Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
have just isn't big enough.
I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
wait.
Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
that I will have to cut myself regardless.
Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
And this is why Stanley, and others, used to make hand saw miter boxes
with backsaws that had blades 30" long x 6" deep. Not many still
around, and a decade or so ago when they could still be found, they
were commanding very high prices...I seem to recall seeing one at
around $350.
To get the same capacity, you need to go to a sliding compound miter
saw with a 12" blade, if you insist on power. If you're used to using
a handsaw, it's fairly easy to do freehand if you mark carefully and
follow the marks. With the big Stanley, it's as easy as it gets.
No operation with a hand saw is easy on pressure-treated lumber.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Mar 17, 10:13?am, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:25:19 -0400, "Locutus"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>snip
follow the marks. With the big Stanley, it's as easy as it gets. With
an SCMS it is even easier, but you're looking at about $600 for the
saw, and the blade that comes with it has a 50-50 chance of being
aimed at the construction market, so you can earmark anywhere from $90
to $150 for a new blade. In truth, I think I'd pop for a decent
handsaw at maybe $45.
Or a $14 Disston handsaw from Ebay, sharpened by Circle Saw (less than $10,
I think $4), and then stone the side of the teeth to even the set, and
you'll have a saw that is sharp and will stay in it's kerf. Sometimes a
commercial sharpening will leave filings on the edges that need to be stoned
off. It takes 2 or 3 minutes to do that.
I have a 1950's Craftsman saw, 10 tpi, that is sharpened as a rip saw, that
cuts cross cut or rip, just like Tage Frid said to do. It's the saw I pick
up more than others.
On Mar 16, 9:02 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Circular saw and a speed square or homemade t-square guide.
Father Haskell wrote:
> Circular saw and a speed square or homemade t-square guide.
Finally some sanity. Yeah, I know there ain't no sanity clause.
If the post's in the ground frst cut with a speed square and circular
saw then use that cut as a guide.Just go around the post.Same thing if
it's on the ground just rotate the post.
Easy.
Phil Brown
On Mar 16, 9:02?am, [email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Very easy, just use a circular saw. This one:
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o135/SVLightnin/?action=view¤t=DSCN4664.jpg
On Mar 16, 9:02?am, [email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Easy, just use a circular saw. This one:
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o135/SVLightnin/?action=view¤t=DSCN4664.jpg
On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> > have just isn't big enough.
>
> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> > wait.
>
> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>
> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on the
> cuts. This is sort of silly.
Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> [email protected] wrote:
> >> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> >> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> >> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> >> > have just isn't big enough.
>
> >> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> >> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> >> > wait.
>
> >> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> >> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> >> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>
> >> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on the
> >> cuts. This is sort of silly.
>
> > Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
> > sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>
> The OP never said anything about post tops...
Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
of
concrete square?
On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
shelf
handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
but leave a rougher kerf.
--
FF
On Mar 17, 11:08 pm, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> > > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> > > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> > > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> > > have just isn't big enough.
>
> > > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> > > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> > > wait.
>
> > > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> > > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> > > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>
> > Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
> > circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
> > uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
>
> > If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
> > saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
> > and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
> > shelf
> > handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
> > that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
> > but leave a rougher kerf.
>
> You could also design and build a 16" radial arm saw. Maybe a guillotine
> with a 50 pound blade and a hundred foot drop. How about a large lathe,
> steady rest and a part off tool? There is all kinds of ways to
> overcomplicate this if you think about it long enough.
It is hard to get simpler than a handsaw.
--
FF
On Mar 17, 10:13=EF=BF=BDam, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:25:19 -0400, "Locutus"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >>>news:[email protected]...
>
> >>> > On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> >> [email protected] wrote:
> >>> >> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> >>> >> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cu=
ts
> >>> >> > to
> >>> >> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter=
saw
> >>> >> > I
> >>> >> > have just isn't big enough.
>
> >>> >> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don'=
t do
> >>> >> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want=
to
> >>> >> > wait.
>
> >>> >> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
> >>> >> > 4x4
> >>> >> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> >>> >> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestion=
s?
>
> >>> >> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on
> >>> >> the
> >>> >> cuts. =A0This is sort of silly.
>
> >>> > Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. =A0Chamfere=
d or
> >>> > sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>
> >>> The OP never said anything about post tops...
>
> >> Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
> >> of
> >> concrete square?
>
> >LOL, the OP just stated he wanted to know how to cut a 4x4 post!!! Unles=
s I
> >missed a post somewhere, he didn't specify if it were in the ground.
> >Considering he said he has Home Depot cut them for him, I don't imagine =
they
> >are. :)
>
> It's for a bed post, sorry if I led anyone astray. Although I'm
> learning a lot about other techniques even if not for my application.- Hi=
de quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
And this is why Stanley, and others, used to make hand saw miter boxes
with backsaws that had blades 30" long x 6" deep. Not many still
around, and a decade or so ago when they could still be found, they
were commanding very high prices...I seem to recall seeing one at
around $350.
To get the same capacity, you need to go to a sliding compound miter
saw with a 12" blade, if you insist on power. If you're used to using
a handsaw, it's fairly easy to do freehand if you mark carefully and
follow the marks. With the big Stanley, it's as easy as it gets. With
an SCMS it is even easier, but you're looking at about $600 for the
saw, and the blade that comes with it has a 50-50 chance of being
aimed at the construction market, so you can earmark anywhere from $90
to $150 for a new blade. In truth, I think I'd pop for a decent
handsaw at maybe $45.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
I have a 10" Craftsman miter saw, and it cut's a 4x4 without any issues,
what size miter saw do you have?
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
>> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
>> > have just isn't big enough.
>>
>> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>> > wait.
>>
>> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
>> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>>
>> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>>
>> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on the
>> cuts. This is sort of silly.
>
> Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
> sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>
The OP never said anything about post tops...
"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> [email protected] wrote:
>> >> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>> >> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
>> >> > to
>> >> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw
>> >> > I
>> >> > have just isn't big enough.
>>
>> >> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>> >> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>> >> > wait.
>>
>> >> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
>> >> > 4x4
>> >> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>>
>> >> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>>
>> >> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on
>> >> the
>> >> cuts. This is sort of silly.
>>
>> > Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
>> > sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>>
>> The OP never said anything about post tops...
>
> Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
> of
> concrete square?
>
LOL, the OP just stated he wanted to know how to cut a 4x4 post!!! Unless I
missed a post somewhere, he didn't specify if it were in the ground.
Considering he said he has Home Depot cut them for him, I don't imagine they
are. :)
"Limey Lurker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
> bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>
Are you Tony Blair???
CW wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> CW wrote:
>>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>>>>> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
>>>>> to line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter
>>>>> saw I have just isn't big enough.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>>>>> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>>>>> wait.
>>>>>
>>>>> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
>>>>> 4x4 that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>>>>>
>>>>> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>>>> Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
>>>> circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
>>>> uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
>>>>
>>>> If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
>>>> saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
>>>> and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
>>>> shelf
>>>> handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
>>>> that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
>>>> but leave a rougher kerf.
>>>>
>>> You could also design and build a 16" radial arm saw. Maybe a
>>> guillotine with a 50 pound blade and a hundred foot drop. How about a
>>> large lathe, steady rest and a part off tool? There is all kinds of
>>> ways to overcomplicate this if you think about it long enough.
>> Using a sharp handsaw isn't "overcomplicating"--it used to be that
>> sharpening one's saw was just part of daily life--my father sharpened
>> his saws regularly and he wasn't even a carpenter by trade, he was a
>> sailor. The trouble is that modern Western-pattern saws are either very
>> expensive or not very good and finding an old Disston in decent shape
>> may be difficult. A 40 buck ryoba with a throw-away blade works
>> remarkably well and is readily accessible.
>>
> Odd, J Clark actually catching the point. Got to say though, I have a modern
> Stanley handsaw and can do pretty good work with it. For cutting the 4x4
> though, it wouldn't be my first choice. Circular saw and speed square would
> be it.
>
>
I'd use a 'camp' saw (small bow saw). Th blade is long enough (and
straight) to get a good line up on the cutting line.
The OP could take some off each end and use the best end up.
Bill (who has other ways to cut a 4by that apparently the OP does not.)
--
I am disillusioned enough to know that no man's opinion on any subject
is worth (much) unless backed up with enough genuine information to make
him really know what he's talking about.
H. P. Lovecraft
http://nmwoodworks.com
---
avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean.
Virus Database (VPS): 000724-1, 03/16/2007
Tested on: 3/18/2007 10:04:20 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
snip
I'm sure you've had every suggestion under the sun by now, but the way I do
it is make one pass with circular saw guided by a speed square and finish
the cut with a handsaw.
Also, I might very well do it with a 10 tpi Disston crosscut handsaw. I put
the post on a bench that is about 14" high. I stand over the post and let
natural body mechanics guide the saw. My saw has good balanced set in the
teeth and will stay in it's kerf if allowed to.
Thanks, for the suggestions guys. You gave me a few options to try. I
think the saddle idea might be the best for my application.
By the way I'm GenX so forgive my ignorance when I ask: what's a
handsaw? ;)
I think saddle and handsaw together might work the best. I have a
portable band saw that might do the trick too now that I think about
it.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Take your 4x4, put it on a workbench or sawhorses. Measure off and clamp 2
straightedges to each side at the exact same spots (i.e. parallel to each
other). Use each clamped straightedge to run the circular saw against.
Should get you a pretty close cut both sides.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor, OnlineToolReviews.com
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 110+ woodworking product reviews online!
-----------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- GMC Strike Allnailer
- Ellsworth Bowl Gouge
- Leigh D1600 Dovetail Jig + Isoloc templates
- Dyco Router Table
- Nova Cole Jaws
- PowerTwist Link Belts
=========================
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 08:02:12 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
>line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
>have just isn't big enough.
>
>I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>wait.
>
>Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
>that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
>Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Build a "U" jig and use the circular saw.
On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
>bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
> >bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>
> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
> big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
> resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
> weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
What I do - and I've cut untold amounts of 4x4 lumber this way - I simply
mark all the way around the 4x4 and then cut as deep as the circular saw
will cut, across one face. I line my blade up with the cut line rather than
relying on the guide on the shoe. I flip it over and repeat the process.
There is no reason you can't end up with a very well matched cut this way.
I agree with you that the sawzall is not the best tool for this type of
thing. The only thing you have to be careful of with this technique is to
take your time and cut along the line - don't let the saw wander. It's
really a whole bunch easier than you're making it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Mar 17, 10:13?am, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:25:19 -0400, "Locutus"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >>>news:[email protected]...
>
> >>> > On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> >> [email protected] wrote:
> >>> >> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> >>> >> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the
> >>> >> > cuts
> >>> >> > to
> >>> >> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter
> >>> >> > saw
> >>> >> > I
> >>> >> > have just isn't big enough.
>
> >>> >> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't
> >>> >> > do
> >>> >> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want
> >>> >> > to
> >>> >> > wait.
>
> >>> >> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
> >>> >> > 4x4
> >>> >> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> >>> >> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any
> >>> >> > suggestions?
>
> >>> >> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on
> >>> >> the
> >>> >> cuts. This is sort of silly.
>
> >>> > Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
> >>> > sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>
> >>> The OP never said anything about post tops...
>
> >> Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
> >> of
> >> concrete square?
>
> >LOL, the OP just stated he wanted to know how to cut a 4x4 post!!! Unless
> >I
> >missed a post somewhere, he didn't specify if it were in the ground.
> >Considering he said he has Home Depot cut them for him, I don't imagine
> >they
> >are. :)
>
> It's for a bed post, sorry if I led anyone astray. Although I'm
> learning a lot about other techniques even if not for my application.-
> Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Or buy a Festool Jig Saw. Great capacity and a very square cut.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Hmm, moving it out away from the fence is a thought. I'll give that
> option a try as well.
Just to reiterate because of a safety issue ... be sure to use, as John
suggested, an auxiliary fence if you do. The piece being cut needs to be
against a "fence" during the cut, even it is just a board between the saw
fence and the workpiece.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
"Markem" wrote in message .
> On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 08:02:12 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
> A good, sharp old fashion crosscut **GASP** handsaw.
Do you and live in a state with no DST, or did you just not set your system
clocks?
Just curious ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
Actually, you can take that idea a bit farther.
Make a "saddle" from 3/4" stock that fits pretty
snug over the post. Using the top edge of the saddle
as a straight edge, cut the post with a cirular saw.
The accuracy of the saddle will determine the accuracy
of the cut.
A basic handsaw might be in order here.
HappyGilmore wrote:
> Take your 4x4, put it on a workbench or sawhorses. Measure off and clamp 2
> straightedges to each side at the exact same spots (i.e. parallel to each
> other). Use each clamped straightedge to run the circular saw against.
> Should get you a pretty close cut both sides.
>
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
What level of precision are you shooting for?
jc
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
All power tools have limitations and, if you're going to "work wood", the
sooner you run into that wall the better.
So do what your forefathers did ... use a hand saw.
Either to finish your circular saw cut, or by wrapping a line on the top and
edge next to you and taking your time and following it, using a clamped on
block of wood as a guide if necessary.
If you don't have a good crosscut saw, now's the time to get one.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/20/07
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
>>bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>
> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
> big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
> resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
> weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
...putting the focus back on the 4X4 issue... You can probably do this on
the miter saw by making a cut and then rotate the 4X4, line the blade up in
the kerf from the first cut and make a second cut.
John
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> >>> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> >>> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
> >>> to line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter
> >>> saw I have just isn't big enough.
> >>>
> >>> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> >>> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> >>> wait.
> >>>
> >>> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
> >>> 4x4 that I will have to cut myself regardless.
> >>>
> >>> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
> >>
> >> Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
> >> circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
> >> uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
> >>
> >> If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
> >> saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
> >> and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
> >> shelf
> >> handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
> >> that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
> >> but leave a rougher kerf.
> >>
> > You could also design and build a 16" radial arm saw. Maybe a
> > guillotine with a 50 pound blade and a hundred foot drop. How about a
> > large lathe, steady rest and a part off tool? There is all kinds of
> > ways to overcomplicate this if you think about it long enough.
>
> Using a sharp handsaw isn't "overcomplicating"--it used to be that
> sharpening one's saw was just part of daily life--my father sharpened
> his saws regularly and he wasn't even a carpenter by trade, he was a
> sailor. The trouble is that modern Western-pattern saws are either very
> expensive or not very good and finding an old Disston in decent shape
> may be difficult. A 40 buck ryoba with a throw-away blade works
> remarkably well and is readily accessible.
>
Odd, J Clark actually catching the point. Got to say though, I have a modern
Stanley handsaw and can do pretty good work with it. For cutting the 4x4
though, it wouldn't be my first choice. Circular saw and speed square would
be it.
> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
> big enough.
What size miter saw do you have? My low end Delta 10" will easily cut
through a 4x4.
In any case, I'll second what another poster mentioned. Cut as far as you
can with the miter saw, then flip it over, line it up, and complete the
cut. I've used that approach to cut through 4x6's, 2x12's, and other larger
boards.
Worst case, use a square to draw a line all the way around the post. Then
use a fine tooth hand saw to cut through. If you take your time and keep
the saw aligned with the line, you should end up with a nice square cut.
Afterall, they cut big timbers like that for generations before power tools
were invented.
> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet.
I would think that would depend on the length of the 4x4 and how much you
need to cut off the end. A long post would probably be hard to guide
through the saw without angling it one way or the other.
Anthony
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 19:15:19 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
snip
John,
Hmm, moving it out away from the fence is a thought. I'll give that
option a try as well.
From one of my other posts: these are for a bed frame not outdoor
posts.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 13:30:26 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
>>>>bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>>>
>>> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
>>> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
>>> big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
>>> resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
>>> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
>>> weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
>>
>>...putting the focus back on the 4X4 issue... You can probably do this on
>>the miter saw by making a cut and then rotate the 4X4, line the blade up
>>in
>>the kerf from the first cut and make a second cut.
>>
>>John
>>
>
> John,
>
> I'll have to double check, but I think the reason not being able to do
> it on the miter saw(this is from memory as the miter saw is at my
> father's) is that the 4x4 comes in contact with the blade before it
> even gets all the way back, ie there isn't enough room to slide the
> 4x4 under the blade. It's a smallish miter saw. But I'll double check.
>
> I have 4 of these to do and I have to lop off 1 foot on each. So I'll
> have plenty of options to experiment.
Is it a 7 1/4" or 8" blade rather than a 10-12"? If so, would putting an
auxiliary fence on the saw--to effectively move the fence out further on the
table-- help?
To change the topic a bit... Are these 4X4s going to be used for posts
outside for a fence of some sort? If so, I'd be inclined to cut them off at
an angle that directs water away from the fence, or rails, or whatever is
being attached to them. Doing so would probably complicate your cutting
problem a bit but it's worth consideration.
John
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 09:24:35 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 12:19:08 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>Thanks, for the suggestions guys. You gave me a few options to try. I
>>think the saddle idea might be the best for my application.
>>
>>By the way I'm GenX so forgive my ignorance when I ask: what's a
>>handsaw? ;)
>>
>>I think saddle and handsaw together might work the best. I have a
>>portable band saw that might do the trick too now that I think about
>>it.
>
>And a couple more facts for the lurkers and trolls. It isn't like I've
>sat in my garage and tried this a couple hundred times and am still
>not getting it. I've done it once or twice and have had HD do it ever
>since, I was simply wondering if there was a technique for it. Given
>the amount of replies and different techniques this topic has spurred
>I would hardly deem it as trite and effortless.
Generally I use a speed square as a guide for the circular saw, I will
mark the cut on all 4 sides. If it is installed in the ground and you
want to level cut a guide you can clamp to the post instead of the
speed square. Let the saw do the work feed it gently into the cut. A
good hand saw could finish the cut, it will never be perfect though
covering the top of the post though hides a lot of sins. If you bury
the cut in the ground a treating the cut with preservative is probably
best practice. I also do not set posts in concrete but rather in stone
packed around it, if it was a hinge side of a gate then I might set it
in concrete.
Better?
Mark
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 12:19:08 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>Thanks, for the suggestions guys. You gave me a few options to try. I
>think the saddle idea might be the best for my application.
>
>By the way I'm GenX so forgive my ignorance when I ask: what's a
>handsaw? ;)
>
>I think saddle and handsaw together might work the best. I have a
>portable band saw that might do the trick too now that I think about
>it.
And a couple more facts for the lurkers and trolls. It isn't like I've
sat in my garage and tried this a couple hundred times and am still
not getting it. I've done it once or twice and have had HD do it ever
since, I was simply wondering if there was a technique for it. Given
the amount of replies and different techniques this topic has spurred
I would hardly deem it as trite and effortless.
[email protected] wrote:
> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
>> bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>
> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
> big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
> resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
> weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
If you've got a work support or helper to hold up the other end, the
band saw would be the easy way to do it.
Or get yourself a Japanese ryoba saw (that's ryob_a_ with an "a", a kind
of hand saw, not the electric power tool maker that puts an "i" on the
end) for about 40 bucks and with a little practice you'll be amazed at
how fast and how accurately you're going through them. I wish I'd
discovered Japanese saws 40 years ago.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
CW wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>>> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>>> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
>>> to line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter
>>> saw I have just isn't big enough.
>>>
>>> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>>> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>>> wait.
>>>
>>> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
>>> 4x4 that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>>>
>>> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>>
>> Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
>> circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
>> uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
>>
>> If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
>> saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
>> and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
>> shelf
>> handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
>> that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
>> but leave a rougher kerf.
>>
> You could also design and build a 16" radial arm saw. Maybe a
> guillotine with a 50 pound blade and a hundred foot drop. How about a
> large lathe, steady rest and a part off tool? There is all kinds of
> ways to overcomplicate this if you think about it long enough.
Using a sharp handsaw isn't "overcomplicating"--it used to be that
sharpening one's saw was just part of daily life--my father sharpened
his saws regularly and he wasn't even a carpenter by trade, he was a
sailor. The trouble is that modern Western-pattern saws are either very
expensive or not very good and finding an old Disston in decent shape
may be difficult. A 40 buck ryoba with a throw-away blade works
remarkably well and is readily accessible.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 07:20:20 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Markem" wrote in message .
>> On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 08:02:12 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> A good, sharp old fashion crosscut **GASP** handsaw.
>
>Do you and live in a state with no DST, or did you just not set your system
>clocks?
>
>Just curious ...
Illinois, so yes we have DST, the system is suppose to set itself and
it did. Maybe Agent picks up the originating message time zone???
Ah the sweet mysteries of life.
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 13:30:26 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 16 Mar 2007 14:57:03 -0700, "Limey Lurker"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>So you've got a Sawzall, a circ saw, a mitre saw and a portable
>>>bandsaw, and you still can't cut 4 by 4. Are you George W Bush?
>>
>> Yes I can very easily cut a 4x4. It's getting it square I'm having a
>> problem with. Did you not read the original post? The miter saw isn't
>> big enough. And though not posted the sawzall's blade will flex
>> resulting in an uneven cut, possibley I'm trying to cut too fast. And
>> the bandsaw I hadn't tried yet. But given that your assumptions
>> weren't correct, I'd have to say that it is you that is GWB.
>
>...putting the focus back on the 4X4 issue... You can probably do this on
>the miter saw by making a cut and then rotate the 4X4, line the blade up in
>the kerf from the first cut and make a second cut.
>
>John
>
John,
I'll have to double check, but I think the reason not being able to do
it on the miter saw(this is from memory as the miter saw is at my
father's) is that the 4x4 comes in contact with the blade before it
even gets all the way back, ie there isn't enough room to slide the
4x4 under the blade. It's a smallish miter saw. But I'll double check.
I have 4 of these to do and I have to lop off 1 foot on each. So I'll
have plenty of options to experiment.
[email protected] wrote:
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on the
cuts. This is sort of silly.
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 16:25:10 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 19:15:19 GMT, "John Grossbohlin"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>snip
>
>John,
>
>Hmm, moving it out away from the fence is a thought. I'll give that
>option a try as well.
>
>From one of my other posts: these are for a bed frame not outdoor
>posts.
A good hand saw would be my choice then. With having to cut off a foot
from each one experimenting and practicing cutting off a few inches
till I had my technique down.
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mar 16, 1:02 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> > have just isn't big enough.
> >
> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> > wait.
> >
> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
> >
> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>
> Handsaw, chainsaw, or a Prazi-beam cutter attachment for a
> circular saw. Or you can use the method one of my neighbors
> uses--find a neighbor to do it for you.
>
> If you chose a handsaw try to find an antique Disston crosscut
> saw with maybe 8 points and sharpen it yourself. Joint it first
> and set it after if it needs it, often they do not. Most off-the
> shelf
> handsaws are not really sharp, set too coarse, and with teeth
> that are two fine. A 4 point ripsaw will crosscut quickly too,
> but leave a rougher kerf.
>
You could also design and build a 16" radial arm saw. Maybe a guillotine
with a 50 pound blade and a hundred foot drop. How about a large lathe,
steady rest and a part off tool? There is all kinds of ways to
overcomplicate this if you think about it long enough.
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:25:19 -0400, "Locutus"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> "Father Haskell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> >> [email protected] wrote:
>>> >> > Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>>> >> > uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
>>> >> > to
>>> >> > line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw
>>> >> > I
>>> >> > have just isn't big enough.
>>>
>>> >> > I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>>> >> > precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>>> >> > wait.
>>>
>>> >> > Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
>>> >> > 4x4
>>> >> > that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>>>
>>> >> > Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
>>>
>>> >> Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on
>>> >> the
>>> >> cuts. This is sort of silly.
>>>
>>> > Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. Chamfered or
>>> > sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.
>>>
>>> The OP never said anything about post tops...
>>
>> Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
>> of
>> concrete square?
>>
>
>LOL, the OP just stated he wanted to know how to cut a 4x4 post!!! Unless I
>missed a post somewhere, he didn't specify if it were in the ground.
>Considering he said he has Home Depot cut them for him, I don't imagine they
>are. :)
>
It's for a bed post, sorry if I led anyone astray. Although I'm
learning a lot about other techniques even if not for my application.
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 08:02:12 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
>uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
>line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
>have just isn't big enough.
>
>I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
>precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
>wait.
>
>Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
>that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
>Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
A good, sharp old fashion crosscut **GASP** handsaw.
Mark
http://home.mchsi.com/~xphome/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
> uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts to
> line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw I
> have just isn't big enough.
>
> I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
> precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
> wait.
>
> Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn 4x4
> that I will have to cut myself regardless.
>
> Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?
I hate this cut because it is usually at the top of a fence post and the cut
is above my head. Therefore the saw dust falls all over me.
Use a square to extend the line to 3 surfaces of the post.
Extend the blade on your circle saw to full depth.
Cut along the line all the way across the post. Move to the next side and
line and engage the saw blade into the previous cut and use that cut to help
guide the start of the next cut. Repeat on the 3rd side.