I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.
Thanks.
JP
Jay Pique wrote:
> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
Renting a gas cutoff saw is the easiest way out, but it'll cost you a
bit. I like the Makita better than the Stihl or Partner saws - better
balance. The rental store will measure the diamond saw blade before
and after you use it and charge you for blade usage. The 14" blade can
go through a 4" slab with no problem. Don't try to cut through the
slab in one shot. Take a few passes. Most 4" slabs have welded wire
mesh instead of rebar - some don't have any reinforcement. The regular
segmented diamond blade will go through the mesh.
R
Lyndell Thompson wrote:
>snip After it is scored cut as much as you can stand
> and finish with a sledge hammer. If you get a saw with a diamond blade it
> will cut the rebar........but there is no need to go more than half the way
> thru (problably not that much). Some blades and saws you can use water
> with......really cuts down on dust. You only get one set of eyes and lungs.
> Use a mask and goggles.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to borrow a target saw (is that
the right term? That's what we used to call it when I mason tended.).
It's sort of bugging me that I didn't think of that from the beginning.
The cut edge won't be visible, so I could hack it up how I wanted, but
it's probably a one hour job with the right tool.
JP
HI,
I removed two edges (10-40 inch wide and 0-
12inch wide wedges) on my patio last year. One
can make a reasonable cut with a normal circular
saw and a cheap diamond ( ~$20) blade. After a
couple of passes you can get 2-2.5 inches deep,
flooding with water after each pass. With luck
you might get through the rebar.
If possible dig along side your slab and under it
( A pick axe works well for this) to give the
concrete somewhere to move. Then a sledge hammer
will make quick work of it. I had access to a 1"
rotary hammer, and the sledge was much faster. If
you do use the rotary hammer, try removing a few
inches at a time.
Thanks
Roger Haar
*************************************************
Jay Pique wrote:
>
> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>
> Thanks.
>
> JP
On Sat, 20 May 2006 22:03:32 GMT, "CJ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I had to do this very job once. I went down to a rental place and got a
>two-stroke (engine) hand-held concrete wet saw. I scored where I wanted the
>break to be, and then used a sledge to break the slab at my score mark. I
>did cut down about an inch with the saw.
>
>I then used my reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the rebar even
>with the break. The score I made cracked so even that I did not have to
>refinish anything cosmetically other than mixing some brick mortar to cover
>the exposed ends of the rebar.
>
>Worked for me.
>
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
>> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
>> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
>> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
>> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
>> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> JP
>>
>
Ditto on that advice, score it first and you will end up with a much
neater job. I used a worm drive skill saw with a concrete blade to
score mine. Wet saw certainly would be better, dry saw made much dust
and used up the whole blade. Then I rented an electric jack hammer
and took it off. cut the steel with a recip. Came off very clean.
Frank
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 20 May 2006 22:03:32 GMT, "CJ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
>>> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
>>> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
>>> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
>>> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
>>> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>
> ... snip
>
>>I had to do this very job once. I went down to a rental place and got a
>>two-stroke (engine) hand-held concrete wet saw. I scored where I wanted
>>the
>>break to be, and then used a sledge to break the slab at my score mark. I
>>did cut down about an inch with the saw.
>>
>>I then used my reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the rebar
>>even
>>with the break. The score I made cracked so even that I did not have to
>>refinish anything cosmetically other than mixing some brick mortar to
>>cover
>>the exposed ends of the rebar.
>>
>>Worked for me.
>>
>
> Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the concrete saw to cut the
> whole depth?
There are two reasons at least.....maybe more. It is so much work handling
those large gas powered saws (back breaking work) so unless you have to,
cutting part the way thru then finishing with a few quik blows of the hammer
makes sense. The best reason though is: if you are using a diamond blade it
is designed for very hard matierials but, if you use it on soft matierials
it will disappear quickly. If you don't believe me go ahead and set that
$250 blade down in a sandbox with it running. When you pull it back up you
will have the metal blade but the diamond tool steel will be very worn(maybe
gone). I learned this the hard way $$$. Always leave at least an inch of
concrete to break off to save those blades. I admit I don't understand all
this either, how can a blade cut rebar and hard concrete then fail in dirt
and sand. but it does. I hope I havn't confused you more. :-)
Lyndell
I had to do this very job once. I went down to a rental place and got a
two-stroke (engine) hand-held concrete wet saw. I scored where I wanted the
break to be, and then used a sledge to break the slab at my score mark. I
did cut down about an inch with the saw.
I then used my reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the rebar even
with the break. The score I made cracked so even that I did not have to
refinish anything cosmetically other than mixing some brick mortar to cover
the exposed ends of the rebar.
Worked for me.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>
> Thanks.
>
> JP
>
On Sat, 20 May 2006 22:03:32 GMT, "CJ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
>> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
>> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
>> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
>> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
>> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
... snip
>I had to do this very job once. I went down to a rental place and got a
>two-stroke (engine) hand-held concrete wet saw. I scored where I wanted the
>break to be, and then used a sledge to break the slab at my score mark. I
>did cut down about an inch with the saw.
>
>I then used my reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the rebar even
>with the break. The score I made cracked so even that I did not have to
>refinish anything cosmetically other than mixing some brick mortar to cover
>the exposed ends of the rebar.
>
>Worked for me.
>
Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the concrete saw to cut the
whole depth?
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Jay Pique wrote:
> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>
> Thanks.
>
> JP
>
Rent a concrete cutting saw. Here's an example:
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/features.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
Good question Lyndell....I bet it has something to do with sanding action
(no pun..really)....maybe compare it to bead or sand blasting a surface
clean ?? Just guessing here...I'm no expert.
You answered the gentleman with aplumb...my exact reasons. I got charged
for every bit of blade used...and yea, the guy reminded me that the blades
were $250-$350 each...almost scared me away actually lol.
"Lyndell Thompson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:AR%[email protected]...
>
> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 20 May 2006 22:03:32 GMT, "CJ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
>>>> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
>>>> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
>>>> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
>>>> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
>>>> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>>
>> ... snip
>>
>>>I had to do this very job once. I went down to a rental place and got a
>>>two-stroke (engine) hand-held concrete wet saw. I scored where I wanted
>>>the
>>>break to be, and then used a sledge to break the slab at my score mark.
>>>I
>>>did cut down about an inch with the saw.
>>>
>>>I then used my reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the rebar
>>>even
>>>with the break. The score I made cracked so even that I did not have to
>>>refinish anything cosmetically other than mixing some brick mortar to
>>>cover
>>>the exposed ends of the rebar.
>>>
>>>Worked for me.
>>>
>>
>> Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the concrete saw to cut the
>> whole depth?
>
> There are two reasons at least.....maybe more. It is so much work handling
> those large gas powered saws (back breaking work) so unless you have to,
> cutting part the way thru then finishing with a few quik blows of the
> hammer makes sense. The best reason though is: if you are using a diamond
> blade it is designed for very hard matierials but, if you use it on soft
> matierials it will disappear quickly. If you don't believe me go ahead and
> set that $250 blade down in a sandbox with it running. When you pull it
> back up you will have the metal blade but the diamond tool steel will be
> very worn(maybe gone). I learned this the hard way $$$. Always leave at
> least an inch of concrete to break off to save those blades. I admit I
> don't understand all this either, how can a blade cut rebar and hard
> concrete then fail in dirt and sand. but it does. I hope I havn't confused
> you more. :-)
> Lyndell
>
>
>
>
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
> about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
> either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
> the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
> of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
> HR2455 that draws 7amps.
>
> Thanks.
>
> JP
>
A good straight 2x4 layed in place on the line to be cut.......with a person
standing on it or screwed with tapcon screws will aid in getting a straight
line started. It will burn the 2x4 some but not hurt the blade. Let it rub
right against it untill you have a groove 1/4" deep.Then you can hold the
blade in the groove. As others have mentioned you must get a groove cut
straight to do a good job. After it is scored cut as much as you can stand
and finish with a sledge hammer. If you get a saw with a diamond blade it
will cut the rebar........but there is no need to go more than half the way
thru (problably not that much). Some blades and saws you can use water
with......really cuts down on dust. You only get one set of eyes and lungs.
Use a mask and goggles.
Good luck Lyndell