Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely
make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
about for laminations?
Dave
I agree that for the project I was laminating and dadoing, I wouldn't
want sand in the glue. That Freud dado is tres expensive!
Since no one here so far has tried it, when I get a chance I'll glue
some scrap with Titebond and sand, and give a brief report.
Dave
Sam wrote:
> I agree, cutting a dado through nails is not a good idea. I've never
> tried cutting one through glued sand, but I have a feeling that might
> not be a good idea also. Sam
>
Depending on the form of the piece you could:
- Use biscuits
- Make the pieces longer than needed and cut of the slipped ends
later
- Clamp end blocks across the table and drop the pieces in between
them
- Use less glue and let it dry for a few minutes before putting the
pieces together. Probably the best/easiest fix.
I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
anything like that into a joint.
David wrote:
> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
> slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely
> make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
> lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
> piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
> gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
> forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
> Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
> trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
>
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
Good grief! Sand is going to screw up the joint fit and add an abrasive
that will screw up later operations...little stuff, like knocking
sharpness off any cutting tools used after glue-up. By itself, glue
dulls tools. Adding sand...no thanks!
Upscale wrote:
> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > Power tool (except for jointer or planer blades) wouldn't even notice a
> > small brad. Not recommended practice, but something that small shouldn't
> > adversely affect a good tablesaw blade.
>
> Once or twice, I've inadvertently cut through a 4" nail on my tablesaw
> without any problem whatsoever. Never knew until I looked at the freshly cut
> edge and noticed a 3/16" shiny spot of metal glistening back at me. 1HP
> Table saw and carbide tipped blade took it without a hint complaint.
Generally not a problem. Mild steel cuts fairly easily if therre's only
a tiny bit of it. I've never hit a 4" nail--and hope I don't--but brads
and staples, sure, as have most of us.
You don't want to be like a friend of mine who hit a hardened nail,
though. The carbide tips zinging by made him feel like he was back in
'Nam.
David wrote:
>
> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
> slippage?
Never even heard of it....can't imagine how one could have anything w/
enough grit to be effective and get the joint to close, nor if the
pieces are able to move, what would keep the grit from simply moving as
well since it's essentially floating in the glue film...
...
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
I would make every effort to
a. Make the piece such that final milling is done after glue-up,
b. a. being impossible, create a jig to hold the pieces.
[email protected] wrote:
...
>
> sand is as big a no-no for saw blades as nails.
Well, that's stretching it for the subject case...
David wrote:
>
> I have plenty of drill bits but the dowel material on hand was slightly
> smaller than it's marked size and didn't match any standard bits. The
> closest size I could drill a hole was a bit too large for the dowel,
> making alignment more sloppy than I wanted. I'm always in search of a
> fast, fuss-free method to add to my repertoire of ww skills.
...
I think the sand trick isn't it, myself, but guess it never hurts to
"'spearmint"
The best trick I think is the very short, small brad/tack route someone
else has already mentioned.
Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
>
> In article <[email protected]>,
> W. Wells <[email protected]> wrote:
> >You must not know the theory of glue. Glue is a chemical that swaps wood
> >molecules from one piece to the other, thus making the joint the strongest
> >part of the wood.
> >
> Sounds more like quantum theory, not glue theory.
I was thinking more on the line of alchemy... :)
Robatoy wrote:
...
> > Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
> > just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
> > grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
> > prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
> > to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
>
> Sounds logical to me. The clamping pressure will bury the few grains and
> stop the whole mess from sliding around. But you know how it is around
> here..say sand, and they're thinking a whole sandbox..mixing glue with
> sand, making some kind of concoction that Johnny Hart's Wizard would be
> proud of. ONE grain of sand. One grain... coming up:
> http://www.latsi.com/latsipix/wizard-of-id.jpg
Seems to me (again I haven't actually tried it) that if the piece wants
to move since the sand is in the glue film, it would be quite likely it
will simply move along with it first, before it sticks. Guess if there
were a flat starting point you could avoid that, but in that case you
would likely be able to hold it with simply the clamping pressure
anyway.
Just way I thought about it...
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
An alternative method that I use when I've _no_ other choice is to partially
drive two or three small brads an inch or so apart in the middle of the
joint/work-piece, then using a pair of pliers snip 'em off as close to the
surface as possible.
I've found it works well, but I don't recommend it as "common" practice...
although you know where they are and can avoid tooling near 'em, no-one can
predict what or who will happen to 'em after they've left your hands.
I "discovered" this method when trying to replace a stringer and destroyed a
good japanese pull-saw while seperating the joint. I'm lucky it wasn't a
power tool, I guess.
- Andy
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As I wrote that, I thought it sounds like a fussy procedure.
>
Think snug on all clamps, then tight. Even the quick-clamps apply enough
gentle pressure to reduce creep prior to torquing the big boys.
DJM usually tapes things together "to prevent slippage".
Tom
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to all the suggestions and to the good-natured comments. I think
> the quickest/best way to accomplish alignment for the type of piece I was
> assembling (9 lams) would be the "snipped brad" method. Thanks to the
> guys who mentioned that.
>
> Dave
>
> David wrote:
>> Power tool (except for jointer or planer blades) wouldn't even notice
>> a small brad. Not recommended practice, but something that small
>> shouldn't adversely affect a good tablesaw blade.
>
> Once or twice, I've inadvertently cut through a 4" nail on my tablesaw
> without any problem whatsoever. Never knew until I looked at the freshly
> cut edge and noticed a 3/16" shiny spot of metal glistening back at me.
> 1HP Table saw and carbide tipped blade took it without a hint complaint.
I was actually thinking along different lines, but didn't want to be too
verbose. :)
The stringer I was cutting free wasn't accessible to a table saw without
dismantling more than I was prepared to do.
When I was younger (and invulnerable) I used to use a small circ blade in a
4" hand-grinder to do the same job... a tricky task at the best of times.
I'm amazed I still have both hands complete with all ten thumbs. ;]
Thankfully I've learned since then, which is why 'twas the pull-saw that was
defanged.
May it RIP, I was very fond of that particular saw... it was the first
japanese style hand-tool I owned and it changed many of my methods for the
better.
--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Why don't you? Lister I don't know how. --Holly.
>> Thankfully I've learned since then, which is why 'twas the pull-saw
>> that was defanged.
>>
>> May it RIP, I was very fond of that particular saw... it was the first
>
> There is an afterlife to saws as scrapers, specialty knifes,
> whatever-can-be-made-out-of-thin-tool-steel, so when it no longer rips
> it's not yet time for it ti RIP...
Unfortunately, although I joint & set my own saws even then, I had no idea
how to handle the Japanese style so I took it to a local sharpener in the
hope he could resuscitate it. He took one look and pronounced it beyond
recovery, so I simply left it with him. I regret it now, I suspect it was
just as alien to him as it was to me at the time but that's part of the
learning process, neh?
--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Decrease moderator unemployment: Post off-topic messages.
On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 13:45:11 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
>slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely
>make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
>lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
>piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
>gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
>forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
>Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
>trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
>
>When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
>about for laminations?
>
>Dave
sand is as big a no-no for saw blades as nails.
I was expecting that if sand works, I'd sprinkle it in the middle of the
joint away from the edges. I'd only consider it for face gluing where
slippage is such a bear. For gluing up panels, I don't have a slippage
problem--I'm using biscuits and or cauls.
Dave
CW wrote:
> Never tried it myself but have known several people that use it all the
> time. Works great according to them. Wouldn't want to plane the joint
> afterwards though.
>
> "Unquestionably Confused" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:IQ%[email protected]...
>
>>on 6/21/2005 4:31 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following:
>>
>>
>>>I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
>>>anything like that into a joint.
>>
>>Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
>>just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
>>grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
>>prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
>>to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 19:52:10 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>I was expecting that if sand works, I'd sprinkle it in the middle of the
>joint away from the edges. I'd only consider it for face gluing where
>slippage is such a bear. For gluing up panels, I don't have a slippage
>problem--I'm using biscuits and or cauls.
>
>Dave
If you can get sand (and glue for that matter) to only stay in the middle
of the joint, I'd say you have enough control to keep things from slipping.
:-)
>
>CW wrote:
>
>> Never tried it myself but have known several people that use it all the
>> time. Works great according to them. Wouldn't want to plane the joint
>> afterwards though.
>>
>> "Unquestionably Confused" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:IQ%[email protected]...
>>
>>>on 6/21/2005 4:31 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
>>>>anything like that into a joint.
>>>
>>>Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
>>>just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
>>>grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
>>>prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
>>>to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Power tool (except for jointer or planer blades) wouldn't even notice a
> small brad. Not recommended practice, but something that small shouldn't
> adversely affect a good tablesaw blade.
Once or twice, I've inadvertently cut through a 4" nail on my tablesaw
without any problem whatsoever. Never knew until I looked at the freshly cut
edge and noticed a 3/16" shiny spot of metal glistening back at me. 1HP
Table saw and carbide tipped blade took it without a hint complaint.
Why would U want to sprinkle sand into the joint? Sounds ridiculous to me.
What I do is sprinkle saw dust from the type wood I am using into the glue
joint and after it dries sand off and it hides it.
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robatoy wrote:
> ...
> > > Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
> > > just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
> > > grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
> > > prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
> > > to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
> >
> > Sounds logical to me. The clamping pressure will bury the few grains and
> > stop the whole mess from sliding around. But you know how it is around
> > here..say sand, and they're thinking a whole sandbox..mixing glue with
> > sand, making some kind of concoction that Johnny Hart's Wizard would be
> > proud of. ONE grain of sand. One grain... coming up:
> > http://www.latsi.com/latsipix/wizard-of-id.jpg
>
> Seems to me (again I haven't actually tried it) that if the piece wants
> to move since the sand is in the glue film, it would be quite likely it
> will simply move along with it first, before it sticks. Guess if there
> were a flat starting point you could avoid that, but in that case you
> would likely be able to hold it with simply the clamping pressure
> anyway.
>
> Just way I thought about it...
on 6/21/2005 4:31 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following:
> I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
> anything like that into a joint.
Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
You must not know the theory of glue. Glue is a chemical that swaps wood
molecules from one piece to the other, thus making the joint the strongest
part of the wood. The sand would only prevent the change. "David"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce slippage?
> If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely make a
> difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
> lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
> piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
> gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
> forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
> Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
> trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
>
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
>
> Dave
I can see you mis-understood the issue! We are talking about face
gluing (esp for lams) to prevent slippage. NOT for putting sand that
would run all over the edges
Dave
Dave wrote:
> Why would U want to sprinkle sand into the joint? Sounds ridiculous to me.
> What I do is sprinkle saw dust from the type wood I am using into the glue
> joint and after it dries sand off and it hides it.
>
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Robatoy wrote:
>>...
>>
>>>>Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
>>>>just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
>>>>grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
>>>>prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
>>>>to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
>>>
>>>Sounds logical to me. The clamping pressure will bury the few grains and
>>>stop the whole mess from sliding around. But you know how it is around
>>>here..say sand, and they're thinking a whole sandbox..mixing glue with
>>>sand, making some kind of concoction that Johnny Hart's Wizard would be
>>>proud of. ONE grain of sand. One grain... coming up:
>>>http://www.latsi.com/latsipix/wizard-of-id.jpg
>>
>>Seems to me (again I haven't actually tried it) that if the piece wants
>>to move since the sand is in the glue film, it would be quite likely it
>>will simply move along with it first, before it sticks. Guess if there
>>were a flat starting point you could avoid that, but in that case you
>>would likely be able to hold it with simply the clamping pressure
>>anyway.
>>
>>Just way I thought about it...
>
>
>
On Tue 21 Jun 2005 03:45:11p, David <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
> slippage?
I've read that someplace, and I heard somebody talk about it in a video or
a TV show a long time ago, but they laughed after they said it. I thought
it was joke, like telling the guy in the leaky rowboat to drill a few holes
in the bottom so the water could run out.
Dan
On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 16:38:48 +1000, "Andy McArdle"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
>> about for laminations?
>
>An alternative method that I use when I've _no_ other choice is to partially
>drive two or three small brads an inch or so apart in the middle of the
>joint/work-piece, then using a pair of pliers snip 'em off as close to the
>surface as possible.
>
>I've found it works well, but I don't recommend it as "common" practice...
>although you know where they are and can avoid tooling near 'em, no-one can
>predict what or who will happen to 'em after they've left your hands.
>
>I "discovered" this method when trying to replace a stringer and destroyed a
>good japanese pull-saw while seperating the joint. I'm lucky it wasn't a
>power tool, I guess.
>
>- Andy
>
Power tool (except for jointer or planer blades) wouldn't even notice a
small brad. Not recommended practice, but something that small shouldn't
adversely affect a good tablesaw blade.
>
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
David wrote:
> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
> slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely
> make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
> lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
> piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
> gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
> forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
> Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
> trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
>
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
>
> Dave
What didn't you like about drilling for dowels? I do this for headplates and
the underlying thin veneers
on classical guitar heads - it's pretty standard.
JK
--
James T. Kirby
Center for Applied Coastal Research
University of Delaware
Newark, DE 19716
phone: 302-831-2438
fax: 302-831-1228
email: [email protected]
http://chinacat.coastal.udel.edu/~kirby
In article <IQ%[email protected]>,
Unquestionably Confused <[email protected]> wrote:
> on 6/21/2005 4:31 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following:
>
> > I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
> > anything like that into a joint.
>
> Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
> just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
> grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
> prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
> to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
Sounds logical to me. The clamping pressure will bury the few grains and
stop the whole mess from sliding around. But you know how it is around
here..say sand, and they're thinking a whole sandbox..mixing glue with
sand, making some kind of concoction that Johnny Hart's Wizard would be
proud of. ONE grain of sand. One grain... coming up:
http://www.latsi.com/latsipix/wizard-of-id.jpg
Never tried it myself but have known several people that use it all the
time. Works great according to them. Wouldn't want to plane the joint
afterwards though.
"Unquestionably Confused" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:IQ%[email protected]...
> on 6/21/2005 4:31 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following:
>
> > I've never heard of using sand. Can't imagine I'd want to introduce
> > anything like that into a joint.
>
> Read it here on the rec recently. I believe the trick is to sprinkle
> just a few grains into the joint. Once the joint closes up those few
> grain puncture the otherwise smooth surface of the glue joint and
> prevent movement as the pressure is applied. The plan sounded logical
> to me when I read it here but will admit that I've not yet tried it.
>
>
>
I have plenty of drill bits but the dowel material on hand was slightly
smaller than it's marked size and didn't match any standard bits. The
closest size I could drill a hole was a bit too large for the dowel,
making alignment more sloppy than I wanted. I'm always in search of a
fast, fuss-free method to add to my repertoire of ww skills.
James T. Kirby wrote:
> David wrote:
>
>> Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
>> slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it
>> barely make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9
>> pieces of a lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next
>> time, I took each piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The
>> first lamination was gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish
>> nailer every 3 pieces, forgetting that I'd be running the completed
>> lamination through a dado. Besides which, with the glue causing
>> slippage, each time I squeezed the trigger, the pieces would move
>> slightly. Not a good method.
>>
>> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task?
>> How about for laminations?
>>
>> Dave
>
>
> What didn't you like about drilling for dowels? I do this for
> headplates and the underlying thin veneers
> on classical guitar heads - it's pretty standard.
>
> JK
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
W. Wells <[email protected]> wrote:
>You must not know the theory of glue. Glue is a chemical that swaps wood
>molecules from one piece to the other, thus making the joint the strongest
>part of the wood.
>
Sounds more like quantum theory, not glue theory.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
As I wrote that, I thought it sounds like a fussy procedure.
Dave
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 19:52:10 -0700, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I was expecting that if sand works, I'd sprinkle it in the middle of the
>>joint away from the edges. I'd only consider it for face gluing where
>>slippage is such a bear. For gluing up panels, I don't have a slippage
>>problem--I'm using biscuits and or cauls.
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> If you can get sand (and glue for that matter) to only stay in the middle
> of the joint, I'd say you have enough control to keep things from slipping.
> :-)
>
In article <[email protected]>,
David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
>slippage? If you do, is it effective enough for you, or does it barely
>make a difference? I had such a hard time when gluing up 9 pieces of a
>lamination, I ended up doing the piece over. The next time, I took each
>piece to the DP and drilled holes for dowels. The first lamination was
>gonna get milled and stupid me had used a finish nailer every 3 pieces,
>forgetting that I'd be running the completed lamination through a dado.
>Besides which, with the glue causing slippage, each time I squeezed the
>trigger, the pieces would move slightly. Not a good method.
>
>When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
>about for laminations?
>
>Dave
I've never tried it, but I have read of sprinkling a small bit of sharp
sand onto a surface that has been coated with glue before the mating
surface is brought into contact, to help prevent shifting of the 2
pieces. I've never seen anything about actually adding sand to the
glue itself. i
One thing I have done a few times, is to put a few short brads
between the pieces, then snip the heads off before clamping. If there
weill be any more cutting operations after gluing you need to watch
the brad placement of course.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
I can't remember where I read it, but it was a serious piece. Haven't
been able to find a ref on line to the practice. If it isn't a common
practice, I doubt I should waste my time doing a test with it (I stated
yesterday I'd test it out).
Dave
Dan wrote:
> On Tue 21 Jun 2005 03:45:11p, David <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>Does anyone here use the trick of adding sand to glue to reduce
>>slippage?
>
>
> I've read that someplace, and I heard somebody talk about it in a video or
> a TV show a long time ago, but they laughed after they said it. I thought
> it was joke, like telling the guy in the leaky rowboat to drill a few holes
> in the bottom so the water could run out.
>
> Dan
Larry, I think the snipped brad idea is the quickest method for securing
a number of laminations. I should have done that instead of drilling
holes that really didn't fit the dowel I had on hand. Plus it would be
much quicker to implement.
Dave
Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
Snip
> One thing I have done a few times, is to put a few short brads
> between the pieces, then snip the heads off before clamping. If there
> weill be any more cutting operations after gluing you need to watch
> the brad placement of course.
>
>
I agree; please see my response to Sam.
[email protected] wrote:
>>Dave
>
>
>
> sand is as big a no-no for saw blades as nails.
"Andy McArdle" <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Thankfully I've learned since then, which is why 'twas the pull-saw that was
> defanged.
>
> May it RIP, I was very fond of that particular saw... it was the first
There is an afterlife to saws as scrapers, specialty knifes,
whatever-can-be-made-out-of-thin-tool-steel, so when it no longer rips
it's not yet time for it ti RIP...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Try salt - a tip I found in the "Glue Book" that seems to work great.
Craig
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> When a glue-up must not slip is sand not completely up to the task? How
> about for laminations?
>
> Dave
David wrote:
<snip a sad tale of glue slippage>
Do the glue up with say a max of three (3) laminations.
When cured, laminate a max of 3 laminations together which provides a
total of 9 layers.
Use epoxy and let cure at least 48-72 hours in the clamps.
Been there, done that.
BTW, forget sand in the glue, does nothing but make a sandy, weak, joint.
Lew