Pulled the trigger on a Woodworker II

On 2/11/2014 5:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:13:17 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
>> make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
>> the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.
>
> So, essentially you're jury rigging your own scoring blade. Simple but
> effective trick. That's a good idea. I'll have to give it a try.
> Thanks.
>


That trick is as close as you can probably get to a TS equipped with the
up front scoring blade. The advantage to actually having a scoring
blade TS is that the smaller front scoring blade rotates in reverse to
the main blade so that the teeth are cutting up into the bottom of the
panel vs. down. Still the shallow cut tends to work very effectually
and the blade raised modestly high for the through cuts helps to cut
down on splintering on the top side.

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
>I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.

I understand your excitement, but I hope you realize there are types
of wood the WWII should NOT be used on. At least not if you have any
hope of ever having sex again...

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

*snip*

>
> And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
> plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
> for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
> even on a fresh blade just out of habit.
>

Do we have to tune in next week, Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:

> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:13:17 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
>>make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
>>the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.
>
> So, essentially you're jury rigging your own scoring blade. Simple but
> effective trick. That's a good idea. I'll have to give it a try.
> Thanks.
>

It might work better than a scoring blade. The score will be the exact
width of the final cut, and there's nothing extra to adjust. It will
work if cutting dados or just making regular cuts.

I've used masking tape to reduce tear out, but that's about all it does:
reduce it. On a surface like Melamine, any little bit of tear out shows
up.

Thanks for the tip, Leon. I will put it to good use with difficult
materials.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

>I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.

>60 tooth blade.

>Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
>good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.

60 tooth is way too many teeth for ripping... the gullets are way too small
to carry the waste away... and it is undoubtedly a cross cut grind.

>So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
>buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night

Better than the 60 tooth for sure but I'd take my WWII off and put on my
Freud 24 tooth rip blade for such a task. A rip grind and large gullets do a
better job... I use a standard kerf blade as I've got 3 HP. If you have a
1.5 or 1.75 HP saw the thin kerf may be better...

The vast majority of the time my WWII is on the saw but when lots of ripping
is involved it's either the rip blade or the bandsaw!

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

>I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.

>60 tooth blade.

>Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
>good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.

60 tooth is way too many teeth for ripping... the gullets are way too small
to carry the waste away... and it is undoubtedly a cross cut grind.

>So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
>buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night

Better than the 60 tooth for sure but I'd take my WWII off and put on my
Freud 24 tooth rip blade for such a task. A rip grind and large gullets do a
better job... I use a standard kerf blade as I've got 3 HP. If you have a
1.5 or 1.75 HP saw the thin kerf may be better...

The vast majority of the time my WWII is on the saw but when lots of ripping
is involved it's either the rip blade or the bandsaw!

On 2/11/2014 7:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

> You just described my kitchen, unfortunately. :-)
> I'm quite certain, however, that this is not done today.

Probably regional, but around here 95% of the cabinets in 'builder
built' spec/custom homes (excluding most large scale, National, tract
home builders who use prefab boxes) are still 'built-in place', but not
in the same manner as the old days, when union carpenters were still
aplenty.

Nailed together, solid wood faceframes, plywood side panels and floors,
backless, and attached straight to the drywall, is prevalent today.

(in the good old days, the wall behind the cabinets was often tongue and
groove lumber, or 3/4" plywood -- and in some cases where the room was
paneled, paneling.)

Done properly and by a skilled cabinetmaker, particularly in old
construction and in restoration work, still a good way to maximize space
and get a custom fit.

Unfortunately, today it is rarely done properly, even in million dollar
homes in many areas ... mostly due to a lack of unskilled, unsupervised
labor, who take every shortcut imaginable because they have no cultural
basis for pride in their work, or skin in the game.

Add to that the fact that construction lumber nowadays is plantation
grown, new growth, varying widely in moisture content despite being kiln
dried, and therefore unstable, structures are subject to movement due to
dimensional instability in the months/years to come. Meaning nothing
attached stays square and in place.

I am routinely called upon to fix kitchen and bath cabinet doors,
drawers, trim, crown, and reattach intermediate stiles, on $1m+ homes
that are less than ten years old.

And that is just the tip of the iceberg ... it is hard to believe some
of the framing, electrical and plumbing crap we uncover when doing a
remodel on homes less than twenty years old these days.

In short, it is almost unbelievable the prevalence of poorly built
residences in even the high dollar, prestigious neighborhoods in some
regions these days.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/11/2014 7:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> message news:[email protected]
>>>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this,
>>>> so that after it arrives I can talk more about how it
>>>> works. I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and
>>>> it was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
>>>> sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my
>>>> sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw
>>>> blades, and it's not likely at all that I'm getting
>>>> the same quality of job out of it that any standard
>>>> sharpening service would provide. But - I did it,
>>>> and the blade did cut noticeably better. Only takes
>>>> about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>>>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still
>>>> smoking up the garage pretty good. The cuts were
>>>> very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>>>> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
>>>> the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
>>>> the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site
>>>> that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very
>>>> fast - they are located only 1/2 way across NY state
>>>> from me. Could possibly be here as early as Tuesday.
>>>> I'm looking forward to this thing.
>>>
>>>
>>> Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many
>>> teeth and ATB then spend a little more money and buy a
>>> 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is meant for ripping.
>>> Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud still
>>> made them.
>> The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
>> It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.
>
> True. But it is also true that a lower tooth blade rips better. Especially
> a flat ground one.
>



And that is probably true but Mike is moving from a blade that he
sharpens himself, his old blade probably has shark teeth or flint rock
for teeth, the previous owner of the blade was Fred Flintstone, to one
of the very best blades.

He wants the most bang for his buck and typically a blade that is better
for ripping is not so good for crosscutting where as a "very good"
general or combo blade is great for cross cutting and still pretty darn
good for ripping by comparison 99.5 percent of the time.

If his saw is set up properly he will likely wonder why he would ever
need to switch to rip blade and or see limited benefit that may not
justify purchasing a good rip blade that can out perform the WWII 40 tooth.

Looooooong ago I swapped blades when going from ripping to cross
cutting. There are still advantages to that, "but for me" the
advantages in the last 23 years have not warranted the time to swap
blades. AAMOF I don't think I own a dedicated rip blade any more.

I'm not trying to preach to the choir or to dismiss anything that anyone
has to say about which blade works best for themselves.
I'm mostly replying here to reassure Mike that, if his saw is set up
properly, he is going to be very very happy with this new blade for most
everything that he is going to cut on his TS for a very long time.

And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in plywood
even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due for a
resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques even on a
fresh blade just out of habit.

On 2/11/2014 7:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/11/14, 3:24 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 2/11/2014 3:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 2/11/14, 1:35 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 2/11/2014 1:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
>>>>>> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
>>>>>> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
>>>>>> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
>>>>>> it, you might do more harm.
>>>>>
>>>>> It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier
>>>>> for
>>>>> the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
>>>>> prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put
>>>>> most of
>>>>> the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
>>>>> sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much
>>>>> easier
>>>>> to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding
>>>>> and
>>>>> the final coat on the finished project.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
>>>>> have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with
>>>>> tear-out
>>>>> and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> it also wears out the cutter quicker. Sanding sealer probably less than
>>>> a poly.
>>>
>>> Do you have a source for this information?
>>> I find it hard to believe that any difference would be noticeable at
>>> all, if true.
>>
>>
>> Well cutting anything extra takes it's toll. ;~) But I agree, the
>> benefit probably by far out weighs the disadvantages.
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>> But I agree, pre-finishing would be easier on large ply
>>>> panels... . Tough to match up face frames though. Much easier when you
>>>> are working from the same mix, not further down in the can..
>>>>
>>>
>>> I don't know anyone who makes their face frames out of plywood. :-)
>>
>> Back in the 60's and 70's most new homes built-in cabinets had plywood
>> face frames. Done right the doors and drawer fronts were made from the
>> pieces cut out form the drawer and door openings. Add moldings and
>> those blanks became trimmed out doors just a little bigger than the
>> openings. There was a lot of plunge cutting going on. Not the best way
>> to do things but many many kitchen and bathroom cabinets were built this
>> way.
>>
>
> You just described my kitchen, unfortunately. :-)
> I'm quite certain, however, that this is not done today.
>
>

Hard to say if it is still being done, prefab cabinets are probably more
cost effective labor wise. A local builder in Houston, up until
relatively recently, was still using this method, probably 10 years ago.
It was pretty much an exclusive offered by that builder. It was oddly
enough an option over prefab cabinets. Perry Homes.

On 2/9/2014 7:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after it
> arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.
> Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it up. To be fair,
> my sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's not
> likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of job out of it that any
> standard sharpening service would provide. But - I did it, and the blade
> did cut noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a
> 60 tooth blade.
>
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
> good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
> buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night
> from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could possibly be here as
> early as Tuesday. I'm looking forward to this thing.
>
> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
> I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>


OK Mike, lets hear a report on the new blade!

On 2/11/2014 3:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/11/14, 1:35 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 2/11/2014 1:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
>>>> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
>>>> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
>>>> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
>>>> it, you might do more harm.
>>>
>>> It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)
>>>
>>> I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier for
>>> the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
>>> prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put most of
>>> the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
>>> sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much easier
>>> to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding and
>>> the final coat on the finished project.
>>>
>>> If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
>>> have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with tear-out
>>> and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.
>>>
>>>
>> it also wears out the cutter quicker. Sanding sealer probably less than
>> a poly.
>
> Do you have a source for this information?
> I find it hard to believe that any difference would be noticeable at
> all, if true.


Well cutting anything extra takes it's toll. ;~) But I agree, the
benefit probably by far out weighs the disadvantages.



>
>> But I agree, pre-finishing would be easier on large ply
>> panels... . Tough to match up face frames though. Much easier when you
>> are working from the same mix, not further down in the can..
>>
>
> I don't know anyone who makes their face frames out of plywood. :-)

Back in the 60's and 70's most new homes built-in cabinets had plywood
face frames. Done right the doors and drawer fronts were made from the
pieces cut out form the drawer and door openings. Add moldings and
those blanks became trimmed out doors just a little bigger than the
openings. There was a lot of plunge cutting going on. Not the best way
to do things but many many kitchen and bathroom cabinets were built this
way.

On 2/11/2014 3:24 PM, Leon wrote:

> Back in the 60's and 70's most new homes built-in cabinets had plywood
> face frames. Done right the doors and drawer fronts were made from the
> pieces cut out form the drawer and door openings. Add moldings and
> those blanks became trimmed out doors just a little bigger than the
> openings. There was a lot of plunge cutting going on. Not the best way
> to do things but many many kitchen and bathroom cabinets were built this
> way.


All built-in, and, in the case of base cabinets, most with 2x4 frames to
attach the faceframes to the walls.

Quick, cheap, and surprising enough, lasting longer than many of the
cabinets put in million dollar homes I routinely see, and am hired to
fix, today.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/11/2014 8:42 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
>> plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
>> for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
>> even on a fresh blade just out of habit.
>>
>
> Do we have to tune in next week, Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel?
>
> Puckdropper
>


You probably already know this. When I have a $120 sheet of walnut or
cherry that needs to be cross cut I especially don't like to take
chances with splintering/tear out on the bottom side of the panel, top
too for that matter. If your blade is not high enough you can get some
splintering on the top side of the cut so the higher the better so to
speak. The bottom side of the cut becomes a different matter. The
higher the blade the more likely you will get more severe tear out on
the bottom of the cut.

Common techniques to combat this are to use a straight edge and sharp
marking knife or utility knife to prescore the panel. Also the use of a
zero clearance insert can be of benefit.

The problem with both is that the zero clearance insert eventually
becomes less "zero clearance" and provides less support on the bottom
side of the cut. And the strait edge and scoring knife can be tedious
and or less accurate.

Most better European saws offer a scoring blade that is raised slightly
above the surface and directly in front of the main blade. This scoring
blade's only function is to make the cut through the bottom side of the
panel veneer. Well some might use it for other functions but that is
what it's intended use is.

My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.

On 2/11/2014 12:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
>> plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
>> for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
>> even on a fresh blade just out of habit.
>
> Fire away Leon, because this project will require cutting plywood. Both
> 1/4" walnut ply and 1/2" ply (undecided what that ply will be - it's for the
> dividers and thus will not be as visible.)
>


I responded to puckdropper. ;~)

On 2/9/2014 8:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after it
> arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.
> Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it up. To be fair,
> my sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's not
> likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of job out of it that any
> standard sharpening service would provide. But - I did it, and the blade
> did cut noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a
> 60 tooth blade.
>
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
> good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
> buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night
> from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could possibly be here as
> early as Tuesday. I'm looking forward to this thing.
>
> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
> I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>

You won't regret it at all. 40 or 48 tooth?

--
Jeff

Re plywood faceframes- my SIL made cabinets for a relative. They were pain=
ted with oil base that laid down very well. I was skeptical when he told me=
he was going to make the ff's out of ply. He sanded all exposed edges care=
fully. I don't know how he came up with such void free plywood but I was ve=
ry impressed with the finish...no sign of the layers. It looks just like pa=
inted mdf or solid wood. It is one of those things I would not believe if I=
had not seen it for myself. I still wouldn't do it that way but it worked =
for him.

On 2/11/2014 6:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:13:17 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
>>> make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
>>> the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.
>>
>> So, essentially you're jury rigging your own scoring blade. Simple but
>> effective trick. That's a good idea. I'll have to give it a try.
>> Thanks.
>>
>
> It might work better than a scoring blade. The score will be the exact
> width of the final cut, and there's nothing extra to adjust. It will
> work if cutting dados or just making regular cuts.

Perhaps but many of the scoring blades are actually two thin kerf blades
separated by shims. And some can be spaced far enough apart to work
well when cutting dados. But not quite as necessary since the dados are
relatively shallow cuts to begin with.

Regardless, what I do works well for the reason you mentioned.

Many of the European built TS's that are offered in the US offer the
scoring blade option and many offer videos of how these blades are
adjusted on their web sites. I was looking closely at a Laguna TS with
the scoring blade last year when shopping for a new cabinet saw. I
opted for the industrial SawStop and am very happy today with my choice.




>
> I've used masking tape to reduce tear out, but that's about all it does:
> reduce it. On a surface like Melamine, any little bit of tear out shows
> up.
>
> Thanks for the tip, Leon. I will put it to good use with difficult
> materials.

Obliviously a sharp blade is an advantage but try it out on some scraps
and compare the results by making the scored cut and then completing the
cut vs simply making the cut. There is relatively no advantage to doing
this when ripping.

On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> message news:[email protected]
>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so
>> that after it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>>
>> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it
>> was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
>> sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my sharpener is
>> probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's
>> not likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of
>> job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
>> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut
>> noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to
>> sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up
>> the garage pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but
>> there was some burning on each cut.
>> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
>> the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
>> the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site that
>> Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
>> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could
>> possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
>> forward to this thing.
>
>
> Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many teeth and ATB then
> spend a little more money and buy a 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is
> meant for ripping. Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud still made
> them.
>
>
The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.

If you look all the WW blades are ATB, even their rip blades. Only their
miter saw blade has flat teeth.



--
Jeff

On 2/11/2014 12:27 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> Common techniques to combat this are to use a straight edge and sharp
>> marking knife or utility knife to prescore the panel. Also the use
>> of a zero clearance insert can be of benefit.
>
> The trick with scoring I was already aware of but I don't think I've ever
> done that. So - if you score - do you score right where the center of the
> teeth would be, or cut with the teeth on the waste side of the score? I
> suspect the latter...
>
>>

To do it right, you score on the keeper side of the edge of the cut.
That is quite often both sides of the blade.




>> Most better European saws offer a scoring blade that is raised
>> slightly above the surface and directly in front of the main blade. This
>> scoring blade's only function is to make the cut through the
>> bottom side of the panel veneer. Well some might use it for other
>> functions but that is what it's intended use is.
>>
>> My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
>> make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
>> the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.
>
> This seems to be much more practical.
>

Absolutely, and probably the easiest simplest and fastest. A note, it is
easier to make rough and slightly over sized cuts so that you have
manageable pieces to work with, if you can spare the waste. Then trim
to size making the two height cuts.





One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape down
over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood, that might
splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the tape, unless you
were very careful with the direction that you pull it, you might do more
harm.

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after it
> arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.
> Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it up. To be fair,
> my sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's not
> likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of job out of it that any
> standard sharpening service would provide. But - I did it, and the blade
> did cut noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a
> 60 tooth blade.
>
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
> good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
> buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night
> from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could possibly be here as
> early as Tuesday. I'm looking forward to this thing.
>
> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
> I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>

I can't wait until you get it (the blade)! I'm planning to press the
buy button soon too.

Bill

On 2/9/14, 7:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after it
> arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.
> Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it up. To be fair,
> my sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's not
> likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of job out of it that any
> standard sharpening service would provide. But - I did it, and the blade
> did cut noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a
> 60 tooth blade.
>
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
> good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
> buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night
> from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could possibly be here as
> early as Tuesday. I'm looking forward to this thing.
>
> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
> I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>


That last line was hilarious! What's the website? For the blade, not
the sex.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/9/14, 7:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after
>> it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>>
>> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going
>> so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it
>> up. To be fair, my sharpener is probably best suited for circular
>> saw blades, and it's not likely at all that I'm getting the same
>> quality of job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
>> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut noticeably better. Only
>> takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>>
>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage
>> pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning
>> on each cut. So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the
>> piggy
>> bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it
>> Saturday night from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should
>> be very fast - they are located only 1/2 way across NY state from
>> me. Could possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
>> forward to this thing. Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't
>> had that in so long
>> that I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>>
>
>
> That last line was hilarious! What's the website? For the blade,
> not the sex.

www.sliversmill.com



I think this is about as cheap as you're going to find this blade.


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/9/2014 8:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after
>> it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>>
>> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going
>> so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it
>> up. To be fair, my sharpener is probably best suited for circular
>> saw blades, and it's not likely at all that I'm getting the same
>> quality of job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
>> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut noticeably better. Only
>> takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>>
>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage
>> pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning
>> on each cut. So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the
>> piggy
>> bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it
>> Saturday night from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should
>> be very fast - they are located only 1/2 way across NY state from
>> me. Could possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
>> forward to this thing. Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't
>> had that in so long
>> that I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>>
>
> You won't regret it at all. 40 or 48 tooth?

Sorry - should have said that shouldn't I? 40 tooth.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Larry Kraus wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long
>> that I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>
> I understand your excitement, but I hope you realize there are types
> of wood the WWII should NOT be used on. At least not if you have any
> hope of ever having sex again...

My wife just advised me that's not an issue... TYVM...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so
> that after it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it
> was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
> sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my sharpener is
> probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's
> not likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of
> job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut
> noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to
> sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up
> the garage pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but
> there was some burning on each cut.
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
> the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
> the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site that
> Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could
> possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
> forward to this thing.


Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many teeth and ATB then
spend a little more money and buy a 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is
meant for ripping. Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud still made
them.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so that after it
> arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>
> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it was going so-so.
> Took my blade out and put it in my sharpener and touched it up. To be fair,
> my sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's not
> likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of job out of it that any
> standard sharpening service would provide. But - I did it, and the blade
> did cut noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a
> 60 tooth blade.
>
> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up the garage pretty
> good. The cuts were very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
>
> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash the piggy bank and
> buy a Woodworker II, I finally took the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night
> from a site that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could possibly be here as
> early as Tuesday. I'm looking forward to this thing.
>
> Leon tells me it's as good as sex, and I haven't had that in so long that
> I'm really looking forward to this thing arriving.
>

Please don't use it for sex. (DAMHIK). :-)

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

"woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> > "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > message news:[email protected]
> > > Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this,
> > > so that after it arrives I can talk more about how it
> > > works. I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and
> > > it was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
> > > sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my
> > > sharpener is probably best suited for circular saw
> > > blades, and it's not likely at all that I'm getting
> > > the same quality of job out of it that any standard
> > > sharpening service would provide. But - I did it,
> > > and the blade did cut noticeably better. Only takes
> > > about 20 minutes or so to sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
> > > Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still
> > > smoking up the garage pretty good. The cuts were
> > > very smooth but there was some burning on each cut.
> > > So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
> > > the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
> > > the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site
> > > that Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very
> > > fast - they are located only 1/2 way across NY state
> > > from me. Could possibly be here as early as Tuesday.
> > > I'm looking forward to this thing.
> >
> >
> > Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many
> > teeth and ATB then spend a little more money and buy a
> > 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is meant for ripping.
> > Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud still
> > made them.
> The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
> It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.

True. But it is also true that a lower tooth blade rips better. Especially
a flat ground one.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 2/11/14, 9:13 AM, Leon wrote:
> My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
> make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
> the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.
>

That's what I did on all the bamboo plywood used in our bathroom(s)
remodel last year.
Works great.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:

>
> And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
> plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
> for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
> even on a fresh blade just out of habit.

Fire away Leon, because this project will require cutting plywood. Both
1/4" walnut ply and 1/2" ply (undecided what that ply will be - it's for the
dividers and thus will not be as visible.)

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:

>
> Common techniques to combat this are to use a straight edge and sharp
> marking knife or utility knife to prescore the panel. Also the use
> of a zero clearance insert can be of benefit.

The trick with scoring I was already aware of but I don't think I've ever
done that. So - if you score - do you score right where the center of the
teeth would be, or cut with the teeth on the waste side of the score? I
suspect the latter...

>
> Most better European saws offer a scoring blade that is raised
> slightly above the surface and directly in front of the main blade. This
> scoring blade's only function is to make the cut through the
> bottom side of the panel veneer. Well some might use it for other
> functions but that is what it's intended use is.
>
> My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
> make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
> the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.

This seems to be much more practical.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
news:[email protected]

> Looooooong ago I swapped blades when going from ripping
> to cross cutting.

Me too. It was a real nuisance so i bought another saw :)
________________

> I'm mostly replying here to reassure Mike that, if his
> saw is set up properly, he is going to be very very happy
> with this new blade for most everything that he is going
> to cut on his TS for a very long time.

I too am certain he will.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
> it, you might do more harm.

It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)

I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier for
the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put most of
the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much easier
to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding and
the final coat on the finished project.

If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with tear-out
and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/11/14, 1:35 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/11/2014 1:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
>>> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
>>> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
>>> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
>>> it, you might do more harm.
>>
>> It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)
>>
>> I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier for
>> the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
>> prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put most of
>> the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
>> sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much easier
>> to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding and
>> the final coat on the finished project.
>>
>> If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
>> have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with tear-out
>> and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.
>>
>>
> it also wears out the cutter quicker. Sanding sealer probably less than
> a poly.

Do you have a source for this information?
I find it hard to believe that any difference would be noticeable at
all, if true.


> But I agree, pre-finishing would be easier on large ply
> panels... . Tough to match up face frames though. Much easier when you
> are working from the same mix, not further down in the can..
>

I don't know anyone who makes their face frames out of plywood. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/11/14, 3:24 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/11/2014 3:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/11/14, 1:35 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 2/11/2014 1:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
>>>>> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
>>>>> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
>>>>> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
>>>>> it, you might do more harm.
>>>>
>>>> It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)
>>>>
>>>> I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier for
>>>> the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
>>>> prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put
>>>> most of
>>>> the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
>>>> sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much
>>>> easier
>>>> to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding and
>>>> the final coat on the finished project.
>>>>
>>>> If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
>>>> have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with
>>>> tear-out
>>>> and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> it also wears out the cutter quicker. Sanding sealer probably less than
>>> a poly.
>>
>> Do you have a source for this information?
>> I find it hard to believe that any difference would be noticeable at
>> all, if true.
>
>
> Well cutting anything extra takes it's toll. ;~) But I agree, the
> benefit probably by far out weighs the disadvantages.
>
>
>
>>
>>> But I agree, pre-finishing would be easier on large ply
>>> panels... . Tough to match up face frames though. Much easier when you
>>> are working from the same mix, not further down in the can..
>>>
>>
>> I don't know anyone who makes their face frames out of plywood. :-)
>
> Back in the 60's and 70's most new homes built-in cabinets had plywood
> face frames. Done right the doors and drawer fronts were made from the
> pieces cut out form the drawer and door openings. Add moldings and
> those blanks became trimmed out doors just a little bigger than the
> openings. There was a lot of plunge cutting going on. Not the best way
> to do things but many many kitchen and bathroom cabinets were built this
> way.
>

You just described my kitchen, unfortunately. :-)
I'm quite certain, however, that this is not done today.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 2/12/14, 11:49 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/11/2014 7:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> You just described my kitchen, unfortunately. :-) I'm quite
>> certain, however, that this is not done today.
>
> Probably regional, but around here 95% of the cabinets in 'builder
> built' spec/custom homes (excluding most large scale, National, tract
> home builders who use prefab boxes) are still 'built-in place', but
> not in the same manner as the old days, when union carpenters were
> still aplenty.
>
> Nailed together, solid wood faceframes, plywood side panels and
> floors, backless, and attached straight to the drywall, is prevalent
> today.
>
> (in the good old days, the wall behind the cabinets was often tongue
> and groove lumber, or 3/4" plywood -- and in some cases where the
> room was paneled, paneling.)
>
> Done properly and by a skilled cabinetmaker, particularly in old
> construction and in restoration work, still a good way to maximize
> space and get a custom fit.
>
> Unfortunately, today it is rarely done properly, even in million
> dollar homes in many areas ... mostly due to a lack of unskilled,
> unsupervised labor, who take every shortcut imaginable because they
> have no cultural basis for pride in their work, or skin in the game.
>
> Add to that the fact that construction lumber nowadays is plantation
> grown, new growth, varying widely in moisture content despite being
> kiln dried, and therefore unstable, structures are subject to
> movement due to dimensional instability in the months/years to come.
> Meaning nothing attached stays square and in place.
>
> I am routinely called upon to fix kitchen and bath cabinet doors,
> drawers, trim, crown, and reattach intermediate stiles, on $1m+ homes
> that are less than ten years old.
>
> And that is just the tip of the iceberg ... it is hard to believe
> some of the framing, electrical and plumbing crap we uncover when
> doing a remodel on homes less than twenty years old these days.
>
> In short, it is almost unbelievable the prevalence of poorly built
> residences in even the high dollar, prestigious neighborhoods in some
> regions these days.
>

The stories are too long and plentiful. If we ever meet in person, I'll
share some of the many experiences I've had fixing those mistakes in the
half-million+ dollar McMansions around here.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

BillinGA wrote:
> Re plywood faceframes- my SIL made cabinets for a relative. They were
> painted with oil base that laid down very well. I was skeptical when
> he told me he was going to make the ff's out of ply. He sanded all
> exposed edges carefully. I don't know how he came up with such void
> free plywood but I was very impressed with the finish...no sign of
> the layers. It looks just like painted mdf or solid wood. It is one
> of those things I would not believe if I had not seen it for myself.
> I still wouldn't do it that way but it worked for him.

Likewise - my dad built our kitchen cupboards out of birch plywood back in
the early 60's. I don't know what he did but you do not see the plys in the
face frames - even now, some 40 years later. I'm sure there was nothing
fancy he did because my dad was not an accomplished woodworker. Whatever he
did was simple and it worked.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:

> OK Mike, lets hear a report on the new blade!

Ok - all I've had a chance to do is to make a few cuts. Been too busy to do
much else. But - I installed it and I ran some of my walnut through it. I
was just shaving off the very least amount to remove the burns from my
previous blade. Absolute beauty! Clean, smooth, and ready for sex. My
previous blade left a smooth cut but it burned pretty good in an 8/4 cut.
Can't compare that at this point.

I really have to wait a bit to get into something that will show off this
blade to it's fulest potential. Though I will say this much - having run
the styles through a planer to true the faces, and having run one piece over
a jonter, this blade is producing as clean and glue-able ede as the planer
did..

I have to wait to find the real tetst and run something of conesequence
through it I have to admit that I'm anxious to see the result of that.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 2/10/2014 10:14 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> message news:[email protected]
>>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so
>>> that after it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>>>
>>> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it
>>> was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
>>> sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my sharpener is
>>> probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's
>>> not likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of
>>> job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
>>> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut
>>> noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to
>>> sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up
>>> the garage pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but
>>> there was some burning on each cut.
>>> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
>>> the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
>>> the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site that
>>> Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
>>> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could
>>> possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
>>> forward to this thing.
>>
>>
>> Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many teeth and ATB
>> then
>> spend a little more money and buy a 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is
>> meant for ripping. Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud
>> still made
>> them.
>>
>>
> The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
> It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.
>
> If you look all the WW blades are ATB, even their rip blades. Only their
> miter saw blade has flat teeth.
>
>
>



Actually the WW10401125 blade is a flat grind, 40 tooth WW2 1/8" kerf
It is one of 6 special grind WW2 Customized blades that Forrest offers.

At the bottom of the page.

http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm

On 2/12/2014 2:33 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> BillinGA wrote:
>> Re plywood faceframes- my SIL made cabinets for a relative. They were
>> painted with oil base that laid down very well. I was skeptical when
>> he told me he was going to make the ff's out of ply. He sanded all
>> exposed edges carefully. I don't know how he came up with such void
>> free plywood but I was very impressed with the finish...no sign of
>> the layers. It looks just like painted mdf or solid wood. It is one
>> of those things I would not believe if I had not seen it for myself.
>> I still wouldn't do it that way but it worked for him.
>
> Likewise - my dad built our kitchen cupboards out of birch plywood back in
> the early 60's. I don't know what he did but you do not see the plys in the
> face frames - even now, some 40 years later. I'm sure there was nothing
> fancy he did because my dad was not an accomplished woodworker. Whatever he
> did was simple and it worked.
>

One of the simple ways to hide the edges for the plywood face frames was
to stop the side ends of the face frame, normally the stile, even with
the inner side of the side of the cabinet. The side of the cabinet
stopped even with the back of the face frame.


So if you are picturing this correctly the corner of the cabinet where
the face frame and side of the cabinet meet forms a 3/4" x 3/4" void at
the out side front end corner. That was filled with a piece of plywood
that was a right triangle that fit into that square void. The corners
of the cabinet appeared to be 45'ed.

On 2/11/2014 1:53 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/11/14, 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>> One other method that I used to use was lay a strip of masking tape
>> down over the line to be cut. The tapes helps to hold the wood,
>> that might splinter, in place. The problem I had was removing the
>> tape, unless you were very careful with the direction that you pull
>> it, you might do more harm.
>
> It only takes one time to learn the lesson on that! :-)
>
> I worked with some pre-finished birch plywood from a local supplier for
> the first time on a recent project. I was amazed at how the finish
> prevented most tear-out. Ever since then, I have started to put most of
> the layers of finish on plywood before cutting (or right after rough
> sizing). Not only does it cut down on tear-out, but it's so much easier
> to finish those larger sheets. Then you're left with minor sanding and
> the final coat on the finished project.
>
> If you don't want to go into too many finish steps on the plywood, I
> have found that even a coat or two of sanding sealer helps with tear-out
> and also makes the sheets slide across the table more smoothly.
>
>
it also wears out the cutter quicker. Sanding sealer probably less than
a poly. But I agree, pre-finishing would be easier on large ply
panels... . Tough to match up face frames though. Much easier when you
are working from the same mix, not further down in the can..

--
Jeff

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:13:17 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>My trick is to raise my blade about 1/8" above the table surface and
>make my cut. I then raise the blade to make the complete cut and pass
>the work through again. I only do this when cross cutting plywood.

So, essentially you're jury rigging your own scoring blade. Simple but
effective trick. That's a good idea. I'll have to give it a try.
Thanks.

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:14:30 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On 2/10/2014 10:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> message news:[email protected]
>>> Ok - I just gotta get the conversation going on this, so
>>> that after it arrives I can talk more about how it works.
>>>
>>> I was ripping a slab of 8/4 walnut Saturday night and it
>>> was going so-so. Took my blade out and put it in my
>>> sharpener and touched it up. To be fair, my sharpener is
>>> probably best suited for circular saw blades, and it's
>>> not likely at all that I'm getting the same quality of
>>> job out of it that any standard sharpening service would
>>> provide. But - I did it, and the blade did cut
>>> noticeably better. Only takes about 20 minutes or so to
>>> sharpen a 60 tooth blade.
>>> Still - it's the wrong blade, and it was still smoking up
>>> the garage pretty good. The cuts were very smooth but
>>> there was some burning on each cut.
>>> So - after threatening for god-knows-how-long to smash
>>> the piggy bank and buy a Woodworker II, I finally took
>>> the plunge. Ordered it Saturday night from a site that
>>> Leon pointed me to. Shipping should be very fast - they
>>> are located only 1/2 way across NY state from me. Could
>>> possibly be here as early as Tuesday. I'm looking
>>> forward to this thing.
>>
>>
>> Which Woodworker ll? The 30 tooth one I hope. If many teeth and ATB then
>> spend a little more money and buy a 20-30 tooth flat grind blade that is
>> meant for ripping. Not easy to find but last time I looked Freud still made
>> them.
>>
>>
>The 40 tooth one is the best overall blade.
>It does crosscutting and ply better than the 30 would.
>
>If you look all the WW blades are ATB, even their rip blades. Only their
>miter saw blade has flat teeth.

They also have a flat (#1) grind for box joints, and such.

On 2/11/2014 12:43 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
>> Looooooong ago I swapped blades when going from ripping
>> to cross cutting.
>
> Me too. It was a real nuisance so i bought another saw :)
> ________________
>
>> I'm mostly replying here to reassure Mike that, if his
>> saw is set up properly, he is going to be very very happy
>> with this new blade for most everything that he is going
>> to cut on his TS for a very long time.
>
> I too am certain he will.
>


LOL, Now that would mane sense with a rip on one!

On 2/11/2014 9:42 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> And Mike I can give you some tips for getting good cross cuts in
>> plywood even when the new blade has some miles on it and may be due
>> for a resharpening some years down the road. I use these techniques
>> even on a fresh blade just out of habit.
>>
>
> Do we have to tune in next week, Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel?
>
> Puckdropper
>
Yes... holly shit batman it's cold out there.

--
Jeff