in phoenix was only 127F.
regards,
charlie
cave creek, az
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>> USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
>>>>
>>>> This will kill any insects present.
>>>>
>>>> Basilisk
>>>
>>> Should be able to easily do that with black plastic and sunlight.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Only 130 F? That seems cool. Maybe that's why I never hear of a termite
>> problem in Arizona.
>>
>> Time to set up my temporary "oven"!
>
> there are only 2 kinds of houses in az. those that have termites, and
> those that will have them.
>
> ground temps are way under 130. for that matter, the highest recorded temp
> in phoenix was only 127F.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
To be more precise it is 56 C or 132.8 F,
not much different than my original
post but I should have looked it
up in place of relying on my faulty memory.
A lot you wreck menbers may have noticed
the "HT" part of the grade stamp on lumber,
the "HT" indicates that the material meets
these requirements.
basilisk
basilisk
basilisk wrote:
> scritch wrote:
>
>> I scored some (almost) free CVG Douglas fir several months ago, and
>> I'm finally getting around to thinking of its best use. It is
>> beautiful wood, ruler-straight grain, clear as Lake Tahoe, and has
>> up to 30+ rings per inch. The pieces were part of an old workbench,
>> and have a few odd drillholes here and there, but I like used wood a
>> lot.
>>
>> Unfortunately, there are also a lot of bug holes, from at least two
>> kinds of bugs, given the diameters of the holes. I have had the wood
>> for several months now, and have seen absolutely no sign that the
>> bugs are still in there. No bugs, no eggs, no bug parts, no
>> suspicious sawdust. I have had carpenter ants in my house twice,
>> and know the look of ant sawdust, but have seen nothing on this fir.
>>
>> Is there any way short of cutting the wood into little strips to find
>> out if the bugs are still present and alive somehow?
>>
>> Alternatively, I could treat the wood preemptively, just to make
>> sure. I'd rather not use poison, because I intend to use the wood as
>> part of a dresser. Does anyone know how much heat it takes to kill
>> most wood-eating insects? I saw a method for killing bedbugs that
>> uses a temporary styrofoam heat box for an entire mattress. If some
>> reasonably low heat could kill the bugs, I could rig one up myself.
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> USDA requires 130 degrees F core temperature for 30 minutes,
>
> This will kill any insects present.
>
> Basilisk
Should be able to easily do that with black plastic and sunlight.
--
dadiOH
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