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whit3rd

04/04/2011 1:09 PM

Re: Repairing/refinishing a divided light door

On Monday, April 4, 2011 6:40:10 AM UTC-7, Limp Arbor wrote:

> Door1
> 36" wide.
> Veneered (~3/16") in either oak or chestnut with a little lifting and
> a few small splits ...
> All 15 panes of glass are good.

> If I go with door 1 should I remove all the glass before stripping,
> sanding and finishing?

If you're OK with the distressed look, don't bother with a full stripping
and sanding. I always expect doors to have character.

If you really want to get down to bare wood, I'd remove the glass
and probably would get a glass shop to cut new glass for it; nowadays,
it has to be tempered. For a little more money, it can be low-e
sandwiched doublepane as well.


This topic has 2 replies

Sc

Sonny

in reply to whit3rd on 04/04/2011 1:09 PM

04/04/2011 5:47 PM

> If you really want to get down to bare wood, I'd remove the glass
> and probably would get a glass shop to cut new glass for it; nowadays,
> it has to be tempered. =A0 For a little more money, it can be low-e
> sandwiched doublepane as well.

I had forgotten about being tempered. Thanks for the reminder. I
have a back door with multi-lights, plate glass. I often worry about
it.

Sonny

Mj

"Morgans"

in reply to whit3rd on 04/04/2011 1:09 PM

05/04/2011 3:55 PM

"Sonny" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> If you really want to get down to bare wood, I'd remove the glass
> and probably would get a glass shop to cut new glass for it; nowadays,
> it has to be tempered. For a little more money, it can be low-e
> sandwiched doublepane as well.

I had forgotten about being tempered. Thanks for the reminder. I
have a back door with multi-lights, plate glass. I often worry about
it.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Tempered is good, but most code only calls for that when it is closer than 4
or 5 feet off the ground.


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